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I read those instructions like 5 times, and I can't figure out how they build it.

 

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Pay attention here as this is extremely difficult and painstakingly hard to do. Not.

 

So, I'm expecting when someone explains it to me, that I'll feel dumb.

 

 

I have use this woofer a few times (and the 10" and 12" version).... and also used them for subwoofers in small boxes and open baffles.    They don't take subwoofer power, and have modest movement (for a "subwoofer") .... but they are a lot of driver for the money (shorting ring in the motor, etc.)

 

My main dipole rig (Nao Note clone) uses 2x 10" SLS per side for ~60 to 120Hz.

 

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On 11/06/2021 at 11:51 PM, logarhythm said:

is it similar principal to a bucket bong?

Don't think it helps but iv made one of these

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1 hour ago, Wozza_Lee said:

Don't think it helps but iv made one of these

 

I read it again, and I'm still sure the guy must have had a few buckets before he wrote those instructions.

 

Anyone?

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On base of bucket, cut hole for woofer.
Fit lid onto bucket, then turn upside down.
Pour concrete through woofer hole onto inside surface of lid, and build up 3 inch deep foundation.
Let concrete set and install woofer.

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2 hours ago, marten said:

On base of bucket, cut hole for woofer.
Fit lid onto bucket, then turn upside down.
Pour concrete through woofer hole onto inside surface of lid, and build up 3 inch deep foundation.
Let concrete set and install woofer.

Thats what I get also. Those 20 l buckets are pretty stiff so maybe could work

to the above would only add dont get the concrete on the side walls.

Edited by frednork
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Posted (edited)

Ok these are the bits I don't get

 

1. Turn bucket upside down and use driver to determine the size mounting hole. Cut hole in bottom of bucket. Test the fit. Get another bucket if you screw it up.  All good

 

 

2. Using 2 inch screws, screw the feet onto the lid and pound the lid on the bucket making sure it is all the way on, I used a rubber mallet. The cement should anchor the screws and feet All good

3. The three inch deck screws are the anchors for the cement. I used 4, use as many as you like. Where do the deck screws go and what does he mean by them being "the anchors for the cement"?

 

4. Drill a small hole above the concrete level on the bucket for the wire to exit. Or install some binding posts if you want it "fancy". All good

5. Mix the concrete in another container....we don't want it on the inside walls, be neat here! Mix it thoroughly and not too runny! All good

6. With bucket upside down, carefully pour/scoop cement through the driver hole and fill it just above the projection on the bucket making sure it covers the anchor screws, about 2 to 3 inches deep. what is the "projection on the bucket". Where are the anchor screws?

 

7.Let it cure at least 3 days.  The moisture is the concrete has to come out before the bucket is sealed. All good

8.Solder wire to driver, pass through hole or connect to binding posts and silicone the driver in place, use screws if you want but the silicone will hold it. All good

 

So it's essentially an inverted plastic bucket with a 3 inch thick concrete base?

Edited by sir sanders zingmore
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Easier to make the bucket bong,have a couple of choofs and forget the sub 👍🤪

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Even though those buckets are quite stiff, I think the mounting in the bottom would be the weakest point.

 

I made something similar decades ago using plumbing pipe.

( you can cut it to the exact length for your internal volume)

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Pretty easy and straight forward.

 

I wounder how good it really is....

 

Tempting! :lol:

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8 minutes ago, muon* said:

Pretty easy and straight forward.

 

I wounder how good it really is....

 

Tempting! :lol:

 

It'll be OK until someone puts a drink on it or even sits on it!

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2 minutes ago, LogicprObe said:

 

It'll be OK until someone puts a drink on it or even sits on it!

Ooo.... 🤔

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14 minutes ago, muon* said:

Ooo.... 🤔

 

Just the right height for a footrest too!

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1 minute ago, LogicprObe said:

 

Just the right height for a footrest too!

OK..OK, you had me already with sitting on it!

 

No reason to go the 'hard' sell! :ph34r:

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Just now, muon* said:

OK..OK, you had me already with sitting on it!

 

No reason to go the 'hard' sell! :ph34r:

 

Just make one already!

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4 hours ago, sir sanders zingmore said:

3. The three inch deck screws are the anchors for the cement. I used 4, use as many as you like. Where do the deck screws go and what does he mean by them being "the anchors for the cement"?

 

 

6. With bucket upside down, carefully pour/scoop cement through the driver hole and fill it just above the projection on the bucket making sure it covers the anchor screws, about 2 to 3 inches deep. what is the "projection on the bucket". Where are the anchor screws?

 

 

 

So it's essentially an inverted plastic bucket with a 3 inch thick concrete base?

3. Just large screws through the lid that will anchor the concrete to the lid and bucket once set.

6. I think he just means how far the screws are projecting into the bucket - just cover the screws in other words.

 

It is exactly an inverted bucket with a concrete base :) 

 

If you wanted to get fancy you should use a much bigger bucket, put the 20L bucket inside it and fill the base and the walls (between the 2 buckets) with concrete.

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1 minute ago, niterida said:

It is exactly an inverted bucket with a concrete base :) 


 

wouldn’t the plastic resonate like crazy?

 

1 minute ago, niterida said:

If you wanted to get fancy you should use a much bigger bucket, put the 20L bucket inside it and fill the base and the walls (between the 2 buckets) with concrete.

 

That’s probably better. How would you access the leads though? I guess you’d have to drill holes through the concrete after it set

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9 minutes ago, sir sanders zingmore said:

That’s probably better. How would you access the leads though? I guess you’d have to drill holes through the concrete after it set

G'day SSZ...

 

Very interested in this design.

Maybe use some sort of small plastic tubing for the leads, before adding the concrete.

 

Ant.

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Make the one as written and if it resonates too much then get a bigger bucket to mount it in

 

Although i wonder if another bucket will cause more problems than it solves

Edited by frednork
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If you read the instructions right to the end, you can see exactly how they are cheating to get the output they want.  Basically it will sound awful unless you savagely restrict the frequency range being fed to it, plus it requires monstrous amounts of power because it's inefficient at those low frequency levels (not unexpected).  Pretty much any enclosure would work with those parameters, the bucket/concrete isn't exactly providing anything magical here.  I guess if you don't want to go to the trouble of making a proper enclosure this might work for you.

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Valid comment Rubber man.  There may be something in the symmetry of using a round tube that allows you to get away without the usual bracing.  Also a fairly small unit that probably won't scale well using bigger buckets (you'd need thicker walls).

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On 13/06/2021 at 11:39 PM, marten said:

Pour concrete through woofer hole onto inside surface of lid, and build up 3 inch deep foundation.

 

So, there is no concrete on the sidewalls of the bucket?

 

This doesn't seem like it would be strong enough.    The (plastic only) side walls of the bucket will flex from the SPL.

17 hours ago, niterida said:

If you wanted to get fancy you should use a much bigger bucket, put the 20L bucket inside it and fill the base and the walls (between the 2 buckets) with concrete.

 

Seems "essential" to me, rather than "fancy".

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5 hours ago, Old Man Rubber said:

If you read the instructions right to the end, you can see exactly how they are cheating to get the output they want.  Basically it will sound awful unless you savagely restrict the frequency range being fed to it, plus it requires monstrous amounts of power because it's inefficient at those low frequency levels (not unexpected).  Pretty much any enclosure would work with those parameters, the bucket/concrete isn't exactly providing anything magical here.  I guess if you don't want to go to the trouble of making a proper enclosure this might work for you.

 

This is true for any "small box".

 

It's a big call to say it's "not proper"..... but you are right.... it needs a fitler to transform the response (but almost every speaker does, in one way or another) ..... and it requires significant power vs excursion.

 

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29 minutes ago, frednork said:

These buckets are pretty strong. Dont know if you have ever tried to wreck one?

Nice.

 

but... The force is only in one direction .... and it's not "wrecking" the bucket, that's the issue.   It's vibration / sound transmission.

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I've made two and they work fine powered by an old Aragon 4004. It's a smallish room and I don't play too loud because of neighbours. I don't particularly notice them which is desirable, even though they go as low as I need for classical music.

 

ray

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3 hours ago, ratbagp said:

I've made two and they work fine

Hi Ray.

 

Any chance you could post a couple of pics...  please mate?

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Here are some photos of one of them.

 

I lived in the USA until July 2020 when we moved to a unit overlooking the sea in Urangan. I used open baffle woofers in the past but they would be too large for the bedroom I have to use in the unit. I bought the Peerless woofers and buckets before we left.

 

Not knowing what would be available in Oz, I bought two buckets at Home Depot with strong  lids. Not the regular orange buckets mentioned in the article that are more flimsy.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leaktite-5-gal-70mil-Food-Safe-Bucket-White-005GFSWH020/300197644

 

The buckets from the other major US home improvement store, Lowes, seemed to be more flimsy.

 

I checked out the buckets at Bunnings this morning and the Handy Pail seems to be as strong as the Home Depot model. I suspect the concrete strengthens the lid, but get as strong and tight fitting a lid as possible.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/handy-pail-20l-plastic-pail-with-lid_p4475875

 

I used Bastion Rapid Set  concrete where I added the powder to the bucket with a trowel and subsequently added the water which seemed to be easier than trying to pour wet concrete into the bucket.

 

You may notice that I placed the speaker terminals vertically instead of horizontally to match the flat side of the bucket. In the last photo you can see the four long screws I used to grip to the concrete.

 

The resulting speaker is not all that heavy or expensive other than the cost of the Peerless speakers.  From what I have read, it helps to have more than one subwoofer and I played around with the positioning to stop them sounding boomy. If I had a much larger room and the two subwoofers struggled, I would simply build additional units.

 

Because of health reasons, I am not able to carry very heavy objects, particularly up stairs, but I have no problem with these buckets.

 

I hope this helps.

 

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Edited by ratbagp
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6 hours ago, ratbagp said:

 

I hope this helps.

Indeed, thanks Ray.

Thanks for the Bunnings research and link too...  very helpful.

 

Cheers.

Ant.

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