Marantz Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Grab yourself a Joytech Trilink for HDMI switching. Cheap as chip and does a good job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solster Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 johnnyrs;55435 wrote: My 42" is a sweat saver ... now, to watch a biggish screen in the heat of summer, I don't have to pull all the curtains to darken the room. We've watched the projector once in the last fortnight instead of once every day or 2.... LOL, how true!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyrs Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 marantz;55437 wrote: Grab yourself a Joytech Trilink for HDMI switching. Cheap as chip and does a good job. Hey Marantz, any idea where to get one of these? Noel Leemings don't appear to stock them any more... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathan1553552671 Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 johnnyrs;55443 wrote: Hey Marantz, any idea where to get one of these? Noel Leemings don't appear to stock them any more... A google shows that Dickless Smith has them listed for $70, but has none in stock - I'm sure you can order one from your local store though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marantz Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 johnnyrs;55443 wrote: Hey Marantz, any idea where to get one of these? Noel Leemings don't appear to stock them any more... You could try DS Powerhouse in Sylvia Park. They had some left not too long ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marantz Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 minimoke;55222 wrote: In their brochure Panasonic say: "Its true image retention can happen. But it will only happen under the highly rare condition that a high contrast still image is continuously displayed for a very long time. Image retention isn't going to happen from normal use". I picked one up recently and am very pleased with it. Have set it so that: Under general set up - Side Panel = High (to reduce risk of image retention.) Under picture set up: Menu = Cinema Contrast = 58 Brightness = 63 Colour = 50 Sharpness = 50 Colour temperature = Standard Colour Management = On MPEG NR = Off. I prefer the colour when the TV is played through HDMI cable to the DVD Recorder channels rather than through the TV aerial (which is also connected to the DVD) as the colours are a bit red / bold and unnatural. I suspect this is more a problem with the aerial wiring than the TV. Once Freeview comes I'll calibrate properly with the HDMI cables properly set up and use a mix of DVD Essentials and the Optimiser which comes with THX DVD's like "The Incredibles". What did you use to arrive at these settings? Was it a calibration disc like DVE? Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minimoke Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 marantz;55474 wrote: What did you use to arrive at these settings? Was it a calibration disc like DVE? Cheers. I've used both DV Essentials and the THX Optimizer. I'm not too fixed on these settings yet as the TV has to go through its supposed break in period during which time I hope the Freeview Terrestrial will come on stream. Once this happens I'll settle everything down with HDMI cables and a switcher and at each component (TV, DVD Recorder, Freeview and my Oppo). I've found it a challenge as I have the video running through composite cable, the Oppo through Component and the DVD recorder/TV channels through HDMI cable while the TV is on an Aerial running through the DVD Recorder. On top of this no TV station and each country seems to produce TV programmes, each with different colouring's. USA programmes seem to be a bit red and UK programmes generally seem a bit better if not a bit dark. Local tv, like CTV, can't be relied upon so you have to go back to DVE and the THX optimizer to set the base standard. And then setting it up for the Video input as well as the Oppo and the DVD recorder all make for a challenge - hence why I am leaving my final settings until FreeeView when I'll get it all sorted out finally. Certainly the factory settings under any of their standard configurations don't work so its a matter of tweaking from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyrs Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 PV70 bargain... $1998 at Appliance Shed but an extra $200 redemption offer so, for you, just $1798. Bargain!!!! They have the PV7 for just $20 cheaper. The reason? The boxes have been damaged! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyrs Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 PV7 is $1599 at JB HiFi!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathan1553552671 Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 Going by johnnyrs’ previous postings, there are good deals to be had on both the PV7 and PV70, which leaves me interested but confused! I am keen on the PV7, however have some concerns over the lack of HDMI inputs: over the next while we’ll be wanting to purchase an upscaling DVD player (unless Blu-ray become affordable in the meantime) AND a Freeview DTV-T decoder, hence would need two HDMI inputs to be able to pass on a HD signal. Therefore my question is: which should we go for? The PV7, with the presumably additional cost of a HDMI switcher like the Joytech Trilink, or the PV70, with the twin HDMI inputs? I guess there’s always the possibility of needing a third HDMI inputs in the end, so possibly the Trilink offers the better upgrading path anyway? Or are there any other particular reasons why we should purchase the PV70 over the PV7? Any thoughts gratefully received! Cheers Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marantz Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 The PV7 is an excellent screen and at $1599 is a true bargain. I wouldn't worry about having two HDMI inputs and would op for the Trilink which is the setup I have. At least you have three HDMI inputs with this which should see you sorted in the short to medium term. If only Joytech would make a version with twin outputs for those of us running projectors as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradox1553552678 Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 jonathan;58831 wrote: Therefore my question is: which should we go for? The PV7, with the presumably additional cost of a HDMI switcher like the Joytech Trilink, or the PV70, with the twin HDMI inputs? I guess there’s always the possibility of needing a third HDMI inputs in the end, so possibly the Trilink offers the better upgrading path anyway? Or are there any other particular reasons why we should purchase the PV70 over the PV7? The PV70 also has an anti-glare screen. I looked at them both and bought the PV7. It seems there will be more and more use of HDMI - I'll probably use a switch when I need one, or wait until mid-range AVRs feature HDMI 4 in/2 out and upgrade then. I don't notice a huge visual difference between HDMI and component on the PV7. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little blue penguin Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 I've also got the PV7 and love it. As for the number of HDMI inputs; it really comes down to how you want to configure your system. Personally I treat the TV as just a monitor, and expect all switching to be done by the AV Amp. Although the TV should be able to decode the audio signal on the HDMI input, would this audio be of sufficient quality to feed to your AV Amp. IMO the HDMI signal should go first to the AV Amp and then be passed to the TV. Ultimately that's the logical configuration we should be aiming for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyrs Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 How have you PV7 owners found the picture setup. I don't know if I'm really happy with the setup and find myself having to occasionally adjust the settings. They hover around 50 for each with sharpness quite low... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marantz Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 johnnyrs;58850 wrote: How have you PV7 owners found the picture setup. I don't know if I'm really happy with the setup and find myself having to occasionally adjust the settings. They hover around 50 for each with sharpness quite low... I calibrated mine after aroung 100 hours with DVE. The settings I have ended up with are: Mode: Cinema Contrast: 65 Brightness: 48 Coulour: 63 Sharpness: 50 Colour temp: STD This is what works for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyrs Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 Thanks Marantz, I'll give them a go when the kids are not watching! I've tried that THX setting thing on DVDs but I find it a bit hard to see differences with the settings most of the time - old eyes, I think. I guess your settings are for a DVD/HD player. If you have a SKY box, do you find the settings are much lower (I do)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marantz Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 johnnyrs;58865 wrote: I guess your settings are for a DVD/HD player. If you have a SKY box, do you find the settings are much lower (I do)? Yes they are for dvd. I don't use sky but have a freeview box so I just run with the same settings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyrs Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 Marantz, The settings have worked fantastically. Both for DVD & Sky. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marantz Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 johnnyrs;58908 wrote: Marantz, The settings have worked fantastically. Both for DVD & Sky. Cheers Glad I could help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyrs Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 I'm waiting for the wife & kids to notice the difference. In vain, I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradox1553552678 Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 marantz;58863 wrote: I calibrated mine after aroung 100 hours with DVE. The settings I have ended up with are: Mode: Cinema Contrast: 65 Brightness: 48 Coulour: 63 Sharpness: 50 Colour temp: STD This is what works for me. I use similar settings but my room is probably different. I used DVE initially but altered it based on 'eyeballing': Mode: Cinema Contrast: 65 Brightness: 50 Colour: 55 Sharpness: 50 Colour temp: STD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Beale Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 Sometimes it is very difficult to see improvements with the brightness, contrast, colour,(for some tint) and sharpness basic optimisation controls. To understand them though so you know what to look for helps to see the differences and point them out to others. Brightness and contrast are your dynamic range, where brightness is your black point control. The black portion is more percievable to us to distern a difference. The white end or contrast is actually very difficult to see a visual difference when right or wrong. Look for details in shadows that where crushed(all black) but are viewable with new settings. Colour and possibly tint are really the volume and balance control for the image. In reality the correct level for colour when viewing through a blue filter is where the portion of blue of white is equal to the level of blue alone. If the decoder is working correctly and the primaries are correct to reference standards setting the colour with the filters will yield a reasonbly accurate result. Look for skin tone clues for accuracy. That sharpness control is a legacy control which came about due to problems with CRT technology. All it does is add information that isnt meant to be there. The correct set point is where you can just remove the information it creates, go too far and you can softern the image. Go to high and you will add ringing to your image. It is not until you set the advanced controls that you yield the greatest viewable differences. A note about the idea of calibration, we are like moths, we like bright colourful images and sometimes we want to see more of this when you calibrate your display. The reality is that calibration is about accuracy to reference standards. If the image is shot with a natural feel this can look a little bland to the viewer with an accurate display. However your brain has to work less when viewing the accurate image. In a way calibration of the image and sound for that matter has 3 camps, those who like distortion, those who don't really care and those like their world to be more natural. What you like depends on your reality you like to live in. Although, most that see and hear the differences in comparison see for themselves and tend towards the more real feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyrs Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 Thanks Masterpiece, I played and played with Brightness and contrast and while it would work on some scenes (eg daylight) it wouldn't with others (eg dark scenes). The settings Marantz gave me have been so much better than my amateurish fiddling and I see they're basically the same as paradox's bar colour. I agree that most peopl like the overbright, staturated look. My children and wife LOVE dynamic settings. The other night we were watching a film shot mostly in the desert. The picture was incredibly overblown and I realised someone had set the projector to Dynamic. When I set it to one of the normal settings, I got told the picture was too "dark". What can you do? In your experience do the settings between units of the same model vary very much? - If not, I'm tempted to ask PNZ (our panasonic inside agent) to publish what he's found to be best settings of his display range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gfkBill Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 johnnyrs;58935 wrote: When I set it to one of the normal settings, I got told the picture was too "dark". What can you do? Do what all real men do - Own the remote! Fortunately I have my lot well trained now, but I sympathise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Beale Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Brightness and contast is set for the viewing conditions, in daylight you might be a few clicks higher than night time. Night time viewing you want to lower contrast as not to burn your eyes out. Im not kidding either, like sound you can be to loud too long, contrast or white levels can be to high for the total viewing conditions. A note though, contrast generally pivots off the brightness set point and thus are interactive. Raising brightness can clip the contrast, lowering can leave headroom to expand the dynamic range. New (accurate) settings takes time to adjust to, they have been watching overdriven levels for a long time. I suggest taking them slowly to correct levels. Start in dynamic mode, but set the levels down, step by step over a few weeks. then once they are used to it setup the normal mode. each disply can vary, depends on normal tolerances and age of the equipment. however some controls are so crude step by step that you wont discern a difference between displays. Use a test disk for your own setup, always best. Considering the price that one spends on gear whats the point in not spending a little on setup. (or get some one in with reference and measurement gear...like me....punt punt) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts