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Posted

I have a 50 inch Full HD 3 year old Samsung Plasma, the model could be older than that- had bought it off ebay.

The unit worked brilliantly until yesterday morning when it wouldn't fireup.

I did try it a few times power cycling it and then it eventually turned on.

Later that day it worked perfectly, turning on from standby as it usually does.

This morning the same thing, but difference is its still not on.

The red power light keeps blinking and I can hear a faint chime every second, like its trying to warm up the plasma or something.

Is the TV doomed ?

I don't really have budget to get a new one and would like to know whether this one could be repaired cheaply.

If I do need to get a new one, (Budget being $1000.00 Max) what should I be looking for, I would probably prefer an LCD/LED as I like vibrant colours.

I remember watching my father-in-laws LCD (not LED) and HD was breathtaking :)

Thanks All.

Posted

Hi,

It is likely that the cause of your problem is one or more failed capacitors in the power supply. As to the cost to repair, I can't be of much help with that.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I tend to agree with Skippy's diagnosis. However before getting too deeply into the most likley problem (IMO), it might be worth checking to ensure any fuses haven't blown first. A blown fuse is easier and cheaper to replace than a board recap. It should however be prudent to mention that a blown fuse may be indicative of an ongoing fault that will ultimately need to be resolved. If you're handy with a soldering iron and have some skills you may wish to tackle this yourself.

You will need to remove the back cover. Please, please make sure you've got everything (especially the power cable) disconnected from the TV BEFORE attempting to remove the back cover.

There will be lots of screws to remove. If it doesn't come off readily, you've missed one or two of them.

The power supply (PS) board is separate from the rest of the PCBs. It will have some chunky heatsinks on it. Check for any bulging or leaking electrolytic capacitors and any signs of any heat fatigued components.

If you identify any bulging or leaking capacitors, they are most likely to be the culprits. To replace them you will need to remove the PS board from the chassis. Make note of which connectors go where. You will need to reconnect them after reparing the board.

Capacitors can be replaced with parts of a higher voltage and temperature rating provided they can be accommodated on the board. For example, the faulty part may be a 1000uF / 16VW 85 deg.C type. Replacing it with a 1000uF / 35VW 105 deg C type is okay, but not the other way round. Also, beware, electrolytics are polarised capacitors and MUST be wired in the correct way round, otherwise they will fail (usually catastrophic). Be aware if the capacitor(s) are Low ESR (which are often brown sleeved) you must replace them with the same Low ESR types, otherwise premature failure may result.

A DIY repair could be an inexpensive fix provided you have a soldering iron and the necessary skills. Remember, too much heat or inexperience in desoldering / soldering could damage the board. If you're not, up to the task then, as ZB would say "take it to the man".

Cheers,

Alan R.

Edited by Monkeyboi
  • Like 4

Posted

Given that it fired up eventually, I'd guess the fuse hasn't blown............yet.

I'd go with the PSU caps, as Skip has suggested.

Some are easy to access and some are real B's.

Posted

Given that it fired up eventually, I'd guess the fuse hasn't blown............yet.

I'd go with the PSU caps, as Skip has suggested.

Some are easy to access and some are real B's.

I think he said it now doesn't fire up at all. Therefore could be a blown fuse, but IME it's most likely to be a faulty cap or two.

Cheers,

Alan R.

Posted
Unplug if from the wall and leave it overnight. Try again next day.
Well, this fixed mine. And you don't need a soldering iron. ;)

Posted

As Alan R has advised, if you are going to attempt this, make sure that the rear cover separates easily from the front, don't try to force it, there are a lot of screws, particularly some smaller head ones around or on the I/O connector section.

I had the digital tuner fail on my Sony Bravia last week, this is also a common problem on the older Sonys - one or both surface mount fuses on the digital tuner board goes open. Took me about 1/2 an hour total to fix, it was easier than I expected to get the unit disassembled, fuse replaced and back together again..

Take a photo or two before disconnecting anything once the back is off, helps when putting it back together.

Cheers

John

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

As Alan R has advised, if you are going to attempt this, make sure that the rear cover separates easily from the front, don't try to force it, there are a lot of screws, particularly some smaller head ones around or on the I/O connector section.

I had the digital tuner fail on my Sony Bravia last week, this is also a common problem on the older Sonys - one or both surface mount fuses on the digital tuner board goes open. Took me about 1/2 an hour total to fix, it was easier than I expected to get the unit disassembled, fuse replaced and back together again..

Take a photo or two before disconnecting anything once the back is off, helps when putting it back together.

Cheers

John

Thats what camera phones are good for :thumb:

Check for stupid things 1st like IEC plug not secure on the back of the unit!

Edited by pchan
Posted

All,

I got the faulty capacitors replaced last night, the hard bit was getting the back panel out.

Anyway there were 3 capacitors busted, got them all replaced with 25V ones as opposed to the 10 volts currently under the hood.

Thanks All for the valuable advise, am happy to help someone out with a similar problem, now that I know the solution :)

  • Like 3

Posted (edited)

Glad you got it working. :) An inexpensive repair and other than your time and effort was probably a lot cheaper than taking it to a repairer.

The added bonus is you did it yourself and on the way you probably gained a bit of knowledge on the way. :thumb: Gotta love that.

Cheers,

Alan R.

Edited by Monkeyboi
  • 2 months later...
Posted
Well, this fixed mine. And you don't need a soldering iron. ;)

 

 

Unplug if from the wall and leave it overnight. Try again next day.

 

and mine also, unplugged for a few hours and all good to go - hopefully doesn't re-occur!

Posted
and mine also, unplugged for a few hours and all good to go - hopefully doesn't re-occur!

 

well, not entirely successful - now have to de-power and re-power every time!  service man will sort.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

luckily still under in-home warranty - I suspect caps on the power board - was diagnosed (for an intermittent fault that takes time to exhibit) in less than a day so must have been obvious to the eye

 

apparently a new "part" on its way - been waiting a week and now will wait at least another - hope to have back before Easter

 

supposed it beats paying for it but…………….got a bike pump from the UK in 3 days for $9 postage so why should a part like this take weeks?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

so, manufacturer promises parts for fix up to be delivered inside 2 weeks - that time has come and gone :(

 

chances to have back before Easter evaporating

Posted

I replaced the caps on my Samsung last year. Cost me about $2 for caps and about 1/2 hour of time. There is heaps of info on the web. Just search Samsung TV faulty capacitors. It's a common problem (they used voltage under rated caps). The repair company is probably getting a whole power board shipped out. Jaycar stock the caps .

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