The Power Line Conditioner Thread

[dhan]

Hi, I am a newbie, care to explain what is AB and the orb?  ;)

 

Takes time to do proper AB!

The last time I just hook up digital to another socket, there is some improvement but some negative as well due to different wall socket, where one was inferior to the second.

 

The Orb I have is a two-in-one, remember? So no need another one already.

I decide on this rather than two completely separate Orb, because of cost savings.

I figure eventually if I want to pay for two separate high end distributor like two SA ($20k range?), I can evaluate again.

[Quest88]

Hi, I am a newbie, care to explain what is AB and the orb?  ;)

 

AB refers to AB testing.. basically a method of testing by which there is a baseline control sample.

 

The orb I am referring to is a power distributor.

http://orb-audio.jp/english/frame-kyoto.htm

[Quest88]

I saw 4 outlets on 1 side of the ORB.

I assume there are another 4 more on the other side, so total is 8 outlets.

The PCs going in is 1 front and 1 back or both same side?

$20K = 2 x RLS 240X.

2 X RLS 240 cost a lot lesser.

Correct, total 8 outlet. PCs going in is two at same side.

 

Stole this picture from online.. the two inputs are from the right. top input only connect to the top 4 output.

 

[Doggie Howser]

So it's two distributors in one? One for each line?

[Quest88]

So it's two distributors in one? One for each line?

yup.

[zaek]

yup.

 

Quest, how's your impression so far on this little beast? How does it compare to Oyaide R1? :D

[Quest88]

Quest, how's your impression so far on this little beast? How does it compare to Oyaide R1? :D

You mean comparing Oyaide R1 to Orb wall socket right?

 

 

I think it's a preference thing. Both have a different sound but currently my preference is for the Orb..

Just recalling from memory, I feel the Orb wall socket has better presence and weight which is sort of usual with gold products I've tried. R1 is a more 'clean' type of sound though I think it also does something to the mids.

 

The Oyaide carbon fibre wall plate makes the sound smoother, more organic and cleans up more on the mid/highs. It's also well engineered.

The Orb wall plate sounds more dynamic with better bass control, and more heavy/weighty, but I felt the mid/high smoothness is abit less than the Oyaide.

Not sure if either needs any 'settling down time' which may have affected my evaluation. It's tough to do AB testing on such things..

 

Incidently the Orb wall socket is cheaper than the R1, but the wall plate is more expensive than the Oyaide carbon fibre wall plate.

Since I have a spare R1 now, you can always borrow to try..

 

The Orb Kyoto referred in the above threads is a different thing altogether as it's a distributor.

[zaek]

You mean comparing Oyaide R1 to Orb wall socket right?

 

 

I think it's a preference thing. Both have a different sound but currently my preference is for the Orb..

Just recalling from memory, I feel the Orb wall socket has better presence and weight. R1 is a more 'clean' type of sound though I think it also does something to the mids.

 

The Oyaide carbon fibre wall plate makes the sound smoother, more organic and cleans up more on the mid/highs. It's also well engineered.

The Orb wall plate sounds more dynamic with better bass control, and more heavy/weighty, but I felt the mid/high smoothness is abit less than the Oyaide.

Not sure if either needs any 'settling down time' which may have affected my evaluation. It's tough to do AB testing on such things..

 

Incidently the Orb wall socket is cheaper than the R1, but the wall plate is more expensive than the Oyaide carbon fibre wall plate.

Since I have a spare R1 now, you can always borrow to try..

 

The Orb Kyoto referred in the above threads is a different thing altogether as it's a distributor.

 

wow, good sharing. I believe your Orb receptacles will need time to "settle/burn-in" too. Was just curious how the well-known R1 receptacle fare with this orb receptacle. Maybe I will buy one in future to try since you mention that it is cheaper than R1.

Will be waiting for your final verdict on this receptacle after burn-in. :)

 

As for the orb distributor, it is another league from the MTB-6 R1. But do share your impression after the little beast settled down.

Your purchase really got alot of bros here excited.

:P

[Quest88]

wow, good sharing. I believe your Orb receptacles will need time to "settle/burn-in" too. Was just curious how the well-known R1 receptacle fare with this orb receptacle. Maybe I will buy one in future to try since you mention that it is cheaper than R1.

Will be waiting for your final verdict on this receptacle after burn-in. :)

 

As for the orb distributor, it is another league from the MTB-6 R1. But do share your impression after the little beast settled down.

Your purchase really got alot of bros here excited.

:P

haha, can join me next time for such AB..

i had a bro here join in for the R1 vs Orb comparison, and both of us bought orb receptacles after hearing it against the R1.

like i said, i do think it's a preference. just like how wattgate 381 is preferred against R1 by a few bros here.

anyway receptacles are cheap in comparison to most of our other tweaks. no harm to change back if not happy.

 

i already went 2 orb receptacles.. was living with 1 R1 and 1 Orb for a few weeks to trial either way.

both were using different wall plates unfortunately, but i got a decent idea.

 

the settling down i was referring to was really on the wall plate, rather than the socket. not sure of my evalulation as i did a really quick AB testing on those.

[hotbird]

As for the orb distributor, it is another league from the MTB-6 R1. But do share your impression after the little beast settled down.

 

It seems that people do not know how to improve the performances of the RTP-1 Ultimate, but I will teach you a few things that

people in the Acoustic Revive forums are already doing.

 

1)    Put an Acoustic Revive Quartz Underboard TB-38 under the RTP-1

      Acoustic Revive made a special size one just for this

 

http://www.acoustic-revive.com/english/tb38/tb38_01.html

There's a special version with the top board made of hickory wood that just came out

http://www.acoustic-revive.com/underboard/tb-38h.html

 

2)  Fill up all unused sockets with the Acoustic Revive CS-2F Stabilizer

http://www.acoustic-revive.com/english/cs2/cs2_01.html

 

3) Place an Audio Replas Noise Isolation Cover at the IEC-inlet to the RTP-1

    That is the strange circular ring at the left-hand side of the RTP-1 in the above picture.

    It can be fitted to the RTP-1 by removing the 2 screws to the IEC outlet, placing this on top and then fastening it again with another set of screws

http://www.audio-replas.com/html_eng/plate.html

 

4)  Place a clear RIQ Quartz Insulator near the IEC outlet

http://www.acoustic-revive.com/english/riq5010/riq5010_01.html

 

5)  Put Audio Replas outlet Isolation Cover on the used outlets

 

 

http://www.pc-audio-fan.com/news/audio/20101124_2029/

 

I dare all current owners or potential users to use all the above methods which I am currently using  ;D

You will get a very low noise level, very lively dynamic contrasts from the combination.

And then compare it to ORB  ;D

Frankly, if you look at the design of the ORB, one needs a very large space to lay out all the power cords, and if you don't have

much room on the floor, it will not be practical to use it. Furthermore it needs to be placed far away from the equipment due

to the space it uses, so you will need longer power cords$ too  ;)

 

[Quest88]

I dare all current owners or potential users to use all the above methods which I am currently using  ;D

And then compare it to ORB  ;D

Frankly, if you look at the design of the ORB, one needs a very large space to lay out all the power cords, and if you don't have

much room on the floor, it will not be practical to use it

To each his own.. I never said the Orb was the best. Anyway, some simple comments on your post:

 

1. On the layout - Personally I went for Kyoto because of its side layout because it induces less stress on the cable, rather than pointing upwards like most distributors, and I do have the floor space. I did not need longer power cords.. some people lay it on its side (like facing the bottom/spikes against a wall) so that it takes up less space, but you're right it's not for everyone.

 

Orb Kamakuta has a standard layout like the acoustic revive. The lower end Orb strips are also like this.

 

 

2. I am not doubting that all the methods you use to increase the performance of the acoustic revive work, but can't you use some of these on whatever distributor you use anyway?

 

Not all of us can home trial all these products together at a go. Buying so many tweaks without being certain of the final result is certainly a risk factor that can't be discounted.

 

hotbird, maybe you want to home trial the Orb Kyoto and let me know how far is the gap between your fully tweaked out Acoustic Revive? I could only compare vs the base which is not quite fair given the price difference. After that maybe I can explore how to increase the performance of the Orb. :)

[hotbird]

To each his own.. but just some simple comments:

1. On the layout - Personally I went for Kyoto because of its side layout because it induces less stress on the cable, rather than pointing upwards like most distributors, and I do have the floor space. You're right it's not for everyone.

 

I place all my equipment on a 6 tier Master Reference Finite Elemente rack, cords pointing all upwards is the way to go for most, I really don't know what stress there is ???

I find more stress just looking at how the power cords are twisted to fit the configuration of the ORB Kyoto, it is just not natural flowing  ;)

Yours is really a very peculiar requirement ;D

 

2. I am not doubting that all the methods you use to increase the performance of the acoustic revive work, but can't you use some of these on whatever distributor you use anyway?

Not all of us can home trial all these products together at a go. Buying so many tweaks without being certain of the final result is certainly a risk factor that can't be discounted.

hotbird, maybe you want to home trial the Orb Kyoto and let me know how far is the gap between your fully tweaked out Acoustic Revive? I could only compare vs the base which is not quite fair given the price difference. After that maybe I can explore how to increase the performance of the Orb. :)

 

I do a lot of research myself on the Japanese forums, with google translator you can catch what they are saying..

These tweaks don't win award just because of the hype, but because they really work.

I am quite loyal to the range of Acoustic Revive tweaks, so I am just sharing with others the things that one can do if you follow the line of thought with their followers in the forums.

Furthermore, I don't have space for an Orb Kyoto layout and cords long enough to reach the equipment from the outlets, and in addition I hide the stuff behind the rack in a narrow space just enough for the size of a TB-38 quartz underboard  and RTP1 ;D

[Quest88]

I place all my equipment on a 6 tier Master Reference Finite Elemente rack, cords pointing all upwards is the way to go for most, I really don't what stress there is ???

Yours is really a very peculiar requirement ;D

You're right I have a unique requirement, because my equipment are now purely on 1 tier. So there is no requirement to bend upwards at all. But if I were on 2 or 3 tier, I'd still like this as I only need 1 major bend (not counting the turn into the equipment IEC).

 

This is compared to a 'standard upward facing distributor' - if your cords face upwards, it sags/bends downwards with the weight of excess length, then bends upwards again to go into your equipment. Doesn't this arrangement add some stress if your power cords are heavy? Of course, those who have light power cords like the ASI would not feel any difference..

 

I guess since you have a 6 tier rack, it's not the same as your cords would be more likely to go purely upwards if they have not much excess length.

 

I do a lot of research myself on the Japanese forums, with google translator you can catch what they are saying..

These tweaks don't win award just because of the hype, but because they really work.

I am quite loyal to the range of Acoustic Revive tweaks, so I am just bring out the things that one can do if you follow the line of thought with their followers in the forums

Sure, I too own some of their tweaks which I do play around with once in awhile. It's good of you to share your findings, and gives us ideas of how to improve the performance of our existing distributors.

 

But like I mentioned earlier, most of us would never be able to hear a fully tweaked out Acoustic Revive before buying, whereas you can home trial a orb kyoto.

[hotbird]

This is compared to a 'standard upward facing distributor' - if your cords face upwards, it sags/bends downwards with the weight of excess length, then bends upwards again to go into your equipment. Doesn't this arrangement add some stress if your power cords are heavy? Of course, those who have light power cords like the ASI would not feel any difference..

 

I am using all Acrolink Mexcel power cords, they are not that heavy, just not so flexible, so even if I use a horizontal layout, it will still be more stressful to bend them in all sorts of directions like the Kyoto layout ;D

[zaek]

haha, can join me next time for such AB..

 

 

if you dont mind bringing a newbie with you, I definitely am interested to go. :D

[zaek]

It seems that people do not know how to improve the performances of the RTP-1 Ultimate, but I will teach you a few things that

people in the Acoustic Revive are already doing.

 

Wow, lots of tweaks which are still new to me. Power!

 

[Quest88]

I am using all Acrolink Mexcel power cords, they are not that heavy, just not so flexible, so even if I use a horizontal layout, it will still be more stressful to bend them in all sorts of directions like the Kyoto layout ;D

Like I said, to each his own.. I don't have to twist my cables in this layout. Everyone has a different layout and has to decide which is better for them. In any case, like I mentioned as well, Orb has vertical layouts available too.

 

if you dont mind bringing a newbie with you, I definitely am interested to go. :D

Nowhere to bring la.. I primarily do my shootouts at home unless home trial not available. :)

[hotbird]

Like I said, to each his own.. I don't have to twist my cables in this layout. Everyone has a different layout and has to decide which is better for them. In any case, like I mentioned as well, Orb has vertical layouts available too.

 

Picture please, would like to see how easy your Kyoto config is....a picture says a thousand words ;D

I did google, but could only find one where only 1 side of the Kyto is used (such a waste when it is a duo distributor) ;)

One way to optimise it, I guess is to place it directly under the rack so that the power cords can run out from both left and right side of the rack provided it can be slided under it  :D

But that will hide the beauty of the Kyoto product, it is indeed a nice piece of art, like the original Shunyata Hydra power distributor in an attractive Corian box with polished granite end panels

[Quest88]

Picture please, would like to see how easy your Kyoto config is....a picture says a thousand words ;D

I did google, but could only find one where only 1 side of the Kyto is used (such a waste when it is a duo distributor) ;)

It's actually easy to visualise using the same picture.

My Kyoto is also located similarly next to the platform/rack, similar reason probably, so that the cables can be run under the rack and be concealed.

 

In addition, I have a 2 tier rack on the 'outside' of the speakers which utilizes the other side of the Kyoto.. so in this picture, imagine that they have another rack on the right of the right speaker. That side of my Kyoto only connects my PC and DAC.

[hotbird]

It's actually easy to visualise using the same picture.

My Kyoto is also located similarly next to the platform/rack, similar reason probably, so that the cables can be run under the rack and be concealed.

 

So I guess the cables that are under the rack will need to twist at near 90-180 degrees to make a journey to your equipment inlets?

[Quest88]

So I guess the cables that are under the rack will need to twist at near 90-180 degrees to make a journey to your equipment inlets?

I only have one equipment on that single tier rack.. that particular cable goes one big round 270 deg because of the 2m length. It's not a sharp bend in any way though, just going a circle into the input, and it's all running along floor so there is no weight pulling at any one point.

 

I guess I will explore cable lifters at some point..

[chua55]

cheap cable lifter, use the High tension insulators (porcelain type). or can use the cloth hanger.

 

MSI magnetic levitation or Furutech also have.

[bigtree]

Quite surprised to read this in AudioAficionado.org on the pp2000.

 

 

[Quest88]

Quite surprised to read this in AudioAficionado.org on the pp2000.

Shows the company's responsiveness though.. :) And also just shows a failed sensor rather than anything else.

[chua55]

how much would a QX2 and QBase cost and who sells it.

 

some bro birthday coming on 19th nov. more birthday gift ?