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Further Information: I was very happy with this sub, but it was for a second system that just didn't get used enough. The proceeds of this sale willing be going towards an upgrade of the main system. The app control is very convenient for adjusting the sub from the listening position. Also comes with original packaging. Under warranty until March 2026.

Item: Paradigm Studio Sub 12 Subwoofer in Rosewood finish Price Range: A case of decent beer (no, Great Northern is not acceptable) Item Condition: Used, semi-functional (it either works or it doesn't, but when it does it works well... see below) Item Location: Hesket (Regional Vic) or I could lug it into the CBD one day at a push Extra Info: I have a used Paradigm Studio Sub 12 subwoofer that needs to leave my home studio's floor. It's in decent condition (see picture of surface scratch on top of unit below) but it only intermittently wakes up from slumber and plays the brown notes I want from it. It is repairable, but I'm up to my ears in subwoofers and don't want to do it myself. No, I don't have the grille from the front of the subwoofer. RRP was circa $3k when new. https://www.paradigm.com/en/sealed/sub-12 From the repairer who inspected it recently: If you are electronically inclined you might want to give it a spin at repairs yourself. I expect the repairer is just proposing the old "swap the whole board out" rather than identifying the component at fault game.

Hey guys, looking for options for a couple 24" sealed subwoofers. AFAIK there aren't any Australian places that make them, however I have found these places that do. I'm going to go with a passive subwoofer because the active versions seem to be prohibitively expensive vs passive plus an power amplifier (For example the Speaker Power SP2-12000 or SP2-6400). I'd also be interested in any suggestions for amplifiers in Australia that are as good or better than these amps for the same or lower price than these. 24" subwoofer options - Stereo Integrity HS-24 Driver only. - $1,399.99 USD (Plus $800 - $1000 to get a cabinet built locally here in SA) Also haven't responded to my email for shipping. Funk Audio - 24.0E - $4,670 USD (Plus shipping etc. Fully built ready to go just an input needed). Only 2200w though and could definitely be pushed to 4000w+, so losing some output there. Funk Audio 24.0 - USD 8,900.00, but can get without an amp or with external amp, currently waiting on email back for pricing without their amp. ( I wouldn't buy this for $8,900 USD, maybe half with an amp, but 8.9k USD is way to rich for a single sub with these other options available!) Harbottle M24 (Passive) - $4,100 AUD for efficiency tune, $3,900 AUD no efficiency tune. Best option? (From their page - "The efficiency tune results in a little more top end extension and higher efficiency in the low end. Overall a cleaner and better dymanics per watt. ") MARIANA 24SR - $4,000 USD. Looked like the best option at 4,400w amp all ready to go, however they don't ship internationally so that's VERY unfortunate for me! Amplifiers - I only know of this amp that's good quality that will last and suit subwoofers. Unfortunately the SP2-8000 is only 120v, I'd get it otherwise. SP2-12000 - USD $3,799.00 (Plus USD $450!!!! for shipping) (8000w peak) SP2-6400 - Unsure. But lower power at 2ohm. (Rigo repsonded via email.) SP2-6400-HT - 3200W @ 4 Ohms Per channel both driven - 113V RMS @ 4 ohms *Requires 230V mains to achieve full power (half power at 120V) 125 V Amplifier Wattage / Voltage RMS MAX OUTPUT VOLTAGE SP2-12000-HT - 6000W @ 2 Ohms Per channel both driven - 113V RMS @ 4 ohms - 110V RMS @ 2ohms *Requires 230V mains to achieve full power (half power at 120V) 125 V Does anyone know of any other options?

Hello, does anyone have experience with setting this sub up and if so could you share your experience please. I have a single sub and have tried various placements but not sure I’m getting it right. It almost seems like setting up two Rels might be easier than one, you just place them next to the speakers. 1) I tried placing my single Rel next to right speaker but that resulted in “illuminating” just the right side and leaving the left side sounding dull. Meaning without the sub sound saturation if you know what I mean.. 2)When I place it in the corner it becomes directional on some tracks, I.e I can tell the sub is in the corner but that’s what rel recommends. 3) between and behind speakers seems to work ok but not getting the soundstage benefits I read about. the rel is currently crossed at about 40hz and 3 clicks up on the gain. the rest of my system consists of Dynaudio Contour 20 speakers (39hz to 20khz) , Primaluna HP integrated with kt150s and bluesound node 2. Thanks in advance! greg

I have a system that consists of Monitor Audio RS1's, RSLCR and in-ceiling RSFx speakers. I have an old Audioline twin 8" sub, but I do not turn it on much because I don't enjoy it. It lacks dynamics, so it does not sound like it integrates at all. This system is not used much for music, mainly 5.1. I have a Dynaudio Sub 500 on my other system. I love this sub, but I cannot spend the same sort of money for something for the MA system (divorce may follow if I did). Would I get any benefit from upgrading the existing sub? Either replacing the drivers, or amp as well? Or should I look at something like the LSK 12" Dayton kit? I have some ability to take things apart, but don't have tools for cutting out etc.

To Sub or not Two Subs – that is the question. Product: REL 528SE (until very recently - no longer manufactured) R-528SE Specifications Type: Front-firing active woofer, down-firing passive radiator Active Drive Unit: 12 in., (300 mm) carbon fibre aluminum chassis Passive Radiator: 12 in., (300 mm) carbon-carbon Lower Frequency Response in Room: 21 Hz at -6 dB Input Connectors: Hi Level Neutrik Speakon, Lo Level single phono, LFE phono Gain Control Range: 80 dB Power Output: 500 watts (RMS) Phase Switch: Yes, 0 or 180 degrees Amplifier Type: Class D Protection System Fully Electronic with SET-SAFE: Yes D.C. Fault: Yes Output Short: Yes Mains Input Voltage: 110-120, 220-240 volts, for certain markets Fuses: 9 Amp semi delay 115 volts operation 5 Amp semi delay 230 volts operation Dimensions (WHD): 15.5 x 17.5 x 17.2 in., (394 x 445 x 436 mm) Net Weight: 58 lbs. (26.3 kg) Finish: Gloss Piano Black Lacquer Gloss White Piano Lacquer - Special Order See more at - http://rel.net/ REL make Subs and pretty good ones at that. The whole Serie R model and line that I auditioned has since been made redundant and replaced with the S line which has already received some great reviews. They look fantastic too. This REL is the Special Edition and only 546 are in existence worldwide. What makes it special? It employs the same driver as the monolithic Gibraltar G1 sub – a beautifully constructed 12 inch carbon fibre driver, and a tweaked amplifier. Now on paper this Sub seems like a bargain considering the G1 is over twice the retail price. The G 1 of course has different amplification, class A/B and a gargantuan sealed and braced cabinet. Do they sound the same? In a word no, the G1 is deeper, meatier and has more presence. The SE does a very good job at keeping close to its performance though. This is impressive. The REL can run duel High Level and LFE line to the pre-amp. This high level connection which REL calls the Neutrik Speakon, is a supplied 10m cable with connects to the back of the amp – to the speaker terminals. This ensures that the Sub gets exactly the same signal as the front left/right speakers in two channel stereo. More here: http://rel.net/support/rel-connectivity/ Set up was a breeze and I fiddled with the volumes and crossovers until I thought they sounded good. This was by no means a professional shuffle but more of a rudimentary ear by ear calibration. With only a subtle hint of High Level volume adjustment (perhaps 30-40%) stereo music certainly had more bass and filled the room with more ambience. The SE was both subtle and prominent when it needed to be, dependant on what music I was listening too. Playing anything from acoustic, strings, cello, to hip hop and RAP provided entertaining and enthralling listening. This made the system of two Monitor Audio PL300’s (already great in the bass department) bigger, deeper, wider, resonating sound from beyond the boxes. The system sound reminded me of listening to the rather large PMC MB2SE’s which I recently had the pleasure of hearing. This was very good indeed. With a good run period of a week I found the SE’s got deeper and louder and I had to turn down the high level connection a notch or two. Moving onto soundtracks such as the Thing and The Dark Knight – the system reminded me of listening to the DAC – Chord QBD76 HDSD , a fuller richer sound with plenty of low end adjustable thump. Placing the SE’s on spikes and then sitting them on Blue Coast spike stands, made a huge difference to the sound, dampening excess resonance through the hard wood floorboards. The resonating is an issue in my listening room, as the floorboards sit on hard wood joists (stumps) which are around 90 years old. Moving onto movies in DTS was an excellent transforming experience. The SE’s are deep, tight and extremely fast Subs. There is no presence of sloppy, tired or slow effect here. The word I’m looking for is extremely precise. Yes they will not go as subterranean as some larger varieties, but they certainly go low enough for my needs and for me, the accuracy far outweighs the trade-off of lower thumping units. One SE was great – but what about two? I set up one at the front of the room, and one at the rear of the room in the opposite corner. It was the only place I could fit them! I had a demo from REL at the last Melbourne Audio show. They played an excerpt from the western 310 to Yuma. In this particular clip, two shots are fired from a pistol. They played the clip with one sub, then again with two subs of the same model (R218’s I think). The difference? The sound of the gun shot resonated with much more presence, surrounding the listener, there was much more grunt to the sound, more echo, and more realism. I really didn’t expect to hear such a difference. I tried the same experimentation with the SE’s with the film Jack Reacher. At the very beginning of the movie a sniper fires a rifle. The lead up before the first shot is some ambient incidental music which sets the scene nicely. I wasn’t really prepared for the sound of the first shot as it made me jump. That doesn’t happen often; especially I as knew what was coming. The crack and ambient sound of the first shot reminded me of being on the rifle range, great realism - it was excellent. From then on I was hooked, playing quite a few movies and excerpts from car chases, helicopters and star ships. One sub was good, two was magnificent. Given the rudimentary set up – with proper time, effort and calibration, I can only assume that the SE’s will sound even better. The build quality of these models was the usual high standard from REL. My models were white, and in the flesh I much preferred them to the black ones you always see. The white cabinet contrasted with the black carbon fibre driver looked quite stunning. My only gripe would be that REL does not supply a remote. The thing would be to calibrate – set it and forget it. However if you’re like me and you like to tinker around sometimes – dependent on the quality of the sound recording or mastering, it’s always handy to do adjustments on the fly. Sadly these models are no longer made. If you can hold of one (or two) I highly recommend a serious listen. They have a great all round ability with music and movies and provide detailed precise bass that blends in seamlessly with the system. Two G1’s – now that would be something… and in washer dryer configeration -

Looking for a Subwoofer to fill out the bottom end a little. Currently considering Rel R328 vs SVS PB13 Ultra vs Rythmik F12 SE (price - I max out at $2K, but I'm very happy for less!) It will be connected into a WLM Sonata tube amp and supporting WLM Diva monitors. My usage is 70% music. The sub will have to take high-level inputs as I don't have a dedicated sub out or pre-out so I think this eliminates the SVS PB13 Ultra. I've had an offer of a demo of the Ryhtmik F12, but I have no comparison or ability to have both it and the Rel R328 in the same room. I do like that both of them should integrate well for Home Theatre, but prioritise music. Looking for suggestions or comparisons as I have no idea on subs other than they should integrate well.

Hi, I'm looking at buying a sub and amp, I found these: JL AUDIO 12W3V3-4 12" 500W RMS 4-OHMS JL Audio JX500/1D 1000W My question is that the amp can do 500w rms at 2 ohms and 300w rms at 4 ohms, will running it at 500w rms at 2 ohms hurt the sub as it's 500w rms at 4? Or would it be better at 300w rms at 4, I'm after best system as I can. Any info would be helpful, thanks

Howdy fellow DIYers, I've been having a little muck around with WinIsd to help me design a new sub. WAF has me restricted to re-purposing an existing piece of furniture to house the sub, this has left the internal volume of the box to be approx 200L. The room is 200m3 and has several large openings to other rooms. HT to music ratio is about 60/40, so the sub needs to err toward the HT side (Mrs Jone5y likes bass). I'm unable to the project file but the design was for a vented sub that utilises the Mach 5 UXL 18" driver in a 200L enclosure tuned to 18Hz. 1000w input signal, Butterworth Highpass @ 10Hz, Parametric eq set to 3dB gain @ 20Hz. Square port of 50cm (width of box) x 9cm, folded to reach length of 190cm - seems very high. My main questions are a) have I got it totally wrong, will this driver/box combo fulfil my requirements c) is it overkill d) what other options would you suggest? The end goal is to pair the sub to either the VAF dc-x35's, Troel's DTQWT, or Paul's HE2. Budget for the sub is 1k Any help would be much appreciated

I received notification of this beast today http://www.infrasonic.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=181. I'll leave the implementation (Sealed/Ported/EQ) to those more knowledgable than myself, suffice to say a 21" driver with 34mm x max should move a whole lotta air and be capable of some serious SPL. I can't attach the .wdr file but can provide a link for download for those who are interested.

Hello all. In our haste to launch the new Platform2 Subwoofer we forgot to check inventory for Platform MK1 Subwoofers. Here's what we found: 1 x Australian Jarrah 1 x American Cherry 3 x Tasmanian Blackwood 4 x Black European Oak 2 x Clear European Oak Yes. I know. A stack that big. How could we miss it. But in our enthusiasm we did. The specs: 1195mm Wide x 500mm Deep x 170mm High (plus legs to various heights see pics) 320mm long travel downward facing woofer 350W proprietary digital amplifier plate. DSP. Digital compression management. Infinately variable phase. Variable high-pass filtered output (for stereo lovers) Good output to 20Hz. Flat to around 23. Big clean sound. RRP was: $2099 Black European Oak $2249 Tasmanian Blackwood & American Cherry & Clear Oak $2299 Australian Jarrah Make us an offer. VAF Research FreeCall 1800 818 882 vaf@vaf.com.au EMAIL - Platform Preliminary Information.pdf

Hola Amigos. I've had my speaker system now for around a year and a half. It's my first foray into "proper" hifi and as such, my emphasis when planning, purchasing and setting up was on lounge-room home theater. I have absolutely loved it thus far, I make full use of it every weekend with a movie or two (always at full noise of course), and every night as normal use while watching TV. Months ago, I invested in a Turntable, Phono Stage and have been collecting vinyl since. The phono connects to my Yamaha Aventage A710, and as my speaker setup through the Yamy has my fronts set as 'small' and xover at 60hz, I always just left it as is for movies. The reason for this thread, is that I only listen to music in Straight, which utalises the use of the subwoofer and the front floor standers. I've always felt that my floorstanders lacked bass, but the sub more than made up for them. However, with music, I always felt there was something missing. I felt myself straining and longing for more mid-low "punch" and thump. Sure, the sub produces fast, fantastic and clear low end bass, almost effortlessly, more than enough for my taste, but I still couldn't help feeling something was missing during music, and if I turned the sub off (power), most bass was lost. A couple of weeks ago, I changed the settings on the amp to accept the floorstanders as Large, and Do Not Use for the sub. I dropped XX by The XX onto the platter, lowered the arm and was instantly greeted by the sound I'd been searching for. It was a 'drop-to-your-knees-and-wave-your-hands-in-the-air' moment for me. I sat back and enjoyed a full range of frequencies delivered by my left and right channels alone. I can't believe how much bass they produce without the sub and more importantly, how low they go. I never knew a 10" driver in a floorstander can vibrate my back through the couch with the sub off. Suffice to say, all my music listening is now L/R only. Now, I want more from my music, in particular, from the power source. And therein lies the problem; I still watch movies, and so now I have to go into settings and change the configuration every time I want to play music, or watch a bluray/tv. This is annoying, and got me thinking. I know I can change my receiver to accept front speaker passthrough and run a dedicated 2 channel amp through, but that means I have to get a new receiver as well as a new amp. In the future, we'd like to build our next home and part of the plan is to build a dedicated theater room, and have a seperate 2 channel system, but for now, how do you think this will work?: My current floorstanders' cable runs to a terminal in the wall (see crap phone photo below), fed to the reciever in the front left corner of the room (the only place for it). What if I kept that configuration as is, bought a dedicated 2 channel amp, and placed it and the turntable between the speakers as they are, and ran another set of speaker cables to my speakers directly. I would have both the cables from the receiver, AND the decicated 2 chan setup connected to the speakers at the same time, however, only one would be on/playing at any one time, of course. The cable from the receiver plugs into the speakers via banana plugs, the cable from the 2chan amp would connect to the same speaker terminal via spades. I would be able to keep all my settings on the receiver for tv and movies, then turn the receiver off, turn on the tt and 2chan amp and play some music at a much higher quality than my receiver will ever dream of producing. Is this even feasable? Has anyone done this before? If so, what was the outcome? Does it have any implications for the receiver or would it not even matter as long as the receiver is not sending a signal? Am I dreaming? If so, do I have any other options? Sorry for the long post... Kind regards, Elyas

Hi there, so i've got a TC sounds LMS ulta 5400 18" driver, which i will be powering with a Crown XTI4002 amplifier. box is being made out of 32mm MDF with bracing, using santos pallisander in high gloss as the veneer. should be picking up the box in the next couple of days.... anyway here are the progress photos!!! ENJOY!!! i plan on making these and selling them, so let me know if you're interested. they'll be between $2-3k passive depending on finish. and will happily advise about amplifiers to power this beast. i found a guy online who measured the maximum CLEAN SPL output of subwoofer drivers @ 2m distance. please see last attached photo for his measurements. i've highlighted the measurement of the TC sounds and also of the JL F113, the F113 retails for about $5000, and the TC sounds, has almost 5dbs on it.... or in other words, will produce deeper bass, with less distortion at the same volume level. Installation Dimensions: Build Log Photos:

Ok Audiophiles.. This is a test of your Knowledge. Who knows or has any information on the Luxman LW-100 active subwoofer?

Hello all. 1) We have around 16 x VAF MPB SW4 Powered Subwoofers we want to move. They are finished in either American Cherry, Tasmanian Blackwood or Australian Jarrah. These are all the latest models with over 300W digital amplification, inbuilt DSP, infinately variable phase, digital compression management, and for the audiophiles they even have high pass filterd outputs to blend in with stereo systems. Regular price = $1486 (Cherry or Blackwood), and $1536 (Jarrah) plus $65 insured door to door freight if required. For this lot the price will be only $1000 plus freight if needed. Be Quick. This price aplies to only these units, it is not an ongoing price so once they are gone so is this price. 2) We also have around the same number of Signature i90 cabinets in the same finishes we'd like to clear. http://vaf.com.au/de...runt=s200r26745 . Regular prices =$1,099 each in these finishes For this lot the price will be only $900 Be Even Quicker These are all perfect, we simply are selling hugely more numbers in Black or White and want to balance our inventory. To order or for more information: FreeCall 1800 818 882 Email vaf@vaf.com.au VAF Customer Service www.vaf.com.au

Hey guys just wondering if anyone is thinking about selling their REL B2, preferably black in colour. Pm me if you do! Thanks.

Item: SVS, Paradigm, Velodyne (or other) subwoofers Price Range: up to $800 depending on model, condition etc and any delivery costs to Brisbane Item Condition: New or Used Extra Info: Looking for a subwoofer from one of the above brands, or happy to look at other reputable brands as well. Filling a large room (about 180 cubic meters) for primarily home theatre duties. My thinking is ideally this would be ported and something like the SVS PB-2000, Paradigm DSP-3200 or Velodyne EQ-Max 12. I would also look at two smaller subs as an alternative. Thanks for looking.

Item: MJ Acoustics, Reference 400 MkI Subwoofer Price Range: AUD $1500 Item Condition: Used Some interest in the 80​0 as well.

Item: AMC B1-20 Subwoofer Price Range: Negotiable Item Condition: Used Extra Info: Currently have one, would like to get one more as a pair.

Hi I am considering a subwoofer for my B&W601s2 speakers and Rega Amp. Ideally I would upgrade my speakers but this is an interim solution until I can put more $$ into new floor standers. A PSB subsonic 5 i has come up for sale second hand and I am wondering if it would suit and is good value at $250. Also will it be easy enough to integrate into my current amp and speakers Here are the specs: Specifications Type: Self-powered subwoofer Woofer: 10" polypropylene cone with 1.5" rubber surround Frequency Response: 30 to 150Hz Maximum SPL: @ 100Hz, 109dB Amplifier Power: 150 Watts continuous "Class H" Crossover Variable: 50Hz to 150Hz (24dB/octave Linkwitz-Riley Low pass filter) Inputs/Outputs: Low/Line Level/LFE Gold-plated RCA Inputs and Outputs High/Loudspeaker Level Gold-plated 5-way Binding Post Input and Output Internal Volume: 1.01 cu ft (28.6 liter) Design Type: Bass Reflex Internally and Externally Video Shielded Dimensions: 12.63 x 16.5 x 14.88 (W x H x D) Weight: 33 lbs. Finish: Black Ash Vinyl Veneer Here is one review I could find about the sub http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/equipment/0604/psbsubsonic5i.htm I would really appreciate others thoughts. Cheers Doug

Hi. I am looking at adding a sub to my current system, it is only used for music. I mainly listen to techno. The current system is: Macbook Aune T1 (Next to be upgraded) Perreaux SM3 Genelec 8030A I have been originally looking at the Richter Thor. However I am thinking maybe a smaller better quality sub will be better. I was also hoping the sub has audio out, so it will be connected to the preamp. And the monitors to the sub. Or is there a better way of doing this? As I'm buying second hand, I'm looking for something that I can buy for a few hundred. The room it is filling is approx 5x5. Cheers

I bought this sub from Andrew (SNA Member) last year after waiting for ages for one to come up, and it is exceptional. He rated this as his favourite audiophile sub, with by far the nicest sound - his opinion is based on significant experience, having owned two DB2Ds in his 20 different high end subwoofers over the years, including REL, Velodyne, JL, and Sunfire. I am selling it because it is now under-utilised after upgrading my 800 series B&W floorstanders. It is too good to be rolled into service as a home-theatre sub, even though the twin 10 inch Aerofoil cone drive units are quite capable of thumping my house, and shaking the windows - and it would do a great job! It's better off as an audiophile sub. These are RRP $5900 and don't come up often, so don't take too long to think about it! Original packaging and accessories included, I can ship Australia wide at buyers expense. - 2 x 250mm (10 in) Aerofoil™ cone drive units in a balanced configuration - 2x magnetic grills - Frequency range-6dB at 8.5Hz - 500Hz - Frequency response 10Hz - 350 Hz -3dB (centered on level at 100Hz) - Max power output 1000W Automatic room configuration via Phone App Inputs: 2 x XLR; 2 x RCA; 2 x 3.5mm 12V trigger; RS-232 - 9-pin D connector Cabinet finished in Rosenut. tags - Velodyne, JL audio, Paradigm, Yamaha, Bowers and Wilkins, Marantz, home theatre, Rotel, SVS, REL acoustics

Further Information: RRP GBP 414 (plus shipping from UK, converts to approx $1150 - $1200 AUD). Forward firing sub featuring 10" Peerless driver and a 300 watt amp. Light oak veneer. Purchased new, direct from Bk Electronics in the UK, in late 2022. This is the revamped version of the XLS200 mk2 as the amp was bootsed up to 300 watts and its been renamed the XLS300 Mk2. I am only selling as I now have loudspeakers which dont require a sub woofer in my room. BK Electronics make quality sub woofers and sell direct to consumers which makes them truly excellent value. Comes with original packaging and 3m low level RCA cable and spikes for carpet. http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Sub_Woofers/XLS200.htm I also have Soundcare M8 Superspikes (which are feet to help isolate the sub from the floor) which I will list separately but can bundle in to this purchase for a discounted price. You'll see them included in one of the photos just so you can see how the sub looks with the Superspike feet but they are not included in this listing/asking price. So you can estimate shipping costs, the box weighs 21kg and dimensions are 43cm wide x 43cm deep x 50cm high. My postocode is 2620.

Further information: Selling my Krix Tektonix 450w rms subwoofer, it is in excellent working condition and comes with manuals and guides as well as purchase receipt for warranty, I do also have the original packaging, however didn't get time to include in the photos. This has been an excellent performing subwoofer dishing out clean deep bass with great output in both music and movie applications, I have personally been through many subwoofers over the years and this sub has always stood out to me and has been my favourite subwoofer, this will be a regretful sale, however I do have to downgrade my set-up and have to let this subwoofer go. Photos: PLEASE READ If you include any reference to pricing whatsoever in this section (excluding RRP), your ad will not be approved If you are advertising multiple items, you must post one bulk price only, or post seperate ads for each item If you don't include photographs of the actual item being sold, your ad will not be approved You understand that upon successful sale of your item it is expected you pay Seller's Fees. - if you have previously sold items and not made a contribution, your advertisement may not be approved.

Further information: Up for sale is a Rel R205 subwoofer. It's a sealed 10inch subwoofer powered by a 200W amp. It has both LFE and Rel's high level input. The sub can receive both signals simultaneously and be leveled independently on the control panel. This allows for very easy blending with your mains. It is a very detailed, musical subwoofer which, despite is size can dig quite deep. It's best suited to a small to medium sized room. To give context, I'm currently using it in a 7x6x3.5M open planned space at the moment, but found it to be more than enough in my prior lounge which was 3x4x2.8. It's in very good condition, with only very minor stuffs from cleaning. I have misplaced the grill Cover, so it will come without. It will come with the high level connector Photos: PLEASE READ If you include any reference to pricing whatsoever in this section (excluding RRP), your ad will not be approved If you are advertising multiple items, you must post one bulk price only, or post seperate ads for each item If you don't include photographs of the actual item being sold, your ad will not be approved You understand that upon successful sale of your item it is expected you pay Seller's Fees. - if you have previously sold items and not made a contribution, your advertisement may not be approved.