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SEAS tweeter faceplates - who can machine a pair?


gat474
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I currently own a pair of ATC SCM 20 SL speakers with the early model Vifa D27-36 tweeters.

 

 

24640d1159549151-atc-passive-2-way-aa.jp

 

 

The Vifa tweeter has a 100 mm diameter faceplate with three mounting screws.

 

ATC has replaced the VIFA tweeter with a SEAS t25 001 tweeter in the currenet model but use their own 100 mm faceplate.   The tweeter can't be sourced with the 100 mm plate, the original factory diameter is 110 mm.  There is no change to the crossover between the two tweeters.

 

Here's the VIFA tweeter:

 

vifa_d27tg35_06.jpg

 

Here's the SEAS tweeter:

 

d_seas_excel_loudspeaker_tweeter_e0006_t

 

036.jpg

 

 

Here it is fitted to the later model ATC speaker:

 

179740-atc_scm20sl_flagship_bookshelf_sp

 

 

 

I have priced the ATC SEAS tweeters and the smaller faceplates from ATC and it prices out at around $500 which is a bit much.   There isn't enough meat in the speaker baffle to do any work there to fit a larger diameter tweeter and I don't really want to alter the cabinet anyway.

 

 

I can source the SEAS tweeter locally for a reasonable price but would have to have new faceplates made up with a 100 mm diameter and a three hole mounting arrangement.

 

Where could I get a tweeter faceplate made up out of a metal like alloy or steel?  It has to be black though.   Is it something a machine shop could do?

Edited by GAT474
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Definitely,steel is not a good choice for a faceplate.I blame the heatwave for your lapse and I can use that for an excuse to suggest that you may find it more economical to buy the SB Acoustics SB 26 tweeters from WES Components and using the faceplates from  these, as a means of re-vamping your ATC speakers.

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Seems like a good plan to get me going.  How can I tell if the four tweeter mounting holes (the inner ones for mounting the tweeter faceplate to the magnet structure) will line up?   I've looked at the tweeter data but it doesn't specify those measurements.

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i just realised that they have small guide to the faceplate, i think you will alter the bottom end response of the tweeter if you change the faceplate, and most likely will create a dip on xo point.

Edited by henry218
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u can always make a new box with same size of baffle as trial, the box is pretty standard mdf, i opened scm7 long time ago, and i was actually surprised that the magnet of the mids almost at the end of the back panels :)

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Seems like a good plan to get me going.  How can I tell if the four tweeter mounting holes (the inner ones for mounting the tweeter faceplate to the magnet structure) will line up?   I've looked at the tweeter data but it doesn't specify those measurements.

 

See if you can do a 1:1 scale printing of both, lay them on top of each other and see if they line up.

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That 003 tweeter looks identical to the T25CF001... I wonder what the difference is?

Personally, I'd be taking the Seas faceplate to your local friendly laser cutter...

You might have to fill the original mounting holes, have the new holes laser cut at the same time as the faceplate, and then counterbore them to suit the screws.

Cheers!

SS

Edited by Sub Sonic
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Is the dome v/c assembly attached to the faceplate?

ron

 

Hi Rondine,

 

The VC ass'y is separate and comes away cleanly from the faceplate. (Edit: on the Seas T25CF001.)

 

Regards,

 

SS

Edited by Sub Sonic
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  • 2 weeks later...

The other thing to note is the SEAS tweeters have a 6.2mm thick faceplate.

IIRC the Vifa uses a thinner 4mm faceplate.

So you will have to rebate the hole, or grind down your faceplate (ack!)

just put felt behind it :)

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I say stick with the D27 tweeter. A fine tweeter at a fair price.

 

I've heard T25CF001, nice tweeter but worth $500 upgrade, no.

 

(Also heard T25CF002, Esotar, Hiquphon, SS 9500/Revelator, Ring Radiator) 1,000% price difference (10x) for 200% (2x) improvement)

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I've always found the folks at SEAS pretty helpful. If you were to contact Bjorn Magne Idland (bidland@seas.no), who runs the R&D dept, I'm pretty sure he'd send you an engineering drawing of the faceplate you need.

 

Steve.

 

PS I have an engineer  who did a lot of the prototyping for Number 9, who is very good and very affordable!

Edited by Number 9
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  • 3 weeks later...

Making something like that on a lathe is not really a big job if it's aluminium or plastic.

A local engineering shop should be able to do that for a sixpack or two on a friday arvo.

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Making something like that on a lathe is not really a big job if it's aluminium or plastic.

A local engineering shop should be able to do that for a sixpack or two on a friday arvo.

It might be just a little more than that. Suitable material put in lathe, correct horn flare to be replicated, parted off, other side to be faced if necessary, face to be marked up, drilled and counterbored for fixings. Repeat for other side. If CNC is used, there is the programming and setting up to do. Again creating the correct flare would take some time.

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  • 5 years later...

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