mloutfie Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 47 minutes ago, krakatana said: @mloutfie Have you replaced the electrolytics? I'm going through the process now. The caps in the power supply and the logic circuit were particularly bad ie. leaking. I planned to do it but for now I've gone through mine and there is no leaks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krakatana Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 Except that those caps are way beyond their expected lifetime. They don't have to be leaking not to be out of spec. If left like that they could damage the ICs in the TT. It's actually cheaper replacing the electrolytics than it is replacing the thrust pad if you do it yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_mac Posted August 29, 2018 Author Share Posted August 29, 2018 6 minutes ago, krakatana said: Except that those caps are way beyond their expected lifetime. They don't have to be leaking not to be out of spec. If left like that they could damage the ICs in the TT. It's actually cheaper replacing the electrolytics than it is replacing the thrust pad if you do it yourself. Very true, and there's two types of leakage - physical venting/leaking of electrolyte, and electrical leakage. Sadly I didn't test the Matsushita caps that I removed from the SP10 shown earlier in the thread, so I can't say how they spec'd out vs the replacements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mloutfie Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 14 minutes ago, krakatana said: Except that those caps are way beyond their expected lifetime. They don't have to be leaking not to be out of spec. If left like that they could damage the ICs in the TT. It's actually cheaper replacing the electrolytics than it is replacing the thrust pad if you do it yourself. Do you have the capacitors list? I've found it before in a web page but can't find it anymore Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krakatana Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 (edited) These are the values for the Power Supply: 1x 1000uF/100V (can) 1x 1000uF/16V (axial) 1x 100uF/160V (axial) 2x 100uF/16V 2x 100uF/50V 1x 22uF/160V I'll type up the remainder in the turntable soon. I noticed that pete_mac used a different value for the 1000uF/100V (2200uF instead?). Maybe it's beneficial to increase that but I've used the same values as the original caps. Edit: That's not quite true, some of my caps had higher voltage ratings in the power supply. Edit: 1x 100uF/60V (axial) changed to 1x 100uF/160V (axial) Edited August 30, 2018 by krakatana 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krakatana Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 Turntable 10 x 1uF/50V 2 x 2.2uF/50V 3 x 10uF/16V 5 x 10uF/50V 1 x 100uF/16V 1 x 100uF/50V axial 1 x 330uF/10V 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve M Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 You guys are scaring me now with the need for cap replacements ...I treat my SP10 Mk II like an old car, if it ain’t broke don’t touch it. It just keeps going and going faultlessly over the years. I do have a back-up spare SP10 and psu in the attic. Maybe I should reappraise this approach and get the soldering iron out?? Cheers, Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelw Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 i'm not the paranoid type so i'd stick to "if it ain't broke, don't touch it" mine's only been opened up when something broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krakatana Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 I would call it peace of mind rather than paranoia. Not servicing it is like driving your car for several years without changing the oil. Having said that it still hasn't been put back together yet, maybe it won't even be working anymore! The thing is that nothing appeared abnormal with the TT. Except maybe for a slight, consistent wobble in the strobe? The first picture is the worst of the caps from the power supply and the second is from the TT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mloutfie Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 15 hours ago, krakatana said: These are the values for the Power Supply: 1x 1000uF/100V (can) 1x 1000uF/16V (axial) 1x 100uF/60V (axial) 2x 100uF/16V 2x 100uF/50V 1x 22uF/160V I'll type up the remainder in the turntable soon. I noticed that pete_mac used a different value for the 1000uF/100V (2200uF instead?). Maybe it's beneficial to increase that but I've used the same values as the original caps. Edit: That's not quite true, some of my caps had higher voltage ratings in the power supply. 15 hours ago, krakatana said: Turntable 10 x 1uF/50V 2 x 2.2uF/50V 3 x 10uF/16V 5 x 10uF/50V 1 x 100uF/16V 1 x 100uF/50V axial 1 x 330uF/10V BTW is yours Mk2A? looking for details for any difference of the parts used since spec wise it's seems to different from standard Mk2 with slightly better wow and rumble. Also finally found the caps list from before. It's also seems to be recommended to replace varistor did you replace yours? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krakatana Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 No, it's an 1982 model. A few of the original caps in the power supply have lower voltages than the ones that I listed but the capacitance is accurate. Thanks, I didn't know about the varistors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mloutfie Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 actually looking at the manual of mk2a it's using only one big board mine definitely has 3 boards so must be a mislabelling or something Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krakatana Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 There's actually four boards but two are closely associated. Varistors in the control circuit (VR101 = 20k Ohm, VR102 = 2k Ohm) and Power Supply (R405 = 500 Ohm, R415 = 2k Ohm). Will have to research what the modern equivalents are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mloutfie Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 19 hours ago, krakatana said: These are the values for the Power Supply: 1x 1000uF/100V (can) 1x 1000uF/16V (axial) 1x 100uF/60V (axial) What did you use for this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krakatana Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 A mixture of Kemet, Vishay and Illinois Caps, due mainly to availability. Primary considerations for selecting the power supply caps were maximum operating temperature and expected lifetime. NB. I made a mistake with the original list: 1x 100uF/60V (axial) should be 1x 100uF/160V (axial). 1x 1000uF/100V (can) https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/kemet/PEH169PA4100QB2/399-12296-ND/5427898 Not ideal as it has a large aluminium bolt at the base. This can be easily cut off with a hacksaw. The original cap was 1000uF/80V, good luck finding that! 1x 1000uF/16V (axial) https://www.digikey.com.au/products/en?keywords=MAL211816102E3 1x 100uF/160V (axial) https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/illinois-capacitor/107TTA160M/1572-1663-ND/5410815 But I would go for this one now, it was out of stock when I ordered. It has a slightly higher rated voltage but a much longer expected lifespan and higher max. temp: https://www.digikey.com.au/products/en?keywords=MAL211892101E3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mloutfie Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 17 minutes ago, krakatana said: 1x 1000uF/100V (can) https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/kemet/PEH169PA4100QB2/399-12296-ND/5427898 Not ideal as it has a large aluminium bolt at the base. This can be easily cut off with a hacksaw. The original cap was 1000uF/80V, good luck finding that! I should be able to replace that with this right? https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/products/1802116/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krakatana Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 It should be fine. The only possible issue is that the diameter of the original can is about 35mm and the diameter of the one you have linked is 25mm. But just wrap something around the can to get a tight fit. No issues with height. Where did you read about the varistors needing be changed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mloutfie Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 in the list of parts to replace picture above it's highlighted red Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krakatana Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 Thanks, but where is that table originally from? The impression I get from reading is that the varistors may only need a spray of De-Oxit rather than replacement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_mac Posted August 30, 2018 Author Share Posted August 30, 2018 Gents, you can safely double the size of the large filter cap in the power supply - absolutely no drama in that regard. This makes it easier to find one that will fit the original clamp. This is the exact cap that was installed in the power supply shown in my posts - I note that the power supply was overhauled before I received it: https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/2550276/ 35mm diameter and 55mm height is what you can work with dimension-wise 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_mac Posted August 30, 2018 Author Share Posted August 30, 2018 (edited) Doublo el posto Edited August 30, 2018 by pete_mac Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_mac Posted August 30, 2018 Author Share Posted August 30, 2018 Mouser have some nice caps with the correct diameter: https://au.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/_/N-75hqtZ1yzvvqx?P=1z0j7ksZ1yx553eZ1z0j88r&Keyword=2200uf+100v&FS=True&Ns=Pricing|0 In particular, the Kemet cap at approx. $16 is a beauty! The only bugger with Mouser is that shipping is $25 or so, unless you spend over $60 and get free shipping. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A9X Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 Interesting thread guys. I have 3 SP10 II and a spare motor and a (probably) complete unit in parts and want to build a really plinth for one large enough for 3 arms. I already have the arms and carts and can rebuild the preamps I have in storage. So, my question is do any of you have any idea how to refinish the plinth and platter a la this? Or should I just ship it to Blighty and get it done? What piqued the interest again is I will have some spare ply from the new speakers and a friend doing a CAD course so I can get him to do the layers to get cut out. The electronics I can easily mod and I'll need to build a PSU. Now, back to your regular programming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mloutfie Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 11 hours ago, A9X said: So, my question is do any of you have any idea how to refinish the plinth and platter a la this? Or should I just ship it to Blighty and get it done? You can ask an sl1200 restoration place to powder coat the plinth and platter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mloutfie Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 14 hours ago, pete_mac said: Mouser have some nice caps with the correct diameter: https://au.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/_/N-75hqtZ1yzvvqx?P=1z0j7ksZ1yx553eZ1z0j88r&Keyword=2200uf+100v&FS=True&Ns=Pricing|0 In particular, the Kemet cap at approx. $16 is a beauty! The only bugger with Mouser is that shipping is $25 or so, unless you spend over $60 and get free shipping. this would work? https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/4340813/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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