Tannoy “Balmoral” CAD/CNC

[Andrew Tilsley]

This is a welcome change from the 100kg projects I’ve recently been building. 
 

Lovely Silky Oak over euro birch ply. 
 

cabinets will be 130 litres. 
 

I’m using 19mm ply, which will be double walled. 
 

recessed plinth, mitred, approx 50mm high. 
 

quality terminals from our mates at Speaker Bug. 
 

tannoy HPD 12-inch co-ax. 
 

 

[Andrew Tilsley]

Pic of a Klipsch horn using Silky Oak (not mine). That would be a go-to project for me. Having recently built a Klipsch Belle bass horn, I’d like to do the top section. 

[THOMO]

Another great Tannoy project.

Silky oak is such a classy timber!Combines really well with jarrah.

I use local River Banksia for veneering and inlays which looks similar.

[Rob Wright]

Great job. I really wish I could cut and measure well enough to build something that nice.

[playdough]

9 minutes ago, Rob Wright said:

Great job. I really wish I could cut and measure well enough to build something that nice.

 Build it, bog and sand and paint in a ripple finish black satin. 

 

[Andrew Tilsley]

More progress. Port fits nicely. 

[Andrew Tilsley]

Backs getting glued in.

[Andrew Tilsley]

Battens and inner ply panels going in.

[Type 1]

Nice work!

Silky Oak is an interesting species as depending on the angle of the cut in the log, the size of the “ Rays”…, spots changes..

I’m just curious, who is doing your Veneering for you? I know most of the local “players”.

Anyway, you have a nice workshop and it will be a nice looking project when it’s done!

 

[klm]

2 hours ago, Type 1 said:

Nice work!

Silky Oak is an interesting species as depending on the angle of the cut in the log, the size of the “ Rays”…, spots changes..

I’m just curious, who is doing your Veneering for you? I know most of the local “players”.

Anyway, you have a nice workshop and it will be a nice looking project when it’s done!

 

You too would have a nice workshop if you were a teacher at that particular school.

[THOMO]

Andrew what glue do you use for attaching the solid edging?

I use polyurathane  glue and stretched masking tape where you have those clamps.Mostly because it is easy to sand off and does not creep or leave a residue in the grain like PVA.The masking tape can take a bit of getting off though.

[Andrew Tilsley]

14 hours ago, Type 1 said:

Nice work!

Silky Oak is an interesting species as depending on the angle of the cut in the log, the size of the “ Rays”…, spots changes..

I’m just curious, who is doing your Veneering for you? I know most of the local “players”.

Anyway, you have a nice workshop and it will be a nice looking project when it’s done!

 

Thanks. Over the years, I've done some veneering myself...but not any more. Recently, I have used Sharp Panels, here in SE QLD. Great supplier. Graig Sharp is the principal.

[Andrew Tilsley]

11 hours ago, klm said:

You too would have a nice workshop if you were a teacher at that particular school.

Ha, I work as an Exec in the school, not a teacher.

[Andrew Tilsley]

11 hours ago, THOMO said:

Andrew what glue do you use for attaching the solid edging?

I use polyurathane  glue and stretched masking tape where you have those clamps.Mostly because it is easy to sand off and does not creep or leave a residue in the grain like PVA.The masking tape can take a bit of getting off though.

I tend to use PVA...but I always have a damp cloth on standby. For heavy walnut trim, I will drill a small pilot hole and put 2 or 3 nails in, then fill with matching putty.

[Andrew Tilsley]

Plinths mitred and glued in. After glue dries, I then add screws for extra support. 

[Andrew Tilsley]

Oak trim added, plus initial sanding.

[Andrew Tilsley]

Finished, using Gilley Stephenson's natural cabinet bees wax.

 

Earthwool to be added after I drill the driver holes.

 

Quality Dueland cable used internally with nickel terminals.