BioBrian Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 Very neat drawings, Rolando. You certainly put a lot of love and attention into this build. Mine are 80kg, but the feet I have are 5cm square, so the speakers contact the floor well, but slide without damaging carpet. I think even with spikes, the speakers would be easy enough to step/dance into different positions, hopefully not threatening any marital equilibrium. Please excuse my terrible drawing: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arpavieja78 Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 Brian, the drawing is very good and has cast me laugh a lot !!! I see that arched back and suffer, you have interpreted me correctly !!! Thanks for the humorous touch !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darth vader Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 @@arpavieja78 Mine are MkII's. According to Troel's site, the horn mouth gap should be 35 -45mm, I have mine set at 40mm. Brian is right, they can be walked off the plinth, the plinth can be moved (plinth's are spiked) and walk the speaker back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arpavieja78 Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/JA8008_DTQWT_cabs.htm " The final cabinets must be 30-45 mm above floor level ! " Dan: I think everyone will have an ideal height according to how to behave in your room ..... why build a base with wheels and height adjustable. Regards ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darth vader Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 I will admit, I'm one of the lucky few to buy a pair of these and not have to make them. I havn't done the hard yards like others, although I was prepared to. But as a user, I've found 40mm works well for me. I think if you have adjustable feet on the speaker cab's, you cant go wrong. Then you can do what you wish on the plinth. Making wheels that look cool might be a challenge. Not an impossible one, but a challenge for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Wagon Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Making wheels that look cool might be a challenge. Not an impossible one, but a challenge for sure. Spoked wheels like on a yuppy pram or mower ? Speaker goes vroom vroom ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arpavieja78 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 New distribution cuts felt, I calculate by mistake twice sections B, so now plenty of material. This can serve someone, becauseI have seen that has Troels miss an update for DTQWTII with the new driver JA8008 HMQ : http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/DTQWT-mkIII-FLAT.htm I'm working with the bonding of absorbent material, soon there will be more photos.... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Japanese boys of Kenrick Sound like to play brummm, brummm .... Me too ! https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z4Nkkt9j39c/maxresdefault.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arpavieja78 Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 (edited) Lack glue the felt top, but the panel superior is not ... I used the toluene-based cement, you have to wear a mask to avoid a psychedelic trip Edited September 11, 2016 by arpavieja78 error de idioma Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arpavieja78 Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 (edited) Here we go with the pictures. November is coming, the date my son Salvador has suggested to me ... (his friend Bebu will come from Germany on that date, and was the one who brought me the bulky package) I'll have to put a little more energy ..... Edited September 11, 2016 by arpavieja78 error photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arpavieja78 Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 (edited) Last for today .... Edited September 11, 2016 by arpavieja78 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arpavieja78 Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 Today I glued the top panel of a box.Tomorrow I will draw the "special" presses and then work with the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BioBrian Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 This is probably way too late to be useful (discussion 27th July 2016), but I finally got to try this water-based contact cement, and can say that it does work OK. (No psychosis to report). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arpavieja78 Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 (edited) Hi Brian Yes, I've stuck most of the felt dampping, just missing the portion of the top panel. Thanks alike, here also a similar product was achieved, but preferred to go to the known. So I think I must admit some kind of dependence on these products, know the MEK? I've used today just to get the board of Eminence speakers DeltaLite 2510 II I'll tell you ..... http://www.formica.com.ar/produtos/adesivos04.htm Edited September 10, 2016 by arpavieja78 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darth vader Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 @arpavieja78 Thank you for this link http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/DTQWT-mkIII-FLAT.htm I was pleased to find a MkII version as, in Troels words, I too loathe the stepped front panel on the MkIII. Glad to see he's addressed this 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tube Nube Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 This is a great option, not just for aesthetics, but to simplify the build. The front panel gave me a lot of trouble. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arpavieja78 Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 (edited) 19 hours ago, darth vader said: @ arpavieja78 Thank you for this link http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/DTQWT-mkIII-FLAT.htm I was pleased to find a MkII version as, in Troels words, I too loathe the stepped front panel on the MkIII. Glad to see he's addressed this Hi Dan Thanks for your comments, I'm glad you have served the link. If I had to start over my building, ( the now MKIII ) not only would the panel frontal plane, but also try to change the dimensions to accommodate the rear speaker Eminence 2512 II in a traditional cabinet. I do not esthetically pleasing those two wooden slats on the rear panel added. I would write Troels calculate to me a new cabinet (I do not think it was too difficult given their experience and expertise in the subject) or try to calculate myself. http://www.mh-audio.nl/TQWT.asp (No guarantees here, if anyone is encouraged, runs on its own) Rolando Edited September 13, 2016 by arpavieja78 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arpavieja78 Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 (edited) 6 hours ago, Tube Nube said: This is a great option, not just for aesthetics, but to simplify the build. The front panel gave me a lot of trouble. Without slats would also be simpler construction, I think if the WAF was achieved with 28 cm wide, about 4 cm extra, would not change his mind.... Edited September 12, 2016 by arpavieja78 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tube Nube Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 rather than recalculate the inner dimensions, why not just thicken the sides by an inch or so? I made those slats at the back even wider, because I wanted the Emmi ence 12" drivers clean and flush with the back. Another area that gave me grief. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arpavieja78 Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 (edited) Maybe someone will remember that I decided to use a rear panel 30 mm instead of 22 mm recommended. So to keep the internal volume accurately the speakers Eminence Delta II 2510 should be placed in the same place. The most convenient solution I found to maintain the robustness of the rear panel, remove the inner seal was the speaker. Simple and effective, but .... for it, use MEK, I'll stick some previous work, do not think bad. (Especially Brian ) In this way I keep the internal dimensions of Troels diagram and is thick wooden important to support the two twofers. I have not gotten black wood screws good thickness, so I decided to use T-Nuts. My speakers JBL - DIY - have many years of removal and replacement, and have remained in place. Anyway before nailing aplicare epoxy resin. Edited September 12, 2016 by arpavieja78 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arpavieja78 Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 (edited) 9 hours ago, Tube Nube said: rather than recalculate the inner dimensions, why not just thicken the sides by an inch or so? I made those slats at the back even wider, because I wanted the Emmi ence 12" drivers clean and flush with the back. Another area that gave me grief. Yes, of course, on the outside it would be "traditional", but want me to say? The side panels would have very thick ! I've dealt enough for gluing 2x 15 mm plywood .... Edited September 13, 2016 by arpavieja78 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arpavieja78 Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 (edited) Ops, these speakers are different !!! Look polarity !! I leave some photos more, Interior joints removed. I have found the appropriate screws and T - nuts, I think Sierra has used them (Allen head) Edited September 16, 2016 by arpavieja78 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzlowie Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 As those terminals are different I'd use a 1.5v battery to check which way the cone moves. Just touch it across the terminals and watch the cone move in or out, make sure they both go the same way. I'd say that someone made a mistake when putting the terminals on....Happy building.Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arpavieja78 Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 Thanks Dave ! It's exactly what I did, and speaker working properly .... with inverted terminal blocks .... but that is what changes mechanically in its internal construction? I guess the coil is backwards ..... In the specs of Eminence does not mention what kind of coil is single coil? Winding superimposed? I am inclined to believe in the second ..... You can choose your language at this link : http://construyasuvideorockola.com/bobina_4_capas.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arpavieja78 Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 Placement of T-nuts, and how not to chip the edges of the holehousing the speaker. It was not necessary to apply epoxy adhesive, and can see that changed tool, much better with the old walrus hand ...This will not move . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benen Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 A very clever way of installing t-nuts but also so simple! Your speakers are looking amazing. I still read this thread every time there is a new post and still desperately wish to build some of Troels speakers! I have the tools now but have yet to make a decision on which speaker. I'm worried I won't be able to produce such precise work. Was it not very difficult to get the dowels in perfect position? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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