skippy124 Posted September 16, 2012 Author Posted September 16, 2012 Ah yes, John you were right- it was a 417 I worked on a while back. I must be getting all lysdexic in my old age as eye carnott rumembah numbizz! When you look at the great build quality of this series Sansui's it makes you wonder "What wuz they thinking wiv all that gloo everywhere!" Talk about spoiling the ship (although very slowly) for a harp'orth of tar! I know what you mean about eyes and old age!! I wonder if they thought back in the 70's when these were being made that they would still be around 35-40 years later, and stiil be going strong (apart from the dreaded glue......) wow John, that has come up a treat. Lovely work and thanks for sharing Skippy, I have an apology to make, I accidentally rated this topic with 4 stars instead of 5 due to fumbling fingers pressing the wrong spot on the IPod! Your rebuilds definitely rate the full 5 stars!!!!! Regards, SS Thanks Mark and SS, much appreciated Well, the major part of the rebuild is complete, and she is up and running!!! Pete dropped in the two bipolar caps that I needed to finish off the power supply board recap, and these were installed and the power supply board refitted to the chassis. I also checked the fuse resistors on the Tone control and Equaliser boards (four 82 ohm fuse resistors on each board), and these were either high in value or open circuit so all were replaced. Two of the tone control board fuse resistors Once the power supply board was refitted, the two main amp modules were also put back in and the amp connected via a dim bulb tester to the mains, and power applied. The amp behaved perfectly…. It came out of protection, and preliminary bias and offset checks were done. Bias was a little high on one channel (not surprising given that the amp modules had lots of handling during the restoration and it only takes a slight movement of the adjustment pot to make a big difference in the bias current. The offset was just about perfect. A check of all control showed the balance pot was a little noisy and this was attended to. All other controls were fine. The dim bulb tester was then dispensed with, and final bias and offset checks were made……. It was then time to put the amp through its paces with a test CD that Pete burnt for me with a range of different genres, just perfect for this as I know each track pretty well by now….. Some shots of the final result (pics aren’t particularly good….. black is hard to photograph, particularly indoors with flash. Before the internal covers were put pack on Internal covers fitted Next on the list of things to do before the restoration is completed is to order four new filter caps, and do a drawing of the base plate in order to get a new one manufactured. Once the filter caps are replaced, and the new bottom cover fitted, I may go through the tone control and equaliser boards and recap those as well. In any case I will continue to update this thread as further progress is made, and thanks again to all those who have posted in this thread. Cheers John 2
LogicprObe Posted September 16, 2012 Posted September 16, 2012 Thanks LP I use a mechanical process to remove the glue, a strip of FR4 circuit board about 10mm wide with the end filed to a chisel shape, and this is used to scrape the glue off carefully. Then a final clean with isopropyl alchohol. Most solvents that will soften the glue will also take off the silk sceeening. The dried out dark brown glue usually comes off relatively easily, but the light brown glue that has not yet "gone off" can be time consuming to remove. Cheers John I use this stuff all the time to remove heatsink compounds in computers. Best thing I've tried for it........saved me heaps of time over the years. Orange based.............and rarely causes side effects...........smells nice too!
skippy124 Posted September 18, 2012 Author Posted September 18, 2012 I don't think that will remove the glue, Iv'e tried orange oil electrical cleaner (concentrated orange oil), and it didn't work. Cheers John
skippy124 Posted November 8, 2012 Author Posted November 8, 2012 Time for a little update!! I have recently received a little something from Canada in the post These will be fitted shortly, along with the 10 turn Bias pots. And today, I received something that I had been waiting for for a while now, but it was worth the wait A brand new baseplate to replace the one that was missing when I acquired the amp. Very happy with the way it turned out!!!! Looking forward to getting these last items fitted and then having some serious listening time. Cheers John 1
pete_mac Posted November 8, 2012 Posted November 8, 2012 Oooooh... Now I'm excited!! That custom baseplate turned out brilliantly. I'm speechless! Time for a little update!! I have recently received a little something from Canada in the post These will be fitted shortly, along with the 10 turn Bias pots. And today, I received something that I had been waiting for for a while now, but it was worth the wait A brand new baseplate to replace the one that was missing when I acquired the amp. Very happy with the way it turned out!!!! Looking forward to getting these last items fitted and then having some serious listening time. Cheers John
The Fez Posted April 16, 2013 Posted April 16, 2013 How's this one going John? Did you get that base plate on and the large caps in? Those big filter caps look like thesame as went in the 1010....
slownlo Posted April 2, 2014 Posted April 2, 2014 I came across a much better physical specimen trolling on eBay at the right time, and managed to get it for a great price ($240)... It plays ok, but I know it can be better. Your post was an inspiration for me to get off my butt and start the work... Just thought I'd put in 2 cents about another minor issue with these amps that causes a lot of grief.. If you're experiencing intermittent L/R volume output, first check the power/pre coupling switch in the rear...it can cause intermittent issues with L/R channel output (making you think its something to do with the volume control, etc)..I've read of many a poor SOB arduously replacing, drilling into the sealed case to get deoxit in there, spending huge sums on used replacements, etc... when a quick spray of contact cleaner (or replacing the switch) would have solved the problem... 1
pete_mac Posted April 2, 2014 Posted April 2, 2014 I came across a much better physical specimen trolling on eBay at the right time, and managed to get it for a great price ($240)... It plays ok, but I know it can be better. Your post was an inspiration for me to get off my butt and start the work... Just thought I'd put in 2 cents about another minor issue with these amps that causes a lot of grief.. If you're experiencing intermittent L/R volume output, first check the power/pre coupling switch in the rear...it can cause intermittent issues with L/R channel output (making you think its something to do with the volume control, etc)..I've read of many a poor SOB arduously replacing, drilling into the sealed case to get deoxit in there, spending huge sums on used replacements, etc... when a quick spray of contact cleaner (or replacing the switch) would have solved the problem... Indeed... The connected/separated switch is the very first port of call for each and every Sansui that has this switch fitted. It's probably the vey first thing that skippy and I clean when working on these amps.
bwhitesox Posted April 2, 2014 Posted April 2, 2014 I came across a much better physical specimen trolling on eBay at the right time, and managed to get it for a great price ($240)... It plays ok, but I know it can be better. Your post was an inspiration for me to get off my butt and start the work... Just thought I'd put in 2 cents about another minor issue with these amps that causes a lot of grief.. If you're experiencing intermittent L/R volume output, first check the power/pre coupling switch in the rear...it can cause intermittent issues with L/R channel output (making you think its something to do with the volume control, etc)..I've read of many a poor SOB arduously replacing, drilling into the sealed case to get deoxit in there, spending huge sums on used replacements, etc... when a quick spray of contact cleaner (or replacing the switch) would have solved the problem... Nice informative first post Clinton, Welcome.
porotikos Posted December 25, 2016 Posted December 25, 2016 hi there. i am looking to buy a sansui amp that is really in bad shape inside. glue of death and bad caps everywhere. is there something i should be careful off. i mean, can this amp 100% be fixed with recap etc or is there something that cant be fixed, if broken, and i have to be aware of? the amp has the power cord cut, and in the photos i see no fuse on the back. your experience in sansui is appreciated. thank you
pete_mac Posted December 25, 2016 Posted December 25, 2016 4 hours ago, porotikos said: hi there. i am looking to buy a sansui amp that is really in bad shape inside. glue of death and bad caps everywhere. is there something i should be careful off. i mean, can this amp 100% be fixed with recap etc or is there something that cant be fixed, if broken, and i have to be aware of? the amp has the power cord cut, and in the photos i see no fuse on the back. your experience in sansui is appreciated. thank you Welcome! Which model of amp is it?
jammyringo Posted April 29, 2019 Posted April 29, 2019 Hi All, Skippy and Pete in particular who seem to be experts on this gear, I've come across a beautiful AU-717 and the matching SC-2110 tape deck. I'm using this thread, which is incredible, to help in my cleaning and tweaking. Just wondering if there is a local supplier of belts that can be recommended? I've found some in the US and EU, but nothing local yet. Here is a photo of the amp and deck. Cheers!
pete_mac Posted April 29, 2019 Posted April 29, 2019 2 hours ago, jammyringo said: Hi All, Skippy and Pete in particular who seem to be experts on this gear, I've come across a beautiful AU-717 and the matching SC-2110 tape deck. I'm using this thread, which is incredible, to help in my cleaning and tweaking. Just wondering if there is a local supplier of belts that can be recommended? I've found some in the US and EU, but nothing local yet. Here is a photo of the amp and deck. Cheers! Try Wagner / WES Components - they typically have an excellent assortment of belts!
RonnieG Posted April 29, 2019 Posted April 29, 2019 On 18/09/2012 at 11:19 AM, skippy124 said: I don't think that will remove the glue, Iv'e tried orange oil electrical cleaner (concentrated orange oil), and it didn't work. Cheers John Acetone is needed to do the job right.
jammyringo Posted May 5, 2019 Posted May 5, 2019 Hi all, I mentioned I picked up the above AU-717 a few weeks ago. Trying to get it going (it's in superb condition). Switching it on, the protect LED flashes for several seconds and then the relay triggers and the light goes steady. I hooked up a tuner & tape from known good sources and did not get anything from the speakers (not even an audio "scratch" sound if I jiggle the speaker wires). The "PRE-POWER AMP" switch is set to "Connected". I am a pretty basic level, but have done a bit of debugging electronics over the years. This is a unit that I don't want to muck around too much, but do want to try to solve this. I'm sure the solution is simple one. Basically, no signal at the speakers terminals. What I haven't been able to find yet is a "generic" step by step way to debug this amp, tracing back from the speaker output. I have found a few useful threads (some on this site) for sure, but the terminology is always a bit too far out. I have the user manual and can chip away at this. Interestingly, I have another "sencor" set of amp/tape/tuner where the amp has the same problem! I thought I could use that as a guinea pig to work out the debugging. Cheers, Jim
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