well another issue took me into the ceiling space ! raining today chasing a leak....got the d@mn roof repairer in last year they said fixed, of course they havent ! found the leak and getting him back tomorrow ! grrr ! 

 

anyways while at it checked out the LEDS from the ceiling space.

 

pushed the problem one down a tad and photo from below showing details

 

 

given the product code found product details on the web,

 

http://www.epassion-corp.com/LED-Down-Light/767.html

 

40,000 hours life my @rse !!!!

 

some more in ceiling shots from the other side,

 

 

seeing the level of heat sinking on the thing I doubt very much thats the issue ! 

 

photo of the driver for it showing details ...looks appropriately sized

 

as a note this is the 2nd LED downlight (the one that works)

 

and its driver, so obviously this LED is a smaller size one 10W I would think

 

in any case am looking at either a replaceable 10W LED I think or might as well go with the whole fitting now have the other one out. 

OT, have you joined Club Gyprock yet?

OT, have you joined Club Gyprock yet?

 

:lol: I think I inhaled enough of it ..so probably an honorary member without even knowing 

 

I think the note is there so can dial the 1800 once put your foot through by accident ! hehe

OT, have you joined Club Gyprock yet?

I know what the Gyp. Club is, Al doesn't want to go there 

Drivers a decent size but who knows what's in it cheap caps etc!

Also, it looks like the driver is covered in insulation - generally not recommended, should be placed on top or ideally on a nearby beam

Heatsinking looks okay too, but my money would be on a Chinese LED.

Shoot me a PM, I've got something you can swap in.

edit:

 

Whats going on with the cable at the bottom of the picture.

 

the 2.5TPS (white power cable) goes in, whats the other cable doing?

edit:

 

Whats going on with the cable at the bottom of the picture.

 

the 2.5TPS (white power cable) goes in, whats the other cable doing?

 

feeds the other driver that feeds the other light

Ahh got it. must be a tight squeeze for the terminals in that driver!

well another issue took me into the ceiling space ! raining today chasing a leak....got the d@mn roof repairer in last year they said fixed, of course they havent ! found the leak and getting him back tomorrow ! grrr ! 

 

anyways while at it checked out the LEDS from the ceiling space.

 

pushed the problem one down a tad and photo from below showing details

 

 

given the product code found product details on the web,

 

http://www.epassion-corp.com/LED-Down-Light/767.html[/size]

 

40,000 hours life my @rse !!!![/size]

 

40,000hrs guarantee......... ........in a landfill....

I haven't read through the whole thread, but have 43 people managed to change this bulb yet?

I haven't read through the whole thread, but have 43 people managed to change this bulb yet?

 

half changed ? looks like this now  we gave up on changing the light bulb by the way...it cant be changed 

 

Get a bigger hammer

Al, is it the LED/fitting that's failed or the transformer? Only asking as my experience with 12V halogens was that the transformers seldom lasted more than a year. Most died during summer, so presumably heat related.

   Next time that down light is set up ensure the driver and LED heat sink are not fully surrounded in thermal insulation.

There are commercially available covers big enough tho allow insulation abutment to them but allowing an air cavity to house the back of the light and driver.

Generally, if a driver is fully surrounded in thermal insulation, it will die, same for the LED heat sink

 

Usually a steal collar, 200mm high at 250mm diameter, the driver either sits in with the back of luminary or on a small piece of cement sheet on top of the insulation.

 

Furthermore, there must be no single insulated 240v cable exposed within the ceiling cavity to comply with regulations .

Edited January 21, 201610 yr by Guest

downlight_cover.jpg   Next time that down light is set up ensure the driver and LED heat sink are not fully surrounded in thermal insulation.

There are commercially available covers big enough tho allow insulation abutment to them but allowing an air cavity to house the back of the light and driver.

Generally, if a driver is fully surrounded in thermal insulation, it will die, same for the LED heat sink

 

Usually a steal collar, 200mm high at 250mm diameter, the driver either sits in with the back of luminary or on a small piece of cement sheet on top of the insulation.

 

Furthermore, there must be no single insulated 240v cable exposed within the ceiling cavity to comply with regulations .

From @@betty boop post 76, I'd say those pics have these parameters already covered. Regardless of what everyone thinks that it should be a quality non replaceable LED which it is, has a decent size heatsink; yes that's covered and everything installed at least 25mm away from any building structure and insulation: the pics definitely shows that and that no insulation blankets the LED assy or the SMPS, this thing still failed! Like I have indicated regardless of the specs I've seen them all failed whether you have high quality expensive non replaceable units or ones that have replaceable globes like the MR16.

If you walk into most of the Melbourne CBD nearly 60-70% of offices and lifts have converted there halogen lighting to LED, out of that approximation you will see at least one LED or a number of them "not on" when they are supposed to be on! Basically no different to halogen or compact fluoro failure, yet you will see that most are not cheap and most in an office environment will not have insulation surrounding them, especially in lifts, most are installed in the ceiling with at least 60cm cavity where wiring and airconditioning ducts are so they have plenty of breathable environment.

Interesting, as one of the pictures shows the Driver fully surrounded in Insulation.

Just my take as a developer and seller of LED Lighting, for the last 12 years. 

I have homes out there with LED lighting installation is 7/10 years old and never had a failure, they are all DC ELV run on sun and battery, 24v circuits  and the rest of the world is too stupid to catch up.

Edited January 21, 201610 yr by Guest

From @@betty boop post 76, I'd say those pics have these parameters already covered. Regardless of what everyone thinks that it should be a quality non replaceable LED which it is, has a decent size heatsink; yes that's covered and everything installed at least 25mm away from any building structure and insulation: the pics definitely shows that and that no insulation blankets the LED assy or the SMPS, this thing still failed! Like I have indicated regardless of the specs I've seen them all failed whether you have high quality expensive non replaceable units or ones that have replaceable globes like the MR16.

If you walk into most of the Melbourne CBD nearly 60-70% of offices and lifts have converted there halogen lighting to LED, out of that approximation you will see at least one LED or a number of them "not on" when they are supposed to be on! Basically no different to halogen or compact fluoro failure, yet you will see that most are not cheap and most in an office environment will not have insulation surrounding them, especially in lifts, most are installed in the ceiling with at least 60cm cavity where wiring and airconditioning ducts are so they have plenty of breathable environment.

 

you are correct in that it is all as it should be with insulation separated for one that failed. ironically the one thats ok is the one that has its driver inside the insulation.

 

as a question though. as I am very conscious about ceiling insulation. and thinking back there is going to be quite a bit of heat loss in to ceiling around those LEDs...dont like. same with heat into room downstairs when it is so bleeding hot up in the ceiling space. 

 

I'll have to do some reading on ways to get around that....its soon turning into lets change the house around the LED since we cant change the LED light bulb :D 

Al, is it the LED/fitting that's failed or the transformer? Only asking as my experience with 12V halogens was that the transformers seldom lasted more than a year. Most died during summer, so presumably heat related.

 

good question....I might be able to swap the driver feeding the dead one onto the working one and see if still works - will soon tell me if its the driver. either way I probably should replace the driver with the light fitting and LED ? this whole things is getting out of control hehe

Soon, @bettyboop, ah.....

.....got the light bulb changed yet?

Interesting, as one of the pictures shows the Driver fully surrounded in Insulation.

Just my take as a developer and seller of LED Lighting, for the last 12 years. 

I have homes out there with LED lighting installation is 7/10 years old and never had a failure, they are all DC ELV run on sun and battery, 24v circuits  and the rest of the world is too stupid to catch up.

 

yes the good one was covered..... 

Soon, @bettyboop, ah.....

.....got the light bulb changed yet?

 

easier to change house  

 

should I ring the RACV ?

Interesting, as one of the pictures shows the Driver fully surrounded in Insulation.

Just my take as a developer and seller of LED Lighting, for the last 12 years. 

I have homes out there with LED lighting installation is 7/10 years old and never had a failure, they are all DC ELV run on sun and battery, 24v circuits  and the rest of the world is too stupid to catch up.

To be honest, changing to LED isn't cheap, when they started to show up in the market The selection was also very limited in range and styling and bloody expensive. FWIW I use mainly Phillips E27 13W normal Batten fittings and haven't had any failures. But a good test are in office environments where they leave lights on at least 18hrs a day and in some where they are in hall ways never switched off. Most offices still run slim line fluros, downlights; halogen LED replacements are in entry's, hallways, kitchens and lifts etc.

This is a Warranty guide for LED Retro fits, came up with it after observing failures in field and after testing.

DC LED has sort of taken over from the mains stuff in the last couple of years and will be running with that as they are the most reliable, by far. Something taken on alone among the big boys and still going strong with the same Manufacturer + one other, in China.

 

Retro fitting is the way to go if the fittings are in reasonable condition, bear in mind though a halogen MR16 fitting is worth about $3.

 

 

ELECTRIC_FIX_Seller_and_Consumer_Warranty_19-07-11_REV04.pdf

Al, is it the LED/fitting that's failed or the transformer? Only asking as my experience with 12V halogens was that the transformers seldom lasted more than a year. Most died during summer, so presumably heat related.

@@Quark well I think you struck gold there !

Back in the roof this morning while raining to check the d@mn roof has in fact fixed the leak....which is good. Also decided to run the other working led off the non working LEDs driver. Well guess what doesn't work !!!

So chance are here i have a perfectly good led light itself needs no replacement will get to claimed 40,000 hours but a blown driver instead.

Now interestingly this driver was on top of insulation not impeded by airflow or anything. It's specs say happily lives in 45-75 deg c it's suitable by looks but still failed ?

One thing I think to put in perspective...this is our master bedroom en suite which has the two LEDs it's a north facing room with most of the north side a big window...as result we hardly even ever use the light. Eg no use this morning and in the whole of yesterday it was probably used less that 5min before bed. So seriously I think some of this talk of heat and heat sinking ....I very much doubt there is much if any impacting on these things ! This isn't a office installation where the lights are left on 24/7 !!!

Am very disappointed anything has failed, but good to narrow down to just the driver. A trip to local electrical distributor should sort that

Glad you got it sorted Al. I'll be interested to hear how you go with the replacement - I gave all our low voltage lights the flick years ago.