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Acoustic doors Perth

Featured Replies

On 03/04/2022 at 7:15 PM, Adrian123 said:

Thanks for your responses. Im leaning towards a sold doors currently. Im presuming they would be a much better acoustical wise vs holllow glass French doors

image.jpg

 

Acoustic engineer's advice. 

 

If it's shake and rattle that is the issue, I doubt the glass panes are what's rattling? Add Raven RP48 door seals from Bunnings. This will stop the doors rattling in the frames and give minor breakout improvement, although the gap under the door will remain an issue. 

 

If you want to control sound breaking out to the next room. You will need to include an acoustic drop seal which needs to be machined into the bottom of your door. Otherwise you are wasting your time going for solid doors over what you already have. It must be airtight on all four sides, including where the two doors meet each other. And solid doors core, 53mm or greater. 10.38lam in a French door would help. If you go solid doors or 10.38lam, they need to overlap with acoustic seals where they meet. 

 

 

Edited by DrSK

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  • I had a door made for my room, it's not French but it is acoustically sealed as best we could do in keeping with the aesthetics I was after. I found the door at a second hand shop it had been made for

  • Are the doors to replace the ones on the cabinet? Do you really need them on there? As they are clear glass you can still see all components in there so I would just remove them altogether.

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On 22/05/2022 at 3:18 PM, Marc said:

 

If your gap under the door is anything but small, these lose performance rapidly as sound goes straight through the aluminium. Limits to Rw30 best case. 

 

Recently done a whole load of acoustic door testing (30 door configurations). 

Edited by DrSK

If you're face fixing, then not sure how that would be a problem or make any difference.

You're only sealing a smallish gap that otherwise existed.

11 minutes ago, Marc said:

If you're face fixing, then not sure how that would be a problem or make any difference.

You're only sealing a smallish gap that otherwise existed.

 

If face fixing, have gap small enough so that the door extends to cover all of aluminium to get best performance. Otherwise you won't get the full rating from a decent solid core door. 

 

Yes, it is better than a gap. But if the door is cut too short, you won't get the full performance you should be able to get from the door.

 

Similar issue to failed wall ratings when steel stud systems are used, if gyprock doesn't extend fully to cover bottom and top tracks. Then you need to make sure cornices and skirting boards a sealed air tight, and they usually aren't, especially skirting boards. It limits to about Rw30 when you should get Rw 40, 50, 55....

Edited by DrSK

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