How many roadies?

Tchueww tchueew

Ah thats like

 

How Australians does it take to change a light bulb.

 

5....One to change the bulb and 4 to say "on ya mate"

 

On ya Betty..

I got it wrong. I thought the answer was to say "about bloody time"

Edited January 18, 201610 yr by legselevens

I got it wrong. I thought the answer was to say "about bloody time"

 

I thought it would be more like "changin' a light bulb mate?"

I got it wrong. I thought the answer was to say "about bloody time"

No that's what the missus says.

Mates are much more encouraging. Thats why we hang out here.

Sorry. I thought these days we wait for someone else to sort it out and whinge if it ain't done for free.   

I would advise against getting 'replacable' globes.

 

LED's by nature generate heat. Any replacable globe doesn't have enough heatsinking for a decent LED.

 

A quality one piece unit will last longer, be brighter and more efficient

Sorry. I thought these days we wait for someone else to sort it out and whinge if it ain't done for free. 

 

Thus this thread

I would advise against getting 'replacable' globes.

 

LED's by nature generate heat. Any replacable globe doesn't have enough heatsinking for a decent LED.

 

A quality one piece unit will last longer, be brighter and more efficient

 

The thread would indicate......

Apparently not !!

I would advise against getting 'replacable' globes.

LED's by nature generate heat. Any replacable globe doesn't have enough heatsinking for a decent LED.

A quality one piece unit will last longer, be brighter and more efficient

Sounds like you are confusing LEDs and Halogen. The latter run hot, while LEDs are cool to the touch.

Sounds like you are confusing LEDs and Halogen. The latter run hot, while LEDs are cool to the touch.

 

if google LED downlight you'll see quite a few have quite elaborate heatsinking arrangements. maybe they are the tight clustered high powered ones I dont know. I dont particularly need a very bright one. we have a couple of LED downlight in this bathroom thats about 2m by 3m so not a huge space and mainly with bright white reflecting surfaces. so single LED low wattage probably suffice.

 

have no idea if that means it needs to have this kind of heavy heatsinks or not. 

Always a good thing to light well a bathroom, so as the Mrs can apply correct color make up, true story

 

Your local Electrical Wholesaler would probably give you the best solution as they provide Electrical Contractors with lighting solutions from reputable/compliant Manufacturers.

 

The latest ones are super efficient and can be abutted to thermal insulation, IMHO would avoid Light Retailers (rip off) and overgrown hardware shops (cheap rubbish) for the standard LED Down lighter. 

 

10 watts would be a minimum in 1 fitting is my suggestion for a bathroom, I generally provide a ceiling fan and a 12w flush sealed LED downlight (flood @4500K) or a Tastic. 

hi matt, yeah one we put in was plenty but wife initially questioned so we added the 2nd LED in for good measure...good thing we did, since the 1st one failing if we didnt have the 2nd we'd have no light there at all

my plan to pull the failed one out over the weekend. I hope no need to enter the roof. we are having a super hot spell here. so roof is one place wouldnt want to get into right now !

Sounds like you are confusing LEDs and Halogen. The latter run hot, while LEDs are cool to the touch.

Indesign and manufacture LED's for a living.

LED's being 'cool' is a fallacy, they are cool only with regard so my he fact that they don't produce infra red waves.

The back side of an LED requires heat sinking to keep cool.

Be careful referring to LED output in wattages as it no longer refers to their light output accurately.

The unit of measurement for output is lumens, early LED's were only getting 60 lumens per watt, current ones are up to 150 lumens per watt. So a '10 watt' downlight can be 600 lumens or 1500 lumens depending on the quality of the LED's

Another factor to consider is the colour rendering (CRI), cheaper LED's will have a poor colour rendering index meaning they will reproduce colour averagely, better LED's will have a CRI of 85 or higher.

My preference is to go with single LED fittings, not the multi chip clusters, this is more of an aesthetics thing than a my thing else.

If you want a good quality light fitting that you can pickup from a wholesaler try the Brightgreen D700. They are our direct competition in that market but they use good quality LED's. Wholesalers will generally push the company/product that gives them the highest margin or best rebate scheme - if you've got the time and inclination I'd advise to select what you want and get the wholesaler to order it in for you instead. Otherwise shoot me a PM

Indesign and manufacture LED's for a living.

LED's being 'cool' is a fallacy, they are cool only with regard so my he fact that they don't produce infra red waves.

The back side of an LED requires heat sinking to keep cool.

Be careful referring to LED output in wattages as it no longer refers to their light output accurately.

The unit of measurement for output is lumens, early LED's were only getting 60 lumens per watt, current ones are up to 150 lumens per watt. So a '10 watt' downlight can be 600 lumens or 1500 lumens depending on the quality of the LED's

Another factor to consider is the colour rendering (CRI), cheaper LED's will have a poor colour rendering index meaning they will reproduce colour averagely, better LED's will have a CRI of 85 or higher.

My preference is to go with single LED fittings, not the multi chip clusters, this is more of an aesthetics thing than a my thing else.

If you want a good quality light fitting that you can pickup from a wholesaler try the Brightgreen D700. They are our direct competition in that market but they use good quality LED's. Wholesalers will generally push the company/product that gives them the highest margin or best rebate scheme - if you've got the time and inclination I'd advise to select what you want and get the wholesaler to order it in for you instead. Otherwise shoot me a PM

I just googled Brightgreen D700, cost: $49-59. Only 3 places in Melbourne sells them!!! Not exactly mainstream.

With downlights, or any light fittings, I'm not a fan of cutting into the ceiling and resizing the fittings. The trouble with LEDs and light fittings in general is that I will always purchased the product where it's doable and easy to do when a situation like this arises. Regardless of what the manufacturers claims and I have seen some wide claims that it will last 30,000hrs and you get 20yrs out of them etc. I've seen expensive high price high quality LEDs die and need replacement in many commercial and home display environments. I strongly suggest that you get common fittings where you can buy replacement LEDs and not the housing where brands such as Philips Osram and other common household brands that are likely to produced that replacement LED for a number of year. People changes address or renovate every 6-7 yrs on average, by that time the better 1/2 is going to say I'm done with this and you are up for $3-5k of light fittings. But by 6-7 years the LED lighting industry may or may not have progressed with better environmentally friendly products and a whole new technologies are developed. So for the meantime, I would be buying the ones that are easily replaceable and accessible from outlets in your area.

Philips and OSRAM aren't well respected led manufacturers, they simply have the lighting name from traditional lighting.

OSRAM had a product that the market nicknamed the hand grenade because on average they lasted about 2 minutes.

Philips just completed a massive recall of its retrofit led gloves too.

As someone who designs and makes the fittings I advise against using the retrofit globes or any with replaceable parts. They simply cannot perform with the efficiency and lifetime of a properly built stand-alone unit.

I have 10 fittings in my house from 5 years ago, never skipped a beat.

Brightgreen should have more than 3 stockist in Melbourne, they are a Melbourne based company! Any electrical wholesaler will be able to supply them.

Most residential LED's will have hole sizes of 72,76 or 92mm which are the same sizes as halogens used to be. Most now are also supplied with flex and plug. Whenever I install lights I build a daisy chain with quick connect plug bases and connect that up to the original wiring. To install the fittings it's simply a case of putting them in the hole and plugging then in.

Once the wiring is there, if ever you want to replace them, pull the fitting downwards, unplug it, plug in the new fitting and push it into the hole. Extremely simply and means you don't have to compromise on design for retrofit globes.

Philips and OSRAM aren't well respected led manufacturers, they simply have the lighting name from traditional lighting.

OSRAM had a product that the market nicknamed the hand grenade because on average they lasted about 2 minutes.

Philips just completed a massive recall of its retrofit led gloves too.

As someone who designs and makes the fittings I advise against using the retrofit globes or any with replaceable parts. They simply cannot perform with the efficiency and lifetime of a properly built stand-alone unit.

I have 10 fittings in my house from 5 years ago, never skipped a beat.

Brightgreen should have more than 3 stockist in Melbourne, they are a Melbourne based company! Any electrical wholesaler will be able to supply them.

Most residential LED's will have hole sizes of 72,76 or 92mm which are the same sizes as halogens used to be. Most now are also supplied with flex and plug. Whenever I install lights I build a daisy chain with quick connect plug bases and connect that up to the original wiring. To install the fittings it's simply a case of putting them in the hole and plugging then in.

Once the wiring is there, if ever you want to replace them, pull the fitting downwards, unplug it, plug in the new fitting and push it into the hole. Extremely simply and means you don't have to compromise on design for retrofit globes.

Interesting, I'm rolling out (for quite a few years) an ELV DC Range of LED Lighting, 6/35vdc. They are reliable, run cooler than a mains powered LED Luminary and at safer voltages (for humans), best of all powered directly via a battery, on solar, amazingly efficient. Clusters of 3528 Edison + a few others, an old die but stable and good color render. Poor quality components on Driver circuits and over heating are responsible for most of the LED luminary failures. 99% of the new B22 Retro fit Globes below 2000Lm or 20w (corn cobs) come with no heat sink these days.

Edited January 18, 201610 yr by Guest

100% on the failures there. Crappy drivers and overheating are the biggest problems. Most LED's will happily last 50,000 hours, finding a driver to last that long is the problem.

There isn't many AC LED's on the market yet. The ones we manufacture are 37v constant voltage. Obviously they have a 240v driver to power them off mains though.

I love the LED's direct off solar, how are you converting from 12/24v to 35?

Edison have a good range of mid market products, we use some of their components for our flexible strip.

You should have a look into the LG G3 LED's, similar drive parameters, tight binning (3 step macadams) and are available in over 150lm/w packages.

And yes, lots of retrofit globes have little or no heatsinking, worst of all they package the driver in the middle of the heatsink, where it can comfortably cook and simultaneously produce more thermal stress on the LEDs.

Interesting discussion. We just moved into a new place (OK, 4 months) and got the halogens replaced by LEDs. Not the freebies, so I'm hoping we get some good use out of them, especially considering there are 44 of them around the house! Whatever happened to standard old light fittings?

 

Hope you're doing OK, there, betty!

100% on the failures there. Crappy drivers and overheating are the biggest problems. Most LED's will happily last 50,000 hours, finding a driver to last that long is the problem.

There isn't many AC LED's on the market yet. The ones we manufacture are 37v constant voltage. Obviously they have a 240v driver to power them off mains though.

I love the LED's direct off solar, how are you converting from 12/24v to 35?

Edison have a good range of mid market products, we use some of their components for our flexible strip.

You should have a look into the LG G3 LED's, similar drive parameters, tight binning (3 step macadams) and are available in over 150lm/w packages.

And yes, lots of retrofit globes have little or no heatsinking, worst of all they package the driver in the middle of the heatsink, where it can comfortably cook and simultaneously produce more thermal stress on the LEDs.

Rectifier less SMPS

The DC LED range has come a long way and less than 1% failure rate of sold product, Generally they just don't present any type of problem.

I can't believe you guys singling out LEDS as being hot when Halogens are like mini suns.

as stupid this seems :lol:

 

anyone here know about LED downlights....

 

am just not sure if this one we put in the bathroom last year is replaceable ? it started to flicker and then just went poop.

 

these seem to swivel, but am unclear if the actual LED part can be pulled out ? there seem to be two types of prongs that LED downlight use and unclear with these ones.

 

just hoping someone is familiar wiht the brand or knows these and can let me know how to change the led out. 

 

I'm hoping I dont have to change the whole fitment !!!

 

thanks in advance.

Al, the ones I have changed went like this, there is a little round cover that you turn maybe a quarter turn and it comes out. The whole housing should not turn.

This give you access to the bulb itself and yes, you need to work out if it is prong or thread. the rest is quite simple.

I can't believe you guys singling out LEDS as being hot when Halogens are like mini suns.

 

Different Directions. Halogens are hot on the front, LED's are hot on the back.

 

The LED's on that gets to 65°C in a 25° room. Without that heatsink the LED's would be cooking (until they suddenly stopped working).

Rule of thumb @@betty boop

If you can see a bulb it's replaceable

If you see a permanent glass cover then the whole unit is replaced

About 2 years ago I had 12 down lights replaced when we did the kitchen with Atom brand

They sell both types I mentioned above but the electrician fitted the replaceable bulb type

But I wish they went with the permanent seal units as I have had several bulbs blow on me , and replaced under warrantee

I can't believe you guys singling out LEDS as being hot when Halogens are like mini suns.

Just for you mate

Interesting discussion. We just moved into a new place (OK, 4 months) and got the halogens replaced by LEDs. Not the freebies, so I'm hoping we get some good use out of them, especially considering there are 44 of them around the house! Whatever happened to standard old light fittings?

 

Hope you're doing OK, there, betty!

 

only two led down lights in our place CE. and both in the bathroom so we are ok

 

one what was a simple query… with this thread ….I have seen the light

 

seriously I now pity people in the current climate of door to door salesman coming through and getting people converted over from halogen to LEDs…if LEDs being put in are cheap sh!te…that in one to two years will need replacement…and by that I mean wholesale replacement….with the fly by night companies be around that are doing these conversions….am thinking the solar and ceiling insulation shonks….that all dissapered once the funding did the same.

 

I can't believe you guys singling out LEDS as being hot when Halogens are like mini suns.

 

halogens used to cause fires isn't it… I don't think they ran cool !!!

 

Al, the ones I have changed went like this, there is a little round cover that you turn maybe a quarter turn and it comes out. The whole housing should not turn.

This give you access to the bulb itself and yes, you need to work out if it is prong or thread. the rest is quite simple.

 

hoping the case darren, but don't like my chances…. as tried some finger pressure to try turn the light inside the housing but it won't budge. but i'll try again….