Jump to content
IGNORED

Deep End DIY - My first speaker project


acg

Recommended Posts

Nothing to see here...move along...

 

59596c4f91135_MorningGlory.jpg.a7404e3d596507d81c0e8ec14fac0f23.jpg

 

59596c528da1c_MorningGlorySide2.thumb.jpg.1b8d8b2c1afa795f8397f617b74a08ae.jpg

 

59596c55b538b_MorningGloryFront.jpg.6916723bb85b39b0f9bbd3b61da48182.jpg

 

59596c53b4b9c_MorningGloryEarHeight.thumb.jpg.1edc1f6f500c4334e5ea908e37f684d3.jpg

 

59596c517fb44_MorningGloryTinyML1.thumb.jpg.e6668cc4f76409d7d1480498f914a091.jpg

 

Those ML1's look tiny.  Brought my wife up yesterday to have a look and I had some BB King playing very loudly through the standmounts and this was the entire conversation:

 

Meg to Anth: Is that music playing through these horns?

Anth to Meg: No, these won't have sound for months.

Meg to Anth:  Well these little ones do sound very ok.  Why do you need these big ones?

 

Silence

 

Anth to Meg:  You'll see one day.  I hope.

 

 

In real life I love the look of the horn stack thus far.  There is the right balance of strength and beauty and the different textures of the powdercoated steel and hammered paint on the horns looks fabulous.  As soon as I put up the horns and stood back I made my decision as to how I will treat the 30mm aluminium rods that hold the horns.  I had been tempted by brass, a black patina, brushed aluminium but I think that once the rods are the correct length (at the moment I hope they are a bit long) I will polish them.  That will give the setup just a tiny bit of bling but only if you look for it.

 

Happy days!

  • Like 12
Link to comment
Share on other sites



I also sincerely asked my wife, who has medical training, if there was any such organ as the 'poofoo', because I think I very nearly had popped mine getting those top horns into the stack.  

 

Seriously though, I could not get the top horn into the stack while the stack was standing...you don't have a lot left over when you are holding 20-30kg above your head.  In the end I lay the entire stack down on the floor, installed the last horn and then proceeded to lift the thing back upright.  That was heavy and to get it from waist high to upright I had very little strength in reserve, but thankfully a very straight back.  Two blokes would be able to get that horn in and out of an upright horn stack, but if I am to do it myself the rod lengths have to be finalised before I install the amplifier.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No.

 

There has actually been a big discussion about angling of horns (or making them non-parallel) on Romys site and the quite firm opinion is that it does not work as we think it would.  The opinion was firm enough that I did not consider it in my design.  Saying that, even sitting very close to the horns as I will be I can see the driver in all of the horns.  Ear height is exactly at the level of the centre of the small midrange horn 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



No.
 
There has actually been a big discussion about angling of horns (or making them non-parallel) on Romys site and the quite firm opinion is that it does not work as we think it would.  The opinion was firm enough that I did not consider it in my design.  Saying that, even sitting very close to the horns as I will be I can see the driver in all of the horns.  Ear height is exactly at the level of the centre of the small midrange horn 

Interesting. Will need to check it out. Less likely to be necessary as you go up in the frequency range?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those RAALs will sound so much better once you slide the covers off ;) (actually you haven't left yourself any room top or bottom to slide them off. You will need to do it very carefully from the side)

59596c517fb44_MorningGloryTinyML1.thumb.jpg.e6668cc4f76409d7d1480498f914a091.jpg

Edited by Silent Screamer
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Everything is there from 1kHz up...but I am working on the Bass Cannons.  Current thoughts are that once the steelwork is finished that I return to the lathe and finish the upperbass horns.  That will leave the building of the amplifiers for spring if I have a good run at things.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No.
 
There has actually been a big discussion about angling of horns (or making them non-parallel) on Romys site and the quite firm opinion is that it does not work as we think it would.  The opinion was firm enough that I did not consider it in my design.  Saying that, even sitting very close to the horns as I will be I can see the driver in all of the horns.  Ear height is exactly at the level of the centre of the small midrange horn 

Where is that site? Might as well have a look. IIRC you have quoted it once or twice as the source of -- slightly unusual -- statements. [emoji41]
Link to comment
Share on other sites



15 minutes ago, acg said:

Everything is there from 1kHz up...but I am working on the Bass Cannons.  Current thoughts are that once the steelwork is finished that I return to the lathe and finish the upperbass horns.  That will leave the building of the amplifiers for spring if I have a good run at things.

 

I like the idea of finishing the horns first, you can always provide another amp source temporarily. Also probably not a bad idea to hear them in case you want to make sonic changes to the amps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Newman said:


Where is that site? Might as well have a look. IIRC you have quoted it once or twice as the source of -- slightly unusual -- statements. emoji41.png

 

Here 'tis.

 

I cannot remember where the angled horns discussion was but you may be able to find it in the "Horn Loaded" section of the site.

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As a five-way system owner with 4 channels of horn load like yours, I have actually experimented with angling horns and preferred them straight. It may work when you need to sit closer then you should with a big horn system, but it becomes a singular point and has wider variations when you move around. It also effects the main sound you listen at the spot. This is maybe because of different reflections coming to add to the main sound, I do not know. There is also the problem of more hf energy and a db more attenuation is needed with mine, the spl also becomes a little more ragged. With them straight, and with the right distance, they sound better to me and this is not a guess. This is from experience :) When they are straight, you can also enjoy the system when you sit behind the sweet spot for two more rows (though we look ridiculous sitting as if we are on a train)

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Okan.  I remember reading that Jessie (at GSC) did similar experiments with this 5 way horn system and had similar experiences.  It was just not an experiment that I thought I had to spend my time planning and doing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



13 hours ago, acg said:

 

Here 'tis.

 

I cannot remember where the angled horns discussion was but you may be able to find it in the "Horn Loaded" section of the site.

 

 

OK thanks. At least now I understand the philosophy behind the thinking generally. I didn't manage to chase down the angled horns discussion, but that's okay, I was more generally interested.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anthony, have you tried the bitumen pads they sell for cars to dampen your bass cannons. They generally work well, maybe you can cover the inside of the pipes with this material. If you haven't tried, I suggest you give it a go :) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Possibly a dumb suggestion, but could you coat the inside of the cannons with a two pack type of deadening compound (or a slow setting compound) and leave them rotating slowly in the lathe until the compound is set to obtain an even coating ........?????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, kodomo said:

Anthony, have you tried the bitumen pads they sell for cars to dampen your bass cannons. They generally work well, maybe you can cover the inside of the pipes with this material. If you haven't tried, I suggest you give it a go :) 

 

I have some on order and hopefully I will see them some time next week.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Ancientflatulence said:

Possibly a dumb suggestion, but could you coat the inside of the cannons with a two pack type of deadening compound (or a slow setting compound) and leave them rotating slowly in the lathe until the compound is set to obtain an even coating ........?????

 

That is actually a pretty good idea...a bit time consuming but doable.  I could make up a jig and would get a few done per day.  If the automotive damping sheets don't work I may have to give that a go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



 
That is actually a pretty good idea...a bit time consuming but doable.  I could make up a jig and would get a few done per day.  If the automotive damping sheets don't work I may have to give that a go.

Some rollerblade wheels, a motor and a belt and your away!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/3/2017 at 8:50 AM, acg said:

There has actually been a big discussion about angling of horns (or making them non-parallel) on Romys site and the quite firm opinion is that it does not work as we think it would.

 

Yes - I tend to agree in this type of system to not angle the horns being the best balance of compromises.    Typically you would (could) angle them, but with such a large separation distance, and overlap of frequencies - then better not

Edited by davewantsmoore
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/3/2017 at 11:11 AM, Newman said:

Where is that site? Might as well have a look. IIRC you have quoted it once or twice as the source of -- slightly unusual -- statements. emoji41.png

 

HAH.   Enjoy.   I don't think you'll find it at all to your liking.   :-p

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.




×
×
  • Create New...
To Top