Willmax Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 (edited) @Bill125812 have you got any experience with the EGM Audio connectors in general? Edited April 10, 2021 by Willmax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill125812 Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 33 minutes ago, Willmax said: @Bill125812 have you got any experience with the EGM Audio connectors in general? Sorry mate. But no experience at all 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willmax Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 No worries Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofeline Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 The Valve Store in Glen Waverley (Vic) has the EGM spades as well https://www.thevalvestore.com.au/41-audio-connectors They have one version that is "gold plated" and another which is "rhodium plated", no mention of the base material. I saw them a while ago and wondered if they were any good. Would they be considered to be a quality spade? Would the gold or rhodium version be better? Would there be something that would be a much safer purchase for a quality spade that won't break the bank (I know the WBT's are good, but they are expensive). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muon* Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 (edited) Gold is a better conductor than Rhodium, but if the base metal is brass that is not a good conductor at all. Brass is like 28% where copper is 100% and gold is 70% Rhodium about 38% Brass verses Beryllium Copper as a base metal Brass 28% Beryllium Copper 32% to 38% (heat treated for maximum electrical conductivity) Edit: Correction! high conductivity Beryllium Copper has an Electrical conductivity: 45–63% IACS https://copperalliance.org.uk/about-copper/conductivity-materials/copper-beryllium/ Not sure about resistivity, but as seen above Beryllium Copper as a base metal should generally be a better electrical conductor compared to Brass. Edit: Most will se some of this as splinting hairs, but I like any advantage I can get in the signal path Edited April 10, 2021 by muon* 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willmax Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 (edited) Found a good range with different option at https://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/spades.html Sadly I could not find anything local that would suit what I was after so I ended up ordering some CMC gold plated copper spades from the above site. I hope it arrives soon. Now I need to work out the best way to attach them to a flat ribbon copper cable Edited April 11, 2021 by Willmax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muon* Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Willmax said: Found a good range with different option at https://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/spades.html Sadly I could not find anything local that would suit what I was after so I ended up ordering some CMC gold plated copper spades from the above site. I hope it arrives soon. Now I need to work out the best way to attached them to a flat ribbon copper cable Fold the corners of the ribbon ends at and angle so it comes to a point, kind of. Depending on the width of the ribbon you can get it to form well to fit with folding. I always forget hificollective as they are a tad dearer than parts connexon who is my go to shop if i can't get what i need local. Although i used to shop at both equally as I needed parts from both places. Edit: geez, they look nice, and cheap too! Edited April 11, 2021 by muon* 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muon* Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 Rather than fold, roll the edges of the ribbon so the ribbon is flush with the inner-face if the connector when inserted, tin the face of the ribbon after rolling when you have a good fit and also the connector before soldering to secure, and secure the cable to connector with the self adhesive type of heat shrink tubing. You might modify that above and get an even better idea for good area contact and strength :) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofeline Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 When I've used that crimp-style connection I will insert the wire, then close the ribbon with pliers so the two pieces touch in the centre. As I don't have a ratcheted crimping tool, I will place it on an solid surface and use a hammer to flatten so it is extremely tight and secure. No need to solder. I will cover the top and bottom of the spade so the hammering doesn't mark it. Before starting I will slip some heatshrink around the cable to slide over the back of the spade after connecting it so it looks nice (using red and black to reflect the polarity of the connections). While doing that, I will also use a piece of red/black heatshrink a few inches up from the spades so each speaker cable is identified as the left/right channel. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill125812 Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 14 hours ago, muon* said: tin the face of the ribbon after rolling when you have a good fit I would never tin the wire before crimping. Actually if you read into it, it’s not recommended at all. The tinned wire can much more easily crack and break. The recommended way is to twist the wires. Then crimp. If done properly you will almost get a solid weld like bond. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muon* Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 12 minutes ago, Bill125812 said: I would never tin the wire before crimping. Actually if you read into it, it’s not recommended at all. The tinned wire can much more easily crack and break. The recommended way is to twist the wires. Then crimp. If done properly you will almost get a solid weld like bond. Cheers I was looking at the whole approch in a different way, maybe not a good idea *shrug* 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_m_54 Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 9 hours ago, audiofeline said: When I've used that crimp-style connection I will insert the wire, then close the ribbon with pliers so the two pieces touch in the centre. As I don't have a ratcheted crimping tool, I will place it on an solid surface and use a hammer to flatten so it is extremely tight and secure. No need to solder. I will cover the top and bottom of the spade so the hammering doesn't mark it. Before starting I will slip some heatshrink around the cable to slide over the back of the spade after connecting it so it looks nice (using red and black to reflect the polarity of the connections). While doing that, I will also use a piece of red/black heatshrink a few inches up from the spades so each speaker cable is identified as the left/right channel. Get yourself a decent set of crimpers. Hammering is a bad idea as you can over compress the joint, damage the wire and damage the crimp connector. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willmax Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 Your guys are great, lots of helpful advice here. I was a bit hesitant at first but I'm now feeling a lot more confident about being able to pull this off. I'll definitely be posting back here when the spade connectors have been delivered. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofeline Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 2 hours ago, bob_m_54 said: Get yourself a decent set of crimpers. Hammering is a bad idea as you can over compress the joint, damage the wire and damage the crimp connector. I was looking into getting a crimper a while ago, but I would have so little use for them I wonder if it would be worth the investment (ie, one or two crimps every few years). The cheap ones I saw didn't have a ratchet, and I don't have a strong hand grip. I don't know much about them, is there anything you can suggest that I look for or avoid in a budget crimper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill125812 Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 (edited) 9 hours ago, audiofeline said: I was looking into getting a crimper a while ago, but I would have so little use for them I wonder if it would be worth the investment (ie, one or two crimps every few years). The cheap ones I saw didn't have a ratchet, and I don't have a strong hand grip. I don't know much about them, is there anything you can suggest that I look for or avoid in a budget crimper? I would actually recommend one with a ratchet as you said. And one with interchangeable heads Is preferable. Will cover anything you need. I’ve have a few but recently bought this one. I was very sceptical but is actually really good https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301623918249 Edited April 12, 2021 by Bill125812 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_m_54 Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 7 hours ago, Bill125812 said: I would actually recommend one with a ratchet as you said. And one with interchangeable heads Is preferable. Will cover anything you need. I’ve have a few but recently bought this one. I was very sceptical but is actually really good https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301623918249 Bill, that set only has hex crimpers for coax. For those open barrel lugs you need something with this type of jaw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill125812 Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 1 hour ago, bob_m_54 said: Bill, that set only has hex crimpers for coax. For those open barrel lugs you need something with this type of jaw. Yes. There are a few different combination in the kits. You just have to pick the kit you want Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_m_54 Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 2 hours ago, Bill125812 said: Yes. There are a few different combination in the kits. You just have to pick the kit you want OK, I was wondering why you suggested the hex kit. It's the brand you were suggesting then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill125812 Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 2 minutes ago, bob_m_54 said: OK, I was wondering why you suggested the hex kit. It's the brand you were suggesting then? Yes. If he does a search on eBay all the options on those kits come up 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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