Andy was right, the Swamp 234XL is limited, and may not be suitable? 🤔

 

here is the limitation;

 

Low/Mid dial, 45 to 960

Mid/High dial, 450 to 9.6k

 

 

that 2nd dial is in play, for both 3 way stereo, and 4 way mono configurations.

 

 

Edited July 9, 20223 yr by Sentient

46 minutes ago, Sentient said:

Andy was right, the Swamp 234XL is limited, and may not be suitable? 🤔

 

Which gives you a problem, S - given you said the 10x10HD is currently out of stock.    Subsequently, to reduce the number of A2D and D2A conversions, I moved to a nanoDIGI 8x8 - which is all digital so:

• you need digital in - which would appear to suit you, as I think you said you have a digital source
• and you need to buy several DACs, to feed your power amp channels.  (I bought 4x Topping E30s.)

 

So perhaps the Behringer digital XO is your only option, currently?

 

Andy

 

43 minutes ago, andyr said:

Which gives you a problem, S - given you said the 10x10HD is currently out of stock.    Subsequently, to reduce the number of A2D and D2A conversions, I moved to a nanoDIGI 8x8 - which is all digital so:

 

I dont know the end target environment for these speakers.   My test rig, is simply my test rig.    I did have visions of using them in my home theatre, as the main L/R speakers.   I'll need analog input capability for that.

 

Is your 10x10 for sale?  😁

 

Before I investigate options any further, I need to re-measure all the drivers with passive crossovers removed.

17 hours ago, Sentient said:

think my starting point will be:

* bottom bass up to 80hz,

* top mid bass 80-200,

* mid driver 200-3k

* tweeter above 3k. 

 

This could sound good with no cross overs through most of the voice midrange.

 

Would PC software crossovers be another option?

9 minutes ago, Sentient said:

 

Is your 10x10 for sale?  😁

 

 

Sorry, no - it is long gone.

 

I have a DBX 223XS active cross over on my main system, handling sub integration.

 

it has suitable ranges for testing.

 

Low/Mid, 40-960

Mid/High, 40-9.6k

 

This one is stereo 2 way, or mono 3 way.  It'll at least allow me to test further.

Edited July 10, 20223 yr by Sentient

forget the running in, am far too curious.

 

the top mid bass box, I was most curious about.

 

fairly simple xover inside....

the back of this driver looks fairly old. 🤐

 

so, passive crossover bypassed, with some cotton dialetric 23g solid core copper.

 

all re-assembled, and this 8" driver measures flat from 80 to 1k.

 

Beautiful !   Swamp is still in play.

 

I'll probably run it up to 480.  😍😁

Edited July 10, 20223 yr by Sentient

buffers removed, and swamp crossover now in.

 

testing the right speaker, running 3 way active at this stage.

 

ie:  the middle box with tweeter and mid, is running as 1 integrated channel out of the swamp.

 

The top/bottom bass boxes are running nicely, and integrated well, with no obvious crossover dips. 

 

bottom 10" bass running up to 120

top 8" bass box handling 120-480

 

I will work on the left speaker bass boxes next, and run them 3way active for awhile.  Before doing a 4 way active config comparison.  I need to decide if I will buy a 2nd swamp?

Edited July 11, 20223 yr by Sentient

26 minutes ago, Sentient said:

buffers removed, and swamp crossover now in.

 

testing the right speaker, running 3 way active at this stage.

 

ie:  the middle box with tweeter and mid, is running as 1 integrated channel out of the swamp.

 

The top/bottom bass boxes are running nicely, and integrated well, with no obvious crossover dips. 

 

bottom 10" bass running up to 120

top 8" bass box handling 120-480

 

Given you have this frequ split between the two 'bass boxes' ... can I suggest that you should swap the positions of the 8" bass box and the mid/tweeter box - so your stack is:

*  mid/tweeter box

above

*  8" bass box

above

*  10" bass box.

 

In this way, drivers which cross over to each other are located next to each other.

 

2 hours ago, andyr said:

In this way, drivers which cross over to each other are located next to each other.

 

 

it's a good suggestion, that i had contemplated.  I can easily try it, but the tweeter will be way way above ear height.

 

the stack is 1.4m tall.

3 way active stereo now running.

 

the boxes with the grills on them have had their passive crossovers bypassed.

Edited July 11, 20223 yr by Sentient

It sounds pretty good.   

 

i'll have to get the 2nd swamp, and go all the way.

5 hours ago, Sentient said:

it's a good suggestion, that i had contemplated.  I can easily try it, but the tweeter will be way way above ear height.

 

the stack is 1.4m tall.

 

Then why not try putting the two bass boxes (which are underneath the mid/tweeter box) on their sides - just to see if this does make the sound better?

 

If it does ... then you can figure out how to do this properly!  

 

Edited July 11, 20223 yr by andyr

On 11/07/2022 at 2:13 PM, andyr said:

If it does ... then you can figure out how to do this properly!  

hehe,, maybe.   i certainly wont be building boxes.

 

i can try your suggestion, sure,,, once i get things all in order with the electronics.  ✌

so,,, the 2nd swamp has been ordered.   and while i wait for it to arrive, I have bypassed the passive crossover on the right side mid+tweeter box.

 

and i have configured my current swamp into 4 way mono mode, all cabled up to the right tower.

 

so that right tower is now 4 way active.

 

there is no going backwards.  it's all integrated nicely, with no nasty big dips.

 

sounds crystal clear and very nice.

 

landed on about 2.8k, being the xover point that sounds the best between mid and tweeter.

there's a hint of resonant thump, in the bottom bass box.  

 

i will line it with some acoustic woollen pads, that i have laying around.    see if that helps?

Perhaps, and/or install additional internal bracing if the cabinet itself is resonating?  Looked like there might not be much internal bracing in the existing box(es)?

 

 

 

1 hour ago, 2Brix said:

Perhaps, and/or install additional internal bracing if the cabinet itself is resonating?  Looked like there might not be much internal bracing in the existing box(es)?

 

I previously used (a number of layers of) bitumen paint, to stiffen up a pair of light weight Aarons.    That worked well.

 

I'll try the woollen pads firsts.   It's not bad, it's just a smidge of excitement in that bottom box.

Edited July 12, 20223 yr by Sentient

51 minutes ago, Sentient said:

I previously used (a number of layers of) bitumen paint, to stiffen up a pair of light weight Aarons.    That worked well.

 

Shirley, bitumen paint damps the lightweight cabinet structure - it doesn't actually stiffen it?

 

51 minutes ago, Sentient said:

I'll try the woollen pads firsts.   It's not bad, it's just a smidge of excitement in that bottom box.

 

I presume you glue the woolen pads to the case panels?  (rather than just resting them in place ... or stapling them on?

 

i took the intent as damping :0)

it damped *and* stiffened, as i experienced.

 

that bitumen is heavy sh!t, I tell ya !!

 

😇🤓😜

Edited July 12, 20223 yr by Sentient

GR Research recommends cutting up and glueing heavy duty industrial vinyl floor tiles to the inside of the speakers then glueing foam on top of that.

 

 

14 hours ago, cdave said:

GR Research recommends cutting up and glueing heavy duty industrial vinyl floor tiles to the inside of the speakers then glueing foam on top of that.

gday cd, thanks for sharing that. 🙂

Edited July 13, 20223 yr by Sentient