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Didn't see this section before so posting here. To clarify there will only be one lounge in there. I currently have a 3 seater, but may change to a 2 seater once the house is built. Money won't be an issue for the size of the room besides the ceiling height as that will be 2.7m. Hey guys, so I'm planning to build a house somewhat soon, and looking for the best size dedicated HTS room... I've looked up the ratios, and found a bunch of different ratios, but unsure what's better over another.. For example here are a few I've calculated from a website that listed the ratios for a few different ones. I'll have 2.7m ceilings. I think 6.7m is just too long, so I am thinking the Louden or Boner ratios, but unsure what the real difference is. Although 4.3m long might be a little small? Not sure on that one. 99% of the time it'll just be me in there. 80% movies/TV shows etc, 20% music probably. Sepmeyer 2.7 x 3.456 x 4.158 Louden 2.7 x 3.78 x 5.13 Volkman 2.7 x 4.05 x 6.75 Boner 2.7 x 3.402 x 4.293 Probably go for 2.7 x 3.4 x 4.3 Or 2.7 x 3.8 x 5.1 Some of the sites then say 4.5x6m is best but I haven't come across a site that says "why" for those dimensions. I currently have a 5.1 system, Dali Zensor 7 loudspeakers and centre speaker as well as the 2 bookshelf surrounds. Current sub is Velodyne SPL-1000 Ultra. Yamaha RX-A3080, 65" C8 LG OLED. Will likely upgrade to a bigger TV, 77" or 83" LG OLED until MicroLED become avilable at reasonable cost to consumers, but undecided. I'll be looking to upgrade to either 7. 1/2. 4/6, 9. 1/2. 4/6 and probably replace the current speakers with higher end ones. Looking at the Denon AVC-X8500HA receiver, Rythmik FV18 or potentially the FV25HP sub, possibly two if I get the FV18. I'm not sure on what speakers to go for to upgrade to though. Budget would probably be about 15-20k for speakers, not including subwoofer or receiver. Also would it be worth getting a Preamp and going separate amps? The preamp costs the SAME as the full receiver so not too sure about that tbh. Like would it really make that much of a difference? Also it would be much appreciated if anyone could recommend an audio guy to do treatment and setup of the HTS for proper placement of the speakers, TV etc that can go to regional SA (Ceduna). Also what should I budget for this roughly if anyone has had experience? Lastly, thanks for reading my long winded post! Any help appreciated!

Hey guys, I don't know if this is the right category for my question but if it isnt please move it, Everyday on my way to school I like to listen to my music out loud with my friends, I used to do it with my phone but it ends up hard to hear especially with traffic and such, I made a pair of logitech ls11 speakers portable by powering them off batteries and putting them in a cardboard box, They were alright volume(About as loud as my phone) and had a bit more quality than my phone, But they ran out of batteries within an hour of use and that was getting inefficient and expensive. So i've decided I want to undertake a project where i'm going to use a 12v sealed lead acid battery and use it to power some speakers and a sub. So heres what I need. *Speaker, Preferably a full range car speaker of some sort *Subwoofer, Needs to provide good bass at loud volumes *LOUD, Most important bit, Needs to be quite loud that can be heard easily over traffice with good quality and bass *Portable, Needs to last for atleast 2-3 hours a day and be light. * Size, Needs to fit in my schoolbag with a bit of room to spare. *Rechargeble *Enclosure for all the speakers This is my schoolbag, It's a Nike one its not too small but its not very big eitherhttp://sportitemsstore.com/product/nike-backpack-bag-sand-blue-athletic-school-gym-travel-laptop-bags-ba4378-414/ I can build my own enclosure. So does anyone have any tips or anything? I was thinking 4 inch car speakers and a 6 inch sub? It needs to be around $100-120 And available in Australia Cheers

Hi Guys I've just taken possession of a Scoop Bin to put in a JBL2245 I had lying around. I did a fair bit of research before getting it, and indeed all the advice from others holds true. The bass doesn't go that low, but it has amazing kick in the 80 to 100htz range. The trouble is that this only enhances about 5 to 10% of the music I listen too. I did notice this morning that at the mouth of the acoop, the bracing is recessed, so I had the bright idea of maybe getting a perfect fitting peice of MDF and then turning into a sealed unit. I could always try and port the unit as well, making the port drive up into the scoop area. Anyways, I was just wondering whether anyone has had any experience with scoops and could maybe offer some alternative advice. Andrew

Hola Amigos. I've had my speaker system now for around a year and a half. It's my first foray into "proper" hifi and as such, my emphasis when planning, purchasing and setting up was on lounge-room home theater. I have absolutely loved it thus far, I make full use of it every weekend with a movie or two (always at full noise of course), and every night as normal use while watching TV. Months ago, I invested in a Turntable, Phono Stage and have been collecting vinyl since. The phono connects to my Yamaha Aventage A710, and as my speaker setup through the Yamy has my fronts set as 'small' and xover at 60hz, I always just left it as is for movies. The reason for this thread, is that I only listen to music in Straight, which utalises the use of the subwoofer and the front floor standers. I've always felt that my floorstanders lacked bass, but the sub more than made up for them. However, with music, I always felt there was something missing. I felt myself straining and longing for more mid-low "punch" and thump. Sure, the sub produces fast, fantastic and clear low end bass, almost effortlessly, more than enough for my taste, but I still couldn't help feeling something was missing during music, and if I turned the sub off (power), most bass was lost. A couple of weeks ago, I changed the settings on the amp to accept the floorstanders as Large, and Do Not Use for the sub. I dropped XX by The XX onto the platter, lowered the arm and was instantly greeted by the sound I'd been searching for. It was a 'drop-to-your-knees-and-wave-your-hands-in-the-air' moment for me. I sat back and enjoyed a full range of frequencies delivered by my left and right channels alone. I can't believe how much bass they produce without the sub and more importantly, how low they go. I never knew a 10" driver in a floorstander can vibrate my back through the couch with the sub off. Suffice to say, all my music listening is now L/R only. Now, I want more from my music, in particular, from the power source. And therein lies the problem; I still watch movies, and so now I have to go into settings and change the configuration every time I want to play music, or watch a bluray/tv. This is annoying, and got me thinking. I know I can change my receiver to accept front speaker passthrough and run a dedicated 2 channel amp through, but that means I have to get a new receiver as well as a new amp. In the future, we'd like to build our next home and part of the plan is to build a dedicated theater room, and have a seperate 2 channel system, but for now, how do you think this will work?: My current floorstanders' cable runs to a terminal in the wall (see crap phone photo below), fed to the reciever in the front left corner of the room (the only place for it). What if I kept that configuration as is, bought a dedicated 2 channel amp, and placed it and the turntable between the speakers as they are, and ran another set of speaker cables to my speakers directly. I would have both the cables from the receiver, AND the decicated 2 chan setup connected to the speakers at the same time, however, only one would be on/playing at any one time, of course. The cable from the receiver plugs into the speakers via banana plugs, the cable from the 2chan amp would connect to the same speaker terminal via spades. I would be able to keep all my settings on the receiver for tv and movies, then turn the receiver off, turn on the tt and 2chan amp and play some music at a much higher quality than my receiver will ever dream of producing. Is this even feasable? Has anyone done this before? If so, what was the outcome? Does it have any implications for the receiver or would it not even matter as long as the receiver is not sending a signal? Am I dreaming? If so, do I have any other options? Sorry for the long post... Kind regards, Elyas

Just came across this web page that has outlined a Low frequency multi faceted corner horn design I was thinking of @@atilsley @@henry218 when I came across this design as they are always looking for other ways to build a cabinet http://www.spherovox.com/Corner_Folded_Horn_Designs.php

So, I was talking to an acoustic consultant today, sort of a first step in getting an idea on what I will need to do in order to integrate the new speakers into the new room. It is not something that I have thought too much about, I sorta figured if I had enough space that I could get them to integrate well. This guy had my room details and speaker details and basically came to the conclusion that it would be impossible to get good bass in my room because my proposed bass solutions were too extreme for the room size and would emit "too much energy" and cause all kinds of room mode problems. He estimated a +28dB peak in the frequency response at 40Hz and +18dB at 80Hz and a few others I cannot remember. The basic message from this fellow was to do with the size of the drivers used for the bass frequencies: they were too big for the room and would give off too much energy and would be really, really difficult to control. I am proposing 8 x 10" drivers a side to handle 20Hz - 100Hz. My design thoughts here are large surface area, small excursion, high efficiency (I only have 12W to drive them with). He said one 10" a side would be too big for my room which measures 6m x 4.3m and that he could not get rid of enough energy in there to flatten the frequency response. Which leads me to my question. My understanding of acoustics is obviously different to the consultants, and I would have thought he knew better than me given that has been his job for 30+ years, but isn't the amount of sound energy (pressure) a speaker puts into the room at a specific frequency tied to both cone surface area and excursion? Aren't 8 x 10" drivers moving say 1mm putting out about the same energy out as 1 x 10" driver moving 8mm? Am I missing something? Afterall it is Friday and my brain is fried! Cheers, Anthony

Item: JBL 2245H 18" Bass Drivers Price Range: Market value Item Condition: New or Used Extra Info: Hopefully the stars align and someone has a pair available. Happy to pay for shipping etc.

I have a beautiful black Fernandes Gravity 5X 5-String Electric Bass in pristine condition. Only used a few times at home, never been outside. Smoke-free and pet-free home, no kids. Manufacturer's product page: http://www.fernandesguitars.com/gravity/gravity-5-x.html Robert Trujillo from Metallica used Gravity 5 bass in his early days - http://www.deadonetrading.com/RobertTrujilloEquipment.html Currently for sale on ebay for $710 + $180 postage from Japan. Pick up only from St Kilda 3182.

Item: CopilotFX Cubic bass octaver and effects pedal Location: Brisbane Price: $130 Negotiable Item condition: As new. Only used twice in home environment. Reason for selling: I need the money Payment Methods: Cash - pickup or COD with Australia post. Extra Info: The pedal costs around 170 AU$ new, including shipping. I am also including a 9V power adapter. Click Here to listen to the effects it offers (please note that some effects towards the end of the video are done with additional pedals) Pictures: