Ruffy Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 Hi Gurus, I had a bit of a win today (I think) and have ended up with a Linn Sondek LP12 Export. I haven't tried to powered it up yet so have no idea if it works or not. I have no vinyl whatsoever (all digital) and don't know if I will keep it yet, I guess if I get it running and have a listen I will rethink my want to keep it. So, I have a few questions. - I know they can be readily upgraded so I am wondering if what I have is original? - What is different about the export model? - Is this an MM or MC cartridge. I have a Brio-R, will its phono stage work for me? - I see it has a non-australian plug, is this model 240V (no stickers on it at all)? Is there any reason I can't take it apart and wire in a decent power cable? - I have read they can be a pig to set up, does anyone have an instruction manual they can scan or a website they can direct me to which has step by step details on this? And lastly, any info you can share or anything I should be aware of would be greatly appreciated! As I said, this is my first foray into vinyl whatsoever and it may be very short lived if this doesn't work. For now I am staring at this thing in awe (us younger kids know records are cool) with no real idea of how to get the best out of it. Cheers, Andrew
Sir Triode Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 (edited) Did you test it when you bought it? Was it purchased from a local who can vouch that it was used in Australia? Looks like an SME 3009 MKIII arm with a Shure V15 Type three MM cartridge. If your Brio has an MM phonostage - then it would work. Check out vinylengine.com for manuals for all three items. http://www.vinylengine.com/library/linn/lp-12-sondek.shtml http://www.vinylengine.com/library/sme/series-iii.shtml http://www.vinylengine.com/library/shure/v15.shtml Edited May 6, 2014 by Sir Triode
oldrose Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 From memory the Export model was originally meant for the US market, the picture of your plug looks like a US plug so I would assume it is a 110V model. It's an early model and it seems in original condition except for the missing plastic lid holder that fits into the slot on the plinth. The cartridge is a Shure Moving Magnet and will work on your Brio-R. The SME arm was very nice in its day. You can of course upgrade the entire deck to current standards at significant $$$
Ruffy Posted May 6, 2014 Author Posted May 6, 2014 Thanks for the speedy reply gents! I acquired it 'as is, condition unknown'. I have found out that the input voltage is listed next to the serial number, I will have to take it apart to find out. If it is 110V, should I get a voltage regulator or look at converting it to a 240V model? Thanks for the links too, it is very much appreciated! 1
Equaliser Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 (edited) If it is a 110v unit all you need is a 240-110v step down transformer, that turntable won't pull any more then 25watts from the mains so a 50-100watt step down trafo unit will suffice as minimum (good to have some headroom in-case you sell off the turntable and decide to power some other foreign voltage units). Sometimes vintage 100/110v units have internal jumpers to switch between various primary winding mains voltages so you can verify this as well. Edited May 6, 2014 by DefQon
Sir Triode Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 Is the motor AC or DC in the LP12? If the motor is AC - you might have an issue with the different frequencies between 110 and 240. 60hz vs 50hz. 1
Chill3 Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 (edited) IF it is US model then it all be 110 60hz were 240 50hz so the turntable will not run at the direct speed, early models had now separate power supply and the motor is simply locked to the mains frequency. If you could get a AUS Vahalla power supply there easy to fit Opps Sir types faster than me Edited May 6, 2014 by Chill3
oldrose Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 Thanks for the speedy reply gents! I acquired it 'as is, condition unknown'. I have found out that the input voltage is listed next to the serial number, I will have to take it apart to find out. If it is 110V, should I get a voltage regulator or look at converting it to a 240V model? Thanks for the links too, it is very much appreciated! The serial number was on a sticker on the back of the plinth (yours is missing which is unsurprising in a deck of this age). Be very careful if you take the bottom off to look at the power supply as they are open and can potentially have lethal charge. Being an AC motor it will not provide the correct speed with a step down transformer (again from memory, there are replacement pulleys that may solve this problem).
Telecine Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 Best guess is that you have a late 1970's, early 1980's Sondek in original condition. It has the original power supply from that era. There are numerous upgrades available. I would strongly recommend that you try to find someone knowledgeable to service it before you use it. 1
andyr Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 Thanks for the speedy reply gents! I acquired it 'as is, condition unknown'. I have found out that the input voltage is listed next to the serial number, I will have to take it apart to find out. If it is 110V, should I get a voltage regulator or look at converting it to a 240V model? Thanks for the links too, it is very much appreciated! The illuminated, red square On/Off button shows that it's the original 33rpm-only PS (for AC) but a 110v unit will have a 60Hz AC motor fitted - which is no good in 50Hz-mains Oz. So you will have to get a new motor; last time I priced one, it was A$300 ... and there's been a significant price increase, since then. The PS itself is no great shakes - a resistor and a cap, so whoever revamps your LP12 so you can use it here, will be able to take care of that. I actually have a 50Hz motor available, which I bought in late 2012 - and haven't used for the last 12 months - which, if you decide to go through with your plan of getting your LP12 Export to work, I could sell you for A$200, including postage to NT. Good luck, Andy
Ruffy Posted May 6, 2014 Author Posted May 6, 2014 Thanks Telecine, for what little it owes me though I am not overly keen at throwing money at it. I started full time uni this year at 29 with a wife, child and mortgage so am not flush with cash. From what I have googled (feel free to correct), if I can find a cheap valhalla supply board it will magically fix my power issues?
Ruffy Posted May 6, 2014 Author Posted May 6, 2014 Thanks Andyr. This is all becoming way too much for me to take on with commitments to a med degree, family and work. I think I may sell it to someone who can give it the time and resources it deserves!
Ruffy Posted May 6, 2014 Author Posted May 6, 2014 Andyr, can I test it somehow? It has an NT number scratched in the back which suggests at some time it may have been used up here, could it have been wrong the whole time?
Telecine Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 (edited) Thanks Telecine, for what little it owes me though I am not overly keen at throwing money at it. I started full time uni this year at 29 with a wife, child and mortgage so am not flush with cash. From what I have googled (feel free to correct), if I can find a cheap valhalla supply board it will magically fix my power issues? Understood. It looks like a Euro Power plug to me, not US. It therefore will be 230 V and run here no problems. Get a plug adaptor or get an Australian plug fitted. A useful resource for setting these up is available here: http://forums.linn.co.uk/bb/showthread.php?tid=9941 You will need to lube the bearing annd adjust the springs at least. When you can manage it, a new set of springs, gromets and nuts should be purchased and fitted. That will come to about $100 from a Linn dealer. Download the manual for the SME Series III arm so that you can set that up. Vinyl engine has a lot of great information, including free protractors to setup the cart and arm: http://www.vinylengine.com/ There is plenty of free help available if you persevere. If you get sick of it, let me know, I might be interested in it. Edited May 6, 2014 by Telecine
ophool Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 Apart from the deck itself, the cartridge/stylus needs to be checked - at least visually, before trying to play a record with it. 1
progladyte Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 As Ophool has just said the cartridge needs to be checked. My initial look at those photos showed some "crusting" on the head shell which may lead to problems / erratic connections. I don't know if the damage is permanent or if will even affect you but to be sure, I'd factor in some costs in getting the cartridge rewired to the head-shell. I spent $40 on having my cart rewired on an old Thorens 166 and the hi fi guy said it sounded better than the LP12 he had in his shop. Go figure!
Number 9 Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 The US plug was probably fitted to allow the use of the AC outlets on the back of a pre-amp or amp. I'd take a punt and plug the sucker in. 1
Telecine Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 The US plug was probably fitted to allow the use of the AC outlets on the back of a pre-amp or amp. I'd take a punt and plug the sucker in. Agreed but it is a Euro plug so almost certainly a 240 V unit.
Number 9 Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 Agreed but it is a Euro plug so almost certainly a 240 V unit. The EU plugs have round pins.
Telecine Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 The EU plugs have round pins. Thought that they were round from the photo but you are right, they might be flat.
Gordon Macfarlane Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 (edited) Seen a few Australian Sondeks with these crappy cables and plugs. My advice is ditch the whole cable and fit a new 3 core mains lead with the earth attatched via circular ferrule to the back bolt that runs from the top plate through the wood block at the back centre of the tt. I would also have someone make a new power supply board for you ( not complicated and should not be expensive). You can pick up a 50hz Sondek motor and pulley cheaply from ebay uk. Sondeks are not complicated to set up but it is best to let an experinced Sondek fettler do the job. Edited May 6, 2014 by Ozcall 1
Sir Triode Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 (edited) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LINN-SONDEK-LP12-TURNTABLE-MOTOR-/321394839720?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Turntables&hash=item4ad4a010a8 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Linn-Sondek-LP12-Motor-/291137528205?pt=Turntable_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43c926218d Pretty Cheap! Check and compare the sticker on the ones in the ads with the motor in yours first. You may have a 240V model motor in it already. Edited May 6, 2014 by Sir Triode
Tasebass Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 Hi Ruffy. virtually everything you need to know about Sondeks can be found here....http://www.cymbiosis.com/content/pages/advice/downloads scroll down to "Set up Guides"....study it well. Be prepared though as getting the best out of your new purchase will mean handing over some cash!!!! But you will have a nice sounding deck when properly sorted. good luck. ATB Tase. 1
andyr Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 (edited) From what I have googled (feel free to correct), if I can find a cheap valhalla supply board it will magically fix my power issues? No - you've been told (by several people and as a med student, I would've expected it to sink in! ) - if it is a USA unit, the (60Hz) motor won't spin at the right speed in Oz. OTOH, if it is a European unit - they use 50Hz power like we do in Oz - so the motor will spin at the correct speed. I think you said it has a mains plug? Can't you identify whether it is US or Europe? (I presume you know what an Oz plug looks like? ) Good luck, Andy Edited May 6, 2014 by andyr
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