joz Posted October 8, 2006 Posted October 8, 2006 OK I must admit ... that one went over my head [/b] Maybe Fuzzy is still on the younger side and has no concept of three on the tree,even four on the floor is so retro today Right Ol timer(joey)
JA Posted October 8, 2006 Author Posted October 8, 2006 OK I must admit ... that one went over my head [/b] Hello Fuzzylogic, You are honest- that is good. For cars with manual transmissions (probably in the 1970s in Australia) 3 speed manual transmissions were common amongst Australian cars- these were on the left side of the steering wheel column- "three on the tree". Other cars at the same time usually European or Japanese had a 4 speed transmission with the gear stick on the floor-"four on the floor" So since the comparator has 3 positions-"three on the tree"???? Sorry, JOEY humour. Cheers :biggrin: Have Fun JOEY
Fuzzylogic Posted October 8, 2006 Posted October 8, 2006 Thanks Joey! Now I can see the humour. You learn something everyday :wink:
Guest alebonau Posted October 8, 2006 Posted October 8, 2006 Hello Fuzzylogic, Thanks, but I'm not sure if its four on the floor or three on the tree. Cheers :biggrin: Have Fun, JOEY [/b] hehehe looks liek a three on a tree to me ! 3 way switching and has a wooden box. May be you can call it that Joey ! hehehe three on a tree ! I actually did a bit of practice on my learners via one of those !
Guest RodN Posted October 8, 2006 Posted October 8, 2006 hehehe looks liek a three on a tree to me ! 3 way switching and has a wooden box. May be you can call it that Joey ! hehehe three on a tree ! I actually did a bit of practice on my learners via one of those ! [/b] I had three on the tree with no synchros in first for the first 2 years of my licence, gotta love the front bench seat, scored well in that thing I did...! :blush:
JA Posted October 8, 2006 Author Posted October 8, 2006 I had three on the tree with no synchros in first for the first 2 years of my licence, gotta love the front bench seat, scored well in that thing I did...! :blush: [/b] Right on Rod- I forgot the bench seat :biggrin: :biggrin: Have Fun, JOEy Maybe Fuzzy is still on the younger side and has no concept of three on the tree,even four on the floor is so retro today Right Ol timer(joey) [/b] Hi Joz, I'd say something, but I need to put my teeth back in first. :biggrin: Have Fun, JOEY
Guest alebonau Posted October 9, 2006 Posted October 9, 2006 hehehe you got me with the name change joey. left me wondering who this new JA person was.
JA Posted October 9, 2006 Author Posted October 9, 2006 hehehe you got me with the name change joey. left me wondering who this new JA person was. [/b] Yes JOEY, bless him is no more. Cheers
pathetic Posted October 11, 2006 Posted October 11, 2006 Ok...help needed for my soon to be completed floorstanders. I've got the original JV60 crossover and was thinking of upgrading the caps and inductors. I've no idea what type they are currently and no idea what I should upgrade to. Was wondering if the MKT caps and air-core inductors from Jaycar is suffice to improve the sound. Auricaps and Mundorfs are a little tad too high for me. Should I just leave it as it is and dont touch anything?
terry j Posted October 11, 2006 Posted October 11, 2006 is there a reason to change? Besides, if you don't at least listen for a while, what are you going to compare the changes to? That's the beauty of diy, you can always change them at a later date, so get them up and running now I say, then tweak later lol
pathetic Posted October 11, 2006 Posted October 11, 2006 You got a point there terry. I'll just stick to the current one for the moment. Thanks.
Tom J Posted October 11, 2006 Posted October 11, 2006 Also, if the drivers themselves aren't "matched" quality to any new x-over components you buy, there's not going to really be any improvement... no point putting $200 crossovers in $100 speakers...
JA Posted October 11, 2006 Author Posted October 11, 2006 Ok...help needed for my soon to be completed floorstanders. I've got the original JV60 crossover and was thinking of upgrading the caps and inductors. I've no idea what type they are currently and no idea what I should upgrade to. Was wondering if the MKT caps and air-core inductors from Jaycar is suffice to improve the sound. Auricaps and Mundorfs are a little tad too high for me. Should I just leave it as it is and dont touch anything? [/b] Hello Pathetic, You say you are not sure what type of caps and inductors are used in the crossover. Can you post a photo? This will give others a clue. Actuallly- just thought: is the crossover in your original pics- Iwill check. Best JA
norpus Posted October 11, 2006 Posted October 11, 2006 I forgot to add: Building a mounting plate for the new 8720 projector (god that sucker is huge - too much for my standard mount) Assemble and test my new CAVX CIH ananmorphic lens I just unboxed tonight and build as mount for that too in front of the pj [/b] Update: These two now completed and off the list. IB sub project now taking major attention (as well as beer in the warm weather) :biggrin: Unfortunately, whilst it works brilliantly, the CIH makes my image too wide for my 108" screen as I cannot move my pj close enough in (it is mounted on rear wall at ~6mtrs) to take advantage. Brilliant technology tho , thumbs up Mark.
joz Posted October 11, 2006 Posted October 11, 2006 Will be wanting a demo norps,sounds like its all ahead full at your place at the mo. What does Mrs Norps have to say about all the happenings :biggrin:
norpus Posted October 11, 2006 Posted October 11, 2006 Will be wanting a demo norps,sounds like its all ahead full at your place at the mo. What does Mrs Norps have to say about all the happenings :biggrin: [/b] She's mumbling under her breath right now. I joked with her yesterday that I'd mucked up the hole. In fact I'm having a few probs with stuff under the house getting in the way of the drivers Mrs norpus has started a new job this week - best place for her? esp when the boys are playing JohnA is coming over at noon to lend a hand (or have a few bevvies as the case will be) I played with the front IB yesterday - feeding one driver 500watts (bridged mono) and measuring spl. It can take a lot more than I thought. The amp got warm. You should see 10 Hz at ~300watts - cannot hear a thing apart but visually looks cool with a 2" excursion peak to peak on an 18. When feeding it about 100watts both drivers, it performed beautifully flat at the manifold 60-16Hz at 114 +/-3dB. Just goes to show how the room gets in the way of a flat response.
JA Posted October 12, 2006 Author Posted October 12, 2006 Update: These two now completed and off the list. IB sub project now taking major attention (as well as beer in the warm weather) :biggrin: Unfortunately, whilst it works brilliantly, the CIH makes my image too wide for my 108" screen as I cannot move my pj close enough in (it is mounted on rear wall at ~6mtrs) to take advantage. Brilliant technology tho , thumbs up Mark. [/b] Hello Norpus, Just out of curiousity you could try to mount a long throw lens on your projector and then go in to your anamorphic lens. I have one that might work- you could try it atleast. HTH Best JA
norpus Posted October 12, 2006 Posted October 12, 2006 Hello Norpus, Just out of curiousity you could try to mount a long throw lens on your projector and then go in to your anamorphic lens. I have one that might work- you could try it atleast. HTH Best JA [/b] Cool, worth a try. Bring it over tonite if you can get hold of it? and we'll have a play Thanks JA
Aslan Posted October 12, 2006 Posted October 12, 2006 I played with the front IB yesterday - feeding one driver 500watts (bridged mono) and measuring spl. It can take a lot more than I thought. The amp got warm. You should see 10 Hz at ~300watts - cannot hear a thing apart but visually looks cool with a 2" excursion peak to peak on an 18. When feeding it about 100watts both drivers, it performed beautifully flat at the manifold 60-16Hz at 114 +/-3dB. Just goes to show how the room gets in the way of a flat response. [/b] Love it norpus.....................I got 104dB @ 10Hz out of Atlantis #1 today before the driver hit the bump stops, At least it's run in. #2 gets the treatment tomorrow.
Spearmint Posted October 12, 2006 Posted October 12, 2006 When feeding it about 100watts both drivers, it performed beautifully flat at the manifold 60-16Hz at 114 +/-3dB. Just goes to show how the room gets in the way of a flat response. [/b] Love it norpus.....................I got 104dB @ 10Hz out of Atlantis #1 today before the driver hit the bump stops, At least it's run in. #2 gets the treatment tomorrow. [/b] Oh ooh here we go a couple of SPL racers having a crack… :biggrin:
Aslan Posted October 12, 2006 Posted October 12, 2006 Nah Spearmint........it wont beat an IB below 20Hz......I'm sure Albert E would have an explanation for that. Hit 119.6dB at 45Hz though, so I'm happy. I'm playing around with more dacron filling tomorrow......could do with some more damping.
pathetic Posted October 12, 2006 Posted October 12, 2006 Here's a picture of the Jaycar crossover. And I believe the design is the same as the one from the link below. I was thinking of keeping the existing design but just upgrade the caps and inductor. Wonder if it'll improve the sound. Crossover design http://www.geocities.com/etude317/TLconstruction.html
JA Posted October 12, 2006 Author Posted October 12, 2006 Here's a picture of the Jaycar crossover. And I believe the design is the same as the one from the link below. I was thinking of keeping the existing design but just upgrade the caps and inductor. Wonder if it'll improve the sound. Crossover design http://www.geocities.com/etude317/TLconstruction.html [/b] Thanks for the photo. I would change the 3 green capacitors- these are electrolytic capacitors and film capacitors would be an improvement. Just use the Jaycar or equivalent polypropylene caps (like the other yellow ones in the pic). The 6.8uF and 10uF will be no problem to get, but the 33uF may not be available. If this is the case put more capacitors in paralell to increse the capacitance. If you are lucky they will have a 33uF cap- who knows. HTH Best JA
pathetic Posted October 12, 2006 Posted October 12, 2006 Thanks JA. Do you know what the white ones are? And also its mentioned that theres a polyswitch as well and can be removed. Is the polyswitch the big orange thing below the iron core inductor?
pathetic Posted October 13, 2006 Posted October 13, 2006 Was thinking, since I'm replacing half the caps with Mundorf M-Caps, would it be worthwile to replace all of em. Costs a little more but its just once off. Just found out that the white ones are resistors. Should I replace them and the inductors as well?
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