ELYAS

Hi Mike, I'm interested. Please check your PMs. Elyas

Samsung 64” F8500 Plasma – the last of the legendary plasma TV’s. One of the best pictures ever re-created on a TV panel. Comes with one of the nicest stands every included with a tv. Solid piece of aluminium is a work of art in itself but is removable for wall mounting. Unfortunately the TV does not turn on, hence the giveaway price. Flashing red light when power button is pressed, consistent with common issue of failed internal power capacitors. If you know this TV, you know it’s a common issue and you also know it’s a very easy fix for any TV electrician or anyone that knows how to solder. Otherwise, TV and Panel is in excellent working order and will make a great bedroom or mancave Chromecast streaming or hdmi movie watching tv. Comes with two remotes. Slight burn in top right corner (thanks Fox Sports), quite faint, only visible on white screen. TV aerial port requires re-seating while you’re at it. Easy fix for any TV Repairer, under $10 in parts (3 capacitors) and a few minutes work to solder without taking out the board. See this forum for discussion and instruction: 1. do not remove the board. solder the caps directly on the legs of the old caps without removing the board; https://www.avsforum.com/threads/samsung-pn64f8500afxza-issues-with-turning-on.1959809/page-12 2. both solutions are working: -> 2.a: one 33 microfarad cap (tested and working using the proper area dedicated to the electrolytic cap or using a couple of legs of the old caps) -> 2.b: three 10 microfarad caps (tested and working using the 3 couples of legs of the old caps) I preferred the three 10 uF caps solution because equal to 30uF total capacity needed; 3. after caps mounting, remember to tune the 4 voltages (first Vs and Va on the supply board, then Vsc and Ve) especially if you adopted the solution 2.a. After first tuning round, check again the 4 voltages. Photos:

Thanks mate, i've well and truly put them in my distant memory. Lesson learned and hopefully one for others before they consider SSV as an option. Ignition barrel is loosening up at least. Still not cool, the 32 key has so much more charm than the 33 key. My motor was also built at Racepace but is now services by JMA. They sorted out the Attessa, got the 4WD working again, however it was kicking in incorrectly. Just cruising on the freeway at 100kph, the front torque gauge would be maxed out. Broke a front driveshaft before I could get it home, no doubt due to the load, and after some time trying to work out what the hell was going on, turns out I had 3.9 ratio gears in my rear diff. Don't even ask...lol Obviously this is a separate issue to SSV, but just curious as to why it didn't behave this way before. I do remember the 4wd operation was never perfect, but this was much more exaggerated. Perhaps new wiring increased TPS voltage/signals and thus sentitivity? Who knows. In any case, now I've had to source a new diff with 4.11 gears. Here's hoping I can finally enjoy this damned car.

What a disgrace. I guess there are plenty of unsuspecting, ignorant people like me that keep them afloat.

Further information: One of the best TV's ever made. Producing the deepest of blacks and incredibly smooth picture with minimal reflections. Just look at online reviews of this TV. Includes the iconic stand that came with this tv which is a work of art in itself. 2 remotes. Cons: Arial Input plug is broken (photo included), however this was never a problem for me as I only used this tv for Foxtel and movie viewing. There is a slight bit of burn in, top right corner of the panel, FoxSports logo . Also the tv only seems to like to turn on when batteries in the remote are 50-100%. IE, If you're going to service it anyway for the TV arial, then maybe a new IR receiver is required or something. Otherwise, turning it on from the unit works. Service is factored into the asking price, however I am negotiable. Photos: PLEASE READ If you include any reference to pricing whatsoever in this section (excluding RRP), your ad will not be approved If you are advertising multiple items, you must post one bulk price only, or post seperate ads for each item If you don't include photographs of the actual item being sold, your ad will not be approved You understand that a reasonable donation for selling fees is expected upon successful sale of your item

Thanks Marc, wish I'd asked around before this debacle. It wasn't Rodney i was dealing with, not sure if he's at Keilor Park. I won't say his name but it was the store manager. To be fair, he was never rude to me, but I don't think he was honest and it wasn't until I really put my foot down and started talking refund that he got serious about fixing it. Politeness is one thing, actual service is another.

Thanks for the advice Greg. If the shop refused to fix their errors, I'd definitely be taking it much further. Apart from my broken key and the 4WD issue, they sorted the rest of it out and to go down that path would just be wasting my own time even more. I just don't want to have to deal with them any more. My car is booked in for a good service next week at a reputable shop who specialise in GTR's and they seem confident in being able to rectify the 4WD.

Hi Bruce, I have since found and spoken with a mechanic who knows (and owns) these cars and has very good reputation in the scene. Car is going in next week for a general service and to sort the 4wd issue out. He's local too, so hopefully his shop can become the mechanical/service home for my car moving forward. Apart from the 4wd problem (which I'm certain is just a wiring issue) the car is immaculate, hence my anger when I realised all the other issues they'd created.

I've umm'd and ahh'd about posting this. Was going to post a review to Google and FB but I'm so over drama, whilst still wanting to vent a little I thought here might be OK. I’d like to share my experience with Keilor Park SSV (Street Sound Vision). This is a bit of a long read, so please scroll to the end for a shortened dot-point summary if you want to just get the gist of it. I've changed the names of the employees so as not to get too personal. This is more of an exercise in getting something off my chest and just sharing the value of checking reviews before entrusting anyone with your prized possessions. In mid-November last year I contacted Street Sound Vision to enquire about fitting an alarm system with GPS tracking etc. to my 1994 Nissan R32 GTR. After speaking with the store manager Bob, I felt comfortable to go in and discuss the alarm and feature add-ons as well as picking a new head unit to replace my old one. I brought in my car so he could have a look and give me a quote. We booked in for the 21st of December and I was advised this would be an easy one-day job. On the 21st, I dropped off my car in the morning and returned home. Later that afternoon, I received a phone call from Bob explaining that the car was ready, however I will need to go through a process every time I turn off the car if I wanted the Remote Start function to operate. This included some kind of button-press sequence before turning off the car and locking it. I thought this was strange and prodded a little further, explaining that I just want to operate my car normally and don’t want to have to go through a ‘sequence’ every time. He advised that for this, they’d need to re-wire the remote-start function to the neutral switch of the gearbox, which to my understanding was the correct way it should have been done initially. He said they’d need it over-night to finish in the morning. Fine. The next day I received a call at around 1pm to come and pick up the car. Upon arrival, I was shown the standard features of the alarm; arm, disarm, remote start/stop etc. which all worked perfectly. The new head unit worked and the Bluetooth microphone tucked up over the rear-view mirror neatly, I was satisfied and so went inside to pay the invoice, thank the guys and leave. When I jumped in my car to leave and put the key into the ignition barrel, the car did not respond. No cranking, nothing. I tried the remote start function and that worked, but the car wouldn’t crank with the key. I got out and called one of the guys (the one that actually did the install) out to have a look and his first words were, “It’s an old barrel and must be broken”, as if it was just a coincidence. Of course, I didn’t appreciate that and he agreed to take it back around to the workshop to take a look. I waited for over an hour in the showroom before asking one of the other guys to go and see what’s going on, he came back saying they’re having a look and will advise shortly. About half an hour later I was called to the back and they showed me the whole driver side under-dash wiring pulled out, explaining they don’t know what the issue is exactly but they’ve narrowed it down to the ignition barrel harness. Again, blaming the age of the car, brittle wires and possibly even the old turbo-timer. Apparently, we had to source a new harness from somewhere or repair the current one. I stated that there was never any issue prior to bringing the car to them, and that they need to sort it out. At this stage I was pretty frustrated and they said they’ll need it another night, that they’d look at it again in the morning and advise what can be done. The next day, I received a call at around 2.30pm advising that they know what the issue is, it’s been rectified and I could come over at 5pm to pick it up after they’ve tested it thoroughly. I arrived at 5pm, and something didn’t feel right as I approached the counter with 3 or 4 guys standing there. Bob said “Mate, we had a bit of an issue, but it’s all fine, your car is working perfectly now.” I asked what the issue was and he said that they had broken my key, but “not to worry because Doogle had a spare GTR key and we got that re-cut for you.” As I stood there trying to stay composed, Bob said “I don’t know how it happened, it just broke one time as we inserted it into the barrel. Doogle then chirped in with “yours was a cheap eBay-spec Chinese knockoff anyway”, adding insult to injury. It's not a knock-off by the way. After explaining that Bob had fully rebuilt my ignition wiring harness and it was now all perfect, I put aside my disappointment of my broken original key with the embossed logo (different to the raised lettering of the replacement which was either R33 or possibly fake itself), took his word that the car was fine and decided to just take my car and go home. It was Christmas after all and I couldn’t be bothered fighting over the key. I got in my car, put the key in the barrel and immediately noticed it was very tight. Turning the barrel required a lot of effort and my broken key suddenly had an explanation. Bob did mention the new key was “a little tight” and needed some wearing in, but this was ridiculous. I turned the key all the way to the barrel bump-stop and there was a 1-2 second delay before the engine tried to crank and failed. Normally the engine begins to crank before you even get to the end of the barrel. I backed off and tried again. Same thing, it would crank once and stop. So I held the key in that position and went through this sequence a few times until it finally turned on. Then my 4WD light came on indicating a fault/failure (they did splice into the ECU and the 4WD computer is connected to that so they may have damaged that connection). I turned off the car and went back inside and called Bob out who at this stage was speechless and swore black and blue that it had been fully tested. They were dumbfounded as to the 4WD failure and then Doogle once again thought it’d be a good time to try and explain to me that “as it’s an old car, the light might be faulting but as long as the 4wd gauge was moving under acceleration it would be fine,” as if I was some idiot that doesn't understand what I'm driving. It wasn’t working anyway. The next day was Christmas eve, it was currently 6pm and I couldn’t stay so I said I’m taking the car and will be back after Christmas. On the way home, I realised my climate control was also not working. No lights, nothing. Totally dead. When I got home and parked the car, I tested the Remote Start function and that did not work either. I tried the other remote and that didn’t even operate what-so-ever. To try and explain the disappointment would be impossible. This was a car that I'd dreamed of since I was a child. The way the market has exploded on these in the last few years has drastically driven the value up and it became harder to obtain one. I refuse to finance 'toys' and so saving up my hard earned, sacrificing other hobbies and finally finding the right one at the beginning of 2020 made me super protective of it. It's not 'just a car' to me - it's way more than that, it's an investment and more so a symbol and a mark of personal achievement for me. So even though we're not talking about a write-off accident or fire or theft, paying good money to someone you trust and receiving garbage service and zero care factor makes me sick. Summary of faults: 1. My key was broken and called a fake. 2. Car would hesitate before attempting to crank multiple times, sometimes unsuccessfully. 3. Ignition barrel extremely tight and difficult to turn. 4. 4WD light on and no 4WD operation. 5. Remote Start function not working. 6. Second remote not working 7. Climate control dead. On the 04/01/21 – I called and spoke to Bob and calmly aired my frustration. He told me they can’t see me until the 25th of January, which I rejected and said in that case I want a full refund so I can take it somewhere else to get fixed. He then agreed to take it in on Thursday the 7th to asses and advise. I felt stuck between a rock and a hard place as I had already paid them. If I hadn't yet paid, they would never see me again, but I had to try and keep things civil with them so they could fix the car. On Thursday I took the car and we agreed he’d keep it, look into the issues and try to rectify. Later that day he called me saying it was being worked on and the next day I received a call saying everything except for the 4WD had been rectified. Alarm had been removed and re-fit, turbo timer removed (previously discussed and agreed) as it was interfering with the ignition/remote start voltage. Car is good now except for my 4WD still not working. When I bought the car, the Attesa was not patched to the Haltech ECU. This was fixed, but is now mysteriously not working again. Bob said he’d checked the wiring and it all looked fine so wasn’t sure why it wasn’t working. As I had by now lost all faith in SSV, I did not pursue this matter and decided I will take it to a GTR specialist auto-elec. Whilst I appreciated Bob finally coming through and sorting out some of the issues, the overall experience with SSV was shambolic and, not only do I not recommend them, I strongly urge anyone considering their service to look elsewhere. The stress and worry I felt especially over Christmas and the New Year seems childish in hindsight, but this car does make me feel like a kid again, so I guess it just comes with the territory. I accept blame on my part for not looking into their reviews online before booking the car and taking it in to them. Since this experience, I've spoken to many people who've had similar or worse experiences with this store, and even their other stores. Very uncharacteristic of me to just trust a ‘big’ name in the industry without doing my own research. Lesson learned, let it be yours too. Thanks for reading and again, sorry for the long burn. Short Version: • 21/12/20 – Drop car off to purchase and fit alarm system and head unit. Was advised later in the arvo that certain procedures need to be completed before ignition-off to activate Remote Start, but a way around was to re-fit to gearbox neutral switch. • 22/12/20 – “car is ready”: On pick-up, was shown features of the alarm and headunit, all seemed fine, paid and went to leave. Car would not start with key. Waited 2 hours while diagnosing. Blamed age of car. Left the car with them again. • 23/12/20 – “car is ready”: On arrival: My key was broken and called a fake. Car would hesitate before attempting to crank multiple times, sometimes unsuccessfully. Ignition barrel extremely tight and difficult to turn. 4WD light on and no 4WD operation. Remote Start function not working. Second remote not working Climate control dead. • Advised they can’t do anything about it until the new year. • 04/01/21 – called and spoke to Bob and calmly aired my frustration. He told me they can’t see me until the 25th of January, which I rejected and said in that case I want a full refund so I can take it somewhere else to fix. He then agreed to take it in on Thursday the 7th to asses and advise. • 07/01/21 – took the car and agreed he’d keep it, look into the issues and try to rectify. Later that day he called me saying it was being worked on. • The next day I received a call saying everything except for the 4WD had been rectified. Alarm had been removed and re-fit, turbo timer removed as it was interfering with the ignition/remote start voltage. • Car is good now except for my 4WD now not working. When I bought the car, the Attesa was not patched to the Haltech ECU. This was fixed, but is now mysteriously not working again. Will need an auto-elec.

I’ve pulled the pin and bought a Sony x9000h. New 10 meter RuiPro HDMI 2.1 Fibre Optic and Cat6 Ethernet cables run and the tv mounted. Had to have custom brackets fabricated to mount my centre channel under the fireplace mantle as the larger screen fills the space it used to sit under my Samsung 64” f8500 plasma. Had to re-mount the wall bracket and get it all levelled but I’m extremely happy with the result. The TV is brilliant. A few picture tweaks and I’m very happy with it. The OS is a dream too. Next is the PS5 when they’re readily available, I’ve never been keen on scrambling like a madman during first release mayhem. Also, I need a new receiver with hdmi2.1. Currently have an old Aventage a710. Would love to stick with Yamaha and the a3080 is screaming at me but I’ve read some issues with them and Denon and Marantz’s 2.1 compatibility early on. So maybe I should wait a bit till that’s ironed out.

Further information: High quality Tempered Glass HIFI equipment rack/shelving unit. Bottom shelf is tall enough to hold a large Receiver/Amp, two above perfect for other sources such as PlayStation/XBox, Bluray players, modems/routers etc. With cable management holes in the rear panel. Height: 680mm Width: 650mm Depth: 450mm In as new condition. Pickup only, COD. Photos: *Doggy not for sale.

I'm in the market for the same. We've got three options at this size, all FALD VA panels. Sony X9000H, Hisense Q8 and Samsung Q80T. For me, based on my research and reviews, the Sony seems to offer the best bang for buck. The Hisense may be a bit cheaper by discount, but the Sony has better gaming (input lag) and Android OS is class leading. The Samsung might have it's number on a pixel-peeping level, but at $1,500 more... it prices itself out of the running. You can really see that Sony are taking starting to throw their weight in the market, putting out amazing quality for a bargain.

Price drop - $3,900

Yep, agreed. Having second thoughts about selling it. Have received a few offers at ~3,700., not really interested in budging to much but willing to do a deal including insured postage if someone is keen.

Thanks gents, I think it's Breitling's most underrated watch in their catalogue. I do love it but it needs to make way unfortunately.

Further information: Breitling Transocean Day Date A4531012 On the original and iconic Breitling Ocean Classic bracelet with the beautiful black dial. It comes with everything pictured in the second photo. There is no outer box, just the original Breitling leather case and all paperwork including original purchase receipt from Duty Free. You will not find a find a cheaper example in this condition, on the bracelet (maybe not even with the leather strap) anywhere in the world right now and I may be slightly negotiable within reason. Condition: Unpolished, faint swirls/scratches on the case, a small mark at the very outer edge of the case at 9 and very light marks in the AR coating. The clasp has a slightly more prominent scratch under the 1884 marking. All marks are from normal wear and are easily corrected with a polish. The watch can be enjoyed immediately, Ie; the photos really don't do the watch justice, instead they accentuate the swirls especially in macro images (clasp for example). I think that's the honest way to sell a watch. It looks fantastic in person hence why I haven't had it polished. I will send the watch via registered post, with signature required on delivery and it will be fully insured (approximately +$130AUD Australia-wide with $4000 insurance cover). I take no responsibility for lost items if you want to take the risk after full payment so insurance is highly recommended. The pack and post process will be fully documented with images and a video clip of the item entering the postage packaging and being handed to Australia Post. Let me now if you'd like any more information or images of the piece. Photos: I also have a HD close up of the watch, all angles, movement, operation, day and date change and click-over for anyone genuinely interested.

I should have clarified, 950G over 80"...aaaand I just found it, curiously filed under their LED 65"-70" category, what the? X9500G 85", $6,500~. All of a sudden, Sammy's Q75R is a bargain, both rated equally on Rtings...

I thought markets might have been the answer. I like the idea of Android in the Sony X95G (x950G/X9500G [markets?]). Rated exactly the same as the Q70R on Rtings. Not sure it's stocked in Australia though... Hard to find it.

I couldn't find an rtings comparison to the Q80, they don't have the Q75R, just the Q70 and Q70r. Do you know differences or was it just a maybe a mid-term "facelift" or firmware update or something?

Awesome. Ok, I think I know what I'm looking at now. Time to crunch. Thanks heaps.

So this? https://www.jbhifi.com.au/products/samsung-q75-82-qled-4k-smart-tv How do I find out if a panel is IPS? Thanks for helping, I hope this thread helps others with the same questions.

I was thrown off by the recommendation for Full Array with Local Dimming. I've been looking through specs on the JB site and most panels are noted as Edge Lit or "Direct Lit". I'm assuming that Direct lit and Full Array mean the same thing?? Or no...

So what FALD panels over 80" currently hover either in or over my price range? Happy to wait until June and take advantage of eofy.

Thank you. That's great info.

Thanks @betty boop, I usually stay away from new tech until it’s a) tried and tested by everyone else and b) drops in price, hence why I’m only looking at uhd4k now. However, given the discussion above regarding the sizing and type of backlighting, I do think I may need to increase my budget to not fall too far behind.