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Speakers need to be isolated from the floor

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FWIW I used these soundcare jupiter spikes with Infinity Ref. 50 floorstanders on a carpeted floor, and the improvement in bass clarity was quite noticeable.

Some of the claims on this item are fraudulent. For example, "Soundcare® SuperSpikes reduce disturbing vibrations and prevent low frequency noise from transmitting to other rooms." Any 3rd year mechanical engineering student will tell you that is nonsense. These spikes provide ZERO isolation. They couple. Try replacing your vehicle suspension with spikes and see how well they de-couple your car from the road.

Go down to Bunnings or Jaycar as someone suggested and save yourself some serious cash if you want spikes.

Why is it that the mark-ups with "Audiophile" equipment are just stupendous! Kind of like mentioning "wedding", all of a sudden the prices for the same product goes through the roof. Please do not take offence, I feel someone should hold some of these companies to account for some of their claims and ridiculous mark-ups.

It appears these "spikes" sit flat ON the carpet, so, If you are hearing an improved bass response then I'd suggest this is associated with supporting the speakers over a smaller area of carpet (potentially lowering the supported stiffness, or increasing it if the carpet has now compressed), which has moved the rigid body resonances of the cabinet away from either the excitation frequency range or to frequencies which are less noticeable.

So, you should have had the same result by placing some similarly sized small rigid disks between the cabinet and carpet (they must be high enough so they are taking all the weight). Try a blind test.

By coupling your speaker to the floor with spikes, this increases vibration transmission to the floor and increases the excitation of cabinet resonances. This may effect the sound by direct sound radiation from the cabinet and/or by influencing the drivers at those frequencies.

If they sound fine to your ear then that is all that matters.

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  • My floor vibration approach with my 100% diy speakers is to use industrial isolators with published measurements.   First, with the subs (they weigh 400kg each) I use pneumatics  (https://ww

  • Some of the claims on this item are fraudulent. For example, "Soundcare® SuperSpikes reduce disturbing vibrations and prevent low frequency noise from transmitting to other rooms." Any 3rd year mecha

  • Reviving a dead thread to add my 2cents (and save starting another one when there is already discussion here). Thanks to @VKP1976 who had kicked this whole exploration off in a private chat we have go

I should add, the way that spikes would increase the excitation of cabinet resonances would be through the coupling with the floor and its subsequent excitation. The floor response might also be an issue.

This may not be a problem for a very stiff (high natural frequencies) well damped floor (higher frequencies are more easily damped).

If your floor is not stiff, you will have problems with both methods, that is, spiking or using isolation elements.

The first step is in stiffening up the supporting structure of the speakers.

Edited by GFuNK

The spikes on my speakers help stop them from falling over.

The guy I bought my amp from use to own the same speakers as mine and suggested I place a slab of Slate under them as I only had small square pads in the corners of the base to protect against the tiled floor.

Tried a few places with no luck. Searching the net, I came across these http://www.soundseasy.com.au/v3/product_detail.php?productID=1307 and bought a pair.

Not cheap but found they did improve and tighten the bass of my speakers. They work a treat, look good, work on most surfaces and don't leave a mark. Everyone who listens to my system are amazed at the good clean bass the speakers are able to produce.

Someone handier than I could maybe throw something similar together for much less cost.

The guy I bought my amp from use to own the same speakers as mine and suggested I place a slab of Slate under them as I only had small square pads in the corners of the base to protect against the tiled floor.

Tried a few places with no luck. Searching the net, I came across these http://www.soundseasy.com.au/v3/product_detail.php?productID=1307 and bought a pair.

Not cheap but found they did improve and tighten the bass of my speakers. They work a treat, look good, work on most surfaces and don't leave a mark. Everyone who listens to my system are amazed at the good clean bass the speakers are able to produce.

Someone handier than I could maybe throw something similar together for much less cost.

Sigh, again, did someone mention hi-fi, throw in a couple of buzz words and this guy is selling a very simple product for well in excess of a reasonable rrp.

I would love to have a reasonable discussion with anyone trying to sell or produce any similar product!

Yeah, I agree, the price is excessive for the simple materials used. Another item I was looking at that is much cheaper but decided was too large is this, http://www.soundseasy.com.au/v3/product_detail.php?productID=736.

Maybe you could cut it in half if your speakers aren't too big or there is a larger one. More for use with guitar amps, though would still work. Have also seen these on Ebay.

  • 11 years later...

Reviving a dead thread to add my 2cents (and save starting another one when there is already discussion here). Thanks to @VKP1976 who had kicked this whole exploration off in a private chat we have going. I can confirm that the following configuration:

 

Subwoofer

--------------

Rubber anti vibration squares from bunnings

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300x600 concrete paver from bunnings (actually 2x 300x300 pavers, worked out cheaper to do this as I had a tight budget)

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Rubber anti vibration squares

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Floating floorboards

 

Has totally changed how my subwoofers act in my room. Previously I had a very hard time finding the right gain on a song by song basis because the threshold for resonating with the floor was nigh impossible to pin down resulting in boomy flatulant and undefined bass (I have them crossed over with my JR149s at about 100hz). Since introducing the above config my in room bass response is way tighter and much morr defined. I can now set and forget the gain and enjoy it to levels that previously would have me turning off my system in frustration.

 

My 'main system' (see signature) is what I've implemented the isolation on and I intend to try it with my Axis LS38's next.

Edited by rundllexe

  • 1 month later...

I have floorstanders on a timber floor. Last year I exchanged my spikes for isoacoustics Gaia2 and can recommend the spend. Everything sounded a bit more real straight away and listening to bass instruments has become addictive. 

They're expensive but it's a life long investment. You keep the original spikes and if you ever sell the speakers just transfer the gaia2's to your new pair. 

I am sure this has been covered but while I am here I will ask the question. My speakers came with spikes so I put them on. I am on concrete flooring with carpet. Will I benefit by putting a granite slab under them and then the spikes. Personally I think that might be worse. Will gaias work on concrete floors. I do find if the spikes are not leveled properly the slight movement in the speaker creates annoying distortion I don't like. As was said earlier the spikes couple the speakers to the floor but is there vibration in the concrete below the carpet that can affect the speakers to an audible level. I am sure there is someone here that will have addressed this. Buying Isoaccoustics is an expensive exercise. If I was on timber I would definitely have them. Thanks for any help

 

Cheers

Jon

Hey Jon. For starters you don't need  a granite slab if your floor is underlay and carpet on a concrete slab. Your spikes should be working well as long as there is air between your speaker cabinet and the carpet.

Isoacoustics isolate the speaker cabinet from any surface and when using them on carpet they come with their own discs that they sit in.

Personally I wouldn't bother buying them for a carpet floor on concrete (if you have long spikes) as you don't have a live floor.

Edited by Toeknee

Great thanks Tony. Kind of thought this was the case but always like to have things confirmed by the gurus.

I have carpet on a slab and although I spent a bit to buy Gaia II footers, buying their carpet cups (with spikes underneath) for even more was too much. 
 

I have my speakers sitting on Bunnings granite pavers which have inexpensive coupling cones silicone to them underneath. This cost a fraction of what IsoAcoustics charge for their spike cups but, I estimate, work just as well. 
 

IMG_0620.thumb.jpeg.ca81c4d5ba39f212cc258535efdc420e.jpeg

Edited by Steever

1 hour ago, Steever said:

I have carpet on a slab and although I spent a bit to buy Gaia II footers, buying their carpet cups (with spikes underneath) for even more was too much. 
 

I have my speakers sitting on Bunnings granite pavers which have inexpensive coupling cones silicone to them underneath. This cost a fraction of what IsoAcoustics charge for their spike cups but, I estimate, work just as well. 
 

IMG_0620.thumb.jpeg.ca81c4d5ba39f212cc258535efdc420e.jpeg

Whilst Bunnings May describe it as Tuscan bluestone or granite, it is actually vesicular basalt from China and it has some audio component isolation properties that work very well.

The image you provide showing the Gaia feet combined with the basalt would result in a non optimal arrangement from my working with the Gaia’s and basalt.

What sorts of problems were you experiencing in the room with your large floorstanders.....you gave no info on that when you started this topic. Too much bass? What are you trying to effect.

1. Spikes through the carpet onto the concrete floor will give you all the "spike benefits" and more slabs are unlikely to give much more.

 

2. Isolating the speakers from the floor (via Isoacoustics, rubber squares, ...) should help even more. 

 

My very heavy speakers (±130kg each) were spiked through thin carpet and underlay to a double thickness concrete slab and gained considerable improvement when Isoacoustics Gaia-Titans replaced the spikes. With the carpet and underlay being thin, no carpet disks were recommended by Isoacoustics. I found them very helpful and not pushy at all.

 

I highly recommend the Isoacoustics gear and the "love it or return it" guarantee from Selby made it an easy trial.

I have mounted my loudspeakers (35kg) on top of timber plinths (55x35x4cm) which have spikes going through the carpet into the flooring beneath.On the underside of each plinth I added some galvanised steel plates (Bunnings) for bracing purposes. My Wilson Benesch loudspeakers have downward pointing bass ports so the loudspeaker spikes sit upon a set of metal spike shoes creating an air gap of roughly 30mm above each plinth.

I recently bought a set of 8 "Big Fat Dots" which are adhered to each of the spike shoes. Results are pleasing........bass output is excellent and speaker vibration (finger on top of speaker testing device) is not excessive. Speakers are easy to "level" or to tilt backwards. The speaker can also be moved further out into the room if desired.Other options in my case are ISOACOUSTICS GAIA and or ENTREQ VIBBEATERS but they are very expensive and not sure if that is worth it.

NOTES: Timber used is camphor laurel stained/sanded......quite heavy timber type. Cost $70. Herbies Big Fat Dots cost about $15 each plus postage from the US (ouch)

IMG_4064.JPG

Edited by 075Congo
more details

Thanks guys I think you have answered my query. I think my question was still in line with the OP and didn't hijack his thread.

On 20/01/2012 at 10:44 AM, GFuNK said:

Any 3rd year mechanical engineering student will tell you that is nonsense. These spikes provide ZERO isolation. They couple. Try replacing your vehicle suspension with spikes and see how well they de-couple your car from the road.

 

Yep, spikes will very effectively couple vibration.  If isolation is required a damped spring mechanism is required.

 

Edit:  when I say spring I don't necessarily mean a coil of wire.  Could be a leaf or compliant rubber etc.

Edited by March Audio

Rubber feet do a better job than spikes….. but they don’t look as fancy…. My speakers sit on rubber feet, and I’ve never had any complaints. 
 

Anytime I need to isolate PA pro speakers and subwoofers, I recommend spring loaded mechanical isolation….. another option is composite sprung and unsprung material layering, particularly useful for floor mounted bass systems. 

Edited by Grizaudio

I think it would be prudent to link to this thread where the results speak for themselves.

 

 

For anyone attending the 2023 StereoNET Show, Isoacoustics will be running their demonstration with two identical pairs of speakers, one fitted with Isoacoustics and the other not, and simple switching between the two pairs. I've heard this demo at multiple shows around the world and the improved sound is always evident.

48 minutes ago, Marc said:

I think it would be prudent to link to this thread where the results speak for themselves.

 

 

For anyone attending the 2023 StereoNET Show, Isoacoustics will be running their demonstration with two identical pairs of speakers, one fitted with Isoacoustics and the other not, and simple switching between the two pairs. I've heard this demo at multiple shows around the world and the improved sound is always evident.

 

I have considered having custom out riggers manufactured for my speakers to allow Isoacoustics to be fitted without raising speaker height....

As I don't want my speaker sitting any higher.  

But I honestly don't think the isoacoustic solutions would provide any benefit over good quality rubber isolation solutions. 

 

Products like this, appear to be much better value, would be interesting to A/B. 

I.e. https://www.svsound.com.au/products/soundpath-subwoofer-isolation-system

 

 

 

Surprised no one has mentioned 

https://sorbothane.com.au/collections/industrial-sorbothane

Have been using it for years to excellent effect.

Particularly for use on suspended hardwood flooring and with speaker sets weighing close to 135Kg per side, an Industrial sized solution.

Keeping ordered harmonics out of the floor is a priority fairly well, via "de coupling". I would believe this phenomenon would be measurable, via REW Waterfall Graphing. It's certainly an audible improvement, clearing up bass resonations. 

 

Edited by playdough

sharing my approach 

 

board is from Bunnings - no idea of it's acoustic characteristics 

using 75mm x 7.3mm eye hook screws to lift board off carpet and couple (maybe not as well as speaker spikes) to slab. initially 3x for each side, but now is 4x - there was a little wobble if pushed, wasn't sure it it was the Gaia's so went with 4. simple enough to level or wind out to slide around for placement. I've tried to show that a pencil can readily slip under but there is a minor degree of carpet-board contact 

phase 1 - speakers on the ol' crowd favourite White's vibration blocks

phase 2 - speakers on Gaia

speakers are 32kg ea 

no measurements or subjective thoughts on sound difference 

image.png.64c47670a65a3cbc144cc98663954f12.png

 

image.png.c4d1aabf9b97fb0afba61740baa154cc.png

Sorbothane is state of the art anti vibrating material. One of my worker colleagues use this as antvibro under his speakers with very good results, and he has the upper league of heavy floorstanders, i think over 120 kg per speaker, if not more. And his floor does not play along with the speakers when i had listened in his room.

It is expensive, but you get what you pay for when it comes to this material.

 

https://www.sorbothane.com/

 

I use Sorbothane hemispheres under components with moving parts (in my case CD transports), while the speakers are coupled to the concrete through carpet with cone spikes. 

 

The best change for me was to stiffen the speakers with triangular aligned buttress sand filled steel tubes, otherwise they wobble.  The factory mounting/foot T bracket is not up to the job of keeping 2m high speakers rigid.

 

 

DCP_1716.thumb.jpg.8fd3656130963551a0df64795d1259a1.jpg

 


DCP_1718.thumb.jpg.53ed96053eb2d8983e93816c24957ba0.jpg

Edited by aechmea
A couple of old photos.

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