norman Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 (edited) Dear Stereonet friends - I decided to try out 5.1 home theatre to get my toes wet and see what it is all about. I bought a new condition modern Yamaha 5.1 receiver with HDMI in and out for $50 from Gumtree locally from a couple moving to Sydney. It doesn't have a ton of power, but I don't really care as if I get really interested I will move up later. The HT box is a Yamaha RX-V371. In the room where the Blu-Ray player and TV are located, I have my hi-fi rig. It is based on a pre-amp/power amp pair for the stand-mounted hi-fi speakers, and I also have a custom-built sub with a Merlin Audio-built crossover that I can vary the relative volumes of the mains and sub with. I am using the hi-fi speakers as the fronts I have a pair of cast-off Pioneer units for the rear of the 5.1 setup. My question is this - so far I am worried about killing both amps from mixing signals/power from each amp if both are accidentally turned on at the same time, so I have wired up the fronts separately. New leads from the Yamaha to the speakers are switched by pulling out the hi-fi power amp speaker from the leads and plugging in the HT leads, so that they never connect electrically (and back again when I want stereo from the hi-fi). This is a pain of course. Is this the best way to go? How do you guys do it? On this amp there are no signal level outputs (except for the sub). I bought a speaker switch box from Dick Smith before they went bust that I could plumb in to do duty instead of front speaker physical lead swapping - is this a good idea? Also, the Yamaha has a line level sub feed (no sub power amp present in the HT unit). What is the best way to "merge" the wiring to the sub amp so I can get both hi-fi and HT sound? Can I just use a cable splitter and connect both feeds before the amp? Will this cause any damage or is there a better way (another switch box perhaps?) Any help will be appreciated. Edited June 8, 2016 by npeters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quark Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 (edited) First off, is your hifi amp a valve amp? Running a valve amp without speakers connected can damage the output transformers. From your signature it appears solid state, but want to be sure. Edited June 8, 2016 by Quark 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 No - its solid state. I have enough tube amp ownership experience from guitar playing to know to never drive a valve amp with no speaker attached :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quark Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 No - its solid state. I have enough tube amp ownership experience from guitar playing to know to never drive a valve amp with no speaker attached :-) The ideal would be to have an AVR with pre-outs and a pre-amp with HT bypass, so something to keep in mind for future upgrades. Does the DS switchbox allow you to select inputs rather than just speakers? That's the sort you need. Does the sub have two low level inputs? If so connect one two each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jventer Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 I may not understand what you are asking, but here goes. If you have different amps driving the same speakers an option is to have a set of speaker cables from each unit and then to change the cables as required. IT IS A PAIN IN THE BUM BUT I have been doing it for the last 5 years. The alternative One could have a switch of some kind. In such a scenario you would have different things connected to the switch and then choose which source is driving the speakers. I tried that, not a bad idea, but it did not work for me - too many boxes, cables etc. The best alternative IMO is an integrated amp/amp with HT bypass. Enjoy the journey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 (edited) Johannes - I am swapping cable exactly as you have described on he fronts and was looking for an alternative.I will take the advice if / when upgrade time comes around to get a HT amp with line outputs.I dug out the switch. It can take up to 140 watts per speaker, but the way it is constructed could allow two amps to be connected together inviting disaster. The speakers are switched by push buttons - push for on and push again for off. Too dodgy by half. Keep the advice coming please. Edited June 9, 2016 by npeters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quark Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Johannes - I am swapping cable exactly as you have described on he fronts and was looking for an alternative. I will take the advice if / when upgrade time comes around to get a HT amp with line outputs. I dug out the switch. It can take up to 140 watts per speaker, but the way it is constructed could allow two amps to be connected together inviting disaster. The speakers are switched by put tons - push for on and push again for off. Too dodgy by half. Keep the advice coming please. You want a switch box like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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