cmcook Posted March 7, 2014 Posted March 7, 2014 Just because I can I thought I'd have a go at printing a bass reflex type flare on my Printrbot. It was a bit fiddly to get the very exit of the flare to print very well as it needs some support material to hold it up - it was printed with the widest part downwards and built up from there. I used a 15mm radius, but a tighter radius would be less critical in the support. In an effort to get the support working better I printed it on a raft which means the lowest face is a bit rough. It might be better to print it the other way up but this would use a lot more filament to generate the support material it would need. With a bit of attention with some sandpaper this one would be good enough for a prototype. I would make some changes to the printing parameters if I had a need to print any more which would improve things. It was printed this way up: 4
TP1 Posted March 7, 2014 Posted March 7, 2014 Very impressive and innovative way of building the horn. What would be the limit of the dimensions the printer can handle?
cmcook Posted March 7, 2014 Author Posted March 7, 2014 Mine can only do 100x100x100mm but other printers can go larger. A unity horn might be a bit ambitious but waveguides should be possible if they will fit in the build envelope of the machine you want to use.
andersbr Posted March 7, 2014 Posted March 7, 2014 I made a unity/synergy horn on my printer last year. Allmost 1kg of ABS plastic went in to this part. The rest of the mouth is plywood since it is 80cm wide. My printer max is 44cm diameter / 50cm high -Anders 5
cmcook Posted March 7, 2014 Author Posted March 7, 2014 Part of a unity horn is quite clearly feasible though
TP1 Posted March 7, 2014 Posted March 7, 2014 Mine can only do 100x100x100mm but other printers can go larger. A unity horn might be a bit ambitious but waveguides should be possible if they will fit in the build envelope of the machine you want to use. Being ambitious is what creates cool new stuff. Well done.
TP1 Posted March 7, 2014 Posted March 7, 2014 I made a unity/synergy horn on my printer last year. Allmost 1kg of ABS plastic went in to this part. The rest of the mouth is plywood since it is 80cm wide. My printer max is 44cm diameter / 50cm high -Anders Nice!
Guest Posted March 25, 2014 Posted March 25, 2014 cmcook What would you compare the material to once it's printed? It is a hard plastic? Easy to sand etc? I've never seen this stuff in real life but am interested in the technology.
MikeSeddon Posted March 25, 2014 Posted March 25, 2014 I made a unity/synergy horn on my printer last year. Allmost 1kg of ABS plastic went in to this part. The rest of the mouth is plywood since it is 80cm wide. My printer max is 44cm diameter / 50cm high -Anders Which printer did you do that on?
andersbr Posted March 26, 2014 Posted March 26, 2014 Which printer did you do that on? Hi Mike. It is a "delta" style printer i made myself. I had aluminum sheet CNC'd for the various parts connecting 1 meter lengths of openbeam rails. in a triangular shape. The shape / type of hardware and vital measurements is configured in the firmware during the calibration process. So there is no need to follow a strict plan Sorry about the bad pictures attached .. If I made a new printer today, i would use 3d printed parts instead of sheet metal. The synergy horn prototype was just a short lived experiment since i am waiting for PSE-144 horns from Red Spade audio. By the way Mike, i have been following your synergy horn project since i it appeared on your homepage. That is a seriously well done project! -Anders 4
zog Posted March 26, 2014 Posted March 26, 2014 (edited) After making 4 BR flare extensions with a heat gun & PVC pipe last year with multiple attempts and variable results.. (see: http://pix.minirig.org.au/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=5229&g2_serialNumber=2 ) this approach appeals! Edited March 26, 2014 by zog
LogicprObe Posted March 26, 2014 Posted March 26, 2014 Yes...........but that's why I told you to use a ready made PVC flange!
MikeSeddon Posted March 26, 2014 Posted March 26, 2014 Hi Mike. It is a "delta" style printer i made myself. I had aluminum sheet CNC'd for the various parts connecting 1 meter lengths of openbeam rails. in a triangular shape. The shape / type of hardware and vital measurements is configured in the firmware during the calibration process. So there is no need to follow a strict plan Sorry about the bad pictures attached .. DSC_0107.JPGDSC_0101.JPG If I made a new printer today, i would use 3d printed parts instead of sheet metal. The synergy horn prototype was just a short lived experiment since i am waiting for PSE-144 horns from Red Spade audio. By the way Mike, i have been following your synergy horn project since i it appeared on your homepage. That is a seriously well done project! -Anders Your printer looks pretty awesome. My server got unplugged so my site is down for a few days. I am finally receiving a new soldering iron which I need to do the wiring on the horn. Almost there - it is a mission.
cmcook Posted March 28, 2014 Author Posted March 28, 2014 cmcook What would you compare the material to once it's printed? It is a hard plastic? Easy to sand etc? It's just plastic! The plastic I've been using is PLA but others print with ABS. Finished parts are hard and the PLA is fairly brittle. I've not done any sanding beyond a cursory go over - It clogs the sandpaper quite easily so is perhaps best done wet. There's a couple of close up photos of printed parts here: http://blog.protoneer.co.nz/up-plus-3d-printer-resolution-test/ I've been printing at 0.25mm layers heights - I will get around to trying smaller.
Malcolm Posted March 28, 2014 Posted March 28, 2014 Cool thread , a mate showed me his cad drawing of a 3D printer he's building .Ill get him to have a look at this thread . Cheers
almikel Posted April 2, 2014 Posted April 2, 2014 Very cool I had this idea to print 2d QRD diffuser panels that click together to make a larger panel What's the ballpark $ to get a printer like yours up and running? Cheers Mike
cmcook Posted April 2, 2014 Author Posted April 2, 2014 What's the ballpark $ to get a printer like yours up and running? Mine is nowhere near big enough, although I assume you are really asking andersbr.
andersbr Posted April 2, 2014 Posted April 2, 2014 Hi Mike. the cost for a large home made machine tend to be 500-1000$. Mine was around 1000$ (but i spent a few houndred on cnc cut aluminum parts.) If you are looking for a cost effective large printer, i have a good feeling about the "Wolfstock" design. http://wolfmanjm.github.io/wolfstock/ For this design you need to find someone with a 3d printer to make the custom parts. Or you can build a "Repstrap", a 3d printer hacked together with common parts, made with the sole purpose to print parts for the final 3d-printer:-) Regarding printing diffusors, check out this link for some info http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:189052 best regards, Anders.
andersbr Posted April 2, 2014 Posted April 2, 2014 Hi Cmcook. What 3d software did you use to design your bass port? I allways struggle a bit in sketchup with curved or other complex geometries, and so my stl files often end up full of errors. best regards, Anders
cmcook Posted April 2, 2014 Author Posted April 2, 2014 I used solidworks, which is proper 3d cad software.
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