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Still waiting for this arse of a Plumber, even though he has rung me to say he will be here by 3.00....it's now 3.45...surprise, surprise.

 

I've just finish the calibration

It doesn't look at all bad, and for my first attempt at calibrating this TV I'm pretty please with it, as always there's room for improvement.

I think the next move will be to calibrate to BT.1886, as looking at the end result of my Gamma calibration, it naturally follows the BT.1886 spec.

I've made a calibration report, that hopefully you will be able to open and read....sorry that I forgot to do some pre cal results on some of the calibration aspects, I'm still getting to know this new version of ChromaPure that I'm using.

Anyway, I'll sit down and do some serious dissection of where improvements can be made......Wow, Plumbers arrived.!!

Panasonic 65EX780a Calibration report.pdf

 

I can't believe it, sat at home all day and it took the plumber about 3 minutes to find and sort out the problem , a blocked water filter....didn't know that tap had one built in...Oh well, it over now.

A trip down to the bottle shop I think is in order to celebrate the calibration.

I'll spend the next few hours copying out all the settings for you....They say it is seldom as good copying somebody elses settings, but it should be no harm done as there is always the reset button for each section you will be changing.

The Black levels are a LOT better now.....but I think that the BT.1886 could make them better still.

 

NOOOOOOOOO !

I've just come back from the bottle shop and found that every single adjustment I have made has been wiped, and is now back to how to was originally.

How the hell this has happened I don't know, but as you would expect, I'm not a happy camper ATM

It means I have to do the whole frigging calibration again from scratch :(

 

Oh man, do I feel like a idiot.:oops:

I didn't realize that when you switch from AV to TV it changes from the input you were calibrating, to a none calibrated one.

I hadn't lost the calibration after all, it's just currently only available on the AV input :blush:.....thank God for that , I didn't fancy another 7 hours calibrating again [I'll be able to do the next calibration a lot quicker now anyway]

 

EDIT: Currently sitting back watching 'The Force Awakens', and quite frankly it's WOW!

I just saved myself at least least 4K buying this TV over a 65" Panasonic  EZ 1000 OLED....the difference, honestly, I'm not one to pat myself on the back, but I think I've done a great job at calibrating this TV....It's SO OLED like, it's ridiculous.

You guys that have this TV, that try the settings I'll post in a few hours time are going to be besides yourself's......well, on the caveat that you use this calibration for watching Bluray movies in a, at least semi darkened room ....TIP, try not to have any light's on in the room that are in front of the screen that allow 'you', sitting watching, to be bright enough to cause your reflection on the screen...that would be a deal breaker..........Lights out, with the calibration I'll give you is as 3D as you can get, without actually using the 3D function...and I'm NOT exaggerating!

 

This TV is amazing, it's colour reproduction is pretty much spot on out of the box, rather ironic since it has some of the best CMS controls I've ever come across.

Where it is lacking....well, lacking is being kind, more like BAD, is in it's Grey scale tracking....That's out of the box....you just have to see the difference in my Pre and Post test results with this adjustment.

Once fixed,[And it's ALWAYS this factor that either makes or breaks PQ ],  it's then the WOW! factor hit's.

 

Watch the Force Awakens prior to trying the settings I'll post, watch for gradient's in things like the Sand when she is  sliding down from the crashed Battle cruiser.

Then again once using my settings...there should be a huge difference....far more different colours in the sand than previously perceivable .

It's the little things like that that make the difference.

Actually, if going to use my settings, could you please take Before and After shots....I think it will be interesting to view the results.

Edited by Tweaky
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2 hours ago, Tweaky said:

Still waiting for this arse of a Plumber, even though he has rung me to say he will be here by 3.00....it's now 3.45...surprise, surprise.

 

I've just finish the calibration

It doesn't look at all bad, and for my first attempt at calibrating this TV I'm pretty please with it, as always there's room for improvement.

I think the next move will be to calibrate to BT.1886, as looking at the end result of my Gamma calibration, it naturally follows the BT.1886 spec.

I've made a calibration report, that hopefully you will be able to open and read....sorry that I forgot to do some pre cal results on some of the calibration aspects, I'm still getting to know this new version of ChromaPure that I'm using.

Anyway, I'll sit down and do some serious dissection of where improvements can be made......Wow, Plumbers arrived.!!

Panasonic 65EX780a Calibration report.pdf

 

I can't believe it, sat at home all day and it took the plumber about 3 minutes to find and sort out the problem , a blocked water filter....didn't know that tap had one built in...Oh well, it over now.

A trip down to the bottle shop I think is in order to celebrate the calibration.

I'll spend the next few hours copying out all the settings for you....They say it is seldom as good copying somebody elses settings, but it should be no harm done as there is always the reset button for each section you will be changing.

The Black levels are a LOT better now.....but I think that the BT.1886 could make them better still.

 

NOOOOOOOOO !

I've just come back from the bottle shop and found that every single adjustment I have made has been wiped, and is now back to how to was originally.

How the hell this has happened I don't know, but as you would expect, I'm not a happy camper ATM

It means I have to do the whole frigging calibration again from scratch :(

 

Oh man, do I feel like a idiot.:oops:

I didn't realize that when you switch from AV to TV it changes from the input you were calibrating, to a none calibrated one.

I hadn't lost the calibration after all, it's just currently only available on the AV input :blush:.....thank God for that , I didn't fancy another 7 hours calibrating again [I'll be able to do the next calibration a lot quicker now anyway]

 

EDIT: Currently sitting back watching 'The Force Awakens', and quite frankly it's WOW!

I just saved myself at least least 4K buying this TV over a 65" Panasonic  EZ 1000 OLED....the difference, honestly, I'm not one to pat myself on the back, but I think I've done a great job at calibrating this TV....It's SO OLED like, it's ridiculous.

You guys that have this TV, that try the settings I'll post in a few hours time are going to be besides yourself's......well, on the caveat that you use this calibration for watching Bluray movies in a, at least semi darkened room ....TIP, try not to have any light's on in the room that are in front of the screen that allow 'you', sitting watching, to be bright enough to cause your reflection on the screen...that would be a deal breaker..........Lights out, with the calibration I'll give you is as 3D as you can get, without actually using the 3D function...and I'm NOT exaggerating!

 

This TV is amazing, it's colour reproduction is pretty much spot on out of the box, rather ironic since it has some of the best CMS controls I've ever come across.

Where it is lacking....well, lacking is being kind, more like BAD, is in it's Grey scale tracking....That's out of the box....you just have to see the difference in my Pre and Post test results with this adjustment.

Once fixed,[And it's ALWAYS this factor that either makes or breaks PQ ],  it's then the WOW! factor hit's.

 

Watch the Force Awakens prior to trying the settings I'll post, watch for gradient's in things like the Sand when she is  sliding down from the crashed Battle cruiser.

Then again once using my settings...there should be a huge difference....far more different colours in the sand than previously perceivable .

It's the little things like that that make the difference.

Actually, if going to use my settings, could you please take Before and After shots....I think it will be interesting to view the results.

there is a setting that allows to save to all inputs 

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I haven't posted the settings yet {I just finished typing them out], just my calibration results.

Here are my settings.:ohmy:

 

Calibration of Panasonic 65EX780a [65EX750].... All settings given should be appropriate for 58"/65"/75" screens

These Calibration settings were made for a viewing of the TV where no light reflections would be hitting the screen.
A MOVIE BUFF's SETTING if you would want to call it.
I have it calibrated at 124cd/m2 light output, which is slightly above the 120 norm, but well below the Max that you can get away with..150cd/m2...it's this lower setting that will give you the OLED look without the $$ expenditure.

[RE: You [Hopefully] won't see the viewer [YOU] reflected on the screen glass]
And basically for playing back Bluray Discs....not for other sources ...if using a Panasonic UB4000 4K disc player or it's like, the TV will automatically Upscale the 1080p Bluray to 4K...the calibration settings given below will only make the upscaled image look better.

 

Best case scenario is to have any lamp / light in the room coming from Behind the TV...true Backlighting.

 

OK, we have got that out of the way, some other settings in the main menu that will make this calibration work for all....well hopefully
Your viewing experience might differ from mine [well it's my screen that has been calibrated...so a bit obvious IMHO that results might not be exactly the same for your screen if copying the settings]


The Calibration is of a adjustment of the True Cinema preset, not a custom setting....too prolonged a reason for a explanation as of why, but trust me, this is the best scenario.

You want to select AV as input for your base,rather than TV.

In the Main Menu selections...settings should be as below for each.
Viewing mode= True Cinema
Backlight= 22
Contrast = 90
Brightness = 0
Colour = 50
Tint = 0
Sharpness = 0
Colour Temp= Warm 2
Vivid Colour= Off
Colour Remaster = Off
Adaptive Backlighting = OFF [Could be used later...personal preference]
Noise Reduction = off
MPEG Reduction = Off
Resolution remaster= Off
Dynamic Range Remaster = off
Intelligent Frame Creation= Min/mid...up to you...test it.
Clear Motion= Off

ADVANCED SETTINGS
Contrast =Off
Colour Gamut = REC 709
Gamma = 2.2...Why? because it gives the most 3 dimensional picture presentation, without needing 3D spec's....you'll understand one you see it in action, it's amazing.

 

OK, That's the Basic menu set....you might want to set Gaming mode to ON....I did.

 

WHITE BALANCE...Whooo....In all honesty, this is the MOST important setting

It's also called Gray Scale Tracking....it adjusts the B&W settings of the TV which the colour portion get's layered on top of.
Everything else, adjustment wise, is built on top of these settings.

It's what can make or break a TV....get it wrong and the TV will suck, get it right, and it's a OMG! situation.
The difference is truly profound.
It's also tied in with Gamma...but that's getting ahead of ourselves.

Anyway.
Here are my tested White Balance settings which you will only be able to get at via 'Advanced Settings'

There are two layers to the White Balance settings...the first will be obvious, so here they are.
R-Gain = +15
G-Gain = 0
B-Gain = +11
R-Cutoff = -6
G-Cutoff = 0
B-Cutoff = -29

After adjusting the above, then go to the 'More Detailed Adjustment' option below it.
In this section you will get 3 adjustment options...Red Gain/ Green Gain/ Blue Gain....You seldom if ever adjust

Green, as that carries the Luminence data, you only adjust the Red and Blue, which balances things out well enough

to not make needing to make huge adjusting of the Gamma [which comes next]

You are given 10 settings to put calibration settings into.
The lowest [closest to Black] is 10 IRE, the Highest [pure white] is 100 IRE
Here are the settings I measured for each, and what you need to put in....if one or two colours are omitted in any particular IRE, it means there needs no adjustment, and the value should remain Zero

10 IRE
R-Gain = +5
G-Gain = +1
B-Gain = -15

20 IRE
R-Gain = +1

30 IRE
B-Gain = +19

40 IRE
R-Gain = -2
B-Gain = +23

50 IRE
R-Gain = -4
B-Gain = +33

60 IRE
R-Gain = -5
B-Gain = +32

70 IRE
R-Gain = +5
B-Gain = +18

80 IRE
R-Gain = +4
B-Gain = -12

90 IRE
R-Gain = +3
B-Gain = -23

100 IRE
R-Gain = +15
G-Gain = +4
B-Gain = -49

OK, that's the major part of grey scale tracking done.
Now to get the GAMMA correct....which in this instance has been calibrated to 2.2

I chose this Gamma as it is closest to 'Film'
You get great 3D depth when it is calibrated correctly, without the need for 3D specs....it might seem a bit dark at first, but bear with it, as once you view it for a while, you will see it's virtues.

Amazing colour gradients become apparent,in what otherwise would seem the same colour if not calibrated to this Gamma [Star Wars Force Unleashed,,,when she is sliding down the sand after exiting the crashed Battle Cruiser,is a prime example]
You can drop the Gamma in the menu to 2.1 or 2, but any less and it defeats the purpose,and beauty of the chosen 2.2 Gamma, and your TV will start looking like a bog standard Samsung...washed out.

Anyway.
Here are the Gamma adjustments to get 2.2 correct with the previous settings.
Again you should find yourself in Advanced Settings > Gamma > More Detailed Adjustments
Like the adjustments above, you will have input for each IRE 10 to 100, but you will have only one slider control

that goes either + or -, adjust as directed below

10 IRE
-20

20 IRE
-18

30 IRE
-24

40 IRE
-21

50 IRE
-27

60 IRE
-19

70 IRE
-13

80 IRE
-6

90 IRE
-19

100 IRE
-2

Nearly there folks...so close yet so far from perfection.
Only Colour Management to do....and since the EX Panasonics are so good at colour, there is very little to adjust

[Pity the same can't be said of the Grey scale tracking which you have just adjusted...took me close to 5.5 hours

to get as good as I could]

So for the last time you are in Advanced Settings, this time the colour management controls

There are two sets of adjustments, one for the primary colours [Red/Green/Blue] and another, in the 'More Detailed Adjustment ' section of the same menu for the secondary colours of [Cyan, Magenta and Yellow]

Adjust as instructed below
Each colour has 3 adjustments HUE,Saturation and Luminence....as with the White adjustment, not all colurs need adjustment in all 3 areas, so unless mentioned, presume the unnamed value to be 0.

Red-Hue = -2
Red-Sat = +4

Nothing needs to be done to Green

Blue-Hue = +1
Blue-Sat = +3
Blue LUM = +5

More detailed adjustment menu

Cyan -Hue = -2
Cyan -Sat = -9

Magenta -Sat = -7
Magenta -Lum = +5

 

That's it folks, your done
Hope your TV agrees with my settings, and it ends up looking as good as mine does.
There are always going to be small differences in TV's, But I think after calibrating mine, and seeing just how large the Grey Tracking is out on these TV's, you should find that even if your TV differs quite a bit, using my calibrated settings should give you a far more detailed, and immersive picture.

Enjoy

 

 

Edited by Tweaky
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I'm about to give these settings a run!

 

Thanks so much for all the work you've put into this Tweaky, much appreciated :thumb::thumb:

 

Are these settings for use with 4K HDR and 2K?

Edited by Wags69
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16 minutes ago, Wags69 said:

Where the EX750 struggled was in terms of its peak brightness, which only measured at 420 nits in its most accurate mode...

 

An interesting comment as usually one of the trade-off's between an LED LCD and OLED is better peak brightness vs absolute blacks. Good to read though that the edge-lit local dimming system works well.

 

JSmith :ninja:

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Panasonic already have the EX780's replacement being sold in Japan [or at least advertised ] the EX850....it doesn't have 3D.

Somebody mentioned where that info was posted that they thought it might be a Japan only TV ????

It seems pretty stupid dropping 3D when your the only manufacturer making 3D capable TV's, I mean you have the market to yourself !

 

On a side note.

I bought the Diversified Video Solutions download version of their RM UHD/HDR-10 test patterns, I've got the files loaded onto a USB Flash drive, which I have inserted in the Panasonic UB4000 4k disc player.

I just went to peruse through the patterns again, mainly so I can get acquainted with the menu structure.

The last test pattern I put on was the HDR clipping test, which has the full HDR-10 range, right the way up to a 10,000 nit signal....it played for about a minute of two, then the Disc player sort of crapped out, stopped sending a signal to the TV, and then shut down, it's not broken, as after a short while I got it back working again.

I'm thinking that the signal of that test pattern is too hot for the disc player to handle, and it shut down in a sort of act of self preservation ....anybody else heard of anything like this happening?

Not with just the UB range of Disc players, but Oppo's and what ever other 4K disc players are out there.

Edited by Tweaky
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I tried these settings just on hdmi 2 as everything goes to my denon. I saved the them and copied to all so I didn't loose them. I had the apple tv screen saver  on while I was changing the settings and I could see the changes as I was doing it. the 100RE seems to be the one that had all the changes as everything seamed to be on zero. Although I only have the  4th generation ATV My screen savers now look UHD. Looks lovely thank you so much

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4 hours ago, Wags69 said:

Thanks so much for all the work you've put into this Tweaky, much appreciated :thumb::thumb:

Are these settings for use with 4K HDR and 2K?

Ditto Tweaky :) Calibrated for 2k bluray Wags .

Quote

And basically for playing back Bluray Discs....not for other sources ...if using a Panasonic UB4000 4K disc player or it's like, the TV will automatically Upscale the 1080p Bluray to 4K...the calibration settings given below will only make the upscaled image look better.

confirmed by reference to rec709 rather than bt2020 also 

Quote

Colour Gamut = REC 709

 

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Yeah, sorry I forgot to reply to that question...cwt is correct.

I'm going to do another few calibrations for this TV, but since it took so long and I spent most of yesterday doing the first one, I'm in no hurry to get started on the next.

Obviously one for HDR, and a brighter one for day to day TV viewing, and possibly one more for a PS4 Pro if I bother getting one.

 

Actually it took so long for a few reasons, not being that familiar with the new TV's menu, and because It was ages since I did a full calibration from scratch, plus the ChromPure software I used is the latest version, which has some differences to the previous version that I wasn't familiar with, plus I was hampered by having to use the mouse pad on the Laptop, which I loathe, which made clicking the little choice buttons in the software a PITA, and a lot longer to do than if I had used a proper mouse [i'm a Desktop guy], next time I'm going to hook up a proper mouse.

 

I reckon I could do a full calibration from scratch in about 3 to 4 hours tops now.....well if I use the software's built in test signals, quite a bit longer if using a calibration disc.

 

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6 hours ago, Tweaky said:

Glad you like the settings.

Try watching a Bluray like Passengers or Fantastic Beasts and where to find them, they really look something special when using those True Cinema settings and with the TV's 4K upscaling.

I have passengers on UHD but I put in the UB900 to check the difference. It was good before but I think it even looks better.  I think the blacks are better 

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I bought a PS4 Pro on the way home from work the day before yesterday ...well it was inevitable really considering the new 4K TV.

 

After waiting nearly 4 hours for the data from the standard PS4 to be copied over to the PS4 Pro [My 1TB HD is nearly full], I got to briefly try it before I went to bed....nice, but when playing a 4K game it automatically loads up a BT 2020 in Normal picture view....which is washed out, and far too Blue....well the same as this TV looks UN-calibrated.

 

I tried it again yesterday and changed it to my 'True Cinema' calibrated settings...a lot more definition, but too RED......so all I had to do to fix that was leave the base calibrated settings, then just change colour from Warm 2 to Normal...WOW!, that really made a difference....truly amazing PQ for a game.

 

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1 hour ago, Tweaky said:

I bought a PS4 Pro on the way home from work the day before yesterday ...well it was inevitable really considering the new 4K TV.

 

After waiting nearly 4 hours for the data from the standard PS4 to be copied over to the PS4 Pro [My 1TB HD is nearly full], I got to briefly try it before I went to bed....nice, but when playing a 4K game it automatically loads up a BT 2020 in Normal picture view....which is washed out, and far too Blue....well the same as this TV looks UN-calibrated.

 

I tried it again yesterday and changed it to my 'True Cinema' calibrated settings...a lot more definition, but too RED......so all I had to do to fix that was leave the base calibrated settings, then just change colour from Warm 2 to Normal...WOW!, that really made a difference....truly amazing PQ for a game.

 

Just on the game topic, in the settings you say to put it in game mode. What does that do?

I thought I noticed a bit of judder watching a recorded foxtel HD program so I switched it off and I felt the image seemed "smoother".

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Game mode basically directs all TV processing to achieve a lower controller input LAG.[It will de-activate some settings]

Those like 'Frame insertion', MPEG stuff, Noise Reduction....and the like, anything that will take up processing overheads, and cause a frame rate drop

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Well after umming and aahing about upgrading my projector, and not being able to get the one I wanted, I had some money burning a hole in my pocket, so decided to grab a Sony KD75X9400E that was on special to replace my 10 year old Kuro. 

Lots of thoughts about going Oled, but in the end I wanted something bigger?

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8 minutes ago, gillmaverick said:

Panasonic 75inch EX780 is $ 3196 at Hardly Normal right now for anyone who wants it.

Cheers

Yes, It is hard to look at the prices after you just bought one; the Sony 65" X9000E is only $2316 finishing today!!!

I can't complain too much as mine was an insurance replacement with a little extra for upgrade.

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I would have bought the 75", but it was just Too Big , well for my lounge room at least.

My biggest problem was if I had bought the 75" it would have meant I would have had to move my Harbeth SHL5's very close to the side wall, and almost into a corner.....I'm not going to ruin the sound for a larger TV.

 

I don't know what the story is with these EX780a models ATM.

The Good Guys had them at 20% off all models yesterday, but for one day only [so a 65" would have been just under $2400], which was basically what I ended up paying when I got mine from Bing Lee] , they had 'Clearance' next to them for that day, not now.....they might have sold out of the 65" because it's not on their website ATM, only the 75"

Bing Lee only has the 75" listed online

JB has all of them listed, but that's JB, it doesn't mean they have the stock, plus their prices are similar to RRP

 

I see Samsung TV's got a HDR-10+ software upgrade yesterday or the day before, so I hope my TV gets it as well, since Panasonic decided to go that route rather than paying a license fee for Dolby Digital

 

OH, by the way.

I decided to buy some backlighting LED's to fit to the rear of the TV, this should boost Black Level perception by fooling the eye.

Hey, at $23 from Ebay for a 5m roll of these things that are USB powered, and come with a remote, why not try them out was might thought?  Same ones at Jaycar are around $80-$90.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/100-500CM-5V-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-Colour-Change-USB-Kit-Background-Lighting-PC-TV/391912352842?hash=item5b3fcbec4a:m:mKdZfPkSi09b5qTmtUoYPpQ

 

 

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when I started playing passengers last night I noticed the HDR kicks in the settings changes to cinema mode although I have set HDMI2 to true cinema. after HDR loads up you can then change it to true cinema, however this darker. somehow I think panasonic have made the software to tune into cinema mode automatically when hdr kicks in. I have changed the cinema settings also so I don't have to go into picture settings all the time.    

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On 15/12/2017 at 6:16 PM, Tweaky said:

 

OH, by the way.

I decided to buy some backlighting LED's to fit to the rear of the TV, this should boost Black Level perception by fooling the eye.

Hey, at $23 from Ebay for a 5m roll of these things that are USB powered, and come with a remote, why not try them out was might thought?  Same ones at Jaycar are around $80-$90.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/100-500CM-5V-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-Colour-Change-USB-Kit-Background-Lighting-PC-TV/391912352842?hash=item5b3fcbec4a:m:mKdZfPkSi09b5qTmtUoYPpQ

 

 

Hi Tweaky, do you know how much current these LED strip lights draw (per metre)?

I think USB 2 and 3 output only 500 mA maximum (USB 1, for TV program recording, maximum is 900 mA)

Wouldn't want to overload the USB port used.

 

 

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On 12/16/2017 at 10:59 AM, Lynne Mangold said:

when I started playing passengers last night I noticed the HDR kicks in the settings changes to cinema mode although I have set HDMI2 to true cinema. after HDR loads up you can then change it to true cinema, however this darker. somehow I think panasonic have made the software to tune into cinema mode automatically when hdr kicks in. I have changed the cinema settings also so I don't have to go into picture settings all the time.    

Depends on a couple of things, first if it was a 4K or Bluray version of Passengers, and secondly what Disk player you were using [some might work differently, as in options available on Auto detection of disc format ].

I can only go by my experiences with this TV so far, using my current, not so ideal setup.

If I play either a 4K disc or Bluray though my Panasonic UB4000, it will choose a different setting, even if sent to the a different HDMI port.

If using the Panasonic as the disc player, and it's a 4K disc, it will auto shift to 2020 colour space and True Cinema, but both the contrast and backlighting would have been ramped up considerably, if it's a Bluray, the disc player will auto upscale to 4K, but remain with REC 709 colour space, and again True Cinema.

If the PS4 Pro is used as the disc player, it won't upscale the Bluray disc, like the Panasonic will, so things remain as standard REC 709 2.2 gamma.

 

Another factor that could change things will dependent on if you have you disc player running through a HT amp, and only using a single HDMI output from the HT amp to the HDMI 2 port [which is the ARC HDMI port].....if you do that, you sort of lose a whole another available set of different preferred settings that you could have only programmed and available on the TV's HDMI 1 port.

That's why I bought a HDCP 2.2 4K HDMI switch unit so I have my PS4 Pro and Panasonic UB4000 both plugged into the HDMI 1 port [so I get full 10 Bit resolution] and it leaves HDMI 2 port to still have ARC to the HT amp [which I want so I can have the HT amps display available to be seen on the TV, rather than only on the HT amp front fascia] , the HDMI port 3 & 4 are only 8 bit.

This has meant extra cabling, but thankfully the Panasonic disc player has HDMI audio out, so I plug that into the HT amps HDMI 1 port, and it's video into the switcher, for the PS4 Pro I run a optical cable also into the HT amps number 1 port, and again video into the switcher, since I'm never using both sources at the same time, the HT amp auto detects which source is being used, so auto switches the audio to suit.

 

I'm still playing around with my setup, as I'm really busy at work ATM, but I have 5 weeks holidays coming up starting from the 22nd , so I'll have plenty of time to sort things out.

But if I were to replace my perfectly good HT amp for one with 4K pass-through, which some would consider a upgrade, it seems to me that I'd actually lose out on this flexibility in have certain calibrations for certain sources....not quite sure, but it seems that way.

 

At one stage I was suffering a very big RED push using what I thought were my calibrated 'True Cinema - REC 709 settings', I mean this Red push was really quite jarring, almost Fluro Red, anyway, it turned out that for some reason the colour gamut hadn't changed back to REC 709 from 2020, as soon as I switched it back all was fine.

There are so many settings on this TV, it's quite easy to have one wrong and you can spend an age trying to figure out what's amiss, I've narrowed it down to 3 main culprits ,1] Color Gamut changes [or not changing when they should usually between REC 709 and 2020], 2] The program you are watching wasn't mastered at a gamma of 2.2 ,so you need to switch it, probably to BT1886...but you need to have 3 other setting set just so or set to off, to even get the option to select BT1886 gamma, 3] Something must of happened in video transfer to the program material you are watching, subsequently if watching in True Cinema calibrated, it looks too yellow or dull, your going to have to either change from True Cinema to one of the cooler view modes, either Warm or, just change the colour Temp selector while in True Cinema [I find this option the one that seems to sort any problem out without losing the gains got from calibrating the Grey scale]

Edited by Tweaky
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