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Garrard 401 Rotor Does not Spin


Spider27
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I recently got Garrard 401 and it was working okay but when I mounted it into new wooden plinth, it stops spinning.

 

I examined a bit and found that rotor disc is touching underneath hence not spinning. When I pull the rotor disc a bit then motor starts spin but stops again as soon as I put my hands off from lifting the rotor disc. 

 

Can anyone enlighten me on this and rectify this issue? My guess is that there must be a spring that keeps lifting silver rotor disc came off or rotor disc needs to be repositioned somehow?

 

Any help would be hugely appreciated. Thank you..

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8 minutes ago, Telecine said:

There is a grub screw that tightens up to the spindle on the rotor collar. I suspect that this is loose, allowing your rotor to slip down.

Thank you for your suggestion.  I found that there are many grub screws and are we referring bottom set that is closer to rotor disc?

I see that there are another set on the middle of motor spindle. 

IMG_6081.JPG

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Check them all and adjust the height as necessary. Start with the top one I think. It is a bit hard to tell what needs adjusting from that photo but the idler wheel should engage with the different diameter running areas on the rotor when you change the speed. If adjusting the top one doesn't solve your problem, try the bottom one that I think allows you to adjust the height of the spindle.

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It must be bottom set closer to the rotor disc. I just tried middle ones and top pulley came off. 

 

I found that it is not very difficult to access bottom set of grub screws. Do I need to take the whole motor off to access bottom set of grub screws?

Edited by Spider27
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12 minutes ago, Spider27 said:

It must be bottom set closer to the rotor disc. I just tried middle ones and top pulley came off. 

 

I found that it is not very difficult to access bottom set of grub screws. Do I need to take the whole motor off to access bottom set of grub screws?

Been a while since I did any of this. I don't recall having to remove the motor.

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Totally failed so far. The grub screws are very tight and worn out a bit. I tried to access them from the top and side but my existing screws either too thick or too short to have good fit and enough torque.  I will try to buy a long and narrow flat head screwdriver to give it a go.

If this also fails then I might have to take the motor out completely to access grub screws.  ?

 

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Just now, t_mike said:

See if you can replace the grub screws with allen key types.

That is a good idea. ?  I might replace them with allen key type.

 

First thing first....I need to take them out or loose them out to adjust somehow.... 

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29 minutes ago, rocky500 said:

I bought some a while back for a Garrard 401.

Here

https://www.ba-bolts.co.uk/bagrubs.html

 

It was the  6BA x 1/8" Allen Grubs. Ended buying 20 but gave the extra ones to someone.

They are not quite exact but was recommended on another forum and they worked well.

Thank you for the tip. I will definitely check them out.  Those original grub screws are just bad and I will replace them asap..

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I had to take the motor out completely and took me over an hour to figure out how to take the motor out and readjust the rotor disc height. Motor is now spinning.

 

However, I must have put strobescope/speed control wheel back incorrectly. It is working opposite. Turning the speed wheel positive make the speed slower.. ?     It should be easy fix and will look into it tomorrow. 

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  • 7 months later...
On 22/08/2020 at 9:18 PM, Spider27 said:

I had to take the motor out completely and took me over an hour to figure out how to take the motor out and readjust the rotor disc height. Motor is now spinning.

 

However, I must have put strobescope/speed control wheel back incorrectly. It is working opposite. Turning the speed wheel positive make the speed slower.. ?     It should be easy fix and will look into it tomorrow. 

 

I am having exactly the same problem with a 401. if I pull it the rotor up slightly it rotates but else it does not. Would you have any pics to show what you adjusted ?

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1 hour ago, arjn said:

 

I am having exactly the same problem with a 401. if I pull it the rotor up slightly it rotates but else it does not. Would you have any pics to show what you adjusted ?

You shouldn’t have to remove the whole motor to adjust it.

 

Just undo the grub screws (there are two sets) and find out what needs adjusting. Trial and error.

Edited by Gryffles
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10 hours ago, Gryffles said:

You shouldn’t have to remove the whole motor to adjust it.

 

Just undo the grub screws (there are two sets) and find out what needs adjusting. Trial and error.

'Thanks, it was tough to open those but there were grub screws below the collar which i could loosen and slightly it pull up ( 2 mm) and then tighten..and its rotating now !!
? Although by the time i read this had already opened the motor and taken it out and was worried about doing anything else.

 

Anyway learnt a bit around the anatomy of the turntable and also all the stuff it has down there !

 

I have a tricked out PTP lenco...thats so much easier !

Edited by arjn
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@arjn well done mate. Yeah I had a PTP Lenco too, very simple and clever system!

 

I had the same issue with my 401. Currently my motor, idler wheel/arm and spindle are with Ray Clark from the Classic TT Company in the UK  for a refurb.

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42 minutes ago, Gryffles said:

@arjn well done mate. Yeah I had a PTP Lenco too, very simple and clever system!

 

I had the same issue with my 401. Currently my motor, idler wheel/arm and spindle are with Ray Clark from the Classic TT Company in the UK  for a refurb.

Thanks Chief !

 

Incidentally the reason I went for a 401 was to have one TT to get an "Authentic Sound" without messing around too much with it.


Eg My lenco is on PTP with a Baltic ply plinth, Mirco's spindle...and the only original would be the motor/Idler/spindle and platter. In fact I had mircos titanium Idler and arm as well but that made it too analytic hence went back to original.

 

My intent around the 401 is to keep is as close to original..the plinth being the only deviation and thinking on the lines of a skeletal plinth !

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1 minute ago, arjn said:

Thanks Chief !

 

Incidentally the reason I went for a 401 was to have one TT to get an "Authentic Sound" without messing around too much with it.


Eg My lenco is on PTP with a Baltic ply plinth, Mirco's spindle...and the only original would be the motor/Idler/spindle and platter. In fact I had mircos titanium Idler and arm as well but that made it too analytic hence went back to original.

 

My intent around the 401 is to keep is as close to original..the plinth being the only deviation and thinking on the lines of a skeletal plinth !

Interesting, I would go for a skeletal plinth as well. One guy who does a lot of work on Garrards told me its crucial not to over tighten the plinth mounting bolts. And also to use a rubber washer between the nut and washer. He reckons just tight enough to hold it in place and nothing more. 

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Thanks. Found some interesting content here - https://theanalogdept.com/diy'ing_a_time_machine.htm

 

Basically a skeletal with a 36mm top ideally birch ply but any other ply/hardwood although not MDF.  Was speaking to another audiophile who did this and he too finally ended up with a skeletal plinth with 36mm top, steel pillars/feet and a simple O-ring for isolation instead of a squash ball !

 

Since I am still on getting it to work and far away from this, but have some direction to start thinking on

Edited by arjn
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15 hours ago, arjn said:

Thanks. Found some interesting content here - https://theanalogdept.com/diy'ing_a_time_machine.htm

 

Basically a skeletal with a 36mm top ideally birch ply but any other ply/hardwood although not MDF.  Was speaking to another audiophile who did this and he too finally ended up with a skeletal plinth with 36mm top, steel pillars/feet and a simple O-ring for isolation instead of a squash ball !

 

Since I am still on getting it to work and far away from this, but have some direction to start thinking on

I’m about to embark on the same thing, I have the resources to go solid or skeletal and are still undecided. Although I like the solid look more the skeletal gets high praise and makes more sense in my opinion- easier build as well 

@Gryffles PM me for a chat if your interested in looking at something together, I’ve moved my workshop to Ryde  

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Awesome..would love to see your plinth build and your perspective. Do try to keep the isolation of the top board to the pillars  flexible and see what works best !

There are lots of theories for and against O rings, Sorbothene, Squashballs, rubber isolation etc ! I suspect it will vary with the kind of wood and the weight/thickness.

Edited by arjn
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