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davewantsmoore last won the day on April 22 2017

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  • Birthday October 16

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  1. Hmmm.... OK. I got the same result. I thought you might have had a mistake in your driver parameters.... but it's just that this driver really isn't good for a vented box (kinda surprised they list them as recommended). The peak you get from the vent may not be undesirable.
  2. The FM broadcaster applied EQ to their playout.... or the tuner does not have a flat frequency response.
  3. Yes, it's just a regular USB port... it supports anything any other USB does. 👍
  4. Hmmm... Ok, maybe something about secure boot. Won't matter for what you want. Run 7. From the MS website... and you don't need a key.
  5. Why? I don't think that is correct.... the requirements for windows 10 are very low.
  6. Nooo... no... no. Use the boxes recommended by Visaton. 70 litre / closed - - 56 Hz / Q 0.8 100 litre / closed - - 49 Hz / Q 0.71 150 litre / closed - - 43 Hz / Q 0.62 70 litre / bass reflex 36 Hz - 100 litre / bass reflex 32 Hz - 150 litre / bass reflex 29 Hz No. Don't. Build one of the above boxes..... depending on their predicted max SPL .... you could apply a modest amount of EQ to get the bass flat to ~30Hz (or a bit lower). ..... assuming you have access to EQ? PS. Sim the 100L box above and post the result to confirm your sims are working properly.
  7. My advice is the same / similar Don't clone anything. Install OSX onto the new blank SSD. Get a windows (10) ISO from Microsoft... and install it with bootcamp installer. You can buy an ebay license for $20 .... or you can just run windows unactivated for free. Install the highest version of windows you can. If it has to be XP, then sure, and it wil install fine (AFAIUI) ..... but you would want to avoid it (XP) at all costs. Alternatives: Install OSX fresh, and restore your environment from backup. Clone OSX partition (really don't recommend this approach).
  8. No.... or at least a"6dB rule" is nonsense. Dial in the bass you want.... and if you are making too much SPL (ie. over driving the bass) ... then turn the volume control down, If you don't want the volume down.... then you need to readust the bass EQ (less). I see little in your measurements that will be substantially solved by "treatment". The dips at 100 and 180 are the walls. If you put 10cm+ thick (much thicker is ideal) then it will make them smaller.... but it can't eliminate them. The best thing to do when using Dirac, is measure across each of your listening positions, and let it correct them. I would kinda consider leaving them incorrected (but dirac isn't that flexible.... so your best bet is to correct them). They are quite narrow.... so they look a lot worse than they are. This is almost twice as wide (~ half an ocatve vs 1/4 octave) as the 100 hz dips..... and I'd wonder what is causing it. It isn't the room. (eg. the mirror, or reflective surfaces, etc. etc.) I'd measure from different locations, and see if it moves or changes in size. Might it be due to the listening axis (vertical)? .... are you on the tweeter axis?... or are the speakers too low. (test this by doing a quick mic measurement closer and on the tweeter axis). Check your "RT60" type measurements as mentioned above.... or just ask yourself "does the room feel too live" (ie. is it echoey?.... is having a conversation in in pleasant). If so, a rug, and some absorbtion on the walls may bring this down generally. There doesn't look to be enough space in those corners to put anything there which would act as an effective bass trap. Change you target curve in dirac until it suits your preferences. There looks to be at least a 1 or 2dB "hole" in the octave around 100Hz.... this is quite a large error (and will definitely be audible). What I would try: Keep the points at 40 and 400 Hz where they are, and make it more of a linear increase between them (ie. boost 200 to 400 by a bit ..... 100 to 200 by quite a bit, etc.) You might increase the bass boost a bit .... but be careful about letting it apply too much (or any) boost below ~40hz. I would lean towards "keep your money". .... but if you want to put things in the room, what I would say is you should not be buying things to specifically fix any of the "problems" you have identified in the measurements. The room probably need to be "damped" a bit more.... a curtain, and a decent sized absorber panel on the back, and/or front wall should help. DIY is super for this, as you can make it how big you need (area, and thickness) ..... get the exact style you want..... and you can get the materials for $100 bucks, as opposed to squillions. This means you can test it out ..... go to bunnings, get a pack of cheap insulation and shove it in the corner, or temporarily rig it up on the wall somehow. Does it do what you want? Make a nice "panel", or put it in the bin.
  9. A lower tuning (longer port) will generally give you less bass.... but it's all swings and roundabouts. Only very detailed simulations can really show what's going to happen in any detail... and even then, build and measure (repeat) is king.
  10. No.... it is miles above this Hz. Yes..... the baffle is basically invisible by 400 Hz (for a small ish speaker) What driver is this?
  11. You have to get the spec sheet from canare, which requires filling out a form.
  12. My main home server is x86..... so I can publish apps / VMs from there, and access them remotely from MacOS or Linux. That being said, if a couple of key things don't hurry up with ARM Linux support .... then I might be heading back to MacOS for work (I am Linux for work, and MacOS for pleasure). I think I'm as superstitius about "fresh install" with OSX these days, as I used to be with Windows.
  13. ... but if you mean in 2021.... the return of MagSafe (which was pretty well rumoured to be coming) restores my faith in civilisation somewhat. As long as they bring it to the Air .... then I can stop sending the threatening letters. I've made peace with losing WINE and now (practical) x86 virtualisation.... and am holding my breath on ARM linux support on this hardware (promising so far).
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