SL1200 Posted March 16, 2016 Posted March 16, 2016 Thanks. I have emailed him. Are you the OP on the link you posted above? Also, what is the thrustpad? Sorry about all the questions. This is new to me. Yes I am the OP on the thread. The Thrustpad: The bearing consists of three parts - (1) the Housing, (2) the Shaft [also called the spindle], (3) the Thrustpad. If you think motor car piston engine then the Housing is the cylinder and the Shaft is the piston. At the bottom point the shaft has to rest (or spin while playing) on something. That is a small black object called the Thrustpad. It is held in place by two screws. If you take out your bearing * then you can inspect the base of the shaft and the thrustpad. This is where 'the rubber meets the road'. Having said that, in my opinion (and there are different opinions from others whom I respect) is that the upgrade path on a S1200 / SL1210 should begin with The Feet and other more obvious anti vibration measures. * This is one of those things that are "really easy". Analogy is like learning to ride a bike or drive a car. It is difficult to do but after you have done it, it is easy. The plus side about mucking in and getting your hands dirty is that any mistake you make (and there aren't even many of those) are totally reversible. 1
amdan Posted March 16, 2016 Posted March 16, 2016 Thanks. That's an excellent explanation. On the topic of feet - I have the TT on a wall shelf. Will new feet help? What feet do you suggest? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
amdan Posted March 16, 2016 Posted March 16, 2016 BTW Ianmac hasn't responded to my email. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Linkin Posted March 17, 2016 Posted March 17, 2016 I now have an SL1200MKII with my Stanton 681 and Jico Shibata stylus on it. Amp is a NAD Model 140. Sounds amazing... I use it for digital storage of my LP's 1
Bunyip Posted March 17, 2016 Posted March 17, 2016 I've had my 1210 Mk2 for about 15 years. Used primarily as a DJ deck and my goto table for gatherings at my house of the Gentlemen's Record Club, where the combination of tunes and beer makes me too nervous to use my high end deck for fear of sloshed fingers buggering up my needle (it's happened once already). As far as the 'removing the platter' question - it's been a while since I removed mine, however I recall having to insert fingers, lifting gently, and then rotating the platter until it finds a point where it pops out. If that makes sense. I love my deck - it's a tank. In fact I love it so much, I'm going to share some photos. Here it is at home And doing duty at Gentlemen's Record Club One of my kid's friends watching the wheel of steel going round and round and round and round... And at an irregular DJ gig I do called Vino di Vinyl, at a local wine bar. Sometimes I take it when we go away for holidays. Here it is on an impromptu TT stand, feeding into a Nighthawk phono amp, and Cambridge Audio portable speaker system (the case for the system, which also doubles as a subwoofer, is to the left). And finally, the wanky art shot 4
amdan Posted March 17, 2016 Posted March 17, 2016 Great photos!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1
SL1200 Posted March 17, 2016 Posted March 17, 2016 Thanks. That's an excellent explanation. On the topic of feet - I have the TT on a wall shelf. Will new feet help? What feet do you suggest? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk With the TT on a stable wall shelf upgrading the feet would be less important. I think I would still do it. The 'go-to' feet are the Isonoe Feet - from memory I think I bought mine from Decibel Hi-Fi in Brisbane. However I have heard a report from a member of Hi-Fi Wigwam forum (CageyH) that the new BO!NG feet from The Funk Firm are even better. I guess if I was buying new I would go with the cheaper of the two.
SL1200 Posted March 17, 2016 Posted March 17, 2016 And finally, the wanky art shot Great pics and story! How did you take that last photo?
hkc Posted March 18, 2016 Posted March 18, 2016 When I put my fingers into the holes and lift, the whole tt lifts. The platter won't come off. I did have a look for a voltage switch using the hole but did so briefly. I will have a good look. Thanks for the tip. When you pull the platter you have to give it a quick, sharp tug. This will separate it from the plinth. Just make sure when you tug it you do it evenly
Bunyip Posted March 18, 2016 Posted March 18, 2016 (edited) Great pics and story! How did you take that last photo?I had a clip-on LED gooseneck lamp positioned directly over the centre of the TT and then shot down directly over that. Does that make sense?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited March 18, 2016 by Bunyip
Bunyip Posted March 18, 2016 Posted March 18, 2016 Great pics! Ooohhh, I get all gooey when I see shots of these decks, they're such a good looking, beautifully proportioned unit. Some tasty coloured vinyl there as well. I'm replacing the Ortofon Concorde Nightclub DJ cart with a 2M Red this weekend. Must take some new pics once it's done. 1
norman Posted March 20, 2016 Posted March 20, 2016 (edited) I just played a vinyl copy I have owned for many more than 30 years of Springsteen's "Born to Run" (yes, I know it's unfashionable) on my SL-1210 with my Ortofon MC-3 Turbo, and it BLOWS AWAY the CD version that I had playing at the same time on my venerable NAD 5320 CD deck. I did this to try my system out and ensure I wasn't just kidding myself about the magic in the vinyl's grooves, as I normally listen to the music rather than the hardware.I realise the old NAD probably isn't the bee's knees of CD reproduction, but it's pretty musical nonetheless. But, the sheer power of the vinyl is amazing, so realistic that it is a bit hard to believe after not playing vinyl for so many years, especially on such a crappy turntable as my now-retired Pro-Ject. My amplification is a NAD 1155 pre-amp with its inbuilt phono stage (with switchable capacitance and MC/MM settings) that feeds a NAD C272 poweramp for the speakers, and a Korean poweramp I picked up from Gumtree for $70 called an Inkel MA-410 (amazingly powerful) for the subwoofer (itself fed via a custom built variable crossover to arbitrate what signal goes to which amp). My speakers are 36 year old Celef PE I/IIs (cost me $900 from Alberts Hi-Fi in Perth in 1980, still love them after several re-cones and blown Audax tweeters).The sound extracted by the Technics / Ortofon combo is more solid, more believable, with a bottom-end depth from the drums and bass that just isn't there on CD, at least from my NAD CD. His voice sounds different too, with more "presence", hard to describe. My wife agrees, she now dislikes the "brittle" sound of CDs (her description). Edit - I have fitted a white LED into the popup target lamp. There is little solid information on the web regarding resistor values, so in case anyone is looking to do the same modification, for a 3 volt LED I confirm that you need a single 680 ohm resistor in series with the LED, doesn't matter whether it's on the anode or cathode side of the LED feed wires. The switch LED works properly with a single 1 megohm resistor across the terminals replacing the original that had a value of just 1.5k kilohms. This means the light switches off properly. Don't just remove the switch resistor, as you run the chance of frying the electronics.... Edited March 28, 2016 by npeters 1
Bunyip Posted March 20, 2016 Posted March 20, 2016 And here's something pretty unique and incredibly rare, the Technics SL-700, designed to play 45s. Only two made in the world, and owned by legendary DJ Biz Markie. 4 1
SL1200 Posted March 26, 2016 Posted March 26, 2016 And here's something pretty unique and incredibly rare, the Technics SL-700, designed to play 45s. Only two made in the world, and owned by legendary DJ Biz Markie. image.jpeg Oh my giddy aunt! I never knew there was such a beastie. I can't help myself - I'm salivating - that is as cute as an incredibly cute thing. On another topic - there is a great article in the April 2016 Stereophile by Herbert Reichert on the SL1200. He fits an SME M2-9 tonearm - good choice! 1
eltech Posted April 4, 2016 Posted April 4, 2016 https://translate.google.com.au/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://discjam.jp/%3Fmode%3Dgrp%26gid%3D1365916&prev=search 1
HypnoToad Posted April 18, 2016 Posted April 18, 2016 $4k is about the right price given inflation since the original was introduced in 1972. And remember that did not have an arm as standard nor a cartridge. I paid $375.00 usd for a new one in 2010 off Amazon while in the U.S. 1
billyboyrm Posted April 18, 2016 Posted April 18, 2016 I paid $375.00 usd for a new one in 2010 off Amazon while in the U.S. Yes, but was it the same as the original. Wherein you supplied an arm to your desired specifications? You are lucky, as long as you enjoy the unit.
HypnoToad Posted April 19, 2016 Posted April 19, 2016 Yes, but was it the same as the original. Wherein you supplied an arm to your desired specifications? You are lucky, as long as you enjoy the unit. It was a stock SL1200 Mk2, new in the box.
maxspl Posted June 19, 2016 Posted June 19, 2016 Japan's allocation of 300 units of the SL1200 GAE went on sale in April. They sold out in less than 30 minutes. Guess they weren't too expensive after all.
wikeeboy Posted June 19, 2016 Posted June 19, 2016 Japan's allocation of 300 units of the SL1200 GAE went on sale in April. They sold out in less than 30 minutes. Guess they weren't too expensive after all. Leaves us no chance of getting one here then?
maxspl Posted June 19, 2016 Posted June 19, 2016 Still 900 more of the limited edition magnesium arm versions to go on sale internationally , but yeah....slim chance of getting one here I think. If anyone knows of a store in Australia that thinks they may be able to secure any let me know. 1
Guest soundandpictures Posted June 19, 2016 Posted June 19, 2016 for that amount of coin you could get a really good sp10 mk2
Hergest Posted June 19, 2016 Posted June 19, 2016 for that amount of coin you could get a really good sp10 mk2 But there's every chance that the new 1200 could well be better than the SP10 and you haven't got to contend with ancient electronics.
Guest soundandpictures Posted June 21, 2016 Posted June 21, 2016 (edited) a really good sp10 would have all the dodgy aspects fixed both motors have similar specs but the new sl-1200 has a heavier platter 3.6kg v 2.9kg (sp10 mk2). sp10 counters with great starting torque 6kg/cm v 3.3kg/cm on the new sl-1200 Edited June 21, 2016 by soundandpictures
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