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Duntech Princess Restoration


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So a few people asked for a thread, so here goes.

I’ve been chasing a pair of these for a while and they came up so jumped in the deep end. 
The speakers are in need of a fair bit of work. One has sun fade on one side so I need to sand them all back and remove the lacquer. (Sand or lacquer stripper?) 
Some of the drivers are so-so so gonna have to go through all the spares I have and put together the A-team. 
@Grizzly has sourced some new brass plates for the back and is having them screened.

@Bill125812 has supplied some Canare to re-wire the internals. I’m gonna re-wire the binding posts to the crossovers at least as this was modded by the previous owner.
New binding posts still undecided what to buy. Possibly copper/brass WBT? 
@Sub Sonic gave me many Duntech goodies and I am eternally grateful. Without his help this wouldn’t be possible. 
@tubularbells has offered to help with the wiring and re-solder of the crossovers as I’m not to be trusted with a soldering iron. 😂😂😂

It might be a slow process. Any comments or ideas are welcome at this point. 
All of the scan-speak 13m will be reconed with original, impossible to find re-cone kits. 
I have a few pairs of Dynaudio D-28 tweeters to select from. 
Currently there is 6 X Dynaudio 24w75 to choose from. 2 need a recone I think. 

Grills the be done by Aranmar Acoustics thanks to John. 

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Used one of the panels that covers the crossovers as a test sand patch. 
I used 100 grit then 150 as that’s what was available. 
I think to be cautious I will sand most of them with 120 or 150 and go slow and finish with 200. 
Then wash them down and see what they look like. 
I’d like a redish finish like the rosewood so will have to find an appropriate stain. Ideas anyone? 
 

Then do I polyurethane them or gloss paint them? Not sure as yet. 

These are the inspiration 

 

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1 minute ago, gat474 said:

I’ve got one of those Makita orbital sanders, terrific sander. I won’t be doing any speakers though😳.


They're definitely the most hard core tools I’ve ever owned. 😳

I’m used to Bunnings cheapest until I bought a DeWalt drill last year. 

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I had a collection of sanders over the years and after not  long they’ll rip the paper or just not hang onto the paper any more. The Makita is the only one so far not to let me down. 

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Hey @Jakeyb77_Redux, love the pics, will be following 🙂

Can I make a suggestion? With the 13M drivers, I’d not recone them until there is a need to - that way you will stretch out your spares for longer. Definitely keep a couple of spares ready to drop in if necessary, but I’d not redo a working driver.

 

Having said that, I’m not sure how many already need reconing 😄

 

SS

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Its gonna be a bit of an undertaking but they WILL come up gorgeous. Like restoring a classic car take your time and try and enjoy the process.

 

Like I said im always happy to help with any electrical parts that need doing. 👍

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16 minutes ago, Sub Sonic said:

Hey @Jakeyb77_Redux, love the pics, will be following 🙂

Can I make a suggestion? With the 13M drivers, I’d not recone them until there is a need to - that way you will stretch out your spares for longer. Definitely keep a couple of spares ready to drop in if necessary, but I’d not redo a working driver.

 

Having said that, I’m not sure how many already need reconing 😄

 

SS


Very true. 
I already had to implement the new spare full working driver as one was blown. It passed a continuity test but won’t play at all. 🤷‍♂️
I’m gonna sweep test the others while they are out individually. Hopefully the other 3 are fine for now. 

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I’m having a bit of trouble locating a stain that’s not fire engine red, not orange and not brown. 
Anyone have a suggestion? 
I’ve shot John at Aranmar an email to see what he says. Other option is to thin out a nice red colour and spray them like we did my NS-1000. 
 

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Well that was enough work today for one day. 
One speaker fully re-wired and it was a real PITA haha. Lots of silicone and small holes. 
Big thanks to my 10 year old for his sort of skinny arms. (He’s part Samoan). 
And of course I used all the wire I’d measured in one speaker 🙈

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26 minutes ago, tubularbells said:

Looking good. How many meters of wire do you think you used in each speaker and is the new stuff about the same gauge? (looks like it is).


its about 8m of red and 8m of white. So 16m each speaker. The Canare is a little thinner. The original wiring I’ve read is VDH and I’m sure would have been fine. Not much happens to wire over the years.  Internally I crossed it over itself inside and cable tied it all up. I’ll Silicone all the very tight holes like original too. 
I might use a solid core very thin wire for the tweeter. Atilla has always said skin effect is real and to use a thin solid core for treble is better. 
 

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The screws Duntech used are pretty poor quality if original. Nearly all of them stripped a little getting them out. Maybe age. Anyway today’s mission is to take all the wire out of the remaining speaker. I can’t wire it until I get another 8m of each or so. 
Measure all the driver screws and order new ones. Also I need some nice wood screws for the crossover cover and the brass plates. 

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7 minutes ago, Jakeyb77_Redux said:


its about 8m of red and 8m of white. So 16m each speaker. The Canare is a little thinner. The original wiring I’ve read is VDH and I’m sure would have been fine. Not much happens to wire over the years.  Internally I crossed it over itself inside and cable tied it all up. I’ll Silicone all the very tight holes like original too. 
I might use a solid core very thin wire for the tweeter. Atilla has always said skin effect is real and to use a thin solid core for treble is better. 
 

 

 

With long internal runs like that it kinda makes you wonder why you'd bother spending mega bucks on a few meters of external cable but I guess it's the same (long) argument when talking about power cables too.

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Good luck with your project, I will watch with interest.

 

It is a bit late now, but I would have suggested rewiring with solid core Cat5. Polyethylene dialectic, inexpensive, and you can make up whatever gauge you like by paralleling  up. Heavy gauge will make a difference on the bass.

 

Are you going to upgrade any of the crossover components? I noticed there are already some new Mundorf caps and resistors.

 

Cheers David

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Just now, dcathro said:

Good luck with your project, I will watch with interest.

 

It is a bit late now, but I would have suggested rewiring with solid core Cat5. Polyethylene dialectic, inexpensive, and you can make up whatever gauge you like by paralleling  up. Heavy gauge will make a difference on the bass.

 

Are you going to upgrade any of the crossover components? I noticed there are already some new Mundorf caps and resistors.

 

Cheers David


Cheers David. 
The channel holes for the wire are extremely thin. It was pretty tough getting this lot through. I know Osborn uses the Cat5 and is probably a good idea. 

If the crossovers were original I would have left them that way. I have the parts to return them to original but will probably leave them this way. 
Common thought, and I agree, is to leave them as original as possible but as time goes on and drivers fail and are replaced I’m wondering how close to original any older Duntech can be these days. Most Dynaudio woofers have at least had their surrounds replaced etc. 

So the meticulous part matching that Dunlavy would have done is thrown out the window in those cases. The only thing that can be done is to replace with like parts. 
 

Just removed the wire from the other speaker. My arm looks like I went a few rounds with the cat 😂


 

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These probably would have had a single pack spray lacquer finish.Which is only compatible with other thinners based lacquers.Nothing else will adhere to it.The oak veneer was either stained or had stain added to the lacquer.Possibly both.

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13 minutes ago, THOMO said:

These probably would have had a single pack spray lacquer finish.Which is only compatible with other thinners based lacquers.Nothing else will adhere to it.The oak veneer was either stained or had stain added to the lacquer.Possibly both.

Yep it’s stained oak veneer. Then lacquered. I mentioned that in a post. May have been in the Duntech owner’s post. 

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I’d stick with veneered ply, probably cheaper and less likely to warp over time. Interesting project.

 The only big Duntechs I have heard we’re the Soveriegns. The owner really didn’t know what he had as even though they had been ‘restored’ the woofer surrounds had clearly failed, full of tears etc. 

 Even so once warmed up and on the back of a huge ME power amp they were impressive. Best of luck 

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