rapturedigital

Question: how many lines come from the dish - Two or One? If you have two lines/ dual LNB on dish then a 2 input/ 4output multiswitch will work. https://www.amazon.com.au/MagiDeal-Multiswitch-Satellite-Connecting-Simultaneously/dp/B078WTVPMX

Don't know your area but some thoughts: Because you may not being using any test equipment. One way to ascertain signal & quality levels are good enough is to run the antenna direct to one TV only, not through any splitter which reduces the levels. If the channels stay stable then a masthead or distribution amp will be required for more than one TV point. If the channels still break up then the antenna &/or position/ height will require adjusting. With the antennas - my preference is Phased Array ones with 4G filters similar to the the Hills Trumax. You may of already done this but Check out the myswitch website to ascertain whether the tower transmission is vertical or Horizontal & match the antenna accordingly. In terms of you other queries regarding stacking antennas - Not sure

As with the above reply Floor units & wall units are designed differently. One noticeable difference is the construction of the back panel. Floor units usually have thin 5mm mdf cover panels on the back, which isn't suitable for wall mounting. They will have mounting points but are to prevent to unit from falling forward not mount on the wall. You may also find that the floor units are put together differently in terms how the sides & top & bottom are screwed together to provide greater strength to the unit. It is also important, as previously mentioned in above post, even if buying a wall mount unit to mount into the wall structure & across three to four wall studs to spread the load. One idea is to have a unit custom made by a cabinet maker/ kitchen builder. May sound & be expensive but might be worth asking!!

RF Coax Daisy Chain - not going to matter unless you have signal issues. Which will show up on either the two devices or TV. Make sure the cables used are good RG6 quality. Yes you will be able to record on both or separate recorders at the same time. They are just TV's without the screens!!

Does your Samsung TV have any inputs other than through the connection box? If not I would: Connect all your devices directly into the AV receiver - 4hdmi inputs & 1out?? then into the Samsung connect box, which connects to the TV. This should eliminate the need for the optical cable!! This puts all the sound & video into the receiver then sends sound & picture to the TV. Just leave the TV on the HDMI source & change the receiver input as required. Hopefully this does what you need! Let me know if not fully covered!!

At the end of the day - home theatre rooms have a range of design tastes. Some prefer almost total darkness & no noise where others are OK with some natural light & the ability to see outside. Coupled with this is the placement of Speakers etc Depending where you sit on personal taste there are options in the building design & materials that will meet your needs: * Windows with heavy glass &/ or combination of glass & window coverings types that block light & noise * Internal & external doors that are well sealed & are solid core * Positioning of windows for looking out - If on side wall consider side speaker positions first then offset windows to suit * Device cupboard Location - Another important element to consider to where to locate your devices - Possibly best build into a wall - eg maybe Laundry wall. Can be a closed cupboard by using a Remote extender system or using mesh fronted doors. * Pre-cabling - As mentioned in previous post - don't skimp on this - cable is cheap in comparison to the pain of running missed cable later. If you do put in lots of cable for future-proofing you don't have to terminate them just leave in the walls - But have a very detailed plan of where they are & label them both ends. (Tip: cover your labelling with some masking tape so the painters don't spray paint over your markings) * Services cabling to Device Cupboard - Antenna, Foxtel, Network - At least one for Antenna, two for Foxtel & one for network(Add a network switch for multiple devices). * Speaker & Sub Positions - 5.1, 7.1, 9.1 - As mentioned above consider cabling now It is worth writing down what you want as a end result & then talking to builder/ Architect to see the options available & associated cost.

Whoops!! - looks like glazed area is 10% with need for 5% ventilation - extract from BCA website below: Ventilation Requirements:
(build.com.au/bca ventilation requirements) When planning a ventilation system, there are a few building code requirements that you need to be aware of. In particular, the Building Code of Australia (BCA) states that you must have windows that are equal in size to at least 10% of the floor space, for the purpose of natural light – or 3%, for roof lights (or a proportional combination of windows and roof lights). The 5% Ventilation Requirement: For the purpose of ventilation, an openable window or similar aperture is required to be at least 5% of the floor space in that particular area. The area itself may be defined just as one particular room, or a combined set of adjoining spaces. Also, in a room where there is no ceiling fan, the BCA states that you must achieve effective cross ventilation.

Consider double glazed windows & solid core doors with good seals. That should help with any noise. Worth Asking your architect regarding how the ventilation is calculated. You may find that the % may be calculated over the entire house. Where there is more in one area then less may be required in another due to cross ventilation. eg. Home theater Room. Also the internal doors may be included. Also worth talking to a local building certifier as they can help clarify what is exactly required by the codes.

Hi - the 10% question I am assuming is a Energy Efficiency building standard/ Ventilation you are asking about. If that is the case, depending on which climate zone you are in then 10% is correct but it is a ventilation 10% of Habitable Rooms floor area. So the windows that only open 50% of the total window area is counted plus yes the external door is used. Best to check with your architect!! If the 10% is for something else more detail would help!! In terms of furniture access - a single door may give some issues with theatre seating - maybe consider a double gazed sliding glass door, which can give wider access plus add to the ventilation requirements. Hope this helps!!

OK - Tassie - Beautiful place - Hopefully you will find a TV that won't require freight if needing repair. On one last thing regarding HDMI ARC & Optical. In an ideal setup HDMI ARC (Audio return Channel) is all you will require to get sound from your TV to Soundbar. The reason for suggesting to have an optical output is simply as a backup if the HDMI ARC doesn't talk between the TV & Soundbar. Happy Buying!!

Also with the TCL warranty - it seems to read as though TCL can choose for you to send them the TV is requiring repair - Freight cost. One other brand to throw in to the mix(Others may want to throw them out) is Soniq, which I have had warranty claims. Jb Hifi take them at the shop & send them on then return to the shop. Others may have had bad experiences. The warranty claim process is becoming more & more a pain with the requirement for the purchaser to freight to the repairer. which may well be in another state. Worth asking the shop about the specific process for each model considering!!

So it looks like a new TV might be the answer - So which one? Generally the things I give to customers who ask this: Consider Picture Quality you are happy with - Go to store & look - If they all look the same then HD is all you need but if there is one that stands out to you - Maybe FHD or UHD then this ticks this detail. Size to fit Room - As above Features - As mentions there are lots of bells & whistles that you can pay for but never use - As a min you should look for 3-4 HDMI inputs - maybe one ARC, one composite or component input, one Optical audio output. These should cover most devices. If you want Smart capabilities spent some more money or plug in your laptop Price - How much do you want to pay. Brand - Melting pot of personal views - Sorry you possibly won't receive a definitive answer on this one - We all will have personal likes & dislikes plus lemon stories. Personally after ticking the above points maybe if you need some confidence you didn't buy a lemon buy one with a extended warranty so you can replace a lemon if purchased. In saying this warranties can be a false assurance - check what they offer. Hopefully I have covered the main points to consider when buying - others may be able to expand on these points. If you do find a particular Model - ask!! Hope this helps!!

Also agree with Mikeyday post - worth doing some checking, provided your not looking for a reason to upgrade your TV. The headphone 3.5mm should work - I have done exactly the same thing with PC speakers into bedroom TV to Headphone 3.5mm for fuller sound. First make sure 3.5mm plugs are fully in sockets & as suggested replace cable. Maybe a cable or pin fault.(even if it came new with the soundbar) If still static also try plugging the soundbar into another device with 3.5mm - phone, CD player. If static still exists there maybe a fault with the soundbar or the soundbar needs a menu setting change to stereo or L&R. If no static then the TV, as suggested above, may be faulty.

More Info needed about other equipment than the projector - speakers, AV Receiver, etc - photo of system, room?? Not sure what is pictured.

I would also lean towards the Modulator. In TV end terms no other end box - no extra receivers required. The negative is no IR capabilities, which you may or may not require. But if you do want IR in the future. I would suggest looking for one with IR Return so you can upgrade in future to use remotes in other rooms. Maybe look at the Resilink 1603. https://dpanda.com.au/digital-modulators/548-resi-linx-hd-1603.html. The negative with the IR is to use it you need to add their hub & IR targets, which starts to mount up in price. But at least you have it for future. Sorry haven't had much to do with HDMI over network. Very interesting!!

Yes worth checking all connections & also cable quality of Fly leads. I also wonder whether you may be pushing the length capabilities of RCA without some sort of booster. I am assuming that you have used a high end RCA leads. My guess is that you may dropping over the edge of signal when connecting through the walls plates & extra fly leads. If I was doing this I would look for a component balun set of wall plates with IR over cat5/6. Possibly not much more than what was paid for high end RCA cables suitable for that distance plus adds the ability to control device at other end with IR. http://www.radioparts.com.au/product/39894091/pro1254d-audio-video-component-ir-cat5-clipsal-extender-kit#.WA0iNOT_p9A Another way to solve this if you have no success with connections could be to leave the audio cable, which I assume works fine & add a Component video wall plate balun set only over cat5/6. http://www.radioparts.com.au/search-products?productsearch=pro2 pro1200 Hope this helps - happy solving!!

Happy to Help!!

One other option, if I am reading your setup correctly, based on your current setup replace the RCA lead from the DAC to T-Amp with a piggyback RCA lead from Jaycar. https://www.jaycar.com.au/2-x-rca-plugs-with-piggyback-sockets-to-2-x-rca-plugs-1-5mt/p/WA7090 This will put the Chromecast Audio of to the side & will plug directly into the T-Amp. No need for a audio selector or Preamp. You may also need a 3.5mm to Twin RCA for the Chromecast to the piggyback lead if it isn't supplied.

The main info that is important to Speaker cable is length required to each speaker. This determines the gauge required. It your case 10awg with give you 61m runs on an 8ohmn speaker. Possibly on overkill but OK except very thick to terminate at speaker wall plates & Amp. Usually 16 or 18AWG with a protective outer jacket is sufficient. Second is keeping them away from electrical cables. As with Coax cable speaker cable doesn't require a professional installer but as with coax cable it requires a separation from electrical cabling to meet AS. Doesn't apply to speaker cable but would be good practice.

Not sure where your figures are from - Antenna or wall plate. Because you have a booster in the system worth testing at the antenna without booster. Testing with a booster can cover up an antenna reception issue. General Rule is good readings for one TV point then boost for multiple points. If this is fine then another possibility is external interference such as phone towers, ham radio etc. Also if there are trees around the line of the antenna - dew at dusk can cause issues for night time reception - Another thought is if your readings are at the wall plate the booster (What type is it - Masthead or distribution) may be set too high. I work on around 60-63db at the wall plate. Boosters set too high are more susceptible to picking up any local reception noise- Hope this helps!

Faulty box that never crossed my mind as a possibility - Thanks for letting us know & hopefully that will resolve the issue!!

Yes the electronics in the LNB create each output as if they are separated. Power is sent to the LNB from the VAST or Austar box & depending on the voltage sent each LNB output switches between V (13V) & H (18V). The STB controls the power based on the channel selected. Yes also to a multi-switch.

Yes - I have also done this. Also because VAST only uses the V polarity you only need to run one cable from the LNB then if you need other TV points connected (Each requiring there own VAST box) you can use a satellite splitter in the roof space.

Looks right but Local Knowledge may help here. Amp does filter above & below the frequencies required. Jaycar Price - Ouch! If you were to pay there price I would phone a local installer who would do some testing plus install amp for not much more Check out Radio Parts - Model: MHW35FP & KPS06 Masthead Kit for same amp & Power Supply. If you want to DIY let us know so we can provide some install advice.

It looks like you are receiving an adequate reception to other devices. My guess is your signal levels @ the wall-plate are around 45-47db with OK picture quality readings. I question the 35db stated by Foxtel. But also now that an adjustment to the antenna has been made. Test Try bypassing the splitter by buying a f to f joiner & joining directly from the antenna to the line going to where the fox IQ box is located. By doing this it takes out the10db loss from the system that is created by the splitter. Then check whether you are now receiving FTA on Fox IQ . If so it indicates that your system signal is just below what the IQ box requires. This means that you may require an amp to boost around 10-15db. If so Look for an Masthead amp 20-30db gain with an LTE filter with adjustable gain controls & switchable between VHF/UHF & UHF only. Q. Splitter - Yes you can leave the power-pass splitter in place. One other consideration is whether you are using all 6 outlets if not reduce the splitter to only the number required.