One set of speakers shared by 2 systems - help please

[Jventer]

My 2 channel and HT system shares the same front speakers. HT is a Yamaha. 2 channel is CD/preamp into 2 valve power amps.

My current solutions are:

• I unplug and plug the speakers into the system I want to use. This means moving the TV cabinet etc and it just not convenient.
  
• I use the Yamaha fronts pre out into my preamp. This is a lot easier, but require both systems to be on.
  

I want to change as I have children that uses the HT system and I don't want them to use the valve amps and I don't want them to play around with speaker cables.

Am thinking that I could use two sets of speaker cables and just change it at the speaker end. That should be easier. But then I am lazy and dont know if the constant unplugging and plugging will be good for the equipment

I have found a few possible solutions re Goldpoint, Beresford and Dodocus switches.

Opinions and advice please.

[richard260]

I had the same problem. i just added another pair of small speaker for the surround sound system that fitted in the cabinet .And i just leave the main speakers to my stereo duties only.If you have the space this is good option so long as your running a sub as you dont get the same bass out of book shelfs for movies

[Hifiplus]

What options do you have on the ht system, eg bypass, pre out, rec out?

[Jventer]

Yamaha RXV 2067, pre out, second and third zone. But not bypass.

(I have considered other options like a different AVR or another multichannel amp or selling monoblocks - but they appear to be all expensive options)

I run 5 channel (my fronts are Osborn Eclipse Towers which has an extra base driver)

The pre-outs work well. E.g. pre outs to preamp, which feeds mono blocks which feeds speakers. Two issues. I don't want any one but myself switch on the mono blocks and the mono blocks are equivalent to about 60 watt where the yamaha is about 130 watt.

(A quick solution is for them to just use 3 channels centre and rears and when dad is home we can go to 5 channel)

But I am the eternal optimist and someone else must have a solution.

Thanks

Edited August 26, 2012 by Jventer

[evil c]

I had the same problem but didn't feel comfortable putting in a switch & run the risk of degrading the sound .

Have been using the two sets of speaker cables & just swapping at the speaker for a few years & can't see any wear to the sockets,

I would recommend taping the leads to the speaker banana plugs so they can't short each other if you are careless enough to not plug in & switch on your amp

I speak from bitter experience!

[Jventer]

I had the same problem but didn't feel comfortable putting in a switch & run the risk of degrading the sound .

Have been using the two sets of speaker cables & just swapping at the speaker for a few years & can't see any wear to the sockets,

I would recommend taping the leads to the speaker banana plugs so they can't short each other if you are careless enough to not plug in & switch on your amp

I speak from bitter experience!

Thanks

[pete_mac]

I made up a DIY switching box with suitably heavy-duty, low contact resistance switches a while back. I'll be buggered if I could hear any degradation in the sound at the time, but that was in a previous setup. I might drag the switching box out of the garage and try it in my current system'

http://www.stereo.net.au/forums/index.php?/topic/29154-diy-amplifierspeaker-switching-box/

[Jventer]

Thanks pete_mac.

[Quark]

Just in case you're not aware, with your valve amps it's important to have the speakers connected when operating with any signal.

[DoggieHowser]

I ended up using a stereo preamp with a PROC (processor) or HT Bypass input.

Some amps come with trigger inputs so they are triggered to power on when the AVR is on and some preamps also can switch to HT bypass when the trigger signal is active.

[Hifiplus]

Either a speaker switch or you could buy some micro satellites for front channels on the Yamaha.

[Jventer]

Just in case you're not aware, with your valve amps it's important to have the speakers connected when operating with any signal.

Thanks, yes and it is one of my concerns.

Maybe there is a switch somewhere that could trigger a "dummy load" if something goes wrong.

[Jventer]

Has anyone got a Goldpoint, Beresford or Dodocus?

[betty boop]

2ch pre amp with ht bypass thats your answer... the key to fuss free integration of 2ch and ht systems

[Jventer]

I dont understand the preamp with HT bypass bit.

It makes sense if I use the power amps for music and HT. I want to use AVR only for HT and the power amps only for music.

I want a switch that selects the amp driving the same set of speakers.

I have now found that Russound makes a box. I have also found some commercial products by Coleman. Reviews are really scarce.

[DoggieHowser]

I used something like this ages ago

http://www.superfi.co.uk/p-4083-qed-ss21-2-way-parallel-speaker-switch.aspx

But you have to be careful to select only ONE set of inputs each time. It was designed to handle 2 speakers from one amp but it also worked in this mode.

Thing is there was some sound degradation vs going direct.

HT bypass is simple. If your speakers benefit from an external power amp, chances are it's going to be better than using the AVR's puny internal amp. So the HT bypass feature allows your stereo preamp to be "bypassed" and the AVR's front LR preout is connected to the power amps via the preamp running unity gain.

[Hifiplus]

I ended up replacing my valve mono blocks for solid state which I leave on permanently, it's a small sacrifice in sound quality for convenience.

[Jventer]

I have made progress on this. I will most likely buy a switch made by Dodocus. I have been corresponding with him and he has a few standard switches. He can also build custom switches. Check out his website: dodocus.de.

His solution is to build in resistors so that the valve amps always see a load.