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Posted (edited)

"I'd suggest lowering the contrast a bit until the 100 hours are up, but everything else should be fine, I reckon! As for the 51 showing 576i on DVD, that just means that the source input is 576i - the Kuro will still be doing the upscaling to 1080p. Personally I have my 71 (same as the 51) set to "Auto" output resolution rather than "source direct". That means the blu-ray player rather than the Kuro is doing the upscaling - I couldn't tell much difference between the two, except that in "auto" the 51s menus look a lot nicer than they do in "source direct"!"

-

Thanks Dave

---------------------------------

"I wouldnt be too concerned about watching 4:3 shows,the black bars wont be a problem."

Thanks Wheelz,

I read somewhere that changing the sidebars to grey will help prevent any screen burn, I've tried again over the weekend to change the screen settings in the Foxtel box to "By STB" and then "Stretch" but it definately seems like the TV is over riding it.

Thanks again.

Edited by NormanD

  • 3 months later...
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Posted

Any visiting Singapore may want to pop into Audio House or Courts.

They are clearing the KRP 500A at $Sin 3999 with a Pioneer BD 320 BR player.

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

the de-interlacing chip in the KURO that converts incoming interlaced signals to progressive is excellent. If theres a difference between it and that offered by Marvell or silicon optix its hard to spot in real time footage, IMHO

Edited by williamtassone
Posted

been using source direct/native output on my players to the kuro krp500m pete. as will says the chip in the kuro must be damn fine, as whether its marvell, or reon/realta or abt in the players is all an irrelevance to me these days :)

Posted
the de-interlacing chip in the KURO that converts incoming interlaced signals to progressive is excellent. If theres a difference between it and that offered by Marvell or silicon optix its hard to spot in real time footage, IMHO

Very true hence why I leave my IQ2 on passthrough :rolleyes:

cheers laurie

Posted (edited)

Thanks, it seems to be better when I use "source direct" on my Oppo BD 80, and instead use the internal chip of the Kuro, and the results are not bad.

Cheers

Edited by petetherock
Posted

Could anyone provide a copy receipt of purchase PDPLX609A or PDPLX608A

as I have been saving up and currently looking to purchase it

Please help or piont me to the right direction

Thanks guy

Posted
Could anyone provide a copy receipt of purchase PDPLX609A or PDPLX608A

as I have been saving up and currently looking to purchase it

Please help or piont me to the right direction

Thanks guy

Tricky. You'll only find the 608 second hand... they haven't been sold new for at least 12 months now. The 609 can be had but you;ll need to find one.

1000

Posted
Tricky. You'll only find the 608 second hand... they haven't been sold new for at least 12 months now. The 609 can be had but you;ll need to find one.

1000

Are there any owner of the PDPLX609A out there that can help in providing a copy of there purchase receipt, as I finding it very dificult to

negotiate a good price with most of the main store.

Posted

Been skulking on the forum for some time now, finally bit the bullet & purchased a LX509a prior to Xmas.

Great tv (wish I could have afforded the 60 inch). Anyway I have a problem with the set turning itself off for no apparent reason (yes the timer mode is off).

Has happened twice, once watching FTA & also when watching a blu ray.

Also with the pioneer blu ray player (BDP120) the blue LED has stopped working (red standby still operating) hardly worth getting fixed just annoying with something so new.

Anybody else suffer with this type of issues?

Thanks

Posted

Ring Pioneer and get both looked at. They offer some of the best after sales warranty service, so don't 'live' with it. Get it seen to before warranty runs out!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

<_<

Anyone heard buzzing on their Kuros?

It seems there is a faint noise after a few hours if I turn off the air-con.

Cheers

A faint buzz on the Pioneers is pretty stock standard. If it's bothering you switch to Drive Mode 2. That should make it a bit softer.

Cheers.

Posted
Anyone heard buzzing on their Kuros?

Whilst I owned a C509, buzzing was quite loud. The official Pioneer response was to switch to Power Save mode 1 or 2: mode 1 reduced it a little and mode 2 almost completely eliminated it, however both affect the PQ a little.

Posted
Whilst I owned a C509, buzzing was quite loud. The official Pioneer response was to switch to Power Save mode 1 or 2: mode 1 reduced it a little and mode 2 almost completely eliminated it, however both affect the PQ a little.

Power Save Mode 1 combined with Drive Mode 2 should have miminal affect on PQ and keep any buzzing pretty quiet.

Andys.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
So are Pioneers affected by the same darkening issue affecting Panasonics?

You wouldn't even notice it if it was :rolleyes:

cheers laurie

  • 3 months later...
Guest HDTVJunkie
Posted

Hello,

Long time viewer, first time poster.

I might have the opportunity to purchase a Pioneer KRP, either a 500M or a 600M.

From online reading, the general consensus is that the 500M incorporates some ‘9.5G’ technology that results in better blacks (0.0005 versus 0.001) and reduced PWM (dithering?) noise compared to the 600M.

I would like to have the extra 10” that the 600M provides, but I do not want to sacrifice picture quality. As I have not seen either of these two models on display, I would like to ask the members of the forum to assist me with my decision. My seating position will be approximately 2.5 to 3.0 metres from the TV

Specifically;

1) Is the black level of the 600M considerably different to the 500M? (will it be noticeable in a dimly lit/dark room?)

2) Does the 500M have better black level detail compared to the 600M?

3) How much better is the dithering noise reduction of the 500M compared to the 600M? Does it have a sharper picture? Will I be able to see the difference from my seating position?

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