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Pioneer Kuro Black bar has appeared


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@Nap250

Just noticed this thread 

Sorry haven't  read all the thread, 

Thought to chime in here regarding the black side bar, most of you are probably not old enough to remember black and white and early colour TV 

 

On those TVs we had dial and later on digital - vertical and horizontal picture adjustment 

Go to far in any direction when adjusting and the black bar would apear 

 

Based on that memory my recommendation is to have the horizontal and vertical setting checked

In newer TVs its probably fixed in the central position by resistors and capacitors or a screw adjustment on the PCB and if they are worn then it may be the cause 

 

Just saying that it may be an easy fix and as these TVs were built to a high quality level then this solution may be possible 

 

 

Edited by Full Range
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You could adjust the vertical / horizontal hold on CRT displays because all you were doing was fine tuning the screens refresh rate that would drift out of whack.

 

LCD/LED and Plasma all refresh left to right if memory serves me correct, if there is any way to fix the KURO's Black Band as shown in the original post, it might just be a blown cap or out of spec resistor on the deflection board that's not powering up that portion of the screen.

 

There is a classic tale of this sort of thing happening at the AVS forum back in the mid 90's, where a particular multi tens of thousand dollar CRT PJ [Sony G90 I think] was being diagnosed with thousand dollar+ expensive repair bills, one of the forum members had taught himself board level diagnostics and traced the problem everybody was having to a $0.30c part.

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4 minutes ago, Tweaky said:

You could adjust the vertical / horizontal hold on CRT displays because all you were doing was fine tuning the screens refresh rate that would drift out of whack.

 

LCD/LED and Plasma all refresh left to right if memory serves me correct, if there is any way to fix the KURO's Black Band as shown in the original post, it might just be a blown cap or out of spec resistor on the deflection board that's not powering up that portion of the screen.

 

There is a classic tale of this sort of thing happening at the AVS forum back in the mid 90's, where a particular multi tens of thousand dollar CRT PJ [Sony G90 I think] was being diagnosed with thousand dollar+ expensive repair bills, one of the forum members had taught himself board level diagnostics and traced the problem everybody was having to a $0.30c part.

I recall that but I think the part was in an extremely inaccessible area which meant a lot of other stuff had to be disconnected to get at it. So a lot of the TV,s got binned sady. Hopefully this one can be salvaged

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The biggest bargin (relatively but still cheaper than 65inch LG OLED now) I have had is buying a runout top of range KD-75X9400C early last year.  It has everything you need for now and the future, the picture quality is out of this world and I am afraid left my Kuro lying on the floor for 9 months never to be played again.  I have given it to my BIL now.

 

You get what you pay for, and frankly anyone that says their Kuro is still better than the current TOR Sony's is in denial :)

 

Personally I would not buy an LG anything - If you really think OLED is better tech than top of range LED - wait a few months for Sony's OLED. Same LG panel for sure - but superior Sony processing.  

 

cheers

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I see so many old Pioneer Kuro tvs still going at clients houses.
They were awesome in their day and last a long time but so did Sony CRT's many years ago.
They have pretty good blacks and nice colours but lack drastically in resolution.
Im sorry but they just don't compare to modern TVs.
The biggest downfall in newer panels is the image processing and that you really should get the panel professionally set up to get the right colours and contrast etc.
HDR also blows away old pioneer panels.
Just my own opinions!


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35 minutes ago, Blade74 said:

I see so many old Pioneer Kuro tvs still going at clients houses.
They were awesome in their day and last a long time but so did Sony CRT's many years ago.
They have pretty good blacks and nice colours but lack drastically in resolution.
Im sorry but they just don't compare to modern TVs.
The biggest downfall in newer panels is the image processing and that you really should get the panel professionally set up to get the right colours and contrast etc.
HDR also blows away old pioneer panels.
Just my own opinions!


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Who would you recommend to set up the panel properly?

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Buy the meter and software and do it yourself.....link to whats involved below -walk through test and calibration procedure.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322

 

Meter - Xrite i1 Display Pro - AUS $359

https://imagescience.com.au/products/calibrators/calibrator-recommendations

 

ChromaPure Standard calibration software.US $200 current version also calibrates HDR Support for UHD Rec. 2020 and HDR10 EOTF

http://www.chromapure.com/products-chromapure.asp

 

I find it best to use a basic test disc to first calibrate by eye, brightness and contrast from your main disc player, then do all other measurements from the PC, as all the other test patterns are built into the software......you can download a basic test disc from the AVS forum, then just burn it to disc.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/948496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html

 

 

Edited by Tweaky
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6 hours ago, Tweaky said:

Buy the meter and software and do it yourself.....link to whats involved below -walk through test and calibration procedure.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322

 

Meter - Xrite i1 Display Pro - AUS $359

https://imagescience.com.au/products/calibrators/calibrator-recommendations

 

ChromaPure Standard calibration software.US $200 current version also calibrates HDR Support for UHD Rec. 2020 and HDR10 EOTF

http://www.chromapure.com/products-chromapure.asp

 

I find it best to use a basic test disc to first calibrate by eye, brightness and contrast from your main disc player, then do all other measurements from the PC, as all the other test patterns are built into the software......you can download a basic test disc from the AVS forum, then just burn it to disc.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/948496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html

 

 

Given this is a one time thing, care to lend it to us. Will pay of course.

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Quite often you can get half way there by looking for recommendations on the net.
Eg like this one for an oled:
http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/b6/settings

But you can find ISF calibrators online to do it for you if you're willing to spend the money.

Or as tweaky has mentioned get a meter and do it yourself.



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7 hours ago, Tweaky said:

Buy the meter and software and do it yourself.....link to whats involved below -walk through test and calibration procedure.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322

 

Meter - Xrite i1 Display Pro - AUS $359

https://imagescience.com.au/products/calibrators/calibrator-recommendations

 

ChromaPure Standard calibration software.US $200 current version also calibrates HDR Support for UHD Rec. 2020 and HDR10 EOTF

http://www.chromapure.com/products-chromapure.asp

 

I find it best to use a basic test disc to first calibrate by eye, brightness and contrast from your main disc player, then do all other measurements from the PC, as all the other test patterns are built into the software......you can download a basic test disc from the AVS forum, then just burn it to disc.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/948496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html

 

 

By the time the gear is costed out it may be cheaper to pay someone for an hour of their time. 

 

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Yeah, but just because you get a TV / PJ / Monitor calibrated, doesn't mean it's going to stay that way.

PJ's especially, colours change over time as the lamp ages, Plasmas and now OLED's will also [any screen that is capable of suffering burn-in], maybe not by as much as a PJ's lamp, it depends on how bright it is being run at, and I suspect the high brightness needed for UHD playback will certainly have a effect on a panels ability to reproduce correct colours long term, that's a big unknown.

 

I initially bought my meter to calibrate my PC monitors for Photographic work, I then bought the software that would allow me to calibrate my TV and PJ, that 4 displays , and they have all been calibrated several times since I purchased the gear, which ends up a mere fraction of what it would of cost if I were to pay somebody to come out and do it for me on all those pieces of kit.

 

Only you know if it would be worth it for you to purchase the gear and do it yourself, it's a option anyway.

 

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On 04/04/2017 at 3:41 PM, Full Range said:

@Nap250

Just noticed this thread 

Sorry haven't  read all the thread, 

Thought to chime in here regarding the black side bar, most of you are probably not old enough to remember black and white and early colour TV 

 

On those TVs we had dial and later on digital - vertical and horizontal picture adjustment 

Go to far in any direction when adjusting and the black bar would apear 

 

Based on that memory my recommendation is to have the horizontal and vertical setting checked

In newer TVs its probably fixed in the central position by resistors and capacitors or a screw adjustment on the PCB and if they are worn then it may be the cause 

 

Just saying that it may be an easy fix and as these TVs were built to a high quality level then this solution may be possible 

 

 

Heard back from the repairer and it's not fixable. 

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On 04/04/2017 at 7:20 PM, metal beat said:

The biggest bargin (relatively but still cheaper than 65inch LG OLED now) I have had is buying a runout top of range KD-75X9400C early last year.  It has everything you need for now and the future, the picture quality is out of this world and I am afraid left my Kuro lying on the floor for 9 months never to be played again.  I have given it to my BIL now.

 

You get what you pay for, and frankly anyone that says their Kuro is still better than the current TOR Sony's is in denial :)

 

Personally I would not buy an LG anything - If you really think OLED is better tech than top of range LED - wait a few months for Sony's OLED. Same LG panel for sure - but superior Sony processing.  

 

cheers

I couldn't wait and ended up going with the Sony X9300D today. Substantially cheaper and given the level of uncertainty around LG and OLED (the sales guy had  stated they had a lot more returned on the OLED). At the price it was a no brainer today and if I am disappointed it can go to the parents in a few years time. 

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24 minutes ago, Nap250 said:

I couldn't wait and ended up going with the Sony X9300D today. Substantially cheaper and given the level of uncertainty around LG and OLED (the sales guy had  stated they had a lot more returned on the OLED). At the price it was a no brainer today and if I am disappointed it can go to the parents in a few years time. 

 

Cool, I hope you enjoy it.    Could not go 75 inch with the X9400D?

 

only reason I mention is the 9400D is FALD where the 9300D is edge backlight.  

 

 

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