Bigmattyevans Posted June 9, 2014 Posted June 9, 2014 I've been reading up on veneering with view to veneering my MDF speaker cabinets. I've never veneered before so here are a couple of newbee questions: 1) I am assuming that it is best to veneer after the speakers are built rather than sheet by sheet prior to gluing. I've read that if you veneer one side without veneering the other that sheets can bend. I presume that if the speakers are glued together this won't occur. Sound reasonable? 2) There are a few places where I could round the corners of my box to give it a softer look, reduce diffraction from the edge, and make the boxes less likely to get damaged corners. If I did this would it make veneering much harder? 3) I'm planning on using bamboo vaneer onto MDF. It apparently behaves similar to "normal" timber veneers. Any suggestions re: adhesives and/application methods that might work best. FYI, this is my build thread so far: http://www.stereo.net.au/forums/index.php?/topic/66444-complete-system-build-based-around-pse-144-horn-build-log/
Jone5y Posted June 9, 2014 Posted June 9, 2014 My response, which may be corrected by those that have done more veneering and speaker building than myself. I would veneer beforehand, preferably before driver holes etc have been cut. Theory being it is easier to work with simple flat sheets of mdf than dealing with intricate curves and angles. A flush trim bit can make life easier though. I don't think veneer will bend MDF the thickness you are working with. Yes, much harder. It would still be possible with softened veneer and a vacuum press. maybe. there are a variety of methods with their own pros and cons. Woodwork forums and youtube are your friend. Most people who only do a little veneering don't have specialised presses so use either contact adhesive or paint both veneer and mdf with glue, leave it to dry, position and 'reactivate' glue with an iron. I have no experience with Bamboo however
Guest yamaha_man Posted June 9, 2014 Posted June 9, 2014 @@cheekyboy is handy at this, weather he is willing to tell you his trade secrets is another story.
Jone5y Posted June 9, 2014 Posted June 9, 2014 Veneering is not for beginners.It is a minefield. Yep, my first attempt was on an old coffee table that was restored from roadside cleanup. I got lucky. It worked out well. My pride and joy DIY speakers would not be my preferred first attempt.
Bigmattyevans Posted June 12, 2014 Author Posted June 12, 2014 Thanks for the replies. Seems like consensus is that veneering is particularly difficult. Struggling to find another option that is easy and will work though. Is using Laminate or vinyl easier? The options that I have considered other than veneering are: Painting - seems to be hard to get right/look professional Duratex - I am concerned bumpy white next to a high gloss white horn will look a bit dirty Thoughts? Ideas? I don't really want to be left with MDF colour. Thanks Matt Vinyl/faux leather - I have ordered some samples of this and it looks promising Having a plywood finish on top of the MDF.
Telecine Posted June 12, 2014 Posted June 12, 2014 @@Green Wagon is near you and has some experience. Send him a PM.
THOMO Posted June 12, 2014 Posted June 12, 2014 You could use 3mm MDF veneered board glued to your cabinets. You could do it in steps using a flush trimming router bit.If you used a neutral veneer like Tassie Oak or American Ash you could then round over the edges with a small bullnose and stain the cabinets with something like a walnut stain which would disguise the raw MDF edges quite well. The Monitor Audio speakers like the RS6 were made this way except with veneer rather than veneered board. You would want to use a glue that did not leave an obvious glue line however.Urea formaldahyde would be best.
EV Cali Posted June 12, 2014 Posted June 12, 2014 (edited) Hi 1. The best way would have been to use pre veneered boards .Ply is always made with an odd number of layers to have an even tension and to prevent warping but a thin veneer on MDF is unlikely to have an affect. 2. Again the best way would have been to use solid timber on one of the edges of each adjoining board so that they could have been routerd. 3. You will be able to buy pre glued veneer and edging that you can iron on and bamboo will be much cheaper than a hard wood veneer. Using contact adhesive ,as you would have to on plastic laminate (Formica) is extremely difficult. With the understanding that the boxes are already made in MDF ,I have seen joinery made of MDF with the edges rounded off with a router ,stained with wood stain darker than the MDF and then with some coats of clear sealer that have looked really good and it is only when you look closely that you realise it is MDF and this would be your easiest option. Just make sure you rub the edges back with very fine paper. I am a Carpenter and Joiner so if you need any more help or clarification just ask. Edited June 13, 2014 by EVcali 1
cmcook Posted June 13, 2014 Posted June 13, 2014 The first thing I veneered was my subwoofer (not counting the 20cm x 20cm square I did as a trial/practice piece. I used paper backed walnut veneer and contact adhesive - not the most professional technique but I'm happy with the way it came out, there are some pictures in the DIY "Currently Building" thread I think. Nothing has started peeling or shrinking a year later. I made the box up from MDF first, cut the veneer pieces out somewhat oversize, stuck it down, did a first trim with a sharp knife then used a flush trim bit in my router. Chris
Ando Posted June 13, 2014 Posted June 13, 2014 I dont think veneering is too difficult as long as you accept the results are fairly unlikely to be as good as more expensive commercially built speakers. It can be time consuming however. I would answer yes and yes to your first 2 questions. Contact glue although frowned on by purists has always worked ok for me. Sorry cant write a longer response now but PM me if want more info. Cheers Mike
Gee Emm Posted June 13, 2014 Posted June 13, 2014 The best way would have been to use pre veneered boards This is good advice for beginners
thoglette Posted June 13, 2014 Posted June 13, 2014 Thanks for the replies. Seems like consensus is that veneering is particularly difficult. Struggling to find another option that is easy and will work though. <snip> Thoughts? Ideas? I don't really want to be left with MDF colour. I veneered my current speakers - Ariels - which have large radii. I used pre-glued heat set veneer over a mix of MDF and ply. Worked pretty well - and I'm no veneering expert. Comments a) get the underlying wood perfect before applying veneer b) get the veneer well stuck EVERYWHERE before standing (or you'll get hollows) c) use sharp tools. Measure seven times, check thrice and cut once. Vacuum bagging with wood glue might be easier but Other options a) use pre-veneered timber. Means more complicated joints (mitre instead of butt) or corner caps b) use solid timber, even as a 4mm trim finish. Definitely mitre joints on the corners. c) get a car body shop to do a proper painted finish - starting with body filler (about the only way to deal with MDF) d) use solid timber and live with the end grain. You'll learn about dowelling panels! e) use a non wood veneer. Not my thing but ... f) use corian.
awty Posted June 13, 2014 Posted June 13, 2014 (edited) There is a place in Lawton that has a huge variety of veneered ply, not sure if there is Bamboo. Realativly cheap for around $80 a 2400x1200x3mm sheet. I veneered my speakers using a mahogany grain.....easy peasy. I used about 6 coats of danish oil Edited June 13, 2014 by awty 1
damohpi Posted June 13, 2014 Posted June 13, 2014 yeah, it's not all that hard if you take your time and don't rush it use a good quality paper backed veneer, iron on/pva application is somewhat forgiving of mistakes
Tweaky Posted June 13, 2014 Posted June 13, 2014 Putting veneer on isn't usually the place where it gets stuffed up. It's taking the edges off so they are flush with each other that gets problematic
awty Posted June 13, 2014 Posted June 13, 2014 I used a trimmer attachment for my Dremel and just took it slow and steady. Think veneered ply is a lot easier to use than just straight veener. I mark it out taking note of the run of the grain, cut it with a bit of overlap using a metal blade on a jig saw, mark where it needs to go, use contact to glue and then trim it with the Dremel. You do get to see the edge of the 3mm ply, but its hardly noticeable. I used a dark stain on a cotton wool bud and you cant see the ply at all. Also kept the ply edges to the sides. I glued on the side panels first, then the top, then the rear and face. Also helps if the length of the sides and the width of the top is less than 2400 in total to match the grain.
buzz lightyear Posted June 14, 2014 Posted June 14, 2014 Fine file and a sharp blade and patience also I used grease proof paper while using the iron worked brilliantly.
BradC Posted October 8, 2015 Posted October 8, 2015 Bringing up ash old thread... I am looking for advice on veneering some subwoofer size boxes (550x450x500) made of mdf. The options I am looking at are: pva/iron on paper backed veneer Contact adhesive of veneer on 1.5mm ply pva glue non-paper backed veneer (half the price for the veneer). What is the benefit of the paper backing? People in this thread have used these options. Have there been any issues a year later?
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