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Great tubes at great prices (NOS tubes)


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On 09/12/2021 at 8:48 PM, xlr8or said:

 

More spread, warmth, body and dynamics to the music. It's a different sound compared to the mC1 Blackburn beauties. Both are excellent tubes. I suspect like so many of the other tube recommendations that have been given out we won't hear back. 🤣

Bit the bullet and bought the last pair after two weeks of price negotiation. I have high hopes with your recommendation and I did a little bit of research on them. Would be my first great 12AX7 if they arrive safely, fingers cross!

 

 

GE Kenrad long charcoal pewter plate 12AX7 dimple D foil getter - 1.jpg

GE Kenrad long charcoal pewter plate 12AX7 dimple D foil getter - 2.jpg

GE Kenrad long charcoal pewter plate 12AX7 dimple D foil getter - 3.jpg

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On 22/12/2021 at 9:12 PM, xlr8or said:

 

Yep - send it back. That seller has sold many and I mean many AVO and Taylor valve testers over the last 15 years. He acquired a huge lot of left over valve testers from AU defence. Something like 200+ units.

 

Spoke to the fella on the phone. Wow, what a total treasure he is.

 

He has a few AVO testers available but this was the only Taylor he had, so couldn't give me an alternate unit.

 

He's tested and replicated the issue on the Taylor I returned to him. There were a couple of dry joints as I suspected. He has pulled the rotary selector mechanisms apart and cleaned everything (I could have done it myself, but he was insistent that I don't try to fix it and to send it back) and now says the unit is behaving as expected with none of the previous issues.

 

He still gave me the offer of a refund or to accept the tester back. I've agreed to have him send the unit back to me.

 

I asked what valves he had that I might buy so it covers some of the mucking around costs. He's sending me a couple of 12AX7 tubes to try something different out in my pre-amp. They are on a sale-or-return basis with nothing up-front. There are not many people left like this guy and more is the pity.

 

Tel

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On the lighter side of the tube conundrum--maybe consider what you are looking for in the items-especially Driver/ Pre/etc  types.

 

--some light reading of the attached considerations may help-no 🙄?  

 

Good luck!

 

Willco

12au7stevehoffmanforum.jpg_html.jpeg.bf7e1d76ae4bbf389bd3e97df1c67644.jpeg

 

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2 minutes ago, Willco said:

On the lighter side of the tube conundrum--maybe consider what you are looking for in the items-especially Driver/ Pre/etc  types.

 

--some light reading of the attached considerations may help-no 🙄?  

 

Good luck!

 

Willco

12au7stevehoffmanforum.jpg_html.jpeg.bf7e1d76ae4bbf389bd3e97df1c67644.jpeg

 

Happy New Year Wilco. 
 

Do you have the same for ECC 83 tubes?

 

cheers,

Peter

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55 minutes ago, PKay said:

Happy New Year Wilco. 
 

Do you have the same for ECC 83 tubes?

 

cheers,

Peter

 

To be honest, there are enough examples in that table that even I can tell they aren't all correct - for me that is, at least.  That's the whole problem with those vague non-technical subjective words.  They mean different things to different people.

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2 hours ago, PKay said:

Happy New Year Wilco. 
 

Do you have the same for ECC 83 tubes?

 

cheers,

Peter

Hello, Yes I knew someone might ask that!--sorry the Site I saw the Dialog boxes I cannot locate nor find--yes as far as I recall it covered all or nearly all relevant Tube Items.

Sorry cannot be more helpful--good hunting!

 

Oh! and Happy NY to your good self😃

 

Willco

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23 minutes ago, Willco said:

Like I said -make of them as you will--but the different model #'s etc and opinions I found to have some merit if searching for same😐

 

Willco

 

 

Yeah, not having a dig at you at all.   It's a fairly inherent problem with this tube rolling game though.  Hard to use other people's experiences because of it.

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Hi Everyone,

 

Finally received the x4 NOS Valvo E80CC’s (12AX7 derivative) from a seller on FB in Norway.

 

Apart from the long wait with postage, really happy with their condition (they look brand new) & their sound so far with only 1-2 hours on them is articulate, lively, fast & big.

 

I look forward to see what they sound like with 50+ hours on them.

 

Cheers all

Matt

 

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13 minutes ago, mattjtaylor2809 said:

Yes, my apologies 12AU7 derivatives replacing some RCA’s.

 

My 12AX7’s are Telefunken of which I’m looking for another pair.

 

Cheers all

Matt

Here, some guidance from the expert in the house:

Good luck!

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I think I need a replacement tube for my Cary preamp. May I have some advice please?

 

Details: I'm getting hiss/ high noise floor from one channel of my preamp. Left channel is hissy. When I swap over the Left and Right outputs in my pre-amp's output interconnects, the problem shifts to the right channel.

 

Maybe it's a tube problem; I've checked the internet and came across this:

 

Quote


Preamp Tubes.  Preamp tubes usually cause problems through noise or microphonics.  If noise, you will hear hiss, crackling, popping or similar issues.  If you hear squeal, hum or feedback, it is typically a microphonic tube.  Noise from microphonic tubes will typically increase with a volume increase.

To diagnose which tube is bad, if you have a two channel amp, the most important thing is to determine, if possible, whether the problem is on both channels or just one.  If you can tell that it is in both channels (even if only slightly on one channel), it is most likely V1, which is common to both channels.  A noisy or microphonic tube in this position will affect the entire amp.  Microphonic or noisy tubes in several other positions may not be audible at all.  You can try tapping the tubes like you did the power tubes and see if the problem worsens.  It is normal to hear a slight ring when you tap on preamp tubes.  This test is only to see if the identified problem changes when tapping.  This test is NOT outcome determinative.

If the problem is only on one channel or the other, you’ll know which tube is the problem.  If it’s only on the clean channel, it’s usually the tube dedicated to that channel.  If it’s on the crunch channel, then you've narrowed it down even further.  NOTE:  V1 usually is the culprit.  Even if you don’t hear it on both channels, you should check V1 anyway.  Tube problems are much more dramatic on V1 than any other position.  When you think you have determined the culprit, put the amp on standby and change that tube.  Retest.

NOTE:  It is always advisable to change preamp tubes one at a time.  It is a good idea to keep at least one known good preamp tube for this purpose.  Then you will know for sure if you have found the problem.  Having a know, working reference tube (or better yet, a set) makes life much easier.  PS - it's helpful to number the tubes before testing.  People OFTEN get them confused and simply keep moving the bad tube down the line, thereby mistakenly thinking it's not a tube problem.  So change them one at a time.  If it doesn't resolve the issue, put the tube back into the position it came out of, then move to the next tube.  It'll save you a lot of headache. . .

 

This is the first time I have encountered the terms "clean channel" and "crunch channel". Unsure if it's relevant to fixing my preamp's problem?

 

https://www.caryaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/SLP-2002.pdf

 

I've never lifted the lid of the preamp. It's a Cary SLP 2002 imported from Canada and serviced at Cary in North Carolina on its way to Australia, back in 2008. Whatever the opposite of a tube roller is, that's been me. A "set and forgetter"?  Here it is, ahead of a clean.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DSCF4286.jpg

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1 hour ago, ThirdDrawerDown said:

I think I need a replacement tube for my Cary preamp. May I have some advice please?

 

Details: I'm getting hiss/ high noise floor from one channel of my preamp. Left channel is hissy. When I swap over the Left and Right outputs in my pre-amp's output interconnects, the problem shifts to the right channel.

 

Maybe it's a tube problem; I've checked the internet and came across this:

 

 

This is the first time I have encountered the terms "clean channel" and "crunch channel". Unsure if it's relevant to fixing my preamp's problem?

 

https://www.caryaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/SLP-2002.pdf

 

I've never lifted the lid of the preamp. It's a Cary SLP 2002 imported from Canada and serviced at Cary in North Carolina on its way to Australia, back in 2008. Whatever the opposite of a tube roller is, that's been me. A "set and forgetter"?  Here it is, ahead of a clean.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DSCF4286.jpg

DSCF4290.jpg

DSCF4291.jpg

DSCF4293.jpg

DSCF4294.jpg

 

Swap the left channel tubes over to the right channel and vice versa. This should tell you if the hiss sound is related to a particular tube.

 

Edit: Try swapping the EH 6922's first and let us know how you go.

 

Screenshot_20220103-232417_Samsung Internet.jpg

Edited by xlr8or
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On 02/01/2022 at 8:17 PM, aussievintage said:

Just noticed some 6B4Gs for sale by this seller  https://www.ebay.com.au/str/fng2u  6B4G is an octal directly heated triode with same characteristics as a 2A3 but 6volt filament..  Lots of other valves here as well.  I have not dealt with this seller however so judge for yourself.

 

1 x 6B4G JAN-CKR-Ken-Rad Tube Black Glass Tested READ

 

Nice find on the 6.3v 6B4G's. Have bought from this seller before on several occasions - no problems whatsoever. He sells affordable tubes at good prices. 👍

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8 hours ago, Willco said:

On the lighter side of the tube conundrum--maybe consider what you are looking for in the items-especially Driver/ Pre/etc  types.

 

--some light reading of the attached considerations may help-no 🙄?  

 

Good luck!

 

Willco

12au7stevehoffmanforum.jpg_html.jpeg.bf7e1d76ae4bbf389bd3e97df1c67644.jpeg

 

 

That guide was written by Brendan Biever from Tubeworld (now called TubeExpress) a few years ago. There is similar info found on Brent Jessee's AudioTubes site. Look at the link below under the sub heading titled "OK, SO TELL ME HOW THEY SOUND!" 

 

http://www.audiotubes.com/12ax7.htm

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9 hours ago, xlr8or said:

 

Nice find on the 6.3v 6B4G's. Have bought from this seller before on several occasions - no problems whatsoever. He sells affordable tubes at good prices. 👍

 

Thanks for this info.  Might be time to consider a couple more spares for my system ...

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Nice bargain going here for 3 beautiful sounding black smoked glass envelope brown micanol base strongly tested relabelled Tung-Sol 6SL7's from the 1950's. The price listed is per tube. Excellent value ladies and gents. Any Willsenton R8 owner would benefit greatly from this acquisition.

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Vintage-Radiocoin-Smoked-Glass-Tung-Sol-6SL7-Vacuum-Tube-/403391882480

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Quote

Try swapping the EH 6922's first and let us know how you go

 

OK. The Left-hand EH6922 swapped into the right-hand channel resulted in the high noise floor shifted to the right-hand speaker. (This is like the sound you get in between radio stations when moving up and down the radio dial). Aha! I thought, a faulty EH 6922!

 

Not so fast Max, said 99. After about five minutes, a startling crackling racket from the left speaker. Last time I had that noise, it was a valve failure on the power amp's input side. The noise was followed by silence from the left-hand speaker.  That silence is due to the power amp blowing a fuse. It has two fuses, one each for left and right channel.

 

Please note that when I've been referring to "channels" and "speakers" it's been to the horns, which cover the sound above 300Hz.  Below 300Hz is handled by bass units driven by a separate amplifier. I was hearing the problem only in the horn part of the left-hand channel, and I was assuming that the problem affected both speakers in the left-hand channel, ie horn unit and bass unit. That might be wrong, in fact I now think it is wrong, and that the problem lies in the power amplifier driving the horns:

 

2022 Jan TDD.jpg

 

 

OK, so the the left-hand channel's horn was dead due to the blown fuse in the power amplifier Cary 120S. I went ahead anyway and swapped the two EH6922's in the preamplifier back and forth several times. Both valves performed equally well in the right channel - there was no noticeable high noise floor from the right-hand channels' horn. Also, the bass speaker in the left-hand channel operated just fine. (Bass was fine and consistent in both channels throughout all my swapping).

 

I turned to the 120S. There are four input tubes, being pairs of left and right, and front and back. I swapped left with right and back again, and front and back (and back again). No changes in sound from the right hand channel's horn. So I think the input valves of the power amplifier are OK. Which leaves the output octet.

 

My next step is to replace the blown fuse in the left-hand channel of the power amplifier.

 

Logically I should check the quartet which drives the 120S left-hand channel for the horn. I just find it a bit strange that the high noise floor problem shifted to the right-hand channel's horn for a few minutes when I swapped the two EH 6922s in the Cary preamp, prior to the fuse blowing in the left-hand channel of the power amp. (Or maybe I was hearing things)

 

Edited by ThirdDrawerDown
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I don’t have any constructive feedback for the issue, however I can commiserate. Worst part about troubleshooting issues such as these is that, for me at least, is I start doubting what I’m hearing. Leaving the system for a fortnight and coming back does wonders for that though. 


Good luck :D 

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