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Xecs 2.0 listening room build and acoustic treatment journey

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My dream room:





We ended up extending it out to 6m for the room + cupboard 900mm deep and 4m wide with the narrowest point still 3m between the poles.


This is the space under the house:



Bearers in:




Floor in: brushbox:










the pole above is 6m long to give an idea on length of the room


projector will be mounted in bulk head which will also house the plumbing:


rough electrical plan, separate circuits for future powered speakers



Solid core door in:



projector space built,, space to fit a hush box if the projector is too loud


installation of ultratel 47kg/m3 50mm glass wool to aid in bass control. Also to reduce sound leakage (this is not a sound proofed room).




I might actually fill the bulk head if I find there is any reverb with it. but 100mm of glass wool is pretty substantial and 9m3 of class wool in the room.



dry wall in:





spotted gum desk and shelves.




hard to capture the desk but it's got some lovely silky patterns and I like that it;s left with some natural cracks etc.


Plasterer comes tomorrow!

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Just now, Galactic Soap said:

Great start mate. Looks to be coming along nicely. Nice work on striking a good balance re: a space for productivity and fidelity! :)

It's a home office ;)

haha I like to play  apex legends and listen to headphones some days but hoping my headphone habits reduce now that I can listen a bit later without shaking the whole neighborhood down .


Also, I'm really unsure if I should commit to painting it black or really dark grey as originally planned.

I have 14 white vicoustic panels and 2 black ones. the rear cupboard doors will be matte black and the aircon gloss black. Going to use black curtains to hide the absorbers at first reflection points and the window blockers *faced black glass wool). I will purchase more panels for the cloud and behind  the projector screen.


appreciate opinions and feedback!






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plastering going in, I'm thinking for colours, black for the cupboard doors, and grey for all the other walls and the ceiling.

now just to pick a shade of grey...

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Some good news today, I was able to get the mitzubishi aircon that operates at 19-21 db.




cicada noise is still audible but we still don't have cladding on 2 of the walls and the door hasn't been sealed yet.

I will take some measurements of the room on the weekend to show what untreated sweeps look like.




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2 hours ago, Xecuter said:

got a quote to paint the room today. 3.5k.. Thinking of getting a second quote? or doing it ourselves...



Jeepers, I’d be doing it myself. Seems a bit excessive.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Guys, I just paid for the painting, it's in a timeless gray but looks a lot darker at night with the lights down.


I have a lot of vicoustic panels i want to mount over the top of the window as well as do cound diffusion in the space between the lights. How do people mount vicoustic panels and the likes on the ceiling?

How can i create a removable panel with some sort of foam that fits the window that can hold the weight of 3-4panels side by side.


Floor polishing early next week then painter will come and finish the skirting boards.

electrician will be in late next week to do the lighting, aircon hopefully installed next week as well.


Still going to have the solid core door sound proofed.


Cupboards will be omitted for now because A. it will make the room a bit bigger and B. the cost of cupboard doors has gone up about $900 in the last few months.

The timber on the desk seems to have soaked up some of the lacquer, so will ask the builder to give this another coat






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  • 2 weeks later...

We are in! Spent the entire weekend moving stuff!




Room treatment to come:

Windows, Ideally I want something I can easily put in and out in case we want to access the window.

So I'm thinking some DIY MDF frames with a layer of foil to reflect heat on the back, with a layer of 50mm glass wool sandwiched then a thin piece of pine to back it. I can glue panels to the pine. I'll put some little rotating locks on the window frame to stop it falling forward. This is my current best idea.


Not sure how I should mount the panels for first reflections point and for the cloud.

I mounted the panels on the wall previously with french cleats and the whole room now needs repainting as the cleats pulled so hard on the paint it's bubbled. I don't think an air gap is required but I would like to minimize damage to the walls so gluing is a no go. I could maybe bolt a piece of timber to a baton vertically and the the french cleats off that. that way I only need to fix the 4-6 holes from screwing the timber into the baton.

Or I could glue them to a piece of timber and simply hangs the panels off two gyprock screws..

No idea how to mount a cloud. will have to research.


I will get a rug for in front of the speakers but it feels like a crime to cover up this floor.


first impressions of the room with barely anything in was that it doesn't sound terrible. I was nervous with the columns coming in at the centre and the bulk heads at the back that there would be some crazy wonkyness.


It's pretty good and the a77x sound small for the first time since I've owned them. Will see how hard this null is to treat as I move to larger speakers.


Please excuse my terrible measurements, it's been a few years since I've used REW + umik1 - criticism welcome!

1/24 smoothing green is L+ R on axis, red is L aiming directly at speaker, both at a listening distance of about 4 metres.



No treatment at reflection points, and no fiddling with position of speakers. I also think I need to fiddle with the a77x bass settings as I have turned the bass right down from when they were in the previous room which was a bit smaller but taller.


How sound proofed is the room considering I didn't 'soundproof' by compromising on room dimensions or float the ceiling or floor? When about 10 metres from the room you can hear basically nothing at all when it's at 100dbl. But the room above can hear it clear as day when I crank it.

I will switch the light fittings with something acoustic specific, and the gasket system they used on the door is not great, it's just a foam seal and i wanted something more professional.


I do have new speakers coming next month.

The a77x will be either retired or kept for a potential 5.1 system.


I think I can put a projector screen in front of the new speakers so will be saving for a projector and motorized acoustically transparent screen.

I did also order a nice new chair since I suspect this will be where I spend most of my time now! 16 week wait!


thanks to those who were following my build journey and gave me lots of pointers and ideas!!


Edited by Xecuter
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I really don't like the foam gaskets they installed so I bought the Raven door seals. Will have these installed next week and talk to my mate about the windows:





Edited by Xecuter
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  • 2 weeks later...

I really wasn't happy with the foam seals. So I installed this system from Raven, I bought from www.doorseal.com.au and they were not the cheapest price but shipped immediately and had good customer service.


You have to use a router to make a groove in the bottom the door then trim everything. Not super tricky but you need the right tools.

I tidied it up a bit better after the video but this is how it works, as the door closes a button on the hinge side causes the rubber to drop to the floor on springs, when the button is deactivated as the door opens the rubber retracts back into the door. Pretty neat!

video of the rubber dropping down:







door frame:

I replaced the shitty  foam on the frame as well with the raven seal:



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I'm extremely happy with the door. I can run the room at 100db and it's only about 35db with the door shut and my neighbours can barely hear anything when I stand at the fence line.


Only problem is the door knob is really close to the frame and it's hard to open with the added pressure of the seal.

So I was thinking of replacing the door knob with a latch.


An important feature is that it will be easily operable from the other side for my partner. She can't get in here and it's hard to tell if these latches have access from the other side.


Australian made  $1000 option:




Chinese 100usd option



miwa. japanese $600 latch








Edited by Alan Timmerman
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I'm going to leave the door lever for now as it's a lower priority.


I want to be able to hang these panels up without destroying the walls ASAP. Previously I used french cleats to mount them with double sided tape, the tape failed in summer and the panels fell and sometimes took a chunk of paint with it. So i then used dry wall screws to make sure they didn't come down.



This time there is two windows in the way. I want to still be able to access it on occasion so whatever goes up must come off easily.

So I think I will secure a solid curtain rod into the noggin above the window, this will be covered in a carpet like material, then I will add hooks made up that will sit on the rod.

The idea being I can make either two or 4 structural ply boards, glue my panels to that then hang the ply on the rod. Being able to remove a part of it to expose the window.

I may later get some faced acoustic glass wool and fix that to the back of the ply so that there is a layer of glass wool in front of the window.


This will be the solution used the window walls. The ceiling will have a similar solutions but some sort of rail that I can slide the panel onto and push them into the right position.

I could use the metal french cleat option for the right wall and the listening position wall


I only have 16 vicoustic wave wood panels. the window will require 4 edge to edge to cover the 2.4m wide window. I also want to buy more diffusion style panels as early measurements and listening of the room I don't mind how it is sounding at all and don't think I need more absorption other than at reflection points. so I was thinking of putting a 4x4 or 4x2 wall of diffusion panels on the rear wall behind the speakers, a 2x3 set of hybrid absorption/diffusion behind the listening position. absorption at reflection points and mixed in wave wood diffusion slightly behind the reflection points and a 4x4 diffusion panel cloud in the ceiling.





after seeing this mock up photo I might stick to a 4x8 pattern on the rear wall which means I need a total of 47 panels to do the room.


the lack of symmetry because of the window and aircon placement kinda irk me but I might end up putting curtains over the left and right walls to hide cables, lack of symmetry etc. but then I have to work out how to fit the bass traps and rack in if i put curtains in front of the air con?


So I will get some quotes to fabricate the strong rod solution which can be screwed down into the noggin as well as have the hooks fabricated and will get some of these panels mounted in the next week or two. The cloud will have to be the last part we do.


just need to decide as well if I should stick with the vicoustic panels or perhaps try sonitus or GIK?


anyone got any experience?




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My Metal fabricator recons a beam will be better and can make a carpet lined channel to do the mounting for above the window.


Going to mount some of the panels on the wall tomorrow but not sure which panels (absorption of diffusion) to go with on the window walls and for the cloud.

@DrSK once the atc land (they are due to arrive either late tomorrow or Saturday!) I can get some measurements of the room with the big woofers and see what modal issues arise.


Also seems the panels are a bit bigger than in my mock up so we can only fit 4 panels under the air con on the right.




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Speakers in..big thanks to @Ray Hfor being such a great person to deal with.


smitten with them.


I have got a ground loop issue on the Left speaker. I blame my old XLR cable and hope To get some new cables in next week to hopefully resolve it. Right speaker is fine.


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2 hours ago, genkifd said:

Awesome. I remember before i settled fir my current system retailers was trying to steer me away from the 150s due to my room size. 

Yeh I had a few retailers say the same. 

But I mean this room has been purpose built to handle the SPL.


I'm going to treat all reflection points and do quality treatment.


I think Retailers just assume most people put them in a poorly treated living room and hope for the best. I would of loved to make the room another metre wider and taller to let them breathe a bit more but that will have to wait until the next house we build.


The other factor was the 100s and 150s were going to cost me roughly the same. So it was hard to take the smaller speaker at the same cost.


I had great advice from Terry and Rom throughout my purchase. Unfortunately didn't end up buying through either of them but they definitely won me over as a future customer.

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chucked some panels up today. too scared to put them next to the speaker are they are only gorilla glued onto some ply then a french cleat to the wall




I could show the process but it's really simple. Should probably of made the gap between the panels a smidge wider.


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  • 2 weeks later...
On 09/08/2021 at 1:16 PM, genkifd said:

Nice, im waiting to get my Artnovion panels myself. 


so far using my phone mic my room is having some bass cancelling issues between 20 to 50hz.  it could be the phone mic issue.


Sorry I missed this reply! yes a umic is a must, phone mics are not calibrated and pretty inaccurate!

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4 hours ago, genkifd said:

is there a usb MIc that is recommended to plug into a phone?



yes people use the dayton with android and apple and can use audio tools from studio 6 app to basically get measurements 'as good' as REW and umic. but if you have a laptop I would just do the umic because the REW software is very powerful and can do more than these apps.

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