aaron.m.k Posted October 22, 2013 Posted October 22, 2013 This looks great! Will be interested to hear your thoughts on the Adelaide Speakers.
Battler009 Posted October 22, 2013 Posted October 22, 2013 On 22/10/2013 at 8:08 AM, timhet said: In the meantime though, I worked out a solution to block the window. I'll post some pics of my idea. Basically, I purchased 3 x planks of 16mm MDF, then I wrapped the edges in 9mm thick rubber tape. I'll stuff them into the window frame section. I'm going to wait until we mount the projector again before I block off the light. I had a mate out a block out shutter on his media room, worked a treat, I gyprocked over mine, one tip was if you don't want people to see it blocked from outside we just got a few aerosol cans of black paint to cover the glass, then filled with batts and gyprock over or in your case mdf plug
timhet1503564719 Posted October 23, 2013 Author Posted October 23, 2013 The guys came back today to fix the projector. In the end, its all setup correctly now so I'm happy. They admitted they learnt something regarding how to setup a CIH system. I guess the lesson I learnt was to either DIY or at least be there when the installers were there. I was actually there for half the day when they originally came, but I had to duck off to work in the afternoon when they did the projector. I made sure I was there this morning. I don't want to publicly shame them, but if anyone is looking for installers in Geelong, Vic, PM me and I can steer you in the right direction. I'll take some pics and comment about the Adelaide speakers soon. In short though, the speakers are sounding great. The room needs some treatments though as there is a fairly big echo. I also haven't organise the LED strip lighting. I will need about 17 metres worth. I did some research previously around this and identified that I'll need to buy RGB amplifier to allow me go get all 17m on a single controller.
blybo Posted October 23, 2013 Posted October 23, 2013 16mm MDF is going to be pretty heavy if drops out on to somebody! I wouldn't just be wedging that in. Another idea I've seen here is custom cut micro-cell foam rubber from Clark rubber. Would be more expensive but wouldn't risk injury or damage to window frames. Easy to remove when you want to as well.
709er Posted October 23, 2013 Posted October 23, 2013 On 23/10/2013 at 1:52 AM, timhet said: I'll take some pics and comment about the Adelaide speakers soon. In short though, the speakers are sounding great. The room needs some treatments though as there is a fairly big echo. I also haven't organise the LED strip lighting. I will need about 17 metres worth. I did some research previously around this and identified that I'll need to buy RGB amplifier to allow me go get all 17m on a single controller. There are quite a few controllers around and more recently, mini controllers and amplifiers which are tiny in comparison to the alluminium cased models. Do you want RF or IR control? My IR control is sometimes affected by my Oppo remote and you really need to point the remote accurately. I prefer the RF control. Everything is hidden and no need for directionality. Just need to check for disturbances with other RF controlled equipment. Make sure you get one with DIY modes, so you can custom create your own lighting shades
timhet1503564719 Posted October 25, 2013 Author Posted October 25, 2013 On 23/10/2013 at 5:24 AM, blybo said: 16mm MDF is going to be pretty heavy if drops out on to somebody! I wouldn't just be wedging that in. Another idea I've seen here is custom cut micro-cell foam rubber from Clark rubber. Would be more expensive but wouldn't risk injury or damage to window frames. Easy to remove when you want to as well. Thanks for the advice. I'll look into this. The window is pretty low down and the worst that could happen is that the planks fall about 20cm into the back of the back seats, but I'll look into it to ensure it is safe. On 23/10/2013 at 6:02 AM, 709er said: There are quite a few controllers around and more recently, mini controllers and amplifiers which are tiny in comparison to the alluminium cased models. Do you want RF or IR control? My IR control is sometimes affected by my Oppo remote and you really need to point the remote accurately. I prefer the RF control. Everything is hidden and no need for directionality. Just need to check for disturbances with other RF controlled equipment. Make sure you get one with DIY modes, so you can custom create your own lighting shades I didn't realise you could get RF controls until you mentioned it. The lights will be a bit of a novelty so it won't bother me too much which option I choose. Will look out for DIY modes. I think I read in your thread about have the 44 key remote. I just want to make sure that I can find one with Australian power connections. I just ordered four acoustic panels from CMF Acoustics in Melbourne. I'm also going to look into making some bass traps as I can hear that needs to be controlled a bit better. Does anyone know if the following product would be suited? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Polymax-MAB-48-100-Acoustic-Blancket-/230730594490?pt=AU_Business_Industrial_Construction_Building_Materials_Hardware&hash=item35b89d78ba I will hopefully be able to upload a few pics of the theatre as it currently stands over the weekend.
mr-happy-pants Posted October 25, 2013 Posted October 25, 2013 (edited) Combine your window blockout as a bass trap. Use thick foam as an infill for the window It is light, easy to install/remove, won't kill you if it falls on you (which it won't). It can also perform as a bass trap. PM Quark. he has done it. He puts foam blocks over his window panes during daytime. Great temporary or permanent use with brilliant results re light block and sound taming. Edited October 25, 2013 by mr-happy-pants
timhet1503564719 Posted October 25, 2013 Author Posted October 25, 2013 Here are a couple pics of the screen and some of my gear.
icker.p Posted October 25, 2013 Posted October 25, 2013 On 25/10/2013 at 7:02 AM, mr-happy-pants said: Needs more subs There's space for another one on the opposite side… It must be still being delivered.
Battler009 Posted October 25, 2013 Posted October 25, 2013 Looks great, is that Dredd you had going, how were you happy with the sound it's got a great 7.1 mix. I think you'll notice in a dedicated room you'll want your equipment lights off as they become a distraction
timhet1503564719 Posted October 25, 2013 Author Posted October 25, 2013 (edited) Yes, another sub would fit in quite nicely, but that ship has sailed with CFO. On 25/10/2013 at 9:22 PM, matthewa said: Looks great, is that Dredd you had going, how were you happy with the sound it's got a great 7.1 mix. I think you'll notice in a dedicated room you'll want your equipment lights off as they become a distraction I think it was Dredd. I didn't actually watch the movie (I have seen it before). I just put on something to quickly take some pics so I can't really comment on the 7.1 mix. I sat down and watched Star Trek - Into Darkness. I'm really happy with the Adelaide Speakers. They just have a premium quality sound. The lows between the sub and fronts is really well blended, the highs are very crisp without being harsh and the mids sound really good too. I really do need to treat the room though. The echo is quite obvious. I've got some acoustic panels on the way. With the lights at the front, I actually bought some double black velvet from Spotlight and have laid some across the top of the centre speaker. I bought enough to cover the sub and the front cabinet on the top and front. However, for the moment, I removed the velvet on the sub and cabinet. As I'm still getting used to the AVR, I find it handy to see the front. Later down the track I might dim the lights or put the velvet back. The velvet over the top speaker does a really good job. I'll have to take another pic with the velvet on next time. Edit: Actually, I think I had the velvet on the centre speaker for the shot of Dredd above. Edited October 25, 2013 by timhet
709er Posted October 28, 2013 Posted October 28, 2013 Your room is looking great. The contrasting colour on the soffit edge looks very nice. Good that you have used the velvet to block out screen reflections too. Unwanted light is a nuisance! On 25/10/2013 at 2:39 AM, timhet said: I didn't realise you could get RF controls until you mentioned it. The lights will be a bit of a novelty so it won't bother me too much which option I choose. Will look out for DIY modes. I think I read in your thread about have the 44 key remote. I just want to make sure that I can find one with Australian power connections. I have switched to RF control for lighting. If you want a 17m length, you will need at least 1 amplifier, preferably, 2 and a suitable power supply. The amplifiers also need to be powered. Here are links to recent purchases I have made, though shipping from China ATM, is extremely slow. http://www.ebay.com....984.m1439.l2649 http://www.ebay.com....=item256f66f31a http://www.ebay.com....=item231a46ab04 I have purchased multiple items from the above seller. They have been very reliable. http://www.ebay.com....=item4ac6baa979 (I purchased this 120W supply, but you may need a 150W). These power supplies do not come with a plug. They need to be hard wired to a plug or directly to a switch.
timhet1503564719 Posted October 28, 2013 Author Posted October 28, 2013 (edited) I was going to ask you earlier today about RF controllers. I found an Australian site (they also have stuff on ebay slightly cheaper). It says IR, but it looks RF to me. I've asked them about the modes it has as the remote looks fairly light on. http://www.pingwarra...528-p-1100.html That is a 360Watt controller which would be powerful enough for 20m (using two separate strips running in parallel). What I'm not sure about is if I buy 4 x 5m rolls, whether I can connect the two of the rolls together or whether you need to solder them. Edit: I got a reply from them and it is RF. Looks like it can do a lot of modes, but the remote doesn't look at intuitive as the one you showed. Edited October 28, 2013 by timhet
709er Posted October 28, 2013 Posted October 28, 2013 (edited) On 28/10/2013 at 8:02 AM, timhet said: I was going to ask you earlier today about RF controllers. I found an Australian site (they also have stuff on ebay slightly cheaper). It says IR, but it looks RF to me. I've asked them about the modes it has as the remote looks fairly light on. http://www.pingwarra...528-p-1100.html That is a 360Watt controller which would be powerful enough for 20m (using two separate strips running in parallel). What I'm not sure about is if I buy 4 x 5m rolls, whether I can connect the two of the rolls together or whether you need to solder them. 30A is a big ask for this type of unit. What you have linked to looks like this: http://www.ebay.com....=item19d18d6596 which is half the price - and in Australia! It does not appear to have DIY for colour, though as you say, it looks like it may be an RF unit. Best to email them and check. As far as connections go, you can solder or use terminal blocks as I have done. Are you planning on using 30, or 60 LED's/m strip? All the specs would need to be doubled with the 60! Edit: Took so long replying I missed your edit! I guess you can try it and see. At least a local supplier should provide warantee support, so that's a plus Edited October 28, 2013 by 709er
timhet1503564719 Posted October 29, 2013 Author Posted October 29, 2013 (edited) I am a bit sceptical about the 360Watt controller. I spoke to the guy and I'm not confident I can do it myself as there is only one output on the controller. I asked whether a 1 into 2 connector would work, but he said I would also need some leads to separate the signal. It might be safer and easier to go Power -> Controller -> 5m LED -> 5m LED -> Powered Amplifier -> 5M LED -> 3m LED With the ones you bought Ruth, do they easily go around corners at 90 degrees or will I need right angle connectors do you think? I'm trying to avoid any sort of soldering. From what I understand 30 LEDs per Metre require 7.2watts per meter so 72 Watts for 10m, whereas 60 LEDs per metre require 14.4, so 144 Watts per 10m. I think providing they can be dimmed, 60 is probably better. I think the ones I was looking at were 60, but I'll double check. Edited October 29, 2013 by timhet
timhet1503564719 Posted October 29, 2013 Author Posted October 29, 2013 (edited) I purchased 3 sheets of Polymax Absorb HD100 insulation for some home made bass traps. Each of the three sheets is 2400mm x 1200mm. This should be enough for two corner bass traps and a couple other home made panels. According to the specs, 100mm provides a NRC rating of .55 at 125hz and 1.0 at 250hz. http://www.polymaxin..._Data_Sheet.pdf Edited October 29, 2013 by timhet
709er Posted October 29, 2013 Posted October 29, 2013 On 29/10/2013 at 1:32 AM, timhet said: I am a bit sceptical about the 360Watt controller. I spoke to the guy and I'm not confident I can do it myself as there is only one output on the controller. I asked whether a 1 into 2 connector would work, but he said I would also need some leads to separate the signal. It might be safer and easier to go Power -> Controller -> 5m LED -> 5m LED -> Powered Amplifier -> 5M LED -> 3m LED With the ones you bought Ruth, do they easily go around corners at 90 degrees or will I need right angle connectors do you think? I'm trying to avoid any sort of soldering. From what I understand 30 LEDs per Metre require 7.2watts per meter so 72 Watts for 10m, whereas 60 LEDs per metre require 14.4, so 144 Watts per 10m. I think providing they can be dimmed, 60 is probably better. I think the ones I was looking at were 60, but I'll double check. It does get a bit complicated doesn't it? Your "safe" model looks valid. FYI for my 20m length trials of 30 LEDs/m, I have the power supply connected to the controller. Then, I have ganged 2 x 5m strips to the controller. Each end of each 5m strip, has an amplifier (powered back to the power supply) and another 5m of strip attached. This means I have 10m x 2 going off in opposite directions from the controller to achieve a symmetry to the illumination. You are correct re your power requirements. I have non waterproof strip, and it does bend in one direction very easily, though if you are going around a different plane, allow for a "loop" effect as it is quite stiff and you don't want to fold it - just curl it.
timhet1503564719 Posted October 29, 2013 Author Posted October 29, 2013 (edited) On 29/10/2013 at 5:53 AM, 709er said: It does get a bit complicated doesn't it? FYI for my 20m length trials of 30 LEDs/m, I have the power supply connected to the controller. Then, I have ganged 2 x 5m strips to the controller. So you have two separate strips coming off a single controller? How did you do that? Logistically, I would prefer to have the controller and amplifier next to each other, with 10m connected to each one. I'm not sure if that is technically feasible though. The reason for this is that the theatre room is in the corner of the house and it will be easier getting to the starting corner within the roof cavity. The other three corners will be more challenging. Edited October 29, 2013 by timhet
icker.p Posted October 29, 2013 Posted October 29, 2013 On 29/10/2013 at 1:38 AM, timhet said: I purchased 3 sheets of Polymax Absorb HD100 insulation for some home made bass traps. Each of the three sheets is 2400mm x 1200mm. This should be enough for two corner bass traps and a couple other home made panels. According to the specs, 100mm provides a NRC rating of .55 at 125hz and 1.0 at 250hz. http://www.polymaxin..._Data_Sheet.pdf This looks like a good option for my window as well. Where did you get it from? Did you just contact Polymax directly?
709er Posted October 29, 2013 Posted October 29, 2013 On 29/10/2013 at 7:01 AM, timhet said: So you have two separate strips coming off a single controller? How did you do that? Logistically, I would prefer to have the controller and amplifier next to each other, with 10m connected to each one. I'm not sure if that is technically feasible though. The reason for this is that the theatre room is in the corner of the house and it will be easier getting to the starting corner within the roof cavity. The other three corners will be more challenging. Solder or "twiddle" the two wires together. Your original concept though, is valid so no need to look at my "model".
timhet1503564719 Posted October 29, 2013 Author Posted October 29, 2013 On 29/10/2013 at 7:24 AM, DaytonaMan said: very nice, where did you get the rack unit? Got it from Harvey Norman for $380. Myer have it as well. Its called the Thunder 1500. Top shelf holds 60Kgs and bottom shelves hold 30Kg. On 29/10/2013 at 7:41 AM, icker.p said: This looks like a good option for my window as well. Where did you get it from? Did you just contact Polymax directly? Got it from Build Find http://www.buildfind.com.au I don't think its listed on their webpage, but I phoned them up about another one and they mentioned this so I did some research and bought it. On 29/10/2013 at 7:56 AM, 709er said: Solder or "twiddle" the two wires together. Your original concept though, is valid so no need to look at my "model". Thanks Ruth, will look into it.
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