Jump to content

Deep End DIY - My first speaker project


acg

Recommended Posts

Bit of legwork is in order to get this lump upstairs.  There is another pallet of cannons in the tray of the ute..

 

.Legwork.jpg.9d896672c56b371dde41414c4ea64743.jpg

 

Legwork2.jpg.06562b5988b30f45c5209e2d246c0088.jpg

 

I've got to say this all looks smaller now that it is black!

 

 

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites



So am I.  Once I got everything upstairs (except the assisted lift stuff) I had half an hour to kill so I put the Teflon tape onto the bottom of the horn chassis in an effort to keep the horn stack moveable once everything is attached and it weighs 400kg or so.  Expensive stuff that Teflon tape but it has certainly made things more slippery.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites



The new equipment rack is up and together.  It is four shelves with the middle two adjustable.  The shelves are a constrained layer damped arrangement of 10mm steel/vicoelastic polymer/2mm aluminium which keeps the weight down, sort of, but in the end is difficult to excite to vibration and then damps itself quickly.  I think it looks good.  Weight for the bare rack is about 110kg but the uprights are extruded aluminium and I might just sand fill them to mass damp them as well.  I have just thrown the gear in and this is not the final arrangement: yet to come are four isolation platforms, one for each shelf (still building those) and then I am going to have to make some interconnects so it all fits together.

 

5949d97fdaa20_EquipmentRack.thumb.jpg.6ca08cecdf57c5c6fa34e1db5ed491b3.jpg

 

 

It might just be a simple metal rack, but I have made an effort to make it look acceptable...

 

Detail.jpg.e651db1c682106513b8d6a5d3fc7439b.jpg

 

 

The room is still very much a mess (note the copper coloured aluminium parts sitting on the towel waiting for the paint to cure) but it is slowly getting there.  The horn chassis' are in place dwarfing the ML1's.  I might even think about mounting some horns one day soon, but there is more steel work first to do.

 

5949dcd90059a_Stillamess.jpg.4afb753fd2bf850968cec71ef559472c.jpg 

 

Not shown above are the baskets that will take the big 1m diameter upperbass horn.  The industrial vibration mounts that go between the baskets and the horn chassis are yet to arrive from the US so I cannot install the baskets yet.  A cork strip will be glued to the two curved uprights onto which the big horn will sit.

5949de4707376_UBHornBaskets.jpg.da468b2a6bf1eec58adf7f69dd8dd988.jpg

 

Anyway, I'm listening to some Neil Young and Crazy Horse so I think I will go and sit down for 5 minutes before moving onto the next bit of work.

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, acg said:

 I might even think about mounting some horns one day soon, but there is more steel work first to do.

 

 

35 minutes ago, Silent Screamer said:

I'm as giddy as girl on prom night :D I can finally see it all coming together.

 

Well, I was cleaning off my electronics bench and had to find a spot for the RAAL tweeters so I pressed some bushes into the horn chassis' and slid in the tweeters.  So I am standing there just a little excited and the thought came over me that perhaps I should install the other horns onto the horn stack even if it is only for looking at...

 

...I think I will...

 

...but there is a bit of work to do before I can get them mounted and I don't have time today, but perhaps I can find an hour here and there to get it done this week...we will see.

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is ridiculous!!!!!

 

I as another unworthy member of The Deep End fan club would just like to voice my appreciation and overwhelming sense of awe at what is happening here. 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
Well, I was cleaning off my electronics bench and had to find a spot for the RAAL tweeters so I pressed some bushes into the horn chassis' and slid in the tweeters.  So I am standing there just a little excited and the thought came over me that perhaps I should install the other horns onto the horn stack even if it is only for looking at...
 
...I think I will...
 
...but there is a bit of work to do before I can get them mounted and I don't have time today, but perhaps I can find an hour here and there to get it done this week...we will see.
 

Mile stone mate! Always a good motivator. Can't wait for the photos.
And I'm with Shaky. Couldnt have said it better.
Link to comment
Share on other sites



Thanks guys.  Yes it is a milestone, things are visibly going forward in the room...at last!

 

Reminds me of a conversation I had with my wife last night after she just helped me carry up a couple of big lumps of steel into my room.

 

Anth to Meg:. Who makes things black?  There's dust all over this stuff already!

 

Meg to Anth:  That is not the craziest audio decision you've made.  [raises eyebrow toward the 2m tall pillar she just carried up the stairs]

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys.  Yes it is a milestone, things are visibly going forward in the room...at last!
 
Reminds me of a conversation I had with my wife last night after she just helped me carry up a couple of big lumps of steel into my room.
 
Anth to Meg:. Who makes things black?  There's dust all over this stuff already!
 
Meg to Anth:  That is not the craziest audio decision you've made.  [raises eyebrow toward the 2m tall pillar she just carried up the stairs]

Helps you carry stuff AND has a sense of humor! She's a keeper!
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice when things start taking shape. The whole setup looks impressive, even in its current state.

 

Just curious... you sure the floor will not come crashing down after all is installed? Watching "Terminator 2" sure will rock some foundations....

Link to comment
Share on other sites



First Anti-Vibration Rack is done (just three to go).

 

It's not overkill, not really.  Have a look at the CLD for the platform below (it's upside down)...

 

594f6dd93b908_NotOverkill.jpg.80bbab2b1de4f2fde52fc91159701e30.jpg

 

20mm steel top-plate (black) >> vicoelastic polymer >> 6mm steel plate >> vicoelastic polymer >> 16mm steel plate >> vicoelastic polymer >> 2mm aluminium plate.  No, not overkill (haha), but necessary when you think about the design as a whole.  Three industrial pneumatic isolators are used to isolate the platform from what is underneath and each of these best operates when when the static load approaches 45kg each (135kg total), but excellent performance is reached when the total static load is above 70kg, so I need weight sitting on those three isolators and the least expensive way to buy weight is with steel plate so that is what I did.  Try hitting that platform and you cannot get it to ring at all, it is almost dead in its vibratory characteristics!  All up the platform is 73kg empty.

 

To improve the performance of the pneumatic isolators I added some damping tubes which are connected to three schraeder valves (bicycle tubes have these valves) on a front panel.  Connect a small compressor, squirt in a bit of air to reach the optimum height and then let a little air out if required to level the platform.  I have designed the platform so that the weight is evenly distributed between the three isolators so I can pretty much apply the same pressure to each one and the platform is level...it works like a charm.

 

This is the bracket that sits on the equipment rack and hold the base of the isolators and all the air lines and tubes...

 

Accumulators.jpg.035d6f069a631a8b92210e2bcf21a8aa.jpg  

 

...and now attached to the platform (note that the entire thing is still upside down).

594f6ddf6ac36_BellyTickle.jpg.129ec9c61c6caba2b694598b8a598327.jpg

 

 

Smack a bit of Teflon tape on the underside, turn it right way up, stick it on the rack, pump some air into it and it looks like this sitting under my wonderful dac...

 

594f6dde5ba16_AllPumpedUp.jpg.7a10d221b5eace6771f1e18b9e14d34e.jpg

 

594f6ddb9cd6f_SideView.jpg.65bf60578f0ddb95a2ea2a0e1c7b6289.jpg

 

That's the nice thing about doing this diy, I can make the platform exactly the size required to fit the equipment.  I am considering changing out the stainless steel M4 countersunk screws for black ones...I don't think I need the bling.

 

The bottom of these particular isolators is aluminium and looks ok peeking out from under the hem of the platform...

 

Downunder.jpg.669ca545f52aa7246fe8e869dd644974.jpg

 

I'll check it for leaks tomorrow and if there are none then the job is done, and I can move onto finishing the other three of these platforms.

 

Edited by acg
spelling, dammit
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/25/2017 at 11:02 PM, Ancientflatulence said:

OK ........ a challenge .......... tell us what you think may be overkill .............. :):)

 

ok, ok...I was just trying to get out that there was a point to the 73kg of overkill and that was to make something to suit the isolators that I am using...it was not overkill for overkill's sake.  

 

Although, this entire project certainly has feet firmly planted in overkill territory...you've seen the Bass Cannons and the giant 1R output transformer?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey, @Upfront, this is my guillotine...

 

Gaskets.jpg.ad97a0045abba9332e633a5502f2d228.jpg

 

It's a bit under utilised cutting 2mm cork into 10mm wide strips, but it is really nice to be able to get perfectly straight cuts and identical gasket strips while barely thinking what I am doing.  I cut about 130 10mm wide strips for the brace gaskets for the Bass Cannons along with four wider ones to the baskets that will hold the big upperbass horn.  One end of one of those baskets is shown below with the nitrile cork glued in place...

 

5951c755cbf9d_GasketsUB.jpg.f0589f6cb4e535b6d9246033bebba002.jpg

 

Likewise, below is a shot of the cork gaskets for the cannon braces...

 

5951c754ea591_GasketsCannons.jpg.15372f5ac9c3237764da6891c0f29e04.jpg

 

In real life they add a nice little contrast of both colour and texture which will improve the look of the cannons just a little.  The cable glands turned up yesterday and I think that I will make up a punch tool to make nice little nitrile cork gaskets to sit between the glands and the cannons...should look good.

 

I have assembled just one tube and braced it up tight and am experimenting with different amounts of bracing and its effect on ringing of the steel tube.  Just knock tests at this stage but even with four braces as shown in the shot below there it a tiny bit of latent ringing that I want to rid.  This is entirely expected:  the braces are excellent for really dulling amplitude of the ringing but the steel (like wood or any other material) stores energy and releases it later at its leisure.  I've been looking at some industrial paint coatings as well as butyl rubber/aluminium foil adhesive damping sheets and have ordered some of the latter to test to see if I can dissipate that stored energy more quickly.  At the moment, if I talk directly into the tube, there is a little metallic sheen to my reflected voice and I am pretty sure that given the very low excursion of the Bass Cannons that I will know when I have added enough damping when the "reflected metallic sheen" disappears.  Hopefully it is that easy!

 

5951c7540a68e_CannonRing.jpg.c85d51906cc6ccb93372e45757a75630.jpg 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites



Hey, [mention=111049]Upfront[/mention], this is my guillotine...

 

Gaskets.jpg.ad97a0045abba9332e633a5502f2d228.jpg

 

It's a bit under utilised cutting 2mm cork into 10mm wide strips, but it is really nice to be able to get perfectly straight cuts and identical gasket strips while barely thinking what I am doing.  I cut about 130 10mm wide strips for the brace gaskets for the Bass Cannons along with four wider ones to the baskets that will hold the big upperbass horn.  One end of one of those baskets is shown below with the nitrile cork glued in place...

 

5951c755cbf9d_GasketsUB.jpg.f0589f6cb4e535b6d9246033bebba002.jpg

 

Likewise, below is a shot of the cork gaskets for the cannon braces...

 

5951c754ea591_GasketsCannons.jpg.15372f5ac9c3237764da6891c0f29e04.jpg

 

In real life they add a nice little contrast of both colour and texture which will improve the look of the cannons just a little.  The cable glands turned up yesterday and I think that I will make up a punch tool to make nice little nitrile cork gaskets to sit between the glands and the cannons...should look good.

 

I have assembled just one tube and braced it up tight and am experimenting with different amounts of bracing and its effect on ringing of the steel tube.  Just knock tests at this stage but even with four braces as shown in the shot below there it a tiny bit of latent ringing that I want to rid.  This is entirely expected:  the braces are excellent for really dulling amplitude of the ringing but the steel (like wood or any other material) stores energy and releases it later at its leisure.  I've been looking at some industrial paint coatings as well as butyl rubber/aluminium foil adhesive damping sheets and have ordered some of the latter to test to see if I can dissipate that stored energy more quickly.  At the moment, if I talk directly into the tube, there is a little metallic sheen to my reflected voice and I am pretty sure that given the very low excursion of the Bass Cannons that I will know when I have added enough damping when the "reflected metallic sheen" disappears.  Hopefully it is that easy!

 

5951c7540a68e_CannonRing.jpg.c85d51906cc6ccb93372e45757a75630.jpg 

I admire your attention to detail Anthony. Very nice touch with the cork.

Dynamat would work wonders on the bass cannons. PingJing is another product that is very similar. Avaliable on ebay very cheaply. Spray on ute liner may also work. It would give a nice rough surface inside the tube once sprayed too.

Keep the photos coming mate. I need some ideas to mount my horns properly so I'm watching with interest.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, Upfront said:

I admire your attention to detail Anthony. Very nice touch with the cork.

Dynamat would work wonders on the bass cannons. PingJing is another product that is very similar. Avaliable on ebay very cheaply. Spray on ute liner may also work. It would give a nice rough surface inside the tube once sprayed too.

Keep the photos coming mate. I need some ideas to mount my horns properly so I'm watching with interest.

 

 

Yes, those are the sort of things that I have been looking at.  I have an issue in that I cannot spray the inside of the cannons (10" diameter) which leaves application by brush or perhaps roller.  All the anti-vibration coatings that I could find that had numbers to back them up had little caveats against them saying that brushing or rolling will mitigate in some way the damping properties of the coating, so are of no use to me at all.  This really was the direction that I wanted to go, but in the end I found a nice thread in which a guy purchased a lot of the automotive type butyl rubber/aluminium CLD products and measured them on his test rig (which corresponded quite well to how I intend to use them) and displayed frequency response and waterfall plots from REW.  A very nice find indeed!  

 

I figured out which of those products I could get and then how much I would have to pay to get them and the did a value judgement based on that guys measurements.  In the end I have purchased a product similar to Dynamat that performs a little better (according to the tests) and is less expensive.  It has to come from the UK though, but just about all this stuff has to come from overseas one way or another.  

 

No tests on PingJing, but the price of that stuff looks good.  Of the 15 or so products this guy tested there were several that did next to nothing but add weight which does nothing but shift the resonant frequencies without attenuating or damping them. So given that I had some comparative objective information for several of these products I was not willing to take a punt on something that has less likelihood of working in my application.  Afterall, trying to yank some useless adhesive butyl sheets from the inside of a 10" steel pipe is a recipe for lost skin, bruises and much swearing.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
Yes, those are the sort of things that I have been looking at.  I have an issue in that I cannot spray the inside of the cannons (10" diameter) which leaves application by brush or perhaps roller.  All the anti-vibration coatings that I could find that had numbers to back them up had little caveats against them saying that brushing or rolling will mitigate in some way the damping properties of the coating, so are of no use to me at all.  This really was the direction that I wanted to go, but in the end I found a nice thread in which a guy purchased a lot of the automotive type butyl rubber/aluminium CLD products and measured them on his test rig (which corresponded quite well to how I intend to use them) and displayed frequency response and waterfall plots from REW.  A very nice find indeed!  
 
I figured out which of those products I could get and then how much I would have to pay to get them and the did a value judgement based on that guys measurements.  In the end I have purchased a product similar to Dynamat that performs a little better (according to the tests) and is less expensive.  It has to come from the UK though, but just about all this stuff has to come from overseas one way or another.  
 
No tests on PingJing, but the price of that stuff looks good.  Of the 15 or so products this guy tested there were several that did next to nothing but add weight which does nothing but shift the resonant frequencies without attenuating or damping them. So given that I had some comparative objective information for several of these products I was not willing to take a punt on something that has less likelihood of working in my application.  Afterall, trying to yank some useless adhesive butyl sheets from the inside of a 10" steel pipe is a recipe for lost skin, bruises and much swearing.

Do you have a link for the stuff you ended up with?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, Upfront said:


Do you have a link for the stuff you ended up with?

 

This is the stuff.  Mine is coming from fleabay with their cheaper shipping.  I got the 2mm stuff, but the 4mm version of the same product is the ducks nuts apparently but it is much more expensive and I just don't think I need it, plus I don't want to lose too much real estate from inside the cannons.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

sweet stuff and timely advice as I'm building a set of door skins for my Troopy, with 70w kevlar 6 and a quarters, to complete the 3 way front stage

 

That stuff will go on the door outer skins :love

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.




×
×
  • Create New...
To Top