Paul Spencer Posted February 2, 2011 Author Share Posted February 2, 2011 I considered them for a long time, a bit put off by the looks. I saw them in your speakers and they struck me as looking quite good when used with techflex. Then I was just put off by the price ($15 each is over-priced IMO), until I found them cheap. I got 8 for the price of two. The next step up is 8 core and they cost about $40 each! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fetischizm Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 yeah they are excellent for DC power umbilicals too (yes the speakon as well as powercon which are pricier). but on my actives I have decided to use the amphenol TW series hybrid Dsub connectors. these allow a mix of high current 8AWG, or 14AWG pins/sockets in gold plated copper, shielded coaxial high current power lines (can be used for power umbilicals as sense connections) or plain Dsub type pins. for instance you can have a 21 pin connector with 7 x high current (one connector for 3 way) and also have a few smaller pins on there for things like LEDs. i'm using the 5W5 (5 high current 40A), 8W8 (8 high current 40A) and 7W2 (2 x high current 40A and 5 4A connections)in my system. not too cheap if you get all the high current pins as the machined rather than stamped, but a very nice solution. like the speakon and powercon they cannot be plugged in the wrong way and support the use of very large gauge wires, while allowing a single no fuss connection system for a 3 or 4 way speaker. I love DIY, best thing about it is not that its cheaper, that is a common fallacy because if you go all out it certainly isnt especially if you value your time; no the main thing is being able to make things exactly how you like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 I love DIY, best thing about it is not that its cheaper, that is a common fallacy because if you go all out it certainly isnt especially if you value your time; no the main thing is being able to make things exactly how you like. Totally agree 100% . Another connector I like to use is the Cannon plugs for umbilical power cords and the Neutrik powerCON connectors . For strain releaf Cheers 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Late afternoon Does anyone know where I can get screw terminal block's which has its contacts made out of tellurium copper Cheers Mal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Spencer Posted February 4, 2011 Author Share Posted February 4, 2011 I have another project in progress: 4 channels of power amp + MiniDSP This will power some active surrounds and I might even try it for the mains for a while when I get it up and running. I bought the power amps modules from the classifieds in here. 50w class AB for the tweeter (which will be a compression driver) and 250w class D for the mid. Probably a pro 10". I think that will be enough! Total cost is only about $400 including case and connectors. In the past, the cheapest would have been at least $1200 to get the same thing with Behringer DCX and power amps. This makes active surrounds very low cost. I've also avoided lots of cables and extra connectors by putting it all in one box. It would be possible to put together a complete DIY 2 channel active system with a DVD player + one box with everything. This one is written up in the blog: http://redspade-audio.blogspot.com/2011/02/multi-channel-power-amps-crossover.html 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MitchH311 Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 I am working on starting a build based on Bill Fitzmaurice Designs. 2x Transmission Line Array's (or TLAH) for left and right mains, a curved horizontal short line array (SLA) and a Tuba Home Theater Sub or THT. The TLAH and SLA are both highly efficient designs based on obviously multiple drivers working together. From all accounts (I haven't built mine yet) they provide great soundstage, have great even fall off and can be very cheap to build. The multiple drivers provide high efficiency usually around 95dB/1watt/1m. So you really don't need much power to push em well. This also helps limit distortion from over excursion. I am planning on using the recommended goldwood drivers that are $8 for 4" woofers and $2.20 for 1/2" tweets. 9 per side of each + crossover + timber etc so bout $150 ea. You can use much cheaper drivers though, they just need to match the recommended specifications within 10%. Use of a line array also helps smooth freq response a great deal, makes using the cheaper drivers well worth it. SLA center works on the same principle with 6 drivers each. The sub I plan on building is a folded horn, I am building the low profile version which is 72" x 18" x 24.5" though it can be built as 36"x36"x upto 36". I am mounting mine with a 15" driver. Corner loaded and including room gain the THT should be able to do 105db/1watt/1m down to 20Hz if not lower. Total build cost is $660 for parts, $250 for shipping, $200 for ply. Then I just need to buy an ok receiver either 2nd hand or I will buy a Yamaha 667 new. I ain't going for audiophile quality, just bang for buck. Check out the support forums and website for BFM designs here: http://billfitzmaurice.net/ if your interested. All the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwayne Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 Hey all thought i'd upload some photos and get my projects up, currently building exodus 2641 using the extremis 6.8 and wr125 and usher tweets [ATTACH=CONFIG]28668[/ATTACH] crossovers tested and complete [ATTACH=CONFIG]28669[/ATTACH] dry fit of drivers [ATTACH=CONFIG]28670[/ATTACH] completed cabinets with magnets for grills [ATTACH=CONFIG]28671[/ATTACH] and finally the south american red heart eucalpyt veneer being joined and prepared for fininshing [ATTACH=CONFIG]28672[/ATTACH] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwayne Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 also building atm a center channel to complement my HT using two wr125 drivers a hivi round ribbon tweet (supposedly helps with horizontal layout of center) will finished in high gloss black to match telly and tv unit [ATTACH=CONFIG]28673[/ATTACH] which will also be voice matched to not only my mains (above) but also my surrounds built just a little while ago using fr125 finished in tassie oak [ATTACH=CONFIG]28674[/ATTACH] and the right one in room [ATTACH=CONFIG]28675[/ATTACH] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwayne Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 And whilst i'm at it in next few months will be looking to build a coffee table sub using tempest in passive vented enclosure of about 200lt slot ported with driver downfirring, then end of year will have a go at building the standmounts that cheekyboy built using seas drivers.. money and time, need more........much more........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheekyboy Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 And whilst i'm at it in next few months will be looking to build a coffee table sub using tempest in passive vented enclosure of about 200lt slot ported with driver downfirring, then end of year will have a go at building the standmounts that cheekyboy built using seas drivers.. money and time, need more........much more........ I like the idea of hiding the sub under a coffee table dwayne. You may have me mixed up with someone else too re the standmounts using Seas drivers.............unless you mean the Vifa/Scanspeak drivers. Cheers, Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwayne Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 sorry cheekyboy yeah i meant the vifa/scanspeak were they called zd5 or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MitchH311 Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Just saw you were looking at a sub in a coffee table design. I found this a while back http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewtopic.php?p=142470#p142470 is a really nice table with a folded horn in it. and yes I seem a bit crazy bout the BFM stuff, just excited to do my build, I look at a lot of places though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gainphile Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 I have another project in progress: 4 channels of power amp + MiniDSP This will power some active surrounds and I might even try it for the mains for a while when I get it up and running. I bought the power amps modules from the classifieds in here. 50w class AB for the tweeter (which will be a compression driver) and 250w class D for the mid. Probably a pro 10". I think that will be enough! Total cost is only about $400 including case and connectors. In the past, the cheapest would have been at least $1200 to get the same thing with Behringer DCX and power amps. This makes active surrounds very low cost. I've also avoided lots of cables and extra connectors by putting it all in one box. It would be possible to put together a complete DIY 2 channel active system with a DVD player + one box with everything. This one is written up in the blog: http://redspade-audio.blogspot.com/2011/02/multi-channel-power-amps-crossover.html How do you power (sequence) them ? If it's in one box? I'm talking about turn on thumps... Also what do you use for USB connection to the outside world? Mine are two cables dangling. Not pretty and up for some ideas! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwayne Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 thanks mitch however it will have to be vented as it will be quite low in height and keeping it simple, i have constraints on how it looks and its size, as i say its this or a mistress! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Spencer Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 Andi, I'm going to drill a hole in the bottom and dangle the supplied cable through. One way to do it perhaps is with header > USB socket > wireless dongle > PC. That way you can control it from the PC without disconnecting or moving anything. Eventually I'll probably just set up a laptop for measuring and MiniDSP. Power sequencing - I won't have it and don't expect I'll need it as I don't anticipate any thumps up the chain and the amps themselves don't thump. This thing is meant for active surrounds down the track. I haven't heard any of Bill F's stuff, but I'd especially like to hear some of his bass horns at some stage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fetischizm Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Late afternoonDoes anyone know where I can get screw terminal block's which has its contacts made out of tellurium copper http://www.electronicplus.com/images/products/13-1403B.jpg[/iG] Cheers Mal no sorry, I looked too, closest I know of is the Grennan teflon/OFHC terminals at PCX other than that you could make something yourself with copper bus bar and some screws to clamp it together.. nice work Paul, i'm building the miniDSP into my dac instead (digi in/out)and placing the power amps as close to my speakers as possible, initially I planned to build the amps into the speakers ala active studio monitors, but decided against it due to the likely damping issues. I have full wireless control of my dac and its volume via my ipad and terminal. I'm hoping someone will come up with an applet, wont be me. i'm hoping you guys and the forum will be able to supply some support if I need it with the miniDSP, I dont know that I can rely on them, but its a good product it seems; at the right price. @ gainphile: Neutrik make some panel mount USB that look pretty decent, plus amphenol also make the one i'm using which you can get at digikey and most likely mouser too. farnell will charge you a mint for it, so dont bother there 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DQ828 Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 where did you buy the veneer from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Spencer Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 A little more progress on the muti channel amps ... http://redspade-audio.blogspot.com/2011/02/active-surround-box-update.html More images in the blog: http://redspade-audio.blogspot.com/2011/02/active-surround-box-update.html The cheesy holes are for ventilation, with heatsinks on top of them. They were a PITA to drill! Not so keen on drilling sheet metal. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gainphile Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 How do you make square holes? I use jigsaw which is PITA and the resulting product is bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Spencer Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 I haven't used a jigsaw for metal. I like my cheese holes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DQ828 Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 A little more progress on the muti channel amps ...http://redspade-audio.blogspot.com/2011/02/active-surround-box-update.html More images in the blog: http://redspade-audio.blogspot.com/2011/02/active-surround-box-update.html The cheesy holes are for ventilation, with heatsinks on top of them. They were a PITA to drill! Not so keen on drilling sheet metal. What sort of drill bits did you use? I think your cheese holes are great, very arty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Spencer Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 Just the regular metal ones, nothing special. You can't really see in that pic, but I drilled from the outside in, so the burrs go on the inside. Then you drill with a bigger drill, a bit like counter sinking. Gives a neater result. Too bad it's on the bum side! No one will see it ... but I will know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DQ828 Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 (edited) Just the regular metal ones, nothing special. You can't really see in that pic, but I drilled from the outside in, so the burrs go on the inside. Then you drill with a bigger drill, a bit like counter sinking. Gives a neater result. Too bad it's on the bum side! No one will see it ... but I will know! Save yourself a lot of time & grief and buy one of these (or two) a stepped drill bit, it's the only thing I would use for drilling sheet metal. The good one's are not cheap but they are worth it. Don't buy them in Australia, generally I have found the good ones ridiculously expensive in OZ. I recommend you drill a small hole with a normal bit to start with, you don't have to do that though. Sorry about the crappy photo. [ATTACH=CONFIG]28898[/ATTACH] Edited February 12, 2011 by DQ828 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Spencer Posted February 12, 2011 Author Share Posted February 12, 2011 Interesting, I'll keep it in mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DQ828 Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Too many Projects [ATTACH=CONFIG]28899[/ATTACH] P17 90% finished & sounding great, even with the tiny amp [ATTACH=CONFIG]28900[/ATTACH] "The One" well that's there name, a bit pretentious maybe, but I couldn't think of a name. Prototype 1 finished but I am not totally satisfied. Mod's on the way eventually. [ATTACH=CONFIG]28901[/ATTACH] Planned design. [ATTACH=CONFIG]28902[/ATTACH] MiniDSP active crossover & EQ, I have all the bits to put it in a case but it is working & on the back burner. [ATTACH=CONFIG]28903[/ATTACH] Six channel Coldamp, using old Yamaha case, it's is the next in line after the one below. [ATTACH=CONFIG]28904[/ATTACH] Jewellery Box for my sister not strictly Audio, but it is holding the Audio project up. You wouldn't believe how long this sucker is taking to build, inlay curves & dovetailed mitered joints, I'm a sucker for punishment. [ATTACH=CONFIG]28905[/ATTACH] This is way OT, this projects been in the brain for 10 years, recovering a lounge (with leather) I made in my twenties, I'm now in my fifties:(. Bought leather 18 months ago, bought industrial sewing machine 15 months ago, had to mod sewing machine, was way too fast. 95% finished first chair at Christmas. whole thing may never be finished. On the drawing board: Queen size bed for my daughter's 18th Sub for my daughter's 18th Econowave my daughter's 18th Maybe It trying just thinking about it. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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