Wall Mounting Guide 101

[diesel]

On 23 April 2017 at 5:35 PM, browny said:

wheres the guide?

Here's an early version I saved many many years ago....

I'll update the links etc as time permits

Fellow DTV members and readers, below is a guide I have put together to try and answer some of the queries we get on the forum from users looking for wall mounting advice. It’s a start and maybe I can get it pinned as a sticky, but I welcome any feedback to try and improve the content,.

Cheers Mick.

 

 

WALL MOUNT INSTALLATION GUIDE 101

 

Well done!

So you have bought your new flat panel TV and now would like to mount it on the wall. Where do you start…?

What Height?
Which Wall Mount?
Suppliers:
Ready to Install?
Links:

Which Wall Mount?
There are a few different types of wall mounts
1. Fixed – usually small profile (~50-90mm) and do not allow any movement of the panel once mounted in position.
Pros: they are neat and have the panel sitting very close to the wall.
Cons: connecting new cables and rear ventilation may be an issue
2. Tilt – larger profile than fixed and allow downward tilt of 15⁰-30⁰ (some also allow upward tilt.
Pros: can reduce reflections on plasma screens by tilting downward. Allow easier movement for adding new cables in the future
Cons: usually stick out from the wall a little more that a fixed mount - ~90-150mm
3. Articulated – fully flexible mount that can tilt and swivel in a wide range
Pros: big range of movement that allows user to position screen to their liking
Cons: more expensive than fixed or tilt mount. Can have a larger profile than tilt mounts.
4. Ceiling – designed more for work/office environments
Pros: don’t need a wall nearby to mount. Keep the screen up high out of harms way. Have ample room inside the tubing for cabling
Cons: Screens are fairly high. Not ideal for HT use.

Suppliers:

TV Manufacturers can supply OEM wall mounts, though most TVs come with the table top stand as standard equipment. Wall mounts are usually an extra item but manufacturer wall mounts are usually very overpriced (~$700) when considered against aftermarket suppliers.

Some aftermarket manufacturers are;

Selby Acoustics - http://www.selbyacoustics.com.au/storefrontprofiles/deluxeSFshop.aspx?sid=1&sfid=74520&c=84142

Skunkworks - http://www.skunkworks.com.au/

Crest - http://www.crestonline.biz/product/category/show/BRACKE

Vogels, CLO, Peerless, Venturi - http://www.canohm.com.au/brackets.htm

Adtech - http://www.atdec.com.au/Content_Common/pc-Wall-Mounting-Solutions.seo

Audio Visual devices - http://www.audiovisualdevices.com.au/products.php?catid=19&grpid=1920

 

Ready to Install?

All TV manuals have some general rules about wall mounting TVs, and all wall mounts have instructions attached...well at least the ones I have seen. I have some basic steps listed below followed by some links to more guides that I have found on the interweb. There’s also a bunch of wall mount threads in the HDTV Sub Forum. I suggest using the search function with the words “wall+mount”.

Depending on how handy you are, wall mounting can be pretty easy. The difficulties lay in making sure you don't cut any electrical cables behind the wall and any electric rewiring (eg new power points) should only be done by an authorised electrician.

In the below instructions, the wall mount is the bit that attaches to the wall, and the brackets are the bits that attach to the back of the TV. My suggestions on wall mounting are;

1. Probably a good starting point is to place a cardboard cut-out the size of your screen onto the wall where you want to mount it. Then, you can sit back on your couch and take a look at where is a suitable location and more importantly, a suitable height.
It’s all up to personal taste, but most people seem to agree that having either the middle or bottom of the screen at eye-level is the ideal height. (500-700mm from floor to base of screen).

My preference is for the TV to be mounted about 700mm between the bottom of the screen to the floor.

2. Look around and take note of your surroundings - notice where power points, windows, antenna outputs etc are located, and don't forget to consider what's on the other side of the wall. If there is a bathroom or Hot Water heater on the other side, there may also be some plumbing in the cavity you need to watch out for.

Generally speaking, mounting on a wall that is on the external perimeter of the house is a lot easier than an internal wall.

3. Once you have sorted out the location, use a stud finder to locate the studs in a brick veneer wall, or maybe a magnet in a metal frame house. Studs are usually 450-600mm apart. If they are off centre, you can either mount the bracket off centre and there’s enough panel width to ensure the TV will be centred once mounted, or attach some thick plywood to the studs, and then attach the wall mount to the plywood.

You can skip this step for a double brick wall.

4. Mark your holes for the wall mount (make sure it's level) and mark the access holes to feed AV leads from the TV down to the entertainment unit below.

5. Drill your first wall mount hole and use either wall plugs and screws or dynabolts for masonary wall mounting.

Note: wood and metal screws have different thread patterns, so use the appropriate ones for your installation.

For brick veneer walls, drill pilot holes (that are much smaller diameter than the screws you will use), then you can use the screws provided with the wall mount or if none, then use some big coach screws and use a ratchet to screw them in. You can get this hardware from your local Hardware store eg Bunnings, Mitre 10 etc.

6. Once you’ve drilled the first hole, mount the wall bracket onto the wall and mark the 2^nd hole, making sure again that the bracket is level (perpendicular to the floor). Drill this hole and screw/bolt the mount firmly onto the wall. Now drill and attach the remaining screws/bolts. Usually two will be sufficient to hold most TVs, but having 4 screws/bolts is like having a belt and braces too.

Now attach the brackets onto the back of the TV and the TV is just about ready to go on to the wall.

7. Drill or cut out your core holes for the cables to pass through. In a brick wall I suggest drilling smaller holes around the diameter of your hole (maybe 6) and then punching out the remaining centre brick piece with a hammer and chisel. You can use wall plates (like for power points) to finish it off or those desktop grommets like on computer desks.

8. If you mount the TV low enough, usually you won’t have a noggin between the top and bottom cable holes. If there is a noggin blocking cables from being fed from one hole to the next, you have two options;

i) buy 4 drill bit extenders, attach a 20mm speed bore, remove some roof tiles and drill a hole through the top plate, then through any noggins until you get through the offending noggin; or

ii) using a jigsaw, cut a notch out of the noggin - don’t go too deep. This will mean you will now have a hole to patch up, but it’s a lot easier than option (i). The patch is still usually behind the TV and so will be covered up.

 

9. Feed your cables through the holes and attach to the back of the TV. I use yellow tongue (it’s the yellow plastic joining strip between two chipboard flooring panels) to assist by taping the cables to one end and feeding the yellow tongue through first.

Whilst you’re at it, I suggest you also feed through a pull string at least three times the length of the distance between the holes, so you can pull any future cables through by attaching to the string. It’s also not a bad idea to add an extra cable(s) if you know you will be adding gear in the near future. Much easier now than once the TV’s in the way.

10. Now mount your TV, connect the other ends of the cables to your AV gear and your away. If your TV is not quite level, you can use some cardboard or the like to prop one end up slightly.

 

11. If you are renting and don’t want to cut holes in the wall, Vogels have some mounts with integrated cable management between TV and Entertainment Unit shelves, or you can use cable conduits (square tubing with a removable lid) available from Hardware stores or Electrical suppliers (eg Turks, etc)

 

Links:
Now for some links to some other guides -

How to: Wall mounting a LCD or Plasma

Plasma TV Installation Guide (2)

How to Wall Mount a Plasma

Introduction to Wall Mounting a Flat Panel LCD or Plasma TV

 

…and for anyone who’s interested this is the one I chose – PLSM002

Good Luck and happy mounting

 

This guide is only meant to serve as reference and hopefully act as a starting point for anyone who is interested in what wall mounting solutions are available in the market and also what maybe involved if you want to tackle it yourself. If you are unsure, please use a professional to install your TV on a wall mount. Most electrical retailers will have contractors they use/recommend or most electricians are also capable.

[Lynne Mangold]

after a cable wall plate wide enough to allow a wall plug through. the wall mounted tv cord  cannot be removed from the back of the tv. 

checked a few of the brushes ones but still not wide enough. anybody seen one with a bigger slot. 

[betty boop]

15 minutes ago, Lynne Mangold said:

after a cable wall plate wide enough to allow a wall plug through. the wall mounted tv cord  cannot be removed from the back of the tv. 

checked a few of the brushes ones but still not wide enough. anybody seen one with a bigger slot. 

not aware of one, no doubt you'e done bull nose wall plate google. 

 

but even if could get the power plug through... how its going to get through the wall cavity ? that would be a challenge ? unless you have a straight run through ?

 

simpler might be to cut the plug, for just cable to pass through,  and then  re terminated at other end once through the wall ?

 

alternatively if just for running power down the wall, an all wall conduit that can paint over might be a better option,  

 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/d-line-1m-cable-cover-white_p4430331

 

save all the hassle if tv goes bung and has to be repaired or if TV has to get replaced or moved or something....

[Lynne Mangold]

we  connected a extension lead to the tv power lead and cut the plug off the extension lead and then rewired it once it was cabled through the wall.  found a wall plate at https://www.ezyhd.com.au/shop/wall-plate-with-brushes/

allows a large plug to pass. 

[bradp51]

On 14/09/2017 at 7:42 PM, Lynne Mangold said:

we  connected a extension lead to the tv power lead and cut the plug off the extension lead and then rewired it once it was cabled through the wall.  found a wall plate at https://www.ezyhd.com.au/shop/wall-plate-with-brushes/

allows a large plug to pass. 

I know its an old post but to look a bit more professional and perhaps comply with standards it is best to mount a normal GPO behind the TV and plug into it.  Certainly what I did.

 

PS I bought an SONY LCD the other day from Hardly Normal to mount on the back of a workbench in front of the universal machine in the garage.  Make fitness not so boring.  Anyway the sales tries to force a movable $399 movable wall mount down my throat.  I said I would be fine.  Went home found 4 M6 screws the correct length in my garage and mounting with those. Cost ZERO.

Edited April 24, 2018 by bradp51

[Lynne Mangold]

yep old post, it was just for a small bedroom tv and power was at skirting level height and didn't justify the costs to raise the power point.