WI=3 Posted August 17, 2010 Posted August 17, 2010 I am aware that a potential weakness in my hi-fi chain is the multi box I use for the power plugs. So, can anyone who has experimented in this area tell me if I can expect an audible improvement if I go to tapon plugs? I am really only considering the pre and power amps and turntable here. Does one multi-box sound as bad as the other or is there a reasonably priced power conditioner available locally?
Spearmint Posted August 17, 2010 Posted August 17, 2010 I'd suggest something different, but then I'm different anyway. Get your powerpoint/s changed to 4 gang units E.G. HPM XL7774 [attach]4476[/attach] Attached files
nixon76 Posted August 17, 2010 Posted August 17, 2010 I went four gang....with tapon plugs Do a search on the forum for 'tapon' and you'll get discussions relating to this.
Guest Posted August 17, 2010 Posted August 17, 2010 What's the difference between a 4-gang wall socket and a stand alone socket box ? Both split up a single power feed ?
Spearmint Posted August 17, 2010 Posted August 17, 2010 michael w;130649 wrote: What's the difference between a 4-gang wall socket and a stand alone socket box ? Both split up a single power feed ? IMO quite a bit! For one the quality will probably be a tad better For another you have (normally) a 2.5mm cable into the 4 gang gpo, as opposed to either .75 or possibly 1mm flex feeding the powerboard. And yet another, better termination to the four outlets, as opposed all outlets being through a small flex and plugtop. Yet another, much neater IMO Yet another, less chance of causing a fire through overloading or dust issues Anyway, these are just my opinions, and besides I prefer the neatness of the multigang gpo's. But then I'm biased... [attach]4477[/attach] Attached files
got tinnitus Posted August 17, 2010 Posted August 17, 2010 Worst of all, multi-ways usually have SQ sucking filters/overload protection. Tap-on's are best. Amp first then the rest on top....within reason of course.
nixon76 Posted August 17, 2010 Posted August 17, 2010 got tinnitus;130651 wrote: Tap-on's are best. Amp first then the rest on top....within reason of course. That's a Naim recommendation isn't it? (or at least Naim dealer)
Antipodes1553552706 Posted August 17, 2010 Posted August 17, 2010 michael w;130649 wrote: What's the difference between a 4-gang wall socket and a stand alone socket box ? Both split up a single power feed ? Huge, in my experience. I once had to run my system off another power point while my electrician was replacing my dedicated mains, so had to use a distribution box to reach my system from another power point. The sound was so grainy, hard compressed and colourless that I decided very quickly to not bother playing music till my electrician finished the job.
got tinnitus Posted August 17, 2010 Posted August 17, 2010 Nix. Yep, Naim (NZ) do suggest stacking. In the UK, they don't have tap-on's so what they do is terminate up to 4 IEC's together at the wall socket using one plug.
Robocop Posted August 17, 2010 Posted August 17, 2010 Go to JA Russells or Ideal electrical and buy the heavy duty multi box with metal case(about $100). (I use 6 outlets) Open up and replace standard wire with 2.5mm(min) or similiar(wire is directional so as you read it(writing on cable) wired towards the source). Bypass the switch and any fuse device. You don't need either as your wall outlet has a switch and circuit is fused at switchboard(should be at least 15amp). I've done this but rewired using Furatech 4mm heavy duty, care off Parmenter Hi-Fi. Tapons are ok but critical components should not be piggy backed only low current drawing devices. Preamps, power amps, subwoofers especially. I run two of these multi's to split the load. These multi's are far superior to the plastic cheap as chips available everywhere nowadays. I'm renting so don't have the luxury of dedicated power supply which is the BEST.
nixon76 Posted August 17, 2010 Posted August 17, 2010 Robocop;130663 wrote: Open up and replace standard wire with 2.5mm(min) or similiar(wire is directional so as you read it(writing on cable) wired towards the source). Bypass the switch and any fuse device. You don't need either as your wall outlet has a switch and circuit is fused at switchboard(should be at least 15amp). But only do this if you're a registered sparky though eh?
King Size1553552683 Posted August 17, 2010 Posted August 17, 2010 Robocop;130663 wrote: Open up and replace standard wire with 2.5mm(min) or similiar(wire is directional so as you read it(writing on cable) wired towards the source). Bypass the switch and any fuse device. You don't need either as your wall outlet has a switch and circuit is fused at switchboard(should be at least 15amp). Are unswitched wall outlets legal/available here? Robocop;130663 wrote: Tapons are ok but critical components should not be piggy backed only low current drawing devices. Preamps, power amps, subwoofers especially. I run two of these multi's to split the load. Not sure I understand you here? Are you saying critical OR high current devices shouldn't be piggy backed? Or are they the same thing? FWIW - I think that is where the tapon stacking order of power amp / power supply / source comes from.
nixon76 Posted August 17, 2010 Posted August 17, 2010 King Size;130666 wrote: Are unswitched wall outlets legal/available here? Yes, and they are very very annoying. e.g. http://www.pdl.co.nz/product-details.aspx?rcat=products&catid=1003&id=1030 When you unplug something it turns off - but when something is plugged in, it's on all the time.
Robocop Posted August 17, 2010 Posted August 17, 2010 Yes unswitched HPM wall outlets are available from outlets mentioned. They are the best I had them in my last dedicated mains supply to Hi-Fi. As long as your devices are switched so you can turn them off. To be honest avoid piggy backing any device is the rule of the day. The closer the device is connected to the source the better the sound. I wouldn't stack anything more than once. It is bad practise to stack more than this especially with high current devices which is why multi boxes are much better(heavy duty ones that is). I mean't high current devices. You don't need an electrician to rewire a multi plug device, its no different to changing a plug. But you do need to know your colours and get the connections correctly aligned.
nixon76 Posted August 17, 2010 Posted August 17, 2010 Robocop;130668 wrote: You don't need an electrician to rewire a multi plug device, its no different to changing a plug. You probably want to run that by your insurance company - just in case.
Owen Y Posted August 17, 2010 Posted August 17, 2010 PDL have Unswitched Socket Outlets (commonly used for wall clocks etc), together with matching 3 pin plugs. The latter come with locking rings which screw onto the above wall outlet. Can't remember the cat. no. right now (#905?) but I have used them for yrs. Legal? Probably not advisable for general use but, as said, they have locking rings for safety. Edit: here is the PDL 905 plug: http://www.pdl.co.nz/product-details.aspx?rcat=products&catid=849&id=1049 There is a matching screw ring unswitched outlet. There are also plain unswitched shuttered outlets: http://www.pdl.co.nz/product-details.aspx?rcat=products&catid=674&id=932
Owen Y Posted August 17, 2010 Posted August 17, 2010 PS. I should add that these #905 plugs also feature single pc brass internal design, ie. only one mechanical connection (to the wire conductor). Tapon would be my next choice, if I was short of outlets.
Robocop Posted August 17, 2010 Posted August 17, 2010 Wouldn't bother with insurance, if you don't feel confident of your ability to do the job correctly get an electrician or take it to an electrical service company. More fires come from over stacking plugs, multi boxes with heater atached in the winter.
WI=3 Posted August 18, 2010 Author Posted August 18, 2010 Thanks for all the advice, everyone. I think I will go and get some tapons and see what happens initially - they must be better than those cheap Mitre 10 multi boxes I currently use.
King Size1553552683 Posted August 18, 2010 Posted August 18, 2010 i'm sure it will be as the pdl tapon is good enough for the $1k naim powerline
kaka Posted August 18, 2010 Posted August 18, 2010 michael w;130649 wrote: What's the difference between a 4-gang wall socket and a stand alone socket box ? Both split up a single power feed ? Antipodes;130661 wrote: Huge, in my experience. I once had to run my system off another power point while my electrician was replacing my dedicated mains, so had to use a distribution box to reach my system from another power point. The sound was so grainy, hard compressed and colourless that I decided very quickly to not bother playing music till my electrician finished the job. What did you install on the end of the circuit?
Hutch1553552752 Posted August 18, 2010 Posted August 18, 2010 I had installed a 6 mm TPS mains to a double non switched socket and then run 1/2 dozen tapons. In the context of my Naim system this made a considerable improvement to all aspects of my system replay. Regards Hutch
Antipodes1553552706 Posted August 18, 2010 Posted August 18, 2010 kaka;130718 wrote: What did you install on the end of the circuit? In that installaton I used cryo'd Hubbell US Outlets, wall-mounted, at the end of three dedicated mains circuits. If you are going to make all those holes in the wall you might as well run three. One little wrinkle, somewhat OT, was that one brand of TPC sounded better with the printing running back to the switchboard and another sounded better with the printing going the other way. You really should check directionality if you are going to do dedicated mains. The best way to test this is just run it through your corridors, and then turn it around. A heck of a lot easier than re-threading it through the walls, or taking a 50/50 chance you got it round the right way. At the risk of being accused of promoting stuff, I am currently revising our choice of plugs etc for our power cords. We sell them in the US and to Europe but sparingly in NZ while I sort out the best sounding and totally legal solution for Aus/NZ, and getting good power strips made for audio use in NZ, again all legal for the NZ market, which can have surge and/or conditioning able to be added as options. The Aus/NZ regulations are very strict and selling something that has not been approved is an offence, so you have to take it seriously. But as stated above, you can assemble something yourself and you are fine as far as the law goes. Or go on eBay and buy something from say Bada which is damn good for the price. The legal situation is odd in NZ. There is nothing much to stop you bringing in a foreign plug and using it, but you just can't offer it for sale here unless it has been approved (and it costs a lot of money to get things approved). Finding a cord and plugs that will sound good with a few small tweaks is relatively simple compared with finding a collection of bits that are approved for use in NZ (there are many wrinkles to that by the way) that will sound good.
nixon76 Posted August 18, 2010 Posted August 18, 2010 Antipodes;130741 wrote: I am currently revising our choice of plugs etc for our power cords. We sell them in the US and to Europe but sparingly in NZ while I sort out the best sounding and totally legal solution for Aus/NZ At your level there is only the Furutech isn't there? Or are you trying some of the industrial PDL/HPM/Clipsal ones as well?
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