Jump to content

Connecting a powered Sub to Musical Fidelity M8Xi


Recommended Posts

Hi everyone, 

 

As you can tell, still bit of an audio noob here. I'm currently upgrading to my 'endgame' setup which may be entry level to some, but to me is quite up there. Anyways I digress.

 

I'm currently upgrading to a pair of JBL HDI3800 as my speakers and pairing it up with the Musical Fidelity M8Xi. 

 

I've heard criticism that the JBL 3800 have a lack of lower bass extension, so I figure I may as well add a subwoofer to this setup.

 

My main question is, since the M8Xi has such unique engineering with the dual mono block amps, etc. I've read in a what-hi-fi review that it's dangerous to simply connect any sort of powered device (powered sub, speakers, etc) since it may short circuit the sub. I'm just wondering will it be possible to plug in a powered sub to this set-up at all? 

 

Thanks for all the help!

 

ps: this is the review I mentioned https://www.whathifi.com/au/reviews/musical-fidelity-m8xi

Link to comment
Share on other sites


1 hour ago, Firaaero said:

 

I'm currently upgrading to a pair of JBL HDI3800 as my speakers and pairing it up with the Musical Fidelity M8Xi. 

 

I've heard criticism that the JBL 3800 have a lack of lower bass extension, so I figure I may as well add a subwoofer to this setup.

 

 

Just about any spkr can be improved, SQ-wise, by adding a sub - or better, a pair!  Not just your JBLs.  :)

 

Reading a review about the MF M8Xi, as each channel is bridged, I would suggest:

1.  you really need to ask MF whether subs can be connected to the terminals which the main spkrs connect to.

and

2.  you need to be careful that the JBL HD13800s don't drop to a low impedance.  (Bridged amps do not like low-impedance spkrs.)

 

Note:  I was unable to find out if the M8Xi has 'pre-out' sockets.  If it does ... then you would connect your powered sub(s) to these, rather than the spkr terminals.  This is the better connection method, anyway, IMO.

 

Andy

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, andyr said:

 

Just about any spkr can be improved, SQ-wise, by adding a sub - or better, a pair!  Not just your JBLs.  :)

 

Reading a review about the MF M8Xi, as each channel is bridged, I would suggest:

1.  you really need to ask MF whether subs can be connected to the terminals which the main spkrs connect to.

and

2.  you need to be careful that the JBL HD13800s don't drop to a low impedance.  (Bridged amps do not like low-impedance spkrs.)

 

Note:  I was unable to find out if the M8Xi has 'pre-out' sockets.  If it does ... then you would connect your powered sub(s) to these, rather than the spkr terminals.  This is the better connection method, anyway, IMO.

 

Andy

 

Thank you so much for your response, Andy!

 

This is what information I could find in regard to the Impedance levels of the JBL HDI3800 :

 

Sensitivity (SPL/1m/2.83V – 1kHz/Mean/IEC) 89.0dB / 89.0dB / 87.0dB
Impedance modulus: minimum& maximum (20Hz-20kHz) 4.4ohm @ 129Hz 36ohm @ 59Hz
Impedance phase: minimum& maximum (20Hz-20kHz) -60o@ 66Hz+55o @ 2.1kHz
Pair matching/Resp. error (200Hz-20kHz)

4.6dB/ ±8.4dB/±8.1dB

 

The dealership I did visit was running the JBL HDI3800 with the musical fidelity m8xi and I thought it sounded phenomenal, hence my choice in purchasing these two together.

 

Now I'm unfortunately no expect on this, still a budding 'audiophile' watching videos and such all day when I have the chance.

 

I'm actually going to pair these speaker with an SVS SB 3000, as it's primarily for music I chose a sealed sub for that tighter bass. I do plan to add a second one in the future, but I havent found too much helpful information on setting up dual subwoofers. I do know it is possible and seen some videos on it, but it seems like quite the challenge setting up their crossovers and such.

 

But if possibly with my set-up my end goal is to eventually get a second sub, but right now dropping about $20,000 AUD is my maximum budget.

 

Wondering if you have any thoughts. 

 

Thank you again!

Link to comment
Share on other sites


My thoughts are as follows, @Firaaero:

  1. Minimum impedance of the JBLs is 4.4 ohms.  Irrespective of what the shop was doing ... I reckon you need to get MF's answer re. whether the M8Xi is happy with this (given its bridged channels).
  2. Yes, sealed sub is the way to go; SVS SB 3000 should be terrific - as you say, for tightest bass.
  3. Setting up dual subs is no more complicated, in terms of XOs etc, than implementing just one.  In fact, it might be easier ... in the sense that you can place them symmetrically with your main spkrs.

Re. point #3 ... there are 2 ways of implementing subs:

  1. you run the mains full-range and merely use the subs to extend their bottom end.  (This is "augmenting the mains".)
  2. you implement a crossover between the mains and the sub(s) - so you roll off the mains at a frequency above their natural roll-off ... and roll on the subs at the same frequency.

#2 requires a pre-out feed to the XO - so may not be possible with an integrated amp.  However, that's the right way to do it, AFAIAC (REL users and integrated amp users may disagree!  :) ).

 

Just to give you an example of two ways of doing #2:

 

in my main system - which is 3-way active - line level feeds come from my miniDSP unit, for each 'channel', to:

  • a stereo amp feeding each 'main' spkr
  • and that channel's sub's plate amp.

   The XO between main spkr & 15" sub is generally 110Hz (I have 4 XO settings stored in the miniDSP unit).

 

*  in another system - with just one Rythmik sub positioned centrally between a pair of passive stand-mounts:

  • the feed from the preamp goes into the sub's low-level RCA inputs
  • the sub's plate amp has a LP filter which is used to feed the sub - plus a HP filter to feed the stand-mounts
  • so the HP feed from the sub's plate amp goes to the stereo amp driving the stand-mounts
  • XO frequ is set at 80Hz.

 

Andy

 

Edited by andyr
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 15/06/2022 at 2:52 PM, andyr said:

My thoughts are as follows, @Firaaero:

  1. Minimum impedance of the JBLs is 4.4 ohms.  Irrespective of what the shop was doing ... I reckon you need to get MF's answer re. whether the M8Xi is happy with this (given its bridged channels).
  2. Yes, sealed sub is the way to go; SVS SB 3000 should be terrific - as you say, for tightest bass.
  3. Setting up dual subs is no more complicated, in terms of XOs etc, than implementing just one.  In fact, it might be easier ... in the sense that you can place them symmetrically with your main spkrs.

Re. point #3 ... there are 2 ways of implementing subs:

  1. you run the mains full-range and merely use the subs to extend their bottom end.  (This is "augmenting the mains".)
  2. you implement a crossover between the mains and the sub(s) - so you roll off the mains at a frequency above their natural roll-off ... and roll on the subs at the same frequency.

#2 requires a pre-out feed to the XO - so may not be possible with an integrated amp.  However, that's the right way to do it, AFAIAC (REL users and integrated amp users may disagree!  :) ).

 

Just to give you an example of two ways of doing #2:

 

in my main system - which is 3-way active - line level feeds come from my miniDSP unit, for each 'channel', to:

  • a stereo amp feeding each 'main' spkr
  • and that channel's sub's plate amp.

   The XO between main spkr & 15" sub is generally 110Hz (I have 4 XO settings stored in the miniDSP unit).

 

*  in another system - with just one Rythmik sub positioned centrally between a pair of passive stand-mounts:

  • the feed from the preamp goes into the sub's low-level RCA inputs
  • the sub's plate amp has a LP filter which is used to feed the sub - plus a HP filter to feed the stand-mounts
  • so the HP feed from the sub's plate amp goes to the stereo amp driving the stand-mounts
  • XO frequ is set at 80Hz.

 

Andy

 

Thank you for the input!

 

After doing a bit more research, I think I will be going for a pair for SVS SB-2000 over a single SVS SB-3000.

 

My plan to connect them is as follows:

 

The M8Xi has a set of pre-outs on the back. 

 

Pre-outs of the M8Xi Integrated amplifier into the INPUTS of the SVS SB-2000 (A) 

 

From the SVS SB-2000(A) I will daisy chain using the output of SVS SB-2000 (A) into the input of SVS SB-2000 (B)

 

Does that sound right from your experience? I've watched several videos and ready many articles. From what I gather this may be my only way to connect the subwoofers to the amplifier. 

 

I also believe that the SVS SB-2000 has an app to be able to control the LFE so I can set the XO at about 40hz as the JBL 3800 cuts off at about 37hz.

 

I also was thinking of trying 80Hz as the cut off to get more bass out of it, but I think I'll have to try those once I can get a hold of the actual system itself!

 

Thanks again, your input is greatly appreciated!

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Sorry, @Firaaero - I am away from home atm and do not have the resources to draw you a diagram, scan it and post it.

 

@Ittaku - perhaps you can illustrate how F should connect up his dual subs?

 

One important point is whether the SB2000s have an RCA output which is controlled by a HP filter on the sub.  If so, then - for each channel:

  • 'pre-out' goes to SB2000 input
  • set LP filter to 40Hz, if you want; I myself would set it to 60Hz, initially - to relieve your JBLs of more LF duties than you've planned.
  • set HP filter to match what you selected for the LP filter.
  • SB2000 output goes to M8Xi 'power in' - for each channel (so you are running your subs in stereo).

Andy

 

Edited by andyr
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 3800 is completely flat to 70Hz, and only 6dB down at about 37Hz.

 

image

 

You have to decide whether to try and use the JBLs as much as possible or offload the work to the subs as much as possible. I would do the latter, as the 12" subs in the sb2000 will perform very well still at 80Hz, and once you get into the roll off section of the JBLs the phase starts gradually deviating means it will get harder to predict if the subs are phase aligned with the main speakers at that point.

 

The SB2000 has line level in and filtering options with line level out. Only the pro models have the phone app to work with, but even the regular 2000s you can easily set them to very close to 70 or 80Hz, where they'll work well even some distance away from the main speakers and in corners for maximum augmentation. As the regular SB2000s have a 12dB crossover, it will basically be entirely out of phase at the cross over point, so unless you use the inbuilt crossover of the subs in-and-out to the main speakers, you'll have to run your mains out of phase with them.

 

The easiest way will be to use the preamp out of each channel into the line level in of the subs, and then the line level out of the sub into the power amp, and leave all the crossover duties to it. Note the limitation in the sb2000 (non-pro model) of "Fixed 80 Hz 12 dB/octave high pass filter on line level outputs"; that would mean you'd have to use them set the subs 80Hz in that setup, which as I said above is perfectly fine. It also means you won't need to mess with phase at all if they're not too far away from the main speakers, as the crossover should ensure the mains and subwoofer have their phase aligned at the crossover point. The only tricky part will be setting their volume, which is much harder than it sounds without measuring.

Edited by Ittaku
Link to comment
Share on other sites


@andyr, @Ittaku - great input!

 

@Ittaku - just clarifying, as I'm not familiar with any of the gear

On 19/06/2022 at 4:09 PM, Ittaku said:

The easiest way will be to use the preamp out of each channel into the line level in of the subs, and then the line level out of the sub into the power amp, and leave all the crossover duties to "it"

my bold and italics - by "it" you mean let the SVS do crossover duties? ie line level outputs from sub back to power amp would be high pass filtered?

@Firaaero - this would work well 👍

 

On 19/06/2022 at 4:09 PM, Ittaku said:

Note the limitation in the sb2000 (non-pro model) of "Fixed 80 Hz 12 dB/octave high pass filter on line level outputs"

@Ittaku - if F chose the "pro" model would that give more options for slope and crossover point for the line level output from the sub back to the power amp?

 

cheers

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

40 minutes ago, almikel said:

@andyr, @Ittaku - great input!

 

@Ittaku - just clarifying, as I'm not familiar with any of the gear

my bold and italics - by "it" you mean let the SVS do crossover duties? ie line level outputs from sub back to power amp would be high pass filtered?

@Firaaero - this would work well 👍

 

@Ittaku - if F chose the "pro" model would that give more options for slope and crossover point for the line level output from the sub back to the power amp?

As far as I can read, the pro model will give you more control over the frequency and slope, but will NOT give you a high pass filtered output to put back into the power amp. A quick peruse of the manual shows no mention of a high pass filter at all, which is odd to say the least. I'm assuming they found very few people used the subwoofer as a high pass filter and dropped the feature (note sound quality to the mains would be subtly affected by the presence of another component in the signal path.) Either they failed to mention that the output is high pass, or more likely it's not there at all.

Edited by Ittaku
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Emotiva subwoofers seem to have high pass filter options, but aren't available in Australia as far as I can see. Not many subs aimed at music seem to offer this feature.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the other option for the OP is to determine what the low F3 rolloff of his JBLs are...and given they're ported, assume around 24dB/octave (4th order) rolloff for the mains, and use the main speaker F3 as the low pass Xover point for the sub and use a 24dB/octave low pass on the sub, which most subs have.

 

cheers

Mike

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi everyone,


Thank you all for your replies! They've been quite helpful. 

 

Though unfortunately I've thrown a wrench in this system. I was speaking to my dealer, he said the SVS were a no-go with my system, that I go for some REL subs instead. Having gotten a pretty great deal as well as doing some research on the REL T/9X subs. They seem much more suited to my liking.

 

I've got a reply from REL in regard to connecting the subs to the M8Xi, though I'm not sure if he understood that it was an 'integrated monoblock' design system and may have thought it was simply a separate monoblock setup.

 

This was the reply I got;

"Hi there
 
You can connect up the Hi level but you cant connect the black ( ground) to speaker negative and so you need to find an alternative ground point. This can be as straight forward as a chassis screw or if this is not possible, use a ghost rca cable.
Connect to an unused input on the amp to the RELs LFE input.
 
Alternatively, if you have a second pre out, you can run low level to the RELs
I hope this may help
speak soon"

 

That all seems to make sense, but would that still be applicable to my system? What do you guys think? On the manual of the Musical Fidelity M8xi this is the warning:

This unit features a BRIDGED speaker output and should NOT be grounded on either speaker output terminal as both terminals are effectively “hot”, i.e. carrying high current signals. Please check if using any active “sub”, electrostatic, or other non-standard speaker types or configurations (that could be potentially grounded) with the M8xi. Take special care when bi-amping that the speaker high and low frequency elements within speaker are completely isolated before switching on power. Consult speaker manual or manufacturer, if there is any doubt.
 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nonsense, you can just as easily use Svs subs with the line preout, and no risk to your amp with rel grounding issues. The rel isn't giving you a high pass output either. Dare I say it, rels make dealers more money.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Volunteer
38 minutes ago, Firaaero said:

I was speaking to my dealer, he said the SVS were a no-go with my system,

This doesn’t seem right. Did he give an explanation for this statement as it doesn’t seem to make much sense to me?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

@Ittaku @sir sanders zingmoreI thought as much, unfortunately I wasn't the main contact in this. My father had just been relaying the information as he and the dealer are close friends. After looking into the REL subs, I do think I much prefer those over the SVS. I also managed to get a much cheaper price (probably due to RELs making dealers more money) I got them cheaper than the SVS SB-3000s. 

 

From what I remember him saying, it was some sort of connectivity problem? I think he suggested the REL's as they usually are paired with monoblock systems. 


I'm going to be having a chat with him soon, as I've finalised purchasing the system. I have auditioned the main speakers as well as the amplifier and am impressed. Unfortunately work's keen so crazy I never had the chance to audition them, but wanted to make the decision before the EOFY. Needless to say I think we got a great deal for the system. Everything I purchased had at least 15-20% off the RRP comparing it to other dealers. 

 

With the REL system, could I easily plug the LFE of Sub (Right) into pre-out RED and LFE of Sub (LEFT) into pre-out WHITE? Without plugging in the hi level? Which I believe @Ittaku suggested, but when I was going with the SVS SB 2000s.

 

Or do you think using the high level input of the sub, just putting some electrical tape on the black ground wire, then hooking up the RCA of the pre-out into the LFEs?

 

I appreciate all the help, I've been seeing so much information on connecting the subs to a monoblock system as separates, but not as the Musical Fidelity M8Xi which is an integrated system.

 

Thanks again.

Edited by Firaaero
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a question.

2 hours ago, Firaaero said:

After looking into the REL subs, I do think I much prefer those over the SVS.

Why? Better reviews? I'd say it's just better marketing. If you got it cheaper then so be it, it's hard to complain about that, provided you got a sub of equivalent capability.

 

2 hours ago, Firaaero said:

With the REL system, could I easily plug the LFE of Sub (Right) into pre-out RED and LFE of Sub (LEFT) into pre-out WHITE? Without plugging in the hi level? Which I believe @Ittaku suggested, but when I was going with the SVS SB 2000s.

 

Or do you think using the high level input of the sub, just putting some electrical tape on the black ground wire, then hooking up the RCA of the pre-out into the LFEs?

 

Now that you've gone down the Rel path, you'll probably find the Rel faithful will insist the high level inputs are the way to go, but I'll still try to put you on the correct path - use the line level inputs from the LFE on the pre-out. If you have one subwoofer, and your preamp has two outputs, put both outputs into the one sub.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

spacer.png

50 minutes ago, Ittaku said:

Just a question.

Why? Better reviews? I'd say it's just better marketing. If you got it cheaper then so be it, it's hard to complain about that, provided you got a sub of equivalent capability.

 

 

Now that you've gone down the Rel path, you'll probably find the Rel faithful will insist the high level inputs are the way to go, but I'll still try to put you on the correct path - use the line level inputs from the LFE on the pre-out. If you have one subwoofer, and your preamp has two outputs, put both outputs into the one sub.

Sadly, ultimately my decision between the SVS SB-3000 Pro vs the REL T/9X was based on reviews. ( I know I was originally getting the SB-2000, but i got a good offer for the 3000) Which then came to the recommendation of the REL T/9X. After watching a dozen or so reviews, it seemed like the sub for me, most people seemed to enjoy it much more in a musical environment as opposed to a theatre environment. Not to say that it wouldn't be great for theatre use too! 

 

From the reviews, both the SVS and the REL subs seemed pretty toe to toe for me as they both seem to fit what I'm looking for in a sub, especially since I could get one or the other for essentially the same price, give or take $100-200. 

 

The Musical Fidelity M8Xi seems to have a pair of PRE-OUTS. I purchased a pair of the REL T/9X. If I went to plug them into the output, from what you said, I'd plug the LFE of SUB (left) into the WHITE PRE-OUT of the M8Xi and the LFE of SUB (right) into the RED PRE-OUT of the M8xi.

 

The High level inputs seem quite daunting, as there's a potential to short out the amplifier as it's got a unique design of being a integrated monoblock amp. I've watched REL videos on the explanation of how to connect the REL T/9X to a system with separate monoblock amps, they seem to just tape up the black (ground) cable as plugging it into the negative terminal will cause it to short out.

 

I'm also trying to contact Musical Fidelity and REL for information. But I also thought I'd reach out for information here too. I do like having multiple opinions on these things.


So I appreciate all the help, despite my novice knowledge just based on google/youtube.

Edited by Firaaero
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, the high level inputs can short out a bridge mono amp design so it's vital you don't connect the ground from the sub if you go high level.

 

I know you're already committed, but just for reference, I wouldn't consider them equivalent as the T/9 has a 10" woofer and 300W amplifier. The SB3000 Pro has a 13" woofer and 800W amplifier.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Firaaero said:

I'm also trying to contact Musical Fidelity and REL for information. But I also thought I'd reach out for information here too. I do like having multiple opinions on these things.


So I appreciate all the help, despite my novice knowledge just based on google/youtube.

 

Unfortunately, though, you decided to ignore the good advice you received here on SNA (I guess bcoz your father is good mates with the REL dealer  :( ?).

 

Your loss ... and your money (not your father's!  :( ).

 

It's not that it will be a baaad choice - simply that it won't be the optimal choice.  Mains really should be rolled off when subs are introduced - and you can't do this when you use a high-level input for subs.

 

Andy

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you haven’t picked up the kit yet I’m sure you’ll still have the option to take SVS instead of Rels

13” driver and 800w will be more capable than 10” driver and 300w

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 21/06/2022 at 1:14 PM, Firaaero said:

From the reviews, both the SVS and the REL subs seemed pretty toe to toe for me as they both seem to fit what I'm looking for in a sub, especially since I could get one or the other for essentially the same price, give or take $100-200. 

 

On 21/06/2022 at 1:20 PM, Ittaku said:

just for reference, I wouldn't consider them equivalent as the T/9 has a 10" woofer and 300W amplifier. The SB3000 Pro has a 13" woofer and 800W amplifier.

just looking at driver size using "back of the envelope" numbers based on 13" compared to 10"

Cone radiating area of a 13" driver is 856 cm^2

Cone radiating area of a 10" driver is 507 cm^2 - the 13" driver has 69% more area, or approx 1.7 times the cone area of a 10" driver.

 

Then look at power, the SVS has 800W vs the Rel at 300W, the SVS has significantly more than double the Rel.

 

Cone radiating area really needs to be combined with driver excursion to properly compare - called "volume of displacement" (Vd), which I couldn't find for either sub...but it's unlikely the Xmax (maximum excursion) of the 13" SVS driver is less than the 10" Rel driver.

 

I agree with @Ittaku - the SVS and Rel are not equivalent - the SVS is a level above the Rel, and well worth an additional $100-200.

 

Mike

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 21/06/2022 at 1:14 PM, Firaaero said:

ultimately my decision between the SVS SB-3000 Pro vs the REL T/9X was based on reviews. ( I know I was originally getting the SB-2000, but i got a good offer for the 3000) Which then came to the recommendation of the REL T/9X

I reckon the SVS SB-2000 would be better than the Rel T/9X, and the SVS SB-3000 Pro would blow the Rel T/9X out of the ballpark...but I've not listened to any of them :) ...

...my sub is DIY...

 

Keep in mind Hoffman's Iron Rule always applies for subs - you can only choose 2 out of 3:

  1. low bass
  2. efficiency (ie power required)
  3. small box

Both the SVS and Rel subs are in small boxes, so you'll need a bunch of power (sacrificing 2. efficiency) to get 1. low bass.

 

In the context of this thread, the SVS driver is larger and has more power, so is far more likely to able to hit your low frequency SPL targets than the Rel with a smaller driver and less power.

 

Mike

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 21/6/2022 at 9:02 AM, Firaaero said:

Hi everyone,


Thank you all for your replies! They've been quite helpful. 

 

Though unfortunately I've thrown a wrench in this system. I was speaking to my dealer, he said the SVS were a no-go with my system, that I go for some REL subs instead. Having gotten a pretty great deal as well as doing some research on the REL T/9X subs. They seem much more suited to my liking.

 

I've got a reply from REL in regard to connecting the subs to the M8Xi, though I'm not sure if he understood that it was an 'integrated monoblock' design system and may have thought it was simply a separate monoblock setup.

 

This was the reply I got;

"Hi there
 
You can connect up the Hi level but you cant connect the black ( ground) to speaker negative and so you need to find an alternative ground point. This can be as straight forward as a chassis screw or if this is not possible, use a ghost rca cable.
Connect to an unused input on the amp to the RELs LFE input.
 
Alternatively, if you have a second pre out, you can run low level to the RELs
I hope this may help
speak soon"

 

That all seems to make sense, but would that still be applicable to my system? What do you guys think? On the manual of the Musical Fidelity M8xi this is the warning:

This unit features a BRIDGED speaker output and should NOT be grounded on either speaker output terminal as both terminals are effectively “hot”, i.e. carrying high current signals. Please check if using any active “sub”, electrostatic, or other non-standard speaker types or configurations (that could be potentially grounded) with the M8xi. Take special care when bi-amping that the speaker high and low frequency elements within speaker are completely isolated before switching on power. Consult speaker manual or manufacturer, if there is any doubt.
 

 

 

Hello.

I have the M8xi and am planning on a REL S510 or maybe S812. REL gave me the exact same script about connecting the sub.

the issue is that the “negative” or black terminal on the back of the M8xi is not earth, but carries reverse voltage to that of the red terminal. 
If connecting a sub that is powered, the black input on the sub may be (probably is) shorted to electrical ground.

this won’t hurt the sub but will be very cosy for the M8xi (smoke, bang, dead, money…)

I haven’t investigated further but there are plenty of people that add a sub from this amp, so I just need to talk to my dealer (who sells both) to ensure I don’t make a mess of the connection.

Of interest, my mains are 702 S2 Signatures. With the M8xi they are so alive!!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites


 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.




×
×
  • Create New...
To Top