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Posted

I will be picking up this unit this evening. It appears the tonearm is not stock standard. Does anyone know what tonearm is on this LP12?

 

cheers

david

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  • Like 1

Posted (edited)

Going by the serial number looks like it was built between Feb 81 and May 82 - so should have the Nirvana upgrage ( springs bearing) bit not the Valhalla ( thats obvious as it has the red switch) the arm is the original Basik - the less expensive of the two Linn arms at the time 

 

This generation on Linn has a very musical and some what warm sound 

 

Nice pick up - from the picture the suspension looks to be set up OK as well.

 

Enjoy

Edited by Chill3
  • Like 2
Posted

That is certainly good news to me. The owner can’t recollect when he last serviced it. It probably needs a good lube and a new  belt. Should I attempt this or pass it to a Linn specialist?

 

thanks chill3 and iant 

Posted
16 minutes ago, davidSun said:

That is certainly good news to me. The owner can’t recollect when he last serviced it. It probably needs a good lube and a new  belt. Should I attempt this or pass it to a Linn specialist?

 

thanks chill3 and iant 

Mmm - a more controversial question than you might think - some believe you need an "Linn guru" others, my self included think its all 

logical if you do the research, take your time and are a bit handy.

 

 

  • Like 1

Posted (edited)

@davidSun

 

There will be some items need checking... is the plinth square as its probably pre corner braced...bearing cirkus or pre cirkus if not upgraded at some time in the past...belt...springs and grommets..arm bearings....cartridge... etc...

Unless you feel competent AND have knowledge of whats what or are willing to spend some time learning...( Peter Swain has an excellent tutorial via His Cymbiosis website...just google Cymbiosis audio and follow the prompts ) I'd let some one with knowledge give it the once over.....and cause your in Sydney you have access to one of the best at Audio Genesis  ...His name is Harry York and He's a Gentleman to boot...https://www.audiogenesis.com.au/about-us     

 

Good luck 
Tase.

Edited by Tasebass
  • Like 5
Posted

First upgrade you should consider for it in the future, is a Lingo power supply. A very noticeable improvement.

  • Like 1
Posted

Before people start bombarding you with upgrade suggestions I'd do exactly what @Tasebass has suggested. These things love having someone who knows exactly  what they're doing, go over them. Look underneath and see if your P clip is positioned correctly.

Don't know what that is? Either did I until a Linn Tech pointed  out that my newly purchased LP12 had it's P clip back to front.

 

It's just little things like that you may not know about that these guys just treat as everday things, just like a grease and oil change at your mechanics shop.

 

Let someone like that go over it for you and chat to them about it. They'll probably at some point mention upgrades or what is your budget, how much money do you want to throw at this?

 

I have suggestions for PSU's, I have suggestions for arms and carts but it's all white noise at this stage.

A Naim Napsa...could cost anywhere from $1200 or so used and upwards from that up.

A Lingo new is another $2500-$2700.

 

I'm betting those prices are more than you paid for your TT.

 

I'd take it to the experts and let them look it over and then later on you can fiddle.  

  • Like 3
Posted
7 minutes ago, Luc said:

A Naim Napsa...could cost anywhere from $1200 or so used and upwards from that up.

not mine.... need to move it along

  • Like 1

Posted
8 minutes ago, Honreekea said:

not mine.... need to move it along

It was a guess. The OP is a new owner asking for advice and he probably needs to learn a bit about his deck and all the many many ways you can set them up before he starts looking a things like this is what I'm saying.

  • Like 3
Posted
35 minutes ago, Luc said:

Look underneath and see if your P clip is positioned correctly.

Don't know what that is? Either did I until a Linn Tech pointed  out that my newly purchased LP12 had it's P clip back to front.

 

let someone like that go over it for you and chat to them about it. They'll probably at some point mention upgrades or what is your budget, how much money do you want to throw at this?

 

Yep!!...little aspects like the P clip can have the arm cable acting like a 4th spring if not set correctly....good luck on the bounce....:unsure:

 

Harry's the most unpushy Guy you will come across...but will allow to to watch... learn and ask questions regardless...

 

Tase.

  • Like 1
Posted
35 minutes ago, Honreekea said:

not mine.... need to move it along

Still the best way of driving the old AC motor IMO.....mines a keeper....( and I have a Radikal!!! )

 

Tase

  • Like 1
Posted
4 minutes ago, Tasebass said:

Harry's the most unpushy Guy you will come across...but will allow to to watch... learn and ask questions regardless...

 

Tase.

Also one of the most decent and no BS guys in the industry. I have dealt with him over the years and I have never been overserviced or more importantly overcharged. He also does great work. 

  • Like 1
Posted
6 hours ago, Chill3 said:

Mmm - a more controversial question than you might think - some believe you need an "Linn guru" others, my self included think its all 

logical if you do the research, take your time and are a bit handy.

 

 

This.

 

There is lots of info on the net on how to do a basic service and set-up. As the purchase is an older model the work is quite simple, if a bit fiddly.

  • Like 1

Posted
7 hours ago, Chill3 said:

Mmm - a more controversial question than you might think - some believe you need an "Linn guru" others, my self included think its all 

logical if you do the research, take your time and are a bit handy.

 

 

Guru's are not needed ,just someone who knows what they are doing by which I mean someone who has a goodly amount of experience of setting the LP12 up well. There is nothing magical about setting the LP12 up but someone with experience can help to get the best out of it

  • Like 1
Posted

It’s running well. Very musical. I am truly pleased. Not bad for a table that’s been in storage for several years. I am using an inexpensive cartridge, Ortofon F-15 until I figure out all of the adjustments. 

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  • Like 5
Posted (edited)

if its running well and sounding musical, enjoy this for quite some time before doing anything, the Ortofon f-15 cartridge is no slouch, you will need to spend $500+ to make a worthwhile long term improvement. 

Having owned a Linn for many years i feel they are the holy grail of TT  / and also overrated, i sold mine after 35+ years of ownership, enjoy yours

Edited by wen
  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, davidSun said:

It’s running well. Very musical. I am truly pleased. Not bad for a table that’s been in storage for several years. I am using an inexpensive cartridge, Ortofon F-15 until I figure out all of the adjustments. 

7579EEEB-D82F-43FD-BA44-80FB8DDAB183.jpeg

Great, enjoy     IMO these old Linns have a special musical sound 

Posted
18 hours ago, davidSun said:

It’s running well. Very musical. I am truly pleased. Not bad for a table that’s been in storage for several years. I am using an inexpensive cartridge, Ortofon F-15 until I figure out all of the adjustments. 

7579EEEB-D82F-43FD-BA44-80FB8DDAB183.jpeg

 

So did you end up cleaning and setting up the Linn yourself, or did you get somebody to do it for you?

 

A simple

Posted

I gave it a good clean, topped up the bearing well with oil, attached the cart (Denon DL-103) and setup the arm.
Arm moving parts were lubricated with WD-40.
In the coming weeks I am planning to replace the springs. I was thinking about Cirkus upgrade but I read somewhere the sonic character will be altered. It’s a costly upgrade, I will have see she how she performs over the next few weeks before deciding.

 

Posted
1 hour ago, davidSun said:

I gave it a good clean, topped up the bearing well with oil

 

Hopefully, with the same oil that was already in the bearing, David.  Otherwise, you should've removed the existing oil, cleaned out the bearing housing with lighter fluid and then filled it with the new oil.

 

BTW, the oil I use in my Cirkus bearing is ... all natural, green, organic ... macadamia nut oil!  :)

 

1 hour ago, davidSun said:

attached the cart (Denon DL-103) and setup the arm.

 

I presume you used a protractor, to set up the cart?  Or at the very least, a MoFi 'Geo-Disc'!

 

1 hour ago, davidSun said:

In the coming weeks I am planning to replace the springs. I was thinking about the Cirkus upgrade but I read somewhere the sonic character will be altered.

 

Everything which you change on an LP12, changes the sound.  Yes, there are "the faithful" - who say that the Cirkus bearing has a negative effect on the LP12's sound.  Then there are all the rest (like me  :) ) that say it is a significant improvement - lowering the noise floor and taking away the "bass tubbiness" the original LP12s had.

 

Likewise changing springs will change the sound:

  • firstly, new springs are slightly different to old springs, and
  • secondly, for the perfect setup, you need to select 3 identical springs from, say, a pack of 20!  :(

Which is why I have on order from Steve Tuckett some of his 'mag-lev' springs.  :lol:

 

Andy

 

Posted
9 hours ago, andyr said:

 

  • secondly, for the perfect setup, you need to select 3 identical springs from, say, a pack of 20!  :(

 

 

Andy

 

Interesting Andy...

Lengthy discussions with Peter Swain about Sondek set up and He recommenced a slightly stiffer spring for the back one close to the arm...

...as you say though from a pack of about 20...

 

Tase.    

Posted
1 hour ago, Tasebass said:

Interesting Andy...

Lengthy discussions with Peter Swain about Sondek set up and He recommenced a slightly stiffer spring for the back one close to the arm...

...as you say though from a pack of about 20...

 

Tase.    

 

That's smart thinking by Peter S, Tase - but this is the first time I've seen that comment in print.  :)  The weight distribution on a typical LP12 is such that the 'arm spring' takes more weight than the other two, due to the weight of the arm.  IOW you really need a light arm, to achieve equal weight distribution.  (Or a stiffer spring.)  I wonder if that is the real reason the Aro sounds so good on an LP12 - it is lighter than the Linn arms?

 

When I built v1 of my SkeletaLinn, I got the weight distribution wrong (the LHS spring was too close to the bearing) and had to get a stiffer spring made up for that position.  When I built v2, I was able to correct that so, taking the weight of the 2 arms into consideration, I now have equal weight distribution on the 3 springs.

 

But I am fascinated to see what the sonic difference will be when I install Steve Tuckett's mag-lev 'springs'!

 

Andy

 

Posted
18 hours ago, andyr said:

 

Hopefully, with the same oil that was already in the bearing, David.  Otherwise, you should've removed the existing oil, cleaned out the bearing housing with lighter fluid and then filled it with the new oil.

 

BTW, the oil I use in my Cirkus bearing is ... all natural, green, organic ... macadamia nut oil!  :)

 

 

I presume you used a protractor, to set up the cart?  Or at the very least, a MoFi 'Geo-Disc'!

 

 

Everything which you change on an LP12, changes the sound.  Yes, there are "the faithful" - who say that the Cirkus bearing has a negative effect on the LP12's sound.  Then there are all the rest (like me  :) ) that say it is a significant improvement - lowering the noise floor and taking away the "bass tubbiness" the original LP12s had.

 

Likewise changing springs will change the sound:

  • firstly, new springs are slightly different to old springs, and
  • secondly, for the perfect setup, you need to select 3 identical springs from, say, a pack of 20!  :(

Which is why I have on order from Steve Tuckett some of his 'mag-lev' springs.  :lol:

 

Andy

 

Andy, I used Wahl's Hair Clipper Oil. It is a very thin oil.  Great thing about the Linn LP12,is if I stuff up anything, there are plenty of spares available in the market and there a few Linn specialists in Sydney. I can't say the same about my Yamaha PF-800, where parts are hard to come by. 

Yes, I used a alignment protractor - the reflective ruler type. 

It's sounding so good I may put off the upgrades till much later, maybe next year. The 'bounce' is not perfect as it is a quick  single bounce. A good bounce, as I have observed in many chatrooms, is supposed to be multiple decaying bounces before the arm-board rises to top of the deck. I suspect what I am listening to is the subplatter/platter/bearing combination and not much benefit from the trampoline at the moment.

 

 

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