amdan Posted January 27, 2016 Posted January 27, 2016 I bought a Technics SL1000MK2 not long after buying the SL1210M5G . Then went about modifying the SL1210M5G to see if I could get it up the the SL1000MK2 level. I put a mike new bearing , kab fluid damper ,sound hifi power supply and isonoe feet on it. All offered an improvement , with the exception of the outboard power supply which i thought added nothing. It was a great table by that point... but I felt it still wasn't as good as the SL1000MK2 , so I sold it. Still have a stock SL1210mk2 and SL1200mk2 in the collection though.....bought new in 2007 and 2008 , glad I grabbed them when I did. Is the MK2 better than the MK5G? I thought it was the other way around given the OFC tonearm wire and improved vibration control in the MK5G.
maxspl Posted January 27, 2016 Posted January 27, 2016 Is the MK2 better than the MK5G? I thought it was the other way around given the OFC tonearm wire and improved vibration control in the MK5G. No ...the M5G is a bit better .
beeclam Posted February 2, 2016 Posted February 2, 2016 I sent an email to Panasonic Australia asking when they were planning on re-introducing Technics equipment. They responding saying that they don't have a release date.
norman Posted February 29, 2016 Posted February 29, 2016 (edited) Hi all.I have a Technics SL-1210 unit I rescued from a guy that wanted to be a DJ and never made it. He imported it from the UK, and it came complete with a Dick Smith UK to Oz power plug adapter - he didn't put on an Australian power plug as he never used it in anger. When I got it home, it spun up well, but the arm height adjustment was seized and it was horribly filthy. A full strip-down revealed it had suffered a drink spill at some stage in its life. I cleaned it up beautifully, and cosmetically its now about 98% of original. Only a couple of minor rub marks mar the rubber base. Edit Here's the inside of the rubber base showing the spill - I suspect Bailey's Irish Cream, very nasty - pre-restoration: Ronson lighter fluid makes a good solvent for old solidified Technics arm adjustment grease. I didn't touch the arm gimble bearings as these were already perfect. I replaced the arm internal wires with Litz wire cable, and also replaced the fixed RCA cable while it was open with a custom OFC and earth cable with some nice RCA plugs. The original plastic cable strain fixing can be modified to accommodate thicker RCA cables and still serve its purpose properly. I have tossed the felt DJ mat it came with, and a rubber mat now sits on the aluminium platter. It does a fine job of damping out any possibility of ringing from the platter. I have pulled apart the bearing, cleaned and re-lubed it. Edit Here's the unit post restoration: It sounds really, really great - I swap between a Denon DL-160 and an Ortofon MC-30 Turbo. There is zero discernible rumble, wow or flutter. It sits on a heavy block of polished granite for added isolation. The sound background is very very quiet, and I rate this deck highly. I was not a believer in DD turntables for years because of the common prejudice against them, but this has truly converted me. The arm is much better than a lot of nonsense written about them would have you believe. At least I can now use a deep body cartridge with it, which I couldn't with my Pro-Ject 1.2 table as the arm couldn't be raised high enough for the body to clear the vinyl surface. I am considering moving the power supply off-board (a DIY job) at some stage but as its already so quiet I doubt it will make a difference. The original lid was broken, so I'm looking for a lid. If anyone has one to sell please let me know. Ditto for Technics headshells. I am very, very happy with my unit given my modest investment. It sounds better than my Pro-Ject 1.2 deck that couldn't take the Ortofon MC-3 as that arm can't be raised high enough, and even when low down it fouls the lid as delivered. Oh, and the torque is so good its great for cleaning records with a Discwasher, which the Pro-Ject couldn't even handle. I wish I had moved across to this DD turntable years ago. Cheers, Norm, Canberra. 2019 Update. I never managed to find a genuine SL-1200 dome lid at the right price. I eventually found a new replacement lid from "Reloop" brand lookalike for $80 from a Canberra guy called " The Rock Doctor" that fits perfectly. It came with its own hinges that screw into the bottom row of the original tapped hinge holes so no need for modifications, and stays up nicely, and easily lifts off. Looks great, works great too. Recommended. Edited September 24, 2019 by norman
ChupaChups Posted March 1, 2016 Posted March 1, 2016 How much you asked? Technics explains why its new SL-1200 turntable costs $4,000
Chigurh Posted March 1, 2016 Posted March 1, 2016 There are always a lot of SL1200's on Ebay. They're always photographed with a slip-mat so I presume that the thick rubber mat is seldom included. Was the rubber mat an optional extra when these TT's were new or were they included in the package?
pete_mac Posted March 1, 2016 Posted March 1, 2016 There are always a lot of SL1200's on Ebay. They're always photographed with a slip-mat so I presume that the thick rubber mat is seldom included. Was the rubber mat an optional extra when these TT's were new or were they included in the package? I bought a pair of SL1200's new in 2001 and they most certainly came with a pair of rubber mats. I wish I knew what I did with them - they were never taken out of their packaging. 1
Darryl Posted March 1, 2016 Posted March 1, 2016 @@amdan I have an M5G and various bits and pieces too. Sing out if you need a hand with anything.
Guest Muon Posted March 1, 2016 Posted March 1, 2016 Should be very interesting when a few of these end up in some hands here. Looking forward to folks impressions.
Guest rmpfyf Posted March 1, 2016 Posted March 1, 2016 Hey all, just a quick note to offer thanks for this thread. Fired up my SL1200Mk2 last night (Zupreme headshell, Ortofon 2M blue) and it's rather excellent. The NAD PP4i pre is decently underwhelming on its own though into a PC (mine's a Linux box) and looped back through a nice tube DAC... it's actually freakin' awesome. And not at all like computer audio. I'm enjoying the difference so much that I've bought some music that I already own on CD. Bloody hell these things are strong low down! Bass is awesome. Thanks all for their help. This thread has been great.
amdan Posted March 1, 2016 Posted March 1, 2016 (edited) @@amdan I have an M5G and various bits and pieces too. Sing out if you need a hand with anything.Thanks Daryl. That's good of you. Are you in Adelaide? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited March 1, 2016 by amdan
Darryl Posted March 1, 2016 Posted March 1, 2016 Thanks Daryl. That's good of you. Are you in Adelaide? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Yep.
SL1200 Posted March 2, 2016 Posted March 2, 2016 Hi Amdan and welcome to 1200 club. Did you buy your 1200 5g new or second hand? Too much to talk about in one go but here are a couple of pointers: (1) Arm: I would leave the arm for the moment. There are other more worthwhile upgrades that come first. The standard arm comes with good bearings, fabulous height adjustment, and the headshell, though poor, is easily upgraded. Not only that but from the Mk 5g onwards the wiring of the arm is improved. The only weakness of the stock arm is the tube. You can have a go at damping that with sorbothane - didn't work for me but YMMV. Later when you do upgrade, the Jelco 750D and SME M2-9 are the "go-to" arms. (2) Removing the platter: This is essential as you will want to service the bearing. I'm afraid I cannot recommend anything than what has been said before. My platter often gets stuck as it is heavier than normal (as I have stripped the rubber underlay and replaced that with epoxy). I just have to use a LOT of strength. There are some great You-Tube clips - especially those by viperfrank - on opening up the techie. Follow these and inspect the bearing and thrustpad (if you bought second-hand). If OK add a single drop of good quality engine oil to the thrustpad and also to the shaft & sleeve. Best of luck and keep us posted - pics are allowed!! 1
amdan Posted March 2, 2016 Posted March 2, 2016 I bought a used one. Thanks for the advice. I haven't been able to get the platter off. I will look up the YouTube videos you mentioned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
amdan Posted March 2, 2016 Posted March 2, 2016 Thanks Daryl. That's good of you. Are you in Adelaide? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Hi Daryl. Have you upgraded your TT? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
SL1200 Posted March 2, 2016 Posted March 2, 2016 I bought a used one. Thanks for the advice. I haven't been able to get the platter off. I will look up the YouTube videos you mentioned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Right, I asked because it is a little more important to check out the bearing if the TT is not new. Actually it should be done anyway because even a perfect bearing should be lubed occasionally. The manual says 2 or 3 drops every 2000 hours usage. This is applied to the top of the bearing at the point where the shaft sits in the sleeve. However it is better to take out the bearing for servicing. Actually while on the subject of bearings I recommend the Ianmac bearing. I have an almost new stock bearing, the Ianmac bearing and the Mike New bearing. The Ianmac is comfortably the best. It has a lower noise floor. What Ian has done is quite ingenious - he has replace the thrustpad with a very hard Teflon known as Peek. The spindown times are longer and it does not cost the earth. The Mike New bearing looks fabulous with its brass housing but is actually no better than a new and lubed stock bearing. Many people have reported improvements with the MN bearing but that is due to their existing bearings being worn (you are buying second hand) or not lubed. 1
Guest soundandpictures Posted March 2, 2016 Posted March 2, 2016 (edited) It was a SP15 mounted an acrylic plinth, with three? arms, is that the one? If so one of our members did those mods and still owns it, Kcc123. He has posted pics of it here and on other forums. They nicked that pic off one of those forums to make that hoax page. 35l9nq9.jpg They made his table famous i think soundfan means this... Edited March 2, 2016 by soundandpictures
Guest Muon Posted March 2, 2016 Posted March 2, 2016 (edited) I hadn't seen that one Edit: doesn't look anything like a SP10 to me.....meh. Edited March 3, 2016 by ortofun
Darryl Posted March 2, 2016 Posted March 2, 2016 Hi Daryl. Have you upgraded your TT? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk No upgrades or mods. It's an Australian delivered one so no step down required. I don't use it much at present actually.
Guest soundandpictures Posted March 3, 2016 Posted March 3, 2016 it was a mockup technics used (in europe ?) to announce the return to turntables. a production version would have more aesthetic appeal than the sl1200 clone.
amdan Posted March 14, 2016 Posted March 14, 2016 Right, I asked because it is a little more important to check out the bearing if the TT is not new. Actually it should be done anyway because even a perfect bearing should be lubed occasionally. The manual says 2 or 3 drops every 2000 hours usage. This is applied to the top of the bearing at the point where the shaft sits in the sleeve. However it is better to take out the bearing for servicing. Actually while on the subject of bearings I recommend the Ianmac bearing. I have an almost new stock bearing, the Ianmac bearing and the Mike New bearing. The Ianmac is comfortably the best. It has a lower noise floor. What Ian has done is quite ingenious - he has replace the thrustpad with a very hard Teflon known as Peek. The spindown times are longer and it does not cost the earth. The Mike New bearing looks fabulous with its brass housing but is actually no better than a new and lubed stock bearing. Many people have reported improvements with the MN bearing but that is due to their existing bearings being worn (you are buying second hand) or not lubed. Hi. How do I go about getting an Ianmac bearing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
amdan Posted March 14, 2016 Posted March 14, 2016 Also in terms of sound quality how was it better than the MN bearing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
SL1200 Posted March 15, 2016 Posted March 15, 2016 Hi. How do I go about getting an Ianmac bearing? You will need to contact Ian. I am afraid I lost his email address (bloody Outlook) but you can PM him on the AOS forum. Here is a thread on the Ianmac bearing : http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?37903-IanMac-Bearing Ian posts at #36. You have to provide him with a new SL1200 bearing and he will then do his magic. New bearings can be found for about $40.00 and Ian only charges materials. In terms of sound quality they are all similar but the Ianmac is definitely the quietest.
amdan Posted March 15, 2016 Posted March 15, 2016 You will need to contact Ian. I am afraid I lost his email address (bloody Outlook) but you can PM him on the AOS forum. Here is a thread on the Ianmac bearing : http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?37903-IanMac-Bearing Ian posts at #36. You have to provide him with a new SL1200 bearing and he will then do his magic. New bearings can be found for about $40.00 and Ian only charges materials. In terms of sound quality they are all similar but the Ianmac is definitely the quietest. Thanks. I have emailed him. Are you the OP on the link you posted above? Also, what is the thrustpad? Sorry about all the questions. This is new to me.
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