sharbatgula Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 (edited) P.S. The bulge that I measured is evident in this review, too: http://www.hi-fiworld.co.uk/loudspeakers/65-reviews/130-baw-685.html Edited November 17, 2014 by sharbatgula Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Briz Vegas Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 This was about biwiring and now its about 685 speakers and equalisation. - try biwiring, then try shotgun with positive to bass and negative to treble, and some decent jumper wire. Pick which you prefer. I went the latter. - regarding the 685s, a 6 db bump should be noticable, assuming your hearing ( ears ) or your room doesnt have a 6 db suck out. I have 705s and they are not perfect either. If you can fix colouration with eq then go for it . Also, B&Ws like power. Try something with double the power. Mind you, my 804s sound just fine as surrounds powered by a Japanese Denon 4310. Stereo is different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olderas Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Whether the Mid/tweater are connected to the bass driver at the speaker or at the amplifier....they are electrically connected and any back EMF will still affect the other driver. Bi amping, however is a completely different thing. Or that's how I see it:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shmockolovitch Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 This is an interesting thread for this n00b. I just bought a pair of B&W 685 S2 and my Yamahaha X777 amp allows for bi-amping or bi-wiring of whatever it is referred too..I am thinking of trying this bi-amping out and see if it improves the soundtrack and detail... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve100 Posted June 18, 2016 Share Posted June 18, 2016 Have been playing around on this today. As background I have two Classe CAM-600 mono blocks driving B&W 802D2, with a high end LP12 as source. Tried Chord Oddessy bi-wired with 2 cables, vs Chord Signature single wire. Signature is a much better cable, but the bi-wiring delivers a richer & fuller experience. My wife said that she felt the single wire sounded hollower as well. So bi-wiring for me with my system. Cheers, Steve 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhythm Willie Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 I triwire my Vaf I93's, but have two mono amps for bass and two mono amps for the mid/tweeters. I use 1m long Vaf manufactured cables, but run 3 gauges, thick for bass, medium for mids and thin for treble. Have tried numerous hi end single cables, but none seem to be overall as good to my old ears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ufo Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 Lol I have since complied I did put the jumpers back in and single wired them for the last hour and concentrated on one piece of music. The Mahler finale. There is definitely a reduction in dynamics and soundstage with single wired setup. One big change when bi wired, the sound seems to be coming from all around the speakers, behind, in between above and beside them. Even when I look directly at a speaker it's hard to localise it. Single wired it was easy to spot. Isn't the former what we are supposed to strive for? The speakers should 'disappear'? I don't understand the crapping of the jumpers that come with the speakers. Why the manufacturers put the jumpers in if they are so horrible? At the end wouldn't they want their products to sound good? Don't get me wrong I am not saying jumpers are good or not but I am confused why would a speaker company put out speakers for thousands even tens of thousands of dollars supplying them with crap jumpers?!? If replacing the jumpers with speaker cable improves the sound why wouldn't they do it? Can experienced people elaborate on this a bit? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakey72 Posted June 20, 2016 Share Posted June 20, 2016 I've tried both and prefer biwiring. It seems to put more sparkle in the highs and tighten the bass up imo. I think the type of speaker cable can make a difference too. I sware by my diy RG213U cables... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rantan Posted June 20, 2016 Share Posted June 20, 2016 I have never found any difference when bi-wiring, but what genuinely does make a difference for the better ( IMO ), is good quality, but not crazy expensive, jumper leads. If you ditch the usual brass plates that most speaker makers use, you can get a tangible improvement for about $30 a set made up with spades or bananas, or even less if you just use some inexpensive and very short lengths of speaker cable for the bridging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okitoki Posted December 9, 2016 Share Posted December 9, 2016 digging up an old thread, but checking when people say bi-wiring is this what they mean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betty boop Posted December 9, 2016 Share Posted December 9, 2016 Yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunno77 Posted December 9, 2016 Share Posted December 9, 2016 14 minutes ago, okitoki said: digging up an old thread, but checking when people say bi-wiring is this what they mean? This would make zero difference if links were in or removed as it is still only coming from one channel per speaker. The links only need to be removed for passive or active bi-amping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volunteer sir sanders zingmore Posted December 9, 2016 Volunteer Share Posted December 9, 2016 1 minute ago, bunno77 said: This would make zero difference if links were in or removed as it is still only coming from one channel per speaker. The links only need to be removed for passive or active bi-amping Not everyone would agree with you. Pretty much everyone who bi-wires for example. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okitoki Posted December 9, 2016 Share Posted December 9, 2016 OK... here is a weird one... Is it possible to run it as a series speaker wiring? So.... Output[+] -> LF[+] then FL[-] -> HF[+] then HF[-] -> Output[-] just curious, as this is stiring up some car stereo memories from days (years) back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ufo Posted December 9, 2016 Share Posted December 9, 2016 (edited) 1 hour ago, bunno77 said: This would make zero difference if links were in or removed as it is still only coming from one channel per speaker. The links only need to be removed for passive or active bi-amping Well, a lot of people also say passive bi-amping is worthless and only way to get improvement/good result is active bi-amping, go figure. I once tried passive bi-amping with a A/V receiver Yammy 3020 on my front speakers and haven't noticed any improvement and gave up. But know running my fronts for 2CH listening thru my monoblocks via bi-wiring, why? Cause it looks cool Edited December 9, 2016 by ufo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krebetman Posted December 9, 2016 Share Posted December 9, 2016 This would make zero difference if links were in or removed as it is still only coming from one channel per speaker. The links only need to be removed for passive or active bi-amping ...ain't biwiring unless the links are removed. If the links are there it is effectively "shot-gunned". Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunno77 Posted December 9, 2016 Share Posted December 9, 2016 well, a lot of people also say passive bi-amping is worthless and only way to get improvement/good result is active bi-amping. I agree with this entirely. But still if attempting passive you need to remove the links. -Peach Audio Balanced Isolation Power Supply, Uptone LPS-1, Sonore Microrendu, Geek Pulse S Infinity, McIntosh MA2275, Paradigm 30th Anniversary Tributes, SVS SB13 Ultra-Cambridge 752BD Oppomod PSU, Halcro MC50, Sonos ZP90 (Cullen Mod), Cyenne Audio CY-3100 DAC , Denon AVR4520, Aaron ATS-5, Aaron CC-250, Epos Epic 5, Cambridge Audio Azur 551R V2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ufo Posted December 9, 2016 Share Posted December 9, 2016 Just now, bunno77 said: I agree with this entirely. But still if attempting passive you need to remove the links. -Peach Audio Balanced Isolation Power Supply, Uptone LPS-1, Sonore Microrendu, Geek Pulse S Infinity, McIntosh MA2275, Paradigm 30th Anniversary Tributes, SVS SB13 Ultra -Cambridge 752BD Oppomod PSU, Halcro MC50, Sonos ZP90 (Cullen Mod), Cyenne Audio CY-3100 DAC , Denon AVR4520, Aaron ATS-5, Aaron CC-250, Epos Epic 5, Cambridge Audio Azur 551R V2 U r right there, even for bi-wiring, u gotta remove the links. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
was_a Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Well I've joined the bi-wire club with my Legend Kurre 8 standmount speakers. Which of course are designed for this purpose. But that didn't stop me resisting for a long time. I even swapped a few emails with Dr Crawford to tell him he was wrong!! hehe.... Actually, I went to and fro between single- and bi-wiring for quite a few months. A less-than-satisfactory digital front end wasn't helping my judgment, but once I got this sorted the benefits with the Kurres bi-wired were not subtle. I listen to a variety of music, including classical symphonies, and I can echo (no pun intended) the observations of the OP almost word for word. (I'm using Atlas Hyper 3.0 cable for the woofers and Hyper 2.0 for tweeters). If you're reading this Rod, my apologies! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren69 Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 My new speakers that are coming are bi-wirable as are the JC1 monoblocks but it would be killer to purchase two lots of Valhallas! My existing are no bi wire versions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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