Spider27 Posted January 11, 2020 Posted January 11, 2020 Does anyone have or used to have Ortofon AS-212 tonearm to verify what the issue with mine? I was very curious about Ortofon AS-212 tonearm hence recently got a used one supposedly in good nick and found that there is something not right about anti-skake part. When I increase/decrease anti-skate control knob, Section C moves closer or further from tonearm stem however Section A (magnet) does not move but stuck together with Section B (another magnet from tonearm stem side). My suspicion is that Section A magnet suppose to be glued to Section C so when Section C moves closer or farther, magnet also moves along. I have no idea about Section B magnet though if it is meant to be glued underneath tonearm that has spot to go in or it is meant to move freely. Section D is basically side view of Section B magnet. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you....
awty Posted January 11, 2020 Posted January 11, 2020 Yes 'b' and 'a' are fixed and magnets get closer when moving towards + and further away when moved towards -. Been a long while since I have worked on mine, but can remember that it comes apart pretty easily. I have replaced the end stub and rewired mine and completely pulled apart. The only issue I had was dropping one of the tiny bearings, fortunately they are steel and was able to find it with a magnet. 1
Spider27 Posted January 11, 2020 Author Posted January 11, 2020 2 minutes ago, awty said: Yes 'b' and 'a' are fixed and magnets get closer when moving towards + and further away when moved towards -. Been a long while since I have worked on mine, but can remember that it comes apart pretty easily. I have replaced the end stub and rewired mine and completely pulled apart. The only issue I had was dropping one of the tiny bearings, fortunately they are steel and was able to find it with a magnet. Thank you for sharing. Do you happen to remember how they are fixed? Are they fixed with glue? I guess that Section A goes under Section C (cover) and glued together so completely hidden and Section B glued to the slot near the tonearm stem?
awty Posted January 11, 2020 Posted January 11, 2020 No idea, think you will need to pull that section apart to repair. Isnt there a couple of grub screws underneath? Will see if I can find any disassemble photos.
awty Posted January 11, 2020 Posted January 11, 2020 From the looks of it you lossen the 2x grubscrews at the back and the shaft comes out of the main bearing housing and a couple of screws hold the plate down that holds the magnets. Cant find any dissemble photos of that part, but can see that I pulled mine apart to replace the stub and rewire, cant be too hard if I did it. Have a few pictures of removing the pivot bearings and stub, which gets a little complicated if you need. 1
Spider27 Posted January 11, 2020 Author Posted January 11, 2020 1 hour ago, awty said: From the looks of it you lossen the 2x grubscrews at the back and the shaft comes out of the main bearing housing and a couple of screws hold the plate down that holds the magnets. Cant find any dissemble photos of that part, but can see that I pulled mine apart to replace the stub and rewire, cant be too hard if I did it. Have a few pictures of removing the pivot bearings and stub, which gets a little complicated if you need. Thank you. I could not find 2 screws but only 1 on the shaft. I will try to look for another one to pull it out to check inside. I am a bit cautious on dissembling the tonearm because they are usually delicate and sophisticated (unless unipivot). I tried to find service manual or exploded view to figure out how to disassemble and reassemble but could not find any info. Original operational manual does not explain much at all either.
awty Posted January 11, 2020 Posted January 11, 2020 (edited) If you look at this picture, you will notice 2 grub screws on the back (ignore the red circle). Pretty sure you need to loosen them and the shaft comes out, cant remember how to get the rest apart, but I think its evident. Provided you are careful not to damage the wires and dont unscrew the pivot bearings it shouldn't damage anything important. Edited January 11, 2020 by awty 1
awty Posted January 11, 2020 Posted January 11, 2020 Oh and here is a thread of mine showing how to pull everything apart, except for the part you wish to get to.....sorry. https://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=13536.15 1
Guest Mr Thorens Posted January 11, 2020 Posted January 11, 2020 (edited) As luck would have it I just rewired mine today and replaced the arm bearing collar. Section C is meant to be movable it goes closer to the magnet attached to the pivot to increase the antiskate, and further away when you decrease it. Section B is meant to be fixed to the arm pivot and moves around with the arm. The magnetic pull of section A to section B creates the antiskate. At the rear of the mount pillar there are two screws. The top one loosens the pivot shaft and you can then lift the arm a little bit from its mount collar to move the magnet. The screw below it secures the DIN plug (if you have one). If you remove both screws and take out the arm pivot and the DIn plug carefully (the wires and quite fine) you won’t damage any bearings as it’s just the mount of pivot shaft assembly to the mount collar. This gives you full access to the magnets. Just be careful when reinserting the DIN plug afterwards so it is aligned and the grub screw can go into the indentation of the plug. BTW it is a really good tonearm. Exceeds all others I’ve had so far - SME 3009, Jelco 750D, Rega 303, Clearaudio satisfy. Has excellent detailing and tonally sounds just right. Of course benefits from a good tonearm cable as well. Edited January 11, 2020 by Mr Thorens
Spider27 Posted January 11, 2020 Author Posted January 11, 2020 35 minutes ago, Mr Thorens said: As luck would have it I just rewired mine today and replaced the arm bearing collar. Section C is meant to be movable it goes closer to the magnet attached to the pivot to increase the antiskate, and further away when you decrease it. Section B is meant to be fixed to the arm pivot and moves around with the arm. The magnetic pull of section A to section B creates the antiskate. At the rear of the mount pillar there are two screws. The top one loosens the pivot shaft and you can then lift the arm a little bit from its mount collar to move the magnet. The screw below it secures the DIN plug (if you have one). If you remove both screws and take out the arm pivot and the DIn plug carefully (the wires and quite fine) you won’t damage any bearings as it’s just the mount of pivot shaft assembly to the mount collar. This gives you full access to the magnets. Just be careful when reinserting the DIN plug afterwards so it is aligned and the grub screw can go into the indentation of the plug. BTW it is a really good tonearm. Exceeds all others I’ve had so far - SME 3009, Jelco 750D, Rega 303, Clearaudio satisfy. Has excellent detailing and tonally sounds just right. Of course benefits from a good tonearm cable as well. That is awesome. Thank you. My one does not have DIN but straight short wires like @awty 's that needs to be soldered to RCA female socket. I guess that I just need to unscrew one on pivot shaft to lift the tonearm completely. May I ask if Section A is fixed under the Section C as well as Section B to arm pivot by glue? I suspect that glue came off so those Section A & B came off from the place and attached together.
Spider27 Posted January 13, 2020 Author Posted January 13, 2020 (edited) Last night, I gave it a go and took those 2 pieces of magnets and found glue marks on top of each. The glue must been dried up and weaken. I put tiny bit of glue and put them back into slot and it seems working fine now and they do not come out of place. Thank you for your help, @awty @Mr Thorens Hope it helps for someone who may also have same issue with mine. Edited January 13, 2020 by Spider27 3
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