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Sony TV Owners & Discussion Thread


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Are you using 1080p? If not then you probably should. DRC isn't even an option when you're running a progressive mode.

I disabled DRC very early on when I was using the default 1920x1080i provided by the CCC software for my PCs graphics card. I then input a custom resolution and operated at 1080p [actually 1010p active pixels]. Checking a moment ago, I see you are quite right: the DRC option is greyed out.

At 1080i there was a small amount of line twitter in isolated parts of the picture, which disappeared on changing to 1080p.

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That good to hear kendrew. I assume that noise isn't an issue for you with the SXRD - I know mine is very quiet.

Yes, Greebs, the fan noise isn't an issue. I can hear it in the silence or at very low volume levels but it is much better than the 3LCD RP. However the picture from the SXRD is so superior that I would be prepared to put up with a bit of fan noise (hmm? ?)

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Yes, Greebs, the fan noise isn't an issue. I can hear it in the silence or at very low volume levels but it is much better than the 3LCD RP. However the picture from the SXRD is so superior that I would be prepared to put up with a bit of fan noise (hmm? ?)

Ah excellent - the only time I really notice it myself is when I switch the TV off late at night - was just curious how it compared to the 3LCD, and it seems that the SXRD is quite a ways ahead.

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What model UPS does he have? Is it an online type?

I hope so. I'm awaiting to see if Kendrew continues to not have problems in UPS mode given he did have problems like mine without it (surge only). I understand this could be just a fluke set of events but often the simple answer is the most correct one. I'm in Australia.

Thanks for your PM and your kind words, Bathrone.

However I'll give the required info. via the open forum. There may be others who can also shed light on the most suitable UPS for the SXRD.

Since hearing about square and sine wave types and transfer time to battery/AC I must become more familiar with the various specs.

Ours is: POWERWARE 5110 series, model no: PW5110 700A

Website: www.powerware.com.au

I see from the specs. sheet, the transfer time is 6ms typical. "Riv39" referred to a 'decent' switching time of about 6ms. I would like to know if it adequately copes with the SXRD circuitry.

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Thankyou Kendrew.

Tests will show that in fact a modified square wave "cheapo" UPS is actually better for rectification into DC because the peaks of voltage last longer and this makes the ripple effect after recticiation to be less - i.e. actually better than sinewave for getting a good clean DC signal. It is not true that PC's use the ac waveform frequency for any sort of timing events.

Unlike standby UPS's, there is another type of UPS called an inline UPS that has an instant latching time but these cost more to buy and alot more to maintain with reduced battery life. Any decent device will have a PSU that will cope with a voltage sag of 6ms. Capacitors and inductors in the PSU will store a bit of energy before running out. For home office use a standby UPS in my view is fine.

More advanced standby UPS's will have features like AVR - automatic voltage regulation. For example during a brownout, ordnary standby UPS's will shift over to battery and begin to run out of energy quickly. With AVR, the UPS will top up the mains power and will use less battery and will last longer in this mode. I think individual circumstance will be the means by which people think this is useful or not.

Your model has a high joule rating for overpower situations which is very good. There is some debate about joule rating being a good indicator or not of lightning strike capability but without going on and on about that I will just say that its a reasonble measure.

The specs arent too helpful from the companys website but we can gather it is a standby unit. I think well suited to your home entertainment situation. Practice has shown your display to be happy with the 6ms latch time - therefore - we can logically conclude:

1. the device is protected from transient switching - ya

2. It maybe prone to power sags

The manual says our 60" displays consume 230watts, so theres hardly anthing happening with 240volts and only 0.1 amps being drawn.

Laurie, respectfully I would not be concerned with inductive loads like start up and shutdown. This is an issue for loaded compressors in fridges and other big stuff not puny little devices drawing 0.1 amps.

Riv39, I think the PSU in our model is different because the manual states the input needs to be 50hz AC 220-240volts which isnt compatible with the US system. I dont think we can compare ours to theirs.

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Day 2 with set

Great viewing from Toppy

Hooked up the Topfield SD PVR, and checked out some old recordings.

Surprising clean picture, even though only SD.

It was a revelation re-watching some of the recorded programs. On the 60" SXRD, details in the background previously overlooked just jumped out of the screen. [Previous set was a 30" HD CRT with unspectacular visible resolution.]

The difference was so great, more of the old recordings will need to be watched again!

Viewing distance

In another thread, I mentioned a viewing distance of 1700mm. Since then the TV has been moved to a different spot in the room. Currently the viewing distance depends on whether the viewing is at the edge of the seat! (1.7m), or relaxing into the couch (2.2m).

DVDs

Quality of DVD playback varied. Some were poor - a large screen shows up deficiencies. Most of them came up well, though lacking the clarity of an HD DTV broadcast. Some of the DVDs will now need to be watched again, to appreciate the extra detail, now clearly visible.

Playing back movies with the PC from its DVI port through a DVI to HDMI adaptor

This worked well after reducing contrast, and setting the 'black corrector' in advanced adjustments to off. The PC would have been outputting a full range of intensity levels, 0 to 255 to its DVI port, rather than the conventional 16 to 235 from a stand-alone DVD player.

Again there was so much detail visible on the 60" screen, e.g. furnishings, costumes, scenery, facial expressions; that had previously simply passed unnoticed.

Colour

The colour seemed slightly better on day 2, perhaps due to slight ageing of the lamp, perhaps simply due to my getting used to the set! I have not gone into the advanced adjustments menu to adjust colour 'bias' and 'intensity'. That will be an activity for another day.

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Congrats on your acquisition mate.

Now that you have a BIG 1080 display you have discovered that it is a VERY different ball game to your 30” TV or PC monitor. You see things that you just don’t notice on the small screens.

I’m am sure it will alter your outlook on HD and resolution issues. :blink:

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Thankyou Kendrew.

Tests will show that in fact a modified square wave "cheapo" UPS is actually better for rectification into DC because the peaks of voltage last longer and this makes the ripple effect after recticiation to be less - i.e. actually better than sinewave for getting a good clean DC signal. It is not true that PC's use the ac waveform frequency for any sort of timing events.

Unlike standby UPS's, there is another type of UPS called an inline UPS that has an instant latching time but these cost more to buy and alot more to maintain with reduced battery life. Any decent device will have a PSU that will cope with a voltage sag of 6ms. Capacitors and inductors in the PSU will store a bit of energy before running out. For home office use a standby UPS in my view is fine.

More advanced standby UPS's will have features like AVR - automatic voltage regulation. For example during a brownout, ordnary standby UPS's will shift over to battery and begin to run out of energy quickly. With AVR, the UPS will top up the mains power and will use less battery and will last longer in this mode. I think individual circumstance will be the means by which people think this is useful or not.

Your model has a high joule rating for overpower situations which is very good. There is some debate about joule rating being a good indicator or not of lightning strike capability but without going on and on about that I will just say that its a reasonble measure.

The specs arent too helpful from the companys website but we can gather it is a standby unit. I think well suited to your home entertainment situation. Practice has shown your display to be happy with the 6ms latch time - therefore - we can logically conclude:

1. the device is protected from transient switching - ya

2. It maybe prone to power sags

The manual says our 60" displays consume 230watts, so theres hardly anthing happening with 240volts and only 0.1 amps being drawn.

Laurie, respectfully I would not be concerned with inductive loads like start up and shutdown. This is an issue for loaded compressors in fridges and other big stuff not puny little devices drawing 0.1 amps.

Riv39, I think the PSU in our model is different because the manual states the input needs to be 50hz AC 220-240volts which isnt compatible with the US system. I dont think we can compare ours to theirs.

Thanks for the info, Bathrone.

It seems you are comfortable with the 'cheapo' PW 5110 series UPS.s in our SXRD situation.

That's good.

Some of what follows has been said but might have some value (like the curate's egg):

Since yesterday, I have done some checking on UPS.s, power supplies, etc. I haven’t been able to answer all my questions but perhaps some of you learned people can fill in the blanks (you already have, Bathrone).

I telephoned the distributor of my current UPS (POWERWARE) this morning and discussed some aspects with a tech. service chappy.

Unhappily, the more he explained, the more I realized I do not know and the more confused I became.

However, a brief summation:

1. The 60” SXRD (and the 70”?) has a power consumption of 230 W (as per manual).

2. Even the base level Powerware UPS model no: 5110 0350A has the capacity (300 VA) to backup the SXRD after a mains power outage, while it is being switched off to initiate the cooling down mode only.

3. The 5110 series are “Modified Square Wave” UPS.s (which I am told do provide some voltage regulation) and are recommended for “switch mode power supplies “ as in most computers.

4. 5115 series are “Sine Wave” UPS.s - which provide full voltage regulation and are best with “transformer type power supplies” hence preferred with audio gear.

I trust I am not guilty of any misinformation.

I ‘phoned Sony to ask about the power supplies in the SXRD - but they couldn’t (or wouldn’t) answer other than to suggest I call the local Sony service centre and ask them.

Our local Sony service centre (which is the service centre for kitchen sinks) is closed until next week.

The PW techie did say that if our current UPS seems to be working, it should be fine.

But it will be nice to be sure.

BTW, our replacement SXRD is in town waiting to be delivered. Next Tuesday seems the go because the contracted courier is also on holidays until Monday, and we have a scheduled power outage for most of that day, so Tuesday it is.

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We have the 70" TV and think it is a good set. But think we bought the wrong TV. It is not good for standard television which is what we watch all the time. We have moved sofa back so we cannot see all the rubbish in standard definition telecast but now we cannot enjoy it with Blu-ray and high definition telecast. But not much high definition telecast on TV and we only have two Blu-ray discs. For even high defintion TV and discs it will shows all rubbish in the picture.

I think it too small a television for high definition and too big for standard definition.

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Well, I finally got around to hooking up the PS2 (via component) to my 60" today. At first I thought it was terrible, but after turning off BNR noise reduction (changed it to medium), it was pretty good - with BNR on it was very ghosted - looked like a bad analogue signal and I thought the cable might be a bit dodgy at first. Certainly not anything like hi-def gaming, but it did a pretty good job of upscaling the 576i input. Was better than I expected to be honest.

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We have the 70" TV and think it is a good set. But think we bought the wrong TV. It is not good for standard television which is what we watch all the time. We have moved sofa back so we cannot see all the rubbish in standard definition telecast but now we cannot enjoy it with Blu-ray and high definition telecast. But not much high definition telecast on TV and we only have two Blu-ray discs. For even high defintion TV and discs it will shows all rubbish in the picture.

I think it too small a television for high definition and too big for standard definition.

If you have found my settings to not be effective using the internal Bravia scaling engine, maybe you could try using an external HD scaler? They are expensive but you might be able to trial one from a hifi store or something? It's also been said the shortly to be released Denon receivers will have the terenex chip in them. This would be killing two birds with one stone - top class external scaling with decoding support for the new HD audio formats.

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Congrats on your acquisition mate.

Now that you have a BIG 1080 display you have discovered that it is a VERY different ball game to your 30” TV or PC monitor. You see things that you just don’t notice on the small screens.

I’m am sure it will alter your outlook on HD and resolution issues. :blink:

Thanks mate. At least I'm getting 1:1 pixel mapping on this set, albeit with overscan. :D

We have the 70" TV and think it is a good set. But think we bought the wrong TV. It is not good for standard television which is what we watch all the time. We have moved sofa back so we cannot see all the rubbish in standard definition telecast but now we cannot enjoy it with Blu-ray and high definition telecast. But not much high definition telecast on TV and we only have two Blu-ray discs. For even high defintion TV and discs it will shows all rubbish in the picture.

I think it too small a television for high definition and too big for standard definition.

Hi dlenaid. People tell me I'm very critical of picture quality, but I have found the performance of my 60" SXRD quite good on all standard definition channels except SBS.

I wonder if you could advise:

*Which standard definition channels have you been watching?

*What viewing distance are you using to watch them?

*How do you rate the picture quality you are getting from your ordinary DVDs?

SBS high definition is not that much better than their standard definition. I understand SBS's budget is limited and they do not invest a great deal in their transmitting equipment. They even seem to broadcast at low signal strength (at least in Brisbane).

I've compared the picture from my Topfield standard definition PVR through component, with the SXRD's internal tuner, and the SXRDs is a little better; but you have the 70" model so there would be no internal tuner.

I note that you were using a Sony HD PVR, and someone suggested an LG as it supposedly has better picture quality.

It does surprise me you are finding the SD transmissions so poor, unless you mainly watch SBS.

...

Colour

The colour seemed slightly better on day 2, perhaps due to slight ageing of the lamp, perhaps simply due to my getting used to the set! I have not gone into the advanced adjustments menu to adjust colour 'bias' and 'intensity'. That will be an activity for another day.

Since I wrote the above, the set has been in use for a further 7 hours or so, doubling as a computer monitor in addition to its function as a TV.

I am finding the colour even better this evening. It is beginning to attain the uncanny realism I saw in the showroom. Ultra High Pressure lamps are supposed to vary with age, losing brightness, but I am surprised at how much variation I have noticed so far in the colour. My partner has also noticed the improvement. This is a most interesting phenomenon. When these sets are reviewed, I wonder whether the manufacturer supplies a set with a lamp that has been 'run in'.

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Well I am now an SXRD owner…the 70”. I had to dispose of my Tosh DLP, even though I loved the PQ. Castel couldn’t guarantee me a set without the diagonal lines on the screen, which were unacceptable.

To me the glory of the SXRD is the colours…….rich and deep. The clincher was the Edinburgh Tattoo…..absolutely superb colour, especially reds which had no hint of over-saturation. The Tosh was poor on reds and yellows, though I wasn’t able to have it calibrated.

I think the SXRD takes 70-80 hours to settle in; I was underwhelmed with it for a couple of weeks as it didn’t seem to have the amazing clarity and impact of the DLP. However with much tweaking, and no doubt more to come, I am very happy with it, especially on good HD. Others have complained about the SD on FTA and I have decided that since some SD looks almost as good as HD (eg. ROME) then the problems are more source related.

But mine definitely has an issue with convergence. See Could other owners please have a look and see how their sets compare. When watching the cricket (I sit at 4m) I can often see a red edge on the right of the white outfit, and a green edge on the left. Maybe because I have had 3 CRT RPTVs before I am very prone to noticing any convergence problems. I believe that with any RPTV with the 3 colours separated there will always be a problem to some degree. That was one area where the DLP was perfect.

But, since I live in the country I believe I have little hope of getting a Sony tech who has any knowledge of SXRD convergence. Also, after reading some of the AVS forums, some people who have fiddled with convergence have ended up with green faces or other colour problems on the set. And I think the colour on mine and the even lighting of the screen are spot-on. So I should probably stick to the devil I know.

The SSE is quite apparent, especially on bright whites and on skies. Also sometimes on faces. But I’d rather that than SDE.

The fan-noise is also quite noticeable. The manual says this is possible when the ambient noise is low. My background noise is very very low. So I might have to put up with that as well. As a matter of interest does anyone know if the fan can be replaced in the home?

As far as settings go, I started with OZHTfan’s posted settings and tweaked from there to try to get the best and most detailed picture on HD, which after all is why I bought the set. I have my Tosh J35PVR set at 1080i as to me it scales better than the TV. I wonder whether different STBs and PVRs would have different PQ? So:

HDMI 1

Iris auto 2

Contrast (Picture) 83

Brightness 53

Colour 43

Black corrector off

Detail enhancer medium

Edge enhancer off

DRC Mode 1

DRC palette 33/33. (Still needs a lot more experimenting with this)

Sharpness 40

BNR on sometimes (helps mpeg blocking)

Warm 1

Low power.

All others at default.

I’m also quite happy with the results on Austar. I can post my settings if anyone is interested.

Despite Owen’s thoughts about brightness I find the Sony on low power similar to the Tosh on low lamp setting. Plenty of brightness during the day but not excessive at night. The blacks are similar, though I can’t help thinking the DLP is slightly better.

If anyone is interested is a pic of my HT. Yes the centre speaker is on the shelf below. I would have thought modern tweeters would have a wide angle of dispersion anyway. And the stand is the Toshiba DLP stand.

Sorry for the size of this post.

EDIT: Problems getting the pics into my previous post:

Convergence:

here

HT setup:

here

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Well i finally took the plunge and ordered my 60 inch today , hopefully take delivery some time around mid next week if all goes well .

Will have to take down all the settings you guys have posted on here so i can have a play when the set arives . Good thing i started my holidays as of today so i have plenty of time to play around with the set and calibrate it to my liking . Glad i found this site as its helped make my decision making process much easier . :blink:

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Pietro, it definitely looks like you've got some convergence issues there. Luckily it can be fixed via the service menu. You can move the RGBs in 1 pixel increments.

I think it was Dr Smith who has had convergence altered. Have any other owners had this adjusted? It is disappointing that the set can have problems.....so many early reviewers said SXRDs didn't have any such issues.

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Pietro

Interesting to get a review from someone who has had the Toshi 72" DLP and based on this I won't be moving to the SXRD if I can get the diagonal line issue fixed - I'm very surprised Castel told you they couldn't guarantee a fix for this fault.

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Huong

They don't seem to have a fix. Even new light-engines from Singapore couldn't be guaranteed to be fault free they said. Although they said 99% of people don't notice. I can't believe that.

Pietro,

thanks, oh dear, the fault is so obvious I can't believe what Castel told you. I will contact them next week.

You commented the SXRD was noisy - how does it compare to the Toshi which was my only other criticism of it.

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I think it was Dr Smith who has had convergence altered. Have any other owners had this adjusted? It is disappointing that the set can have problems.....so many early reviewers said SXRDs didn't have any such issues.

It was.

Looking at the convergence image from your earlier post there does appear to be a problem with convergence, however a better indication of any convergence error will be obtained by displaying a PC desktop at the SXRD's native resolution (1920x1080) via DVI from PC to HDMI on the SXRD.

This display offers 1:1 pixel mapping at native resolution, so an image of text from a web page at native should reveal far more on any convergence error than your above image.

I only had a one pixel convergence error with one colour, but yours may be more pronounced given that it can be seen on the picture menu and that you notice a problem from a normal viewing distance. I had a service tech correct mine via the service menu under the Sony warranty.

I find the fan to be very quiet on the normal setting, but if the cooling mode is set to high the fan operates at a higher speed and is somewhat noisier.

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Pietro, it definitely looks like you've got some convergence issues there. Luckily it can be fixed via the service menu. You can move the RGBs in 1 pixel increments.

It's very difficult photographing the convergence malalignment with a consumer level digital camera. The trouble is that a consumer level still camera will only focus with a sweet spot in an isolated region. Anyway, here is a picture taken of my 60" set displaying a convergence test pattern to give a very broad idea: http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?act=Att...ost&id=2372

The picture is not very accurate. Inspection with the naked eye reveals the following patterns:-

Vertically (a one pixel wide vertical line):

*************************************************

*************************************************

*************************************************

*************************************************

*************************************************

*************************************************

*************************************************

*************************************************

*************************************************

*************************************************

*************************************************

*************************************************

It will be noticed that the vertical alignment is pretty accurate.

Horizontally (a one pixel high horizontal line):

******************************

******************************

******************************

******************************

******************************

******************************

******************************

******************************

******************************

******************************

******************************

******************************

******************************

******************************

******************************

******************************

The horizontal alignment is marred by the fact that red consists of two lines of pixels, the upper line slightly fainter in colour. (This upper line is not visible in the photo, but is quite visible to the naked eye). This may be an anomaly in the video processing; or perhaps it was set that way at the factory to attempt to average out the misalignment of the blue (in a low position) and green (in a high position).

This is something I may have to ask Sony to check.

I would have thought a better compromise would have been to drop the line of green pixels by one pixel position; and to dispense with the upper line of red pixels.

Position of centre speaker

I have the SXRD mounted on a coffee table, and a centre speaker sits on the 'magazine shelf' of the coffee table, as per this picture. The screen is displaying a mallard and ducklings, superimposed on an 'outer geometry' test pattern.

The sound seems fine*. However I'll try some critical listening to material with centre channel content, before posting comments in the Home Theatre sub-forum.

* P.S. Until playing a DVD with strong centre channel content! The centre speaker will need to be raised.

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Thanks mate. At least I'm getting 1:1 pixel mapping on this set, albeit with overscan. :blink:

Hi dlenaid. People tell me I'm very critical of picture quality, but I have found the performance of my 60" SXRD quite good on all standard definition channels except SBS.

I wonder if you could advise:

*Which standard definition channels have you been watching?

*What viewing distance are you using to watch them?

*How do you rate the picture quality you are getting from your ordinary DVDs?

SBS high definition is not that much better than their standard definition. I understand SBS's budget is limited and they do not invest a great deal in their transmitting equipment. They even seem to broadcast at low signal strength (at least in Brisbane).

I've compared the picture from my Topfield standard definition PVR through component, with the SXRD's internal tuner, and the SXRDs is a little better; but you have the 70" model so there would be no internal tuner.

I note that you were using a Sony HD PVR, and someone suggested an LG as it supposedly has better picture quality.

It does surprise me you are finding the SD transmissions so poor, unless you mainly watch SBS.

Since I wrote the above, the set has been in use for a further 7 hours or so, doubling as a computer monitor in addition to its function as a TV.

I am finding the colour even better this evening. It is beginning to attain the uncanny realism I saw in the showroom. Ultra High Pressure lamps are supposed to vary with age, losing brightness, but I am surprised at how much variation I have noticed so far in the colour. My partner has also noticed the improvement. This is a most interesting phenomenon. When these sets are reviewed, I wonder whether the manufacturer supplies a set with a lamp that has been 'run in'.

MLXXX we watch much TV on all channels. Telecast quality do not think is best on any channels. It is the rubbish on the telecast that is hard not to see. For high definition channels channel 7, channel 2 and for SBS we do not see much improve. For high definition channels 9 and channel 10 there is sometimes some true high definition but if you look carefull there is rubbish there on screen. DVD quality is good not like Blu-ray but not too much rubbish like with TV telecast.

We have done many distances from the television. From 2 meters for Blu-ray and high definition TV telecast and 3.5 meters far for standard television telecast. We now have sofa at 3.5 meters which too far to see blu-ray properly but with TV we see less rubbish.

I have compared in Harvey Norman this week the Sony HDPVR and LG HDPVR. There is little difference. The rubbish is there with both equipment, maybe little less to see with the LG HDPVR.

When went to buy the TV in store we liked Blu-ray picture, we did not see before buying on TV telecast. Since buying the TV we are noticing poor TV telecast picture. Maybe we are pickie. Maybe one day TV will improve like Blu-ray. Not all blu-ray is best but TV telecast has much rubbish.

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Pietro,

You commented the SXRD was noisy - how does it compare to the Toshi which was my only other criticism of it.

Ironically, the fan noise from the Sony is louder than the colour wheel noise of the Tosh, at this stage. I'm hoping that the Sony will get quieter as it runs in, though I am about 100 hours up now.

Thanks for the comments re convergence. I'm still thinking that as the picture is so good now especially on HD, I may well leave it alone.

The other thought is if I can get someone to calibrate it, and they have the service manual, I could get the convergence done then. I really don't think a country service agent is going to have any idea and might make it worse.

I think OZHTfan is on hols.....I know his was calibrated, though from what I remember it seems to have been done without the service manual.

I am getting a Tosh HD-E1, can't wait to see the HD-DVDs on this set.

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