Furutechfan Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 (edited) After reading numerous reviews on the forums about how great these capacitors were for any and every application, I decided to give it a try. So I purchased a pair of .47uf for my heavily modified Audio Note M2 preamp as I was longing for a greater sense of space and ambience in my recording playback. The first few hours were unlistenable and I was really concerned that I dropped $400 on some poor matching capacitors. So I let the capacitor cook for another 24 hours. I listened with trepidation again and wow !! for the first time I could hear where Kim Arnesen's Magnificat was recorded..the ambience from the large church and scale of the choir came through. Mind you, the capacitor I replaced was no slouch as it was the venerable Jensen PIO in paper casing. Across the frequency range, I would say that the Jensen has not got an answer to the Duelund Cast Cu. Bass is better defined and has a more palpable transient attack, the entire recording just comes through significantly more. I purchased the cheaper Duelund RS for my lampizator L4 dac so that will also be an interesting experiment. The Lampi currently spots a Jensen PIO in copper casing. I just wanted to share my experience with the web community since I have learnt so much. Changing a cap for me made a larger difference compared to the change of a $4000 DAC or $2000 interconnect so when viewed in that light, $400 is chump change. Edited June 23, 2015 by lyndonlim 2
Once was an audiophile Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 You need more then 24hrs to get them on song
Furutechfan Posted June 22, 2015 Author Posted June 22, 2015 (edited) You need more then 24hrs to get them on song Okay good tip. They became more listenable after 24 hours and sounded really good already. I am leaving them playing for at least 2 weeks non stop. I reckon the Duelunds are one of those capacitors which won't just change the sound or shift it from brighter to darker or vice versa...what it does is just let more information embedded in the original recording through. I have always made a big deal out of HD recording etc but I really never knew that even red book quality had so much information we are currently missing because our information is all tied up by sub standard capacitor quality....not different...just less better IMO. And any device or component that constricts information is not a good thing in my book because it obscures what the recording artist is trying to impart. Think about how much planning and financial commitment goes into recording some of the good stuff, only to have the listener truncate higher frequencies because that fella likes a warmer sound ?????? Edited June 22, 2015 by lyndonlim 1
Furutechfan Posted June 22, 2015 Author Posted June 22, 2015 You need more then 24hrs to get them on song I also got a bit nervous after hearing it post installation because part of me actually believed the people who say that they did not believe in equipment burn in, that there was no such thing. But after letting it play for 24 hours, then coming back to have a listen I was glad that that crowd got it wrong again, for me anyway. 2
Guest Muon Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 Congrats, sounds like you are a convert I'm a Duelund fan, but am trying some Copper Jupiters soon. But I have Duelund Alexandra caps in my main amp, and they are likely suspects for replacement with Duelund RS, so keep us informed on ya' thoughts when you get those too
Furutechfan Posted June 22, 2015 Author Posted June 22, 2015 Congrats, sounds like you are a convert I'm a Duelund fan, but am trying some Copper Jupiters soon. But I have Duelund Alexandra caps in my main amp, and they are likely suspects for replacement with Duelund RS, so keep us informed on ya' thoughts when you get those too After hearing what the Cast Pio can do, I wished I had sprung for the Cast as well but I read that the RS is pretty close to the Cast. So far, the capacitor reviews on popular websites have been consistent with what I am hearing regardless of the whether the application in speakers or electronics.
Guest Muon Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 (edited) After hearing what the Cast Pio can do, I wished I had sprung for the Cast as well but I read that the RS is pretty close to the Cast. So far, the capacitor reviews on popular websites have been consistent with what I am hearing regardless of the whether the application in speakers or electronics. Yeah, the construction is like the CAST, I have read that the RS are SQ wise somewhere between the old VSFs and the CAST, and i loved the VSFs. Edit: Many people preferred the VSFs, so I doubt you will be disappointed with the RS caps if they are in-between the two Edited June 22, 2015 by ortofun
legselevens Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 (edited) Thanks for posting lindonlim. Did you mean ).47 value? Are they large in size? I have an early AN M1 pre amp which I'm yet to try new caps in. Current ones which are original are surprisingly ERTO 1822? mylar caps. I was thinking about AN ones but I'll have to consider whether I spring for a pair of Duelunds. Do you have a link for a seller? Edited June 23, 2015 by legselevens
Guest Muon Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Wound have to be 0.47uf, as they don't make a 47uf cap...and it would be huge and cost a fortune anyway
Full Range Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 (edited) I have used Duelund Resistors to great effect and results on my crossovers But I haven't used the capacitors And I agree with the advice of, lots more hours are needed to settle them in - I would say 400 hours should do it Edited June 23, 2015 by Full Range
Furutechfan Posted June 23, 2015 Author Posted June 23, 2015 Yes. Sorry the value is .47uf and not 47. I reckon it will be worth the money if your capacitor is part of the output stage. I believe the improvement would be significant especially for tube gear as it's a less complex design compared to SS...so any changes are likely to be more audible because of simpler circuitry.
Furutechfan Posted June 23, 2015 Author Posted June 23, 2015 Thanks for posting lindonlim. Did you mean ).47 value? Are they large in size? As much as I like AN, I don't think they are in the same league as the duelund cast. I have an early AN M1 pre amp which I'm yet to try new caps in. Current ones which are original are surprisingly ERTO 1822? mylar caps. I was thinking about AN ones but I'll have to consider whether I spring for a pair of Duelunds. Do you have a link for a seller?
andyr Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 I also got a bit nervous after hearing it post installation because part of me actually believed the people who say that they did not believe in equipment burn in, that there was no such thing. But after letting it play for 24 hours, then coming back to have a listen I was glad that that crowd got it wrong again, for me anyway. AIUI, you need at least 200hrs burn-in for them to get on song. (And I've heard 400 hrs. ) Andy
legselevens Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Seller is partsconnexion.com Thanks for the info. I thought you might say them.
Furutechfan Posted June 23, 2015 Author Posted June 23, 2015 AIUI, you need at least 200hrs burn-in for them to get on song. (And I've heard 400 hrs. ) Andy I am afraid you are correct. I just had a listen at 70hr burn in mark and it sounded terrible again...harsh, bright and lacking in soundstage depth. After 24hrs, it sounded really neutral, sweet and very resolving. Its interesting how many people describe the same experience. Let's not get into the metallurgical reasonings.
andyr Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 I am afraid you are correct. I just had a listen at 70hr burn in mark and it sounded terrible again...harsh, bright and lacking in soundstage depth. After 24hrs, it sounded really neutral, sweet and very resolving. Its interesting how many people describe the same experience. Let's not get into the metallurgical reasonings. It seems to me that anyone who does cap-rolling ... needs to have a 'cap-burning' device! Andy
Furutechfan Posted June 24, 2015 Author Posted June 24, 2015 This exercise has been a real revelation to me in terms of what a great preamp can bring to the table. On the past, I have always been a shortest path signal believer, that is I believe the best solution was always an integrated amplifier because of the simplicity of a single box solution. Having just experience what a good preamp can do, I would go so far to even say that it has made the biggest difference to my music output. I reckon a preamp is also the hardest component to choose because there is so much low quality big brand garbage out there with very big price tags. I tend to disagree when people say that the speakers play the most important role. IMO the source and amplification quality are more crucial.
Guest Muon Posted June 25, 2015 Posted June 25, 2015 I have used Duelund Resistors to great effect and results on my crossovers But I haven't used the capacitors And I agree with the advice of, lots more hours are needed to settle them in - I would say 400 hours should do it I have been curious about those Duelund Resistors, as well as their inductors and wire, but have yet to try any. Maybe next year I'll venture into looking at some of those, maybe the hookup wire first.
Furutechfan Posted June 25, 2015 Author Posted June 25, 2015 (edited) I have been curious about those Duelund Resistors, as well as their inductors and wire, but have yet to try any. Maybe next year I'll venture into looking at some of those, maybe the hookup wire first. I am using Duelund 2.0 as RCA connects, in a blind test with 2 friends, it murdered my $2,000 ANVX Audio Note silver cable. It had more of everything...articulation, soundstaging depth and was just as sweet sounding. Cost = bugger all compared to big brands. You can order these from partsconnexion or the hificollective uk....cheap for what it can achieve. It will eat most things out there IMO because my Audio Note was better than many over shielded (life killing) big brand cables and the duelund's perceived superiority over the AN was so convincing that all 3 of use dumped out AN cables out on eBay. Of course I can now share with you our findings because we have already dump our AN RCA interconnects. lol !!! Edited June 25, 2015 by lyndonlim 2
Guest Muon Posted June 25, 2015 Posted June 25, 2015 I am using Duelund 2.0 as RCA connects, in a blind test with 2 friends, it murdered my $2000 ANVX Audio Note silver cable. It had more of everything...articulation, soundstaging depth and was just as sweet sounding. Cost = bugger all compared to big brands. Sweet! I was looking at the 1.0 ribbon in impregnated silk for ICs, and maybe the 2.0 for speaker cables but these would be a long way off for myself.
Furutechfan Posted June 25, 2015 Author Posted June 25, 2015 Not sure about speaker cables use from the Duelunds. They may need more shielding compared to what the Duelunds can provide because of the longer length.
Guest Muon Posted June 25, 2015 Posted June 25, 2015 (edited) Not sure about speaker cables use from the Duelunds. They may need more shielding compared to what the Duelunds can provide because of the longer length. I avoid shielding as such in anything but low level applications like phono cables. Mind you i would possible have it in a secondary silk sheath or cotton one. Edited June 25, 2015 by ortofun
Furutechfan Posted June 25, 2015 Author Posted June 25, 2015 That may work quite well so maybe buy a shorter length to try first. Can't lose really because you can always chop it into shorter lengths to sell off as RCA cables if it does not work out as speaker cables.
Gryffles Posted June 25, 2015 Posted June 25, 2015 Sweet! I was looking at the 1.0 ribbon in impregnated silk for ICs, and maybe the 2.0 for speaker cables but these would be a long way off for myself. I also made some IC's from Duelund 1.0 wire in silk with KLE silver plugs. Gave my expensive Kondo IC's a kicking yet may not suit everyone as is the nature of such things!
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