zzkazu Posted February 6, 2020 Posted February 6, 2020 I found this guide (5050UB) which will be relevant for calibrating the Epson TW9400. I hope to have mine next week to work through this. Havent found other concise guides for the projector. https://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-home-cinema-5050ub-4k-capable-home-theater-projector-review-calibration-settings/
hopefullguy Posted February 7, 2020 Posted February 7, 2020 seems the 5050UB is the ehtw8400... but i guess the 9400 would be similar settings.
zzkazu Posted February 7, 2020 Author Posted February 7, 2020 Yes thats the case, the 6050UB review outlines this also. https://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-pro-cinema-6050ub-4k-capable-home-theater-projector-review/
betty boop Posted February 7, 2020 Posted February 7, 2020 just be VERY careful just plugging in settings guys. i helped with 9400. there were a lot of way off settings in it I found had to mostly all put back to factory ! lot of the settings ie brightness, contrast, really shouldn't even play wiht unless using a pattern. and actually the factory 0 is probably pretty good if just looking by eye. main thing is actually setting luminance a light meter is handy but it really depends on screen size vs throw... and then adjust lamp level and iris. A calibration is really dependant on room and setup as well as determines final image. There is a difference between calibrating and plugging in settings. you can't calibrate a projector by plugging in settings. need to calibrate it in my opinion. not to say there are some basics cant do. but its minimal in my opinion need to play with or should unless doing a full calibration. 1
zzkazu Posted February 7, 2020 Author Posted February 7, 2020 Ack, I'll be using my i1 Display Pro and Chromapure for the calibration. 1
chaddy Posted February 7, 2020 Posted February 7, 2020 I've used both those links to set up three memory settings. All are very bright as they use the higher lamp settings. Not bad in my Family room set up but I could imagine quite OTT in a theatre room.
zzkazu Posted February 7, 2020 Author Posted February 7, 2020 I'll be interested to see where I end up in comparison. Link for me was more about finding and using the right menus and adjustments in the Epson. 2
Tweaky Posted February 7, 2020 Posted February 7, 2020 (edited) Is it a new PJ ? If so I'd leave off calibration until it had at least 150 hours on the electronics and the lamp. You'll find with new lamps that they don't drift down slowly to lesser light output, they will put out high lumens and then you will have a sudden drop to a lot less, the lesser output will be your new norm, it from then on slowly drift downward RE light output, you want to wait until the PJ is at this state before calibration, the first big drop from new is not a subtle drop, it is very noticeable when it happens. Grey tracking /white balance etc [same thing] is the thing you really need to get correct, it's a PITA but worth it. The Epsom only having a 8 point adjustment for the Grey scale does hamper you quite a bit, as it means you'll have to stuff about a lot trying to get those 8 points even. You can still use your calibration software finer Grey scale adjustments [I think ChromaPure has 20 point adjustment] it will just mean a bit [lot] more twoing and frowing between setting to get it correct, as your PJ's adjustments are going to be very coarse compared to other PJ's/TV with 20+ point adjustment. To calibrate with a IRIS open or closed is another thing you have to decide before you even attempt a calibration, it's either one or the other. Watch a few movies with both the Iris set at AUTO and the same movies with the Iris set open. Decide if the Iris closed [Auto] gives better Black levels / contrast compared to fully open, if you feel it looks better with the Iris closed, then have your Iris closed when doing all metering / calibration I use ChromaPure as well, I've always followed this guide/ walk through for calibration http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322 Edited February 7, 2020 by Tweaky 2
zzkazu Posted February 7, 2020 Author Posted February 7, 2020 Thanks Tweaky, I haven't done a HDR calibration before so I can feel some time in the bat cave scratching my head coming up. PITA about the 8 point, at least they could have provided 10 point; somewhat disappointing.
Tweaky Posted February 7, 2020 Posted February 7, 2020 TBH the I wouldn't bother doing a HDR calibration, it's only worth doing if you have a Native 4K PJ, even doing it for my 4K Panasonic was barely noticeable, reason being that there is no 'Standard' RE: NIT's [Light output] for UHDR to measure at. Also there is no range within the controls on the TV'PJ in that UHDR that you can make a meaningful difference with. UHDR is 'pie in the sky' reference that has been agreed upon, more as a target spec, problem is NO screen/monitor/PJ on the planet can get even close to reproducing those specs. The Grey scale should remain the same regardless [Thank God], it's only the colour gamut that will differ. You can make subtle adjustments with the UHDR colour, but TBH they are very subtle. Also, if going the extra yard for UHDR calibration, you have to use the actual machine you are going to use for that 4K Disc playback.....I found that my Panasonic 4k Disc player sends out a over vivid signal, colours can be garish....if I use the same 4k disc player to calibrate colour, then that garishness can be neutralized
zzkazu Posted February 7, 2020 Author Posted February 7, 2020 Ack thanks for advice... I have read heaps of threads on HDR but yes as you outline it seems a bit of black magic. This kind of says it all.. https://www.lightillusion.com/hdr_calibration.html
ShouwnO Posted November 20, 2020 Posted November 20, 2020 I used these calibration settings with my TW9400 and very happy with the results. There seemed to be too much green in the picture with default settings (especially in Digital Cinema mode).
Vwman01 Posted October 23, 2024 Posted October 23, 2024 (edited) On 07/02/2020 at 6:09 PM, Tweaky said: Is it a new PJ ? If so I'd leave off calibration until it had at least 150 hours on the electronics and the lamp. You'll find with new lamps that they don't drift down slowly to lesser light output, they will put out high lumens and then you will have a sudden drop to a lot less, the lesser output will be your new norm, it from then on slowly drift downward RE light output, you want to wait until the PJ is at this state before calibration, the first big drop from new is not a subtle drop, it is very noticeable when it happens. Grey tracking /white balance etc [same thing] is the thing you really need to get correct, it's a PITA but worth it. The Epsom only having a 8 point adjustment for the Grey scale does hamper you quite a bit, as it means you'll have to stuff about a lot trying to get those 8 points even. You can still use your calibration software finer Grey scale adjustments [I think ChromaPure has 20 point adjustment] it will just mean a bit [lot] more twoing and frowing between setting to get it correct, as your PJ's adjustments are going to be very coarse compared to other PJ's/TV with 20+ point adjustment. To calibrate with a IRIS open or closed is another thing you have to decide before you even attempt a calibration, it's either one or the other. Watch a few movies with both the Iris set at AUTO and the same movies with the Iris set open. Decide if the Iris closed [Auto] gives better Black levels / contrast compared to fully open, if you feel it looks better with the Iris closed, then have your Iris closed when doing all metering / calibration I use ChromaPure as well, I've always followed this guide/ walk through for calibration http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322 Hi Tweaky, I have noticed that if I calibrate my grayscale to an average dE of <1 with the IRIS closed, when the iris is open the dE jumps to around 4 at almost all points. The color balance has a slight shift as well as a small change in gamma (comes out of black faster). Can you explain your logic for calibrating with a closed IRIS vs open when intending to use an open IRIS + Auto engaged. Cheers! Edited October 23, 2024 by Vwman01
Tweaky Posted October 23, 2024 Posted October 23, 2024 6 hours ago, Vwman01 said: Hi Tweaky, I have noticed that if I calibrate my grayscale to an average dE of <1 with the IRIS closed, when the iris is open the dE jumps to around 4 at almost all points. The color balance has a slight shift as well as a small change in gamma (comes out of black faster). Can you explain your logic for calibrating with a closed IRIS vs open when intending to use an open IRIS + Auto engaged. Cheers! You'll always get differences when a Iris is involved, its just the nature of the technology being used. It's easier to calibrate with the iris open, just because you have more light hitting the screen to measure, and then setting the Iris to auto. I don't think the colour is actually changing, its just your perception of colour changes when the contrast is increased when the iris engages, and since when viewing via a PJ you are in a darkened room, any slight change is easily picked up. 1
usethe4c Posted October 28, 2024 Posted October 28, 2024 On 23/10/2024 at 7:03 PM, Vwman01 said: Hi Tweaky, I have noticed that if I calibrate my grayscale to an average dE of <1 with the IRIS closed, when the iris is open the dE jumps to around 4 at almost all points. The color balance has a slight shift as well as a small change in gamma (comes out of black faster). Can you explain your logic for calibrating with a closed IRIS vs open when intending to use an open IRIS + Auto engaged. Cheers! Some people suggest using APL patterns to calibrate the basic greyscale with the Iris on. You can find some on the avs709 disc and hcfr patterns I think. I've had a lot of trouble with the latter since the chromecast link stopped working (well at least when using a Google tv)
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