Crossover Assembly Baby Steps

[Alfonso]

Hello,

 

I'm completely new to DIY speakers and particularly crossovers,  so please bear with me.

 

I'm using a published crossover for the drive units I'm using so it should work.

 

How would you physically lay out the components of the crossover for maximum wiring efficiency. A sketch would be really helpful.

 

The crossover circuit diagram is attached.

 

Thanks for any suggestions!

[cheekyboy]

Hi Alfonso,

 

When you set the crossover out, just make sure you don't have the two coils too close to each other, or make their orientation so that they're not in the same plane. This is to avoid any possible crosstalk between the coils.

 

Cheers,

 

Keith

[Alfonso]

Thanks cheekyboy,

 

Yep, I understand that and I'll do it.

 

Would it be okay to lay out the components physically exactly the same as the circuit diagram?

[cheekyboy]

Hi Alfonso, it really isn't going to be a problem, as long as you're mindful of the proximity and or orientation of the coils.

 

Cheers,

 

Keith

[Alfonso]

Thanks again!

[Paul Spencer]

Your first step is to work out the maximum size of the board - often the width would be based on getting in through the woofer cut out in the front baffle. If necessary, if space limited, you can separate the two networks.

 

The second step is to lay the part out on the board with inductors as far away from each other as possible. Lay out the larger inductor flat. If using an MDF board, you'll want to strap down the larger components with cable ties, so you need to lay them all out and drill through.

 

Next up you need to convert your schematic to a crossover layout. Best to sketch it out, using the schematic to show you all the wiring connections, but not where parts go. You will find that there are layouts that work better than others, mainly due to wiring runs. You can, for example, place inductors so that you can connect their ends and use them as wiring rather than attach lead out wires.

 

Decide on terminal strips vs terminal blocks. I tend to use the latter, so that the input wires and wires to all the drivers are clearly marked, and you can easily remove the crossover.

 

You often end up with short cuts. For example, you will often find that one point of connection to say the negative input will end up with on of the wires to a component becoming an intersection point. You find a central location with other components connecting to that point, rather than having individual wires all going back to the terminal block.

 

Figure out all the connections first, use a large sheet of paper, before you physically start mounting things.

 

I prefer to both glue and strap down all caps and inductors, making sure nothing could rattle.

[Alfonso]

Hello Paul,

 

Sorry I didn't reply sooner.

 

Thanks for your input  -- I'll do it your way.