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Goldmund Studietto arm wiring issue


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I have a problem with a Goldmund Studietto, the previous owner was less careful with the player and somehow broke the wiring from the arm to the electronics.
Does anyone have a schematic of this device or can anyone give me detailed photos of the wiring in the arm and the electronics?

thank you in advance.

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Yes  Pegasus  is correct--all the Goldmund Arm and TT Manuals and instruction PDF's are available on Vinyl Engine--I just had look at them. they are downloadable.

 

Good Luck,

 

Willco

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Vinylengine only contains a user manual, I really need detailed information about the wiring to and from the arm, because some wiring has been pulled off the solder tab, so I can no longer figure out where it is based on the color of the wire. was connected.

 

The detailled info like a schematics, is not available.

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I see that there are many similarities in the control of the arm between the studio and the studioette and I was able to trace a lot back to it based on the drawn diagram of VinylEngine.

In the meantime I have repaired the cabling and everything has been reconnected, now looking for a connector for the power supply of the arm......

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It's going to be a bit of a monologue with myself 🙂 but I do have another question.

Who can tell me what the weight of the balance-weight of the arm is, unfortunately the seller did not include it, so I will have it answered by someone else. friend of mine, but then I need to know what weight that should be.

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Good luck with the schematic. I had a Goldmund T3F off a friends Goldmund Reference. The arm was would power on but do nothing, I contracted Goldmund and Pierre Lurne for a schematic so I could diagnose/repair it. I had no response from either.

 

That arm was also sold on the Audiomeca TT Pierre Lurne designed it.

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Unfortunately Goldmund aren't helpful with any of their old vinyl equipment. The T5 did appear on the Lurne TT, but I doubt the T3 did apart from on the Goldmund Studio or Reference.

 

The counterweights are made from lead and come in various weights (err...CAME in various weights) by varying thickness (not the diameter). If you want dimensions I can measure some and let you know. I had a gent here make some for me years ago so you could do the same. BTW, machining lead isn't as easy as you might think because it is soft and milling bits can "grab" easily, but it can be done. Then once made, simply spray with some matt or satin black paint to make the appearance pretty. A hole is drilled in the side for a tapped thread suitable for a small grub screw to hold the counterweight from moving.

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Thank you for your response, I now have the player fully working again except for the weight.

I have experimentally determined that the weight is around 110 grams with a hole of 12 mm, 33 mm long and the diameter is around 24 mm.
I haven't thought about the possibility of lead yet, but that is indeed an option.

 

As for Goldmund's support, there has been deafening silence after sending my email to them....

I don't expect to hear anything from them.

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Good work Andre,

 

here are my measurements using a caliper gauge for an original T5 counterweight that comes supplied. If anything isn't clear in my quick and dirty drawing, just sing out with any questions 🙂

IMG20240327115952.thumb.jpg.58cd8489bf0cdb136cec10e4d42b7acd.jpgIMG20240327114957.thumb.jpg.de00ff683b943fd04013b83e300f1047.jpgIMG20240327115007.thumb.jpg.357cc1cbc418ecea16a4dbfe3011cf96.jpgIMG20240327115028.thumb.jpg.ab5b927bb663faa468d11ae0b8b6a576.jpgIMG20240327120038.thumb.jpg.e3676d07df0a209914c9710e06c12d8e.jpg

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I made a lead CW, I used an Aluminium ring and poured the lead in the AL comes off easy, You could also use hardwood and cut a hole the correct size.

 

Machining lead can be done by placing the CW in the freezer and using coolant to drill the holes.

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Thank you for taking the time to measure the counter weight and put it on a drawing, I can really do something with this and it is certainly appreciated.

The idea of using something made of aluminum or wood and then pouring lead in it is also a good idea.

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You are very welcome. My first attempt was similar making a mold and it worked fine, but I found a guy with a machine shop who made one for me by machining a cylinder of lead which I made and this looked even better than the original. It was for a T3B arm. As Warren said, you need to use a cutting liquid, like ethylene glycol (coolant) to avoid bits grabbing the lead when machining or drilling. 

 

Instead of using an Allen head bolt for tightening the counterweight, it's easier to use a grub screw which means you don't have to countersink the screw head.

 

The T5 on a Studietto is a really nice sounding setup with the right cartridge. I've heard both MCs and MMs sound great on it.

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